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Everything posted by lohiaprateek

  1. Thats not a problem on me configuration. Both nozzle size and the shell thickness is set to .6. I'm assuming its something else @daid any heads up on this
  2. So I found out a bug in the support structure generation, screenshot is attached. Using a UMO with a e3d v5 with a .6mm nozzle. No support structure is generated. File can be downloaded from https://www.dropbox.com/s/mcjmpempaz1k11y/chamong%20plate.stl?dl=0
  3. alternatively http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-spare-nozzle-v6 as far as I remember these are a drop in replacement for the existing ultimaker .4mm nozzle.
  4. I get that, since I'm assuming the switch for endstop does not have voltage, we give it power from adapter directly and connect the other two wires to the switch, or is it the opposite, that the limit switch connector has +19v power and we connect the ground to the common ground on the board.
  5. Could you explain how you did the wiring, just picked up a sensor and would love to try it myself.
  6. I use netfabb and the most I've done is 2.5 million poly, printed just fine
  7. so Ive done the same, replaced the x & y axis with the new driver for far smoother movements. Although I'm not sure if the speed that I use to slice is being used when printing. I'm assuming its half of what I'm using to slice. None the less, printer x-y motion is smoother and so are the circles. The reason that the extruder has not been changes is because, I could not calibrate it reliably to print as accurately as the existing setup.
  8. Can you tell the Esteps you changed your firmware to, ordered 4 of the same drivers, should be here by next week, or simply did you just double them?
  9. As mentioned on his page if we found a 24v 15 Amp 350 watt power supply, we dont need the relay? or will ir burn the electronics?
  10. Albeit, printed at 60mm / sec, because I didnt have the fan shroud and printing really fast kept curling the pla.
  11. slightly more expensive than what I got, but then I got it locally. Should do the trick
  12. try printing over SD card. I've had instances that printing over USB makes for a jagged mess. But thats when Gcode files are above 40mb
  13. Printing at 110 mm/s, is as good as it can get. Will have to use them for 100-200 hours to see if they still as smooth as now. Got them from China, have a few contacts there. Could arrange for others if needed. Shall also post a picture of the fan shroud thats printing.
  14. So I picked up self lubricating graphite bearings, they are said to be a drop in replacement for the original sleeves. Since, I was dismantling everything, thought would install this upgrade as well http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211561
  15. Why don't you try a wades extruder or the airstripper extruder, that was built around the bowden setup. Let me know how it went. I'm wanting to try the upgrade as well
  16. You need a better cooling shroud, this mostly happens due to excess heat build up, alternately you could also reduce print speed, such that the parts cool down a fair bit till the next layer start.
  17. Well I just successfully sliced a file which had 2 Million plus faces, takes approximately 5 minutes on a intel q6600. But works like a charm.
  18. funnily enough, mine died last night, I pulled the plastic blade part all out, put some machine oil in the bearing and put it back in. Works as smooth as silk. Needless to say I did clean some dust off the fan
  19. You could use wireless or a wired connection. Either works. Also do see if you can do a VPN into your rouer. So, you could be anywhere in the world, VPN into your router and just type the adress to access the interface.
  20. They have mentioned a lot of the specs on the page, do learn to read and understand prior to showing your excitement
  21. Wow, thats surely a lemon, but in my personal experience, Ultimaker has wonderful support. They have been more than forward in helping me whenever things go wrong.
  22. I saw the semi automatic method a few weeks ago, I would have love to have something like this, but alas I cant design for nuts. Maybe some of the more experienced people on the forum will be able to do it.
  23. Well, I use nf for anything that does not require retraction. Retraction is quite a bi***. Other than that, the surface finishes and quality of print from nf's gcode is second to none. I built my own profile settings from the ground up with very little taken from the original profiles. Took a lot of time, but works perfectly now. some of my prints are on http://3dlabs.in Do go through to see what I've been able to do
  24. Well, ive had some fantastic results with glue stick, which I guess is a solid PVA glue.
  25. Well, I remeber there was a thread on the forum where people were mulling using a pi or a BeagleBone instead on the arduino. But no one got around to doing something concrete. (Couldnt find that thread, hence the new one) Well I just came across this like, and someone seems to have worked things out http://bb-lcnc.blogspot.in/ Hopefully the code gurus can come up with something in the near future.
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