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owen

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Posts posted by owen

    Back Lash compensation needed!!

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi almi

    not sure how you're doing it in RepG but all you have to do is click in the white part

    press Control+a

    type M501

    click on the build button

    in the black window you should get something like this

    [14] Machine stop called.

    [14] Building...

    [14] Estimating build time...

    [14] Estimated build time is:

    [14] Beginning build.

    [14] echo:using default settings:

    [14] echo:steps per unit:

    [14] echo: m92 x79.06 y79.04 z533.33 e14.00

    [14] echo:maximum feedrates (mm/s):

    [14] echo: m203 x400.00 y400.00 z9.00 e150.00

    [14] echo:maximum acceleration (mm/s2):

    [14] echo: m201 x15000 y15000 z150 e200000

    [14] Yes, I have a Realtime Control feature.

    [14] Supports RC

    [14] echo:acceleration: s=acceleration, t=retract acceleration

    [14] echo: m204 s3000.00 t3000.00

    [14] echo:advanced variables: s=min feedrate (mm/s), t=min travel feedrate (mm/s), b=minimum segment time (ms), x=maximum xy jerk (mm/s), z=maximum z jerk (mm/s)

    [14] echo: m205 s0.00 t0.00 b20000 x20.00 z0.40 e5.00

    [14] echo:pid settings:

    [14] echo: m301 p22.20 i1.25 d99.00

    [14] Yes, I have a Realtime Control feature.

    [14] Supports RC

    [14] Done building.

    note: the return values are only to 2 decimal places of accuracy

    How do you guys swap filament?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    At 200 degrees I push the old one by hand or through control panel in RepG so that it is extruding.

    Then I immediately pull it out by hand. It seems to reduce any blob on it this way.

    Then push the new one as far as I can by hand and reclamp the lamp.

    Then extrude a bit if I want to get rid of all the old before I start to print.

    I don't adjust the screw at all.

    Can't connect or install firmware through ReplicatorG

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    “Connection error: Serial port 'COM3' already in use. Try quitting any programs that may be using it.” Nothing else is using COM3.

    Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong?

    For this problem I close RepG.Unplug the USB to UM. Wait for a bit. Plug the USB back in and wait for a bit again and then start RepG again.

    Not sure about the rest.

    You can't have Netfab connected at the same time though either.

    this fault makes your print look like this..

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Thanks for the replies guys :) yeah the blobs are definitely buffer related - I notice the printer "shutdown" for a second before continuing on...

    Hmm so printing overhangs is easier at thicker layer heights? Is it possible to use netfabb to print thicker layers for overhangs and then thinner layers for up skins and straights?

    Don't think so. I've found overhangs OK at thin layers. You want good cooling from your fan and probably printing at a cool a temp as possible will help.

    Back Lash compensation needed!!

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Checked, tried to go up and down with the pot but no change. I need to adjust the motor speeds another way to compensate for the problem. Any other ideas? Do you recommend a better program with other settings? I can always try skeinforge again. Let me know if you have any other ideas. All I know is there is a direct relationship going on between the x and y. It doesn't matter if the part is large or small. The difference between the parts is averaging around .6mm difference. For example if I have a 12mm diameter ring to build and a 12mm wide square one measurement for either would be 12.2mm in x while y would be 11.6mm, an average difference between x and y 6mm. Very strange here. I've build 50 parts so far with a very precise average on this. Tried tensioning the builts in different ways but absolutely no change.

    ST

    Gooday King

    The trim pots adjust the maximum current that the stepper motor can draw. You need to change the Steps per mm for your X and Y in the frimware.

    This is done by sending a M92 command either in your GCode header when you go to print.

    M92 X78.74 Y78.74

    or permanently set it in firmware by issuing

    M500 stores current settings,

    M501 retreives the data from EEPROM (also automatically done after a reset)

    M502 reverts to the 'factory defaults' You'll need to send an M500 if you want to store this in EEPROM.

    so from RepG or Printrun etc.

    send M501 to view what they are currently

    print something 100mm X 100mm

    say your Y setting is currently 80 and your print is 90mm in Y direction

    your new Y would need to be 80 * 100 / 90 = 88.889

    So you would send

    M92 Y88.889

    M500

    do the same for x and it should be all good

    You can also use Daid's Build-me-Marlin to input your X and Y and update your firmware in one hit (It's the way I do it)

    Extruder issues

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    However, sometimes even with the hot end detached it takes a serious effort to push filament through the bowden tube itself. Did anyone else experience that?

    This is what I experienced. The problem is your plastic filament is too thick and it jams in the bowden tube. Even if you get a stronger extruder it might still strip. I had to take out my bowden tube and pull with a pipe wrench while having the bowden tube in a vise for 5-10 minutes to get the filament out. Get better (slightly smaller) filament, or measure and shave off the parts that are thicker. THat should solve your problem nicely.

    I've had it with the shipped ultimaker PLA (2.89 ish) and newly bought PLA (3.00). Also, isn't the inner diameter of the bowden tube 4mm? or only 3? I do seem to have some play left.

    Owen: I am often stuck in the loop of slipping - tightening - slipping - tightening - too tight. Filament deformation is definitely a problem; I hope my new extruder will be able to feed the filament with less pressure on it.

    Also, is it possible that the hot end of the tube is ever so slightly deformed that this causes a problem? I am weary to cut it as it already seems shortish as is.

    Yep, ID of the Bowden tube is well over 3mm and so is the inside of the brass tube. You should be able to push filament through easy when the nozzle is off. It sounds like your temperature could be dropping during the print, are you using Marlin firmware?

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