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owen

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Posts posted by owen

  1. I recently built an Ultimaker and was able to get prints of decent quality out of PLA. However, the bowden tube backed out of the extruder during a print. Since then, I cannot make the tube stay in the clamp. I've tried all the suggestions I could find including cutting off the end of the tube to get a clean surface and nothing seems to work. As soon as I start to extrude, the tube pushes itself out rather than feeding the filament. I have seen the bowden clamp on thingverse which I hope would solve my problem, but unfortunately I cannot print at all so I cannot make it. Is there a temporary solution which would allow me to print the bowden clamp?

    Thanks

    Try to clamp something around the Bowden Tube above the wood block and then hold this clamped item down with cable ties while the Bowden tube is pushed into it's place.

    Good luck.

  2. Set the Target temp to 200 and watch the current temperature rise, if it gets to 210 turn your machine off and check.

    If the current temp doesn't move but you can feel the heater block warming up then turn your machine off and check.

    When it gets to 200 set the motor speed to 500 and click on forward, the extruder motor should turn.

  3. got a stl file for thingiverse > generated code (skeinforge 35, pla-ultimaker-failsafe) for some reason i cannot use Skeinforge 40 as the extruder motor wont start up.

    And voila, i have a box inside print (which is has much smooter surface than the print i'd like to have)

    Is there a way to reset machine or does it have some files written in system preferences which i can delete?

    Not sure as I don't use skeinforge.

    I think you should go down the path of getting Cura.

    Better easier slicing.

    Easier, better setting up of firmware.

    It will probably fix your problems and also make for better printing besides.

    Let us know how you go.

  4. Latest Marlin I think. Uploaded through your builder. Software endstops enabled and Endstops only for homing. How does this affect it?

    It means you can move trough the endstop with G1 commands. If you don't have "Endstops only for homing" enabled, then you cannot move beyond the endstop. This is the default in the Cura firmware, to protect your machine.

    This means that with the default Cura firmware, you cannot adjust the Z in the start code if your bed is too low, only when it is too high.

    I see, so unless your height is adjusted too close via the stops or you have the corner cut off you can't do it.

    In my case I have the corner of the platform cut off and my setting is G92 Z-0.48

    I adjust this up or down by +/-0.04 or +/-0.08 to give a tighter or looser start

    Even without a cut off corner you could probably adjust your initial homing to about -0.2 with the screw or whatever and do it through GCode from there.

    I'm a definite fan of this method, I don't need to adjust it often anyway. I have an optical endstop for Z too now so maybe that is giving a more consistent homing as well.

  5. The Z0.0 referrers to the "G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0"

    It changes the actual "zero point" compared to the end stop, right now it says "0" is exactly the endstop. With Z1.0 you say that the endstop is 1.0mm above the bed. However, I'm not sure if that will work correctly...

    It works great. I've been only adjusting my bed height there for a while now. I don't use a screw adjustment anymore. It's easier and more accurate/consistent. Plus you get to see the actual variations in height that happen.

    But do you use a firmware that always stops on endstops or only when homing?

    Latest Marlin I think. Uploaded through your builder. Software endstops enabled and Endstops only for homing. How does this affect it?

  6. The Z0.0 referrers to the "G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0"

    It changes the actual "zero point" compared to the end stop, right now it says "0" is exactly the endstop. With Z1.0 you say that the endstop is 1.0mm above the bed. However, I'm not sure if that will work correctly...

    It works great. I've been only adjusting my bed height there for a while now. I don't use a screw adjustment anymore. It's easier and more accurate/consistent. Plus you get to see the actual variations in height that happen.

  7. What's the green knob on the top for Daid?

    Looks like a manual crank for the Z axis. That used to be a common trick with the old repraps (before the switch to two Z axis steppers) When the outline of the part is being printed you manually crank on the z if it's not adhering properly. At least that's what I've seen some of the guys at the hackerspace doing :)

    -Matt

    Thanks armstrom :)

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