zungara
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Posts posted by zungara
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After days of good printing i have got a problem with under extrusion which i got not solved.
I am printing a kind a table for my orchid. For one plant it was 2 pieces with a print time of 24 hours per piece. This was the good result:
I have sliced it with Cura with following settings:
filament_diameter = 2.82
nozzle_size = 0.4
wall_thickness = 0.8
retraction_enable = True
max_z_speed = 3.0
travel_speed = 150
layer_height = 0,2
solid_layer_thickness = 1
fill_density = 30
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 210
support = None
enable_raft = False
filament_density = 1.00
skirt_line_count = 2
skirt_gap = 3.0
retraction_min_travel = 5.0
retraction_speed = 40.0
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_extra = 0.0
bottom_layer_speed = 20
cool_min_layer_time = 60
fan_enabled = True
bottom_thickness = 0
object_sink = 0.0
enable_skin = True
plugin_config = (lp1
.
model_matrix = 1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0
extra_base_wall_thickness = 0.0
cool_min_feedrate = 10
fan_layer = 1
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
raft_margin = 5
raft_base_material_amount = 100
raft_interface_material_amount = 100
support_rate = 25
support_distance = 0.3
infill_type = Grid Hexagonal
solid_top = True
fill_overlap = 20
bridge_speed = 100
sequence = Loops > Perimeter > Infill
force_first_layer_sequence = True
joris = False
retract_on_jumps_only = True
hop_on_move = False
For the second plant i want to print same again. So i used the gcode files again. But in the night problems began. I have marked it in the picture.
When i stand up the printer prints hours in the air.
I try it again but now i see in the beginning of the print the problem of under extrusion. I though i have a plugging problem and so i clean my hot end, but after rebuild the same behavior. I try to raise the temperature and to slow down the speed. The result are always the same. See the two mark in the picture. When i am looking on the print it seems to be a interval between good and bad extrusion.
If i have to print a short line (markt region) the region of under extrusion is about 10mm hight and of good extrusion is 16 mm hight. When i compare good and bad regions it seems to be always the same quotient.
Has anybody i idea what happens?
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Die Lösung war das Printbett-Level.
Das kann ich auch nur bestätigen. Zum einen habe ich zur Erleichterung mir folgendes gedruckt:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32372
Hiermat kann mal den End-Stop gut justieren. Beim der Feinjustage der Plattform verwende ich eine kleine Laminierfolie (die saugt sich schön an die Plattform, es geht auch mit einem gefaltetem Zettel) Wenn ich diese mit einem leichten Wiederstand zwischen Druckkopf und Platform bekommen habe ich die richtige Höhe. Das mache ich 2 mal mit allen 4 Ecken.
Wie schon vorher geschrieben nutze ich noch das breite 3M Band.
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Ja, genau ich sprühe vorher etwas über die Fläsche. Wichtig ist das du das Haarspray gut trocknen lässt sonst bilden sich kleine Blasen durch die Verdunstung der Restfeuchte.
Du kannst das Breite Band günstig bei Conrad bestellen. (Ist das Original nur breiter)
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Das mit dem Verziehen kann man eigentlich gut in den Griff bekommen zumindest mit PLA.
Ich verwende ein breites 3M Band, das hilft schon mal, da sich das Band nicht ganz so leicht vom Tisch löst. Wenn ich häufiger das Band verwendet habe nutze ich noch Haarspray. Als letztes kann ich noch eine Einstellung in Cura empfehlen: Skirt 10 und Skirt Distance: 0
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Durch das breite 3M Band hat sich das Problem fast gelöst. Das sich das Objekt verzieht weil sich das Klebeband löst kommt bei mir nur noch vor, wenn ich das Band schon häufiger bedruckt habe und beim Lösen Probleme hatte, das es zu fest am Klebeband geklebt hat.
Auch verwende ich häufig die Einstellung bei Cura : Skirt 10 Skirtdistance 0 Das hilft ungemein....
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Ich ich mir das breite Malerkrepp von M3 bei Conrad bestellt:
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I open the console log and then a start Cura normally.
I got the following messages:
22.03.13 18:29:32,128 Cura[484]: GLUT Warning: glutInit being called a second time.
22.03.13 18:29:33,751 Cura[484]: objc[484]: Object 0x11060e5d0 of class NSConcreteMapTable autoreleased with no pool in place - just leaking - break on objc_autoreleaseNoPool() to debug
after i click the load Button in the main Window the hidden windows appears
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In general you are right. Try both examples. For me it is not possible to get good results.
1. the pc cooler model has a problem with the circle beside the wall. The slicer makes a hole in the wall. Of course it is a model problem, but netfab makes it without problem
2. i do not know where the problem is but i get no good results, netfab makes no problem (click and print)
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Hi,
in general i fully agree with Digixx. How i said before i generally use Cura. (Thanks Diad you make a very good job. Cura is getting better and better) But not only large file have problems. For example this little pice for my daughter make me crasy with cura (wall size 0.4 is important).:
http://thingiverse.com/thing:46735
with netfab the default settings makes a nice print. For me it is important to have a useable alternative to Cura, because different slicing strategies makes different results. Another modell that work not like you expect with Cura is the following:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29253
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OK of course i have to tell which System i use:
It is an IMac with Mounton Lion and the last patch from i think last week.
@iliminarti:
(Actually when I tried to hide it, the app went behind other windows, and stopped responding to clicks, but was still on-screen. I had to click the icon - effectively unhiding it -to get it to behave properly again)It is same behavior. The only thing that helped is to get a load / save dialog. I the moment you get this dialog every hiden window become visible. The problem is, that all menu items are disabled so the only way is to use the "Object" Window to add or to load a new modell
@diad: if you want further information like console log files and so on contact me.
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Hi the support of netfab is horoble espatially for MAC(there are a lot of updates, but you have to email manually to get a new version. My last update was january 2013. Retraction works fine), but some point are valuable for me.
1. Sometimes Cura does not slice correctly and you are not able to print. If Cura does not work netfab does
2. netfab has a nice error correction which helps to get a good clice
3. if you have big thinks you want to print netfab is very fast
4. sometimes the surface look a little bit better.
In general i print with Cura. Cura is very good but somes Cura fails. Therefore i am happy to own netfab.
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Hi, i have still a window problem with since 12.x.
Sometimes when you wants to open preference window or advanced settings the new window will not open. All Elements of the existing window are disabled, but the new window will not apear. The program thinks that the new window is visible, but the user did not see it.
When you open the load dialog via the Button in the main window the missing window will apear. After closing the load dialog every think works fine until you quit Cura and restart it.
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As Sander said, it's important to make the nozzle good and tight BEFORE you screw the brass tube into the aluminum block.
Yes that is very important, but be pationt not not to break the brass. I your picture i see red fillament. That does not happen.
If you ever cancel a print in Cura, it doesn't turn off the heated nozzle (for some strange reason,) and if you let it sit for a short while, the hot end will plugI do it it in the other way around. Before i start printing i preheat my hot end. If i wait not long enough and the first layer looks not nice i abourt the the print and way a little bit and start again.
On long prints at higher temps, the heat from the brass creeps upward into the nylon area and makes the incoming filament gooey and sticky.i can not agree. I make very long prints (longer than 50 hours) and i have no problems with my hot end v2. At the beginning i had some problems with my fillament which causes similar problems. It looks like i have problem with a plugging nozzle, but it was the fillament which has a to big diameter. My experiance was that if the fillament has a diameter bigger than 3.05mm you will get problems when you have a long time print.
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You have to change the path in the "Preference" Window. (SD Card Setting)
Put in the SD card before you want to change the settings otherwise you will not found the right path
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After assembling i had the same problem. I ask the support of ultimaker and we get a solution.
First i got a new fan but it doesn't work.
Second i got a new PCB and a new cabeling and it works.
Now everything works fine and i am very happy. The support was very good and they helped not only for my core problem, but sometimes you have to remember them. (shipping the replacement was not in time :-) )
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super! Thank you
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sorry perhaps i understand something wrong, but my intention was that the temperature change automatically at a defined hight to a defined new temperature .
To change the temperature manually at a defined hight is right now possible with the plugin stop at high.
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I think it will be helpful to config the temperature at a specified high like the plugin stop at high, which for example is very useful to fill the object your are printing with sand.
I think it is easy tho change speed and temperature while printing on your own
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Also ich habe mein letztes Fillament auch bei der Grrf bestellt (Schwarz, Orange, Holz). Ich bin sehr zufrieden. Der Durchmesser ist recht konstant, so weit ich das bis jetzt beurteilen kann. Das Holz-Fillament habe ich auch mal ausprobiert. Ich war sehr überrascht wie gut es sich drucken ließ. Auch die Default-Einstellungen für das Holz-plugin waren sehr gut. Ich hatte so meine Bedenken, dass durch die große Temperatur-Veränderung 180-230 Grad es Probleme geben könnte. Es lief alles glatt. Je größer die Temperaturschwankungen umso größer Holzring-Simulation. Nur etwas größere Wandstärken schienen mir ratsam, da die Hand die ich gedruckt hatte beim ersten Versuch beim Entfernen vom Drucktisch zerbrochen ist. Der 2. Versuch lief glatt und ich bin voll zufrieden.
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Normally i print with Cura. Cura is is a great software and a lot of things are better. But some times netfabb is better and there i want to use it.
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The Mac Version has no ability to update automatically. :cry:
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Where do you download the new version? I am only able to download the 4.9.3 version?
Under extrusion
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Why, the first print was perfect. I used the same gcode-file, with same setting, same material......and the diameter of the filament was nearly the same.