owen
-
Posts
675 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by owen
-
-
As long as those spokes aren't in mid air you should go alright. You might get slight warping but only on the bottom. It will be fine at the hole and top so overall it should be a good wheel. Good luck. Feel free to show us the result.
-
Loosen off all the bushings on the x and y shafts and you should be able to straighten in up. Let us know how you go.
-
This is something I've been thinking about lately. You could slice the model twice, once with 30% infill, and once with 100% infill. Then cut and paste the g-code at whatever layer you want the new infill to start.
I hope in the future there will be a Skeinforge plugin for something like this.
I don't think you could do this because of the 'E' value in GCode. It is always increasing unlike x, y and z which always stay below 210.
Admittedly this isn't my area of expertise, but couldn't you manually enter a G92 and set the E value to wherever the new one picks up at?
Good point. I did a similar thing yesterday so I should have thought of that.
-
This is something I've been thinking about lately. You could slice the model twice, once with 30% infill, and once with 100% infill. Then cut and paste the g-code at whatever layer you want the new infill to start.
I hope in the future there will be a Skeinforge plugin for something like this.
I don't think you could do this because of the 'E' value in GCode. It is always increasing unlike x, y and z which always stay below 210.
-
You can't do that natively in Netfabb but could possibly if you designed your own style. This would be a big job if it was possible I think. Not sure if the other programs could do it or not. Your best bet would be to redesign the wheel with holes in it or made with spokes where you would like the lower fill.
-
@Tom: I'll first start fixing the problem with the geohagen kit. Hope this will solve the extrusion issue.
@owen: the reason for me not to use an experimental firmware, is that I don't slice the files with RepG. I do all the prepwork in NetFabb and then leave the printing to RepG. Or will the Marlin firmware also improve the printing as well? It's worth giving it a shot ;-)
I've only ever used Netfabb and always export to RepG unless the file is too big. Marlin is heaps good with Netfabb generated code. Not that it probably makes much difference what program generates the code.
-
That groove mount looks pretty good. One other thing I noticed Baphi is that you're using 5D firmware. I think if you move on to Marlin you'll get less temperature variation. It's far better firmware in either case, it prints much smoother. It's a bit involved getting it on there but it's worth it. I used Daid's tool, Build Me Marlin last time to set up the settings before uploading it to the UM and it is great.
-
Can high temperatures cause the printhead to clog then?
Sometimes when the plastic starts melting too high up and so it's too soft to push against. I can't think of what else could be causing your problem other than what you've already tried so it's worth a shot.
-
In RepG. Lower your temp by 5 degrees at a time and see if you can extrude plastic by turning the wooden wheel by hand. See how low you can go but you want to be able to push the plastic through fairly easy and for it to be hot enough to be shiny still. I print at 210 C but some go as low as 185 or something. If and when you think you can extrude at a lower temp, try a small print first.
Good luck.
-
If the head doesn't move during print, and you upgraded to Marlin, it's most likely a problem caused by the "software endstops". I'm not sure if NetFabb uses 100,100 or 0,0 as center of the machine, but if it uses 0,0 then this option needs to be disabled.
Netfabb uses 100,100
-
Hi
Here's how I do it if everything is already assembled, others may differ.
1 Turn the UM heater on to just enough heat to make any plastic in the threads soft.
2 Loosen off the 4 main bolts so you can unscrew the peek block.
3 Tighten 2 - 6mm nuts onto the brass tube on the opposite end of the nozzle
4 Turn the top nut clockwise while holding the heater block so the brass tube turns down through the heater block a few turns.
3 Screw the nozzle onto the brass tube firm using PTFE tape while using the top nut to hold the brass tube still.
4 Turn the nozzle while holding the heater block so the that the brass tube screws back up through the aluminum block all the way till the top flat part of the nozzle tightens up against the bottom of the aluminum block.
5 Remove the top nut and then the bottom nut while holding the block.
6 Tighten down the Peek piece onto the brass tube through the aluminum plate till it meets up against the top of the aluminum block. Make sure you are holding the nozzle with a spanner etc. so that the brass tube does not wind back through the aluminum block and create a gap between the aluminum block and nozzle.
7 Tighten up the the four screws from the top getting the bowden tube end right (See instruction in Wiki) while preferably holding the heater block in the orientation you want it to end up, usually running long wise from front to back with the thermocouple hole on the correct side.
Notes
Always hold the heater block when necessary to not put strain on the wires.
You may use a bit of heat transfer compound, like that used on CPU's in computers, between metal parts to aid in heat transfer but not necessary.
You shouldn't need tape between the brass tube and aluminum block but could use a bit if it helps in tightening things up. The real pressure is between the brass tube and nozzle and this is the one to get right.
As the brass tube becomes older it gets softer and is more breakable due to over tightening.
All the best
-
It's a fairly common problem I think. There's a new Netfabb on the way very soon maybe with a fix, not sure.
-
Have you restarted Windows?
-
Hi all, got a new board from Ultimaker... Everythings working :-) Thanks for the input!
That's great, thanks for the update. Enjoy your printing.
-
the extruder doesn't really work in the control window.
It does in RepG 26 didn't in RepG 25
and Matt the quickest way to stop it is to start your print, works fine
-
Dear Owen,
Thanks for your advice! I swapped the stepper motor driver. But none of the drivers work in the extruder motor 1 slot.
I'm afraid theremight be a problem with the mother board. What do yo think?
Cheers, Easy
Yep it sounds like it. :? So yeah try what Daid says.
-
Yep Marlin is better with Netfabb due to acceleration and deceleration plus I think Temperature control is better, there may be other benefits too.
-
It could be the Stepper Motor Driver board. There is 4 of them total, 1 for each motor.
Check the the driver board for the extruder is pushed right in. It may need the pot adjusting, see http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide or if it's still not working, check if the driver board is OK by swapping it with one of the other 3 driver boards.
Let us know how you go.
-
Woohoo, looking forward to it. I have one question though. What is the purpose of setting an M109 temp twice even though I know I will be able to configure it how I like now I've always wondered what the purpose of it was. Thanks for your work on this to Florian.
-
Hello,
1. I design something in solidworks, what do I have to learn to make a 3D print?
Hi
See http://techwall.net/ultimaker-3d-printing-workflow some your other questions have many answers which can be found in the forum here or at https://groups.google.com/forum/?pli=1#!forum/ultimaker
Good luck
-
That's great, good luck with it all.
There's lots of small challenges but it sounds like you're well on your way.
I've only ever used Netfabb myself and generate the GCode for use from RepG or Pronter
Enjoy
-
I think it will be something to do with a Dimension plugin for Skienforge. Do a search for that.
-
Good one Micha
-
Thank you for your suggestion.
The z stepper is set to 1/8 as explained in [1]. I allready thought about swiching to 1/16 to fix this but then it would be broken with ReplicatorG / Skeinforge an I hoped (and still hope) there is a software setting for this.
It may be switched to 1/16 via a short, which is why double the steps are sent to the motor. If you had a multimeter you could measure it. If not you could look for a blob of solder accross the tracks. Another way to prove it is shorted is to see if there is a change when you do put a jumper there or not.
Serious misalignment, cant fix it
in Coffee corner
Posted
Yeah Pulleys :roll: