gr5

This thread is old and I almost missed your post. If I don't reply, it helps to send me a DM in addition to posting here. With a link in the DM to this thread. Yes you can definitely test the feeder. It should pull with about 10-15 pounds of force (about 5-7kg). What I usually do is go into the move menu item and slide the filament so the end is well up visible in the bowden tube. Then I use the MOVE feature to move the filament forwards while I grab the filament just below the feeder and fight the printer. Hard. 10 pounds of force is a lot! You can lift something that weighs 10 pounds to get an idea of how much force that is. Or you can poition the printer so it is just almost over the edge of a table and grip a 10 pound weight to the filament hanging down below the table. Or you can compare to a working UM2+/S3/S5/S7/2+C printer as they all have similar pulling force (but much more force than a UM2). The S5 feeder should last years even if running 24/7 it should last for 6 months before the feeder would need service. Typically. But you never know. Things happen. I strongly suspect the issue is in the print core. I'd buy a new one. But doing the cold pull and seeing the result will hopefully provide evidence one way or the other.

This information is gold to anyone doing support. This is probably some hardware that failed. Electronics has a very high failure rate in the first few hours.

Let me explain a little: 40C might be the ideal temp for you. I really don't know. I recommended 100C for reduced stress - for reduced shrinking of the higher layers. But it might hurt adhesion. 100C for nylon is also good because nylon is more flexible at 100C so it will flex a little which spreads the strong forces to more area so it sticks better instead of all the lifting force on the very tip of the corner. But it might not *stick* as well at that temp. I really don't know much about these metal print beds. So although 100C is *normally* much better for nylon (and 60C for PLA) than colder temps, I don't know about other possible factors.

Most Magigoo products are designed for glass. I really don't know what products are best for your bed but you did that print recently (first photo above) and that worked great. What did you change since then? Change everything back to when it worked (and wash that magigoo off if you didn't use it originally). Except the clips - leave the clips if you are printing near the corners like in your first photos above. You can actually email the Magigoo people and they are fantastic. They are fanatical about creating a fantastic product. By now I'm sure they have tested their products with many types of plates. They have some UM printers but possibly not the S7. Magigoo has many different product for many types of printe bed and material and this is not a scam but they really did a good job with researching the best possible product that (typically) releases when the bed cools. What does UM recommend for surface treatment for the S7 and for your print material (Nylon). For Nylon on glass I use wood glue mixed with 10 parts water (which I think is PVA). That glue stick that comes with most UM printers also has PVA glue in it. One can spread that on glass, wet a tissue and mix it up and remove most of it right there on the glass. Then heat it up until it dries.

Here is from an old post: Actually I strongly recommend you install the tinkergnome version of the Marlin firmware. It can be found here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases Use 16.01 which is the most stable version and it works great. Just scroll way the hell down until you get to 16.01. You will get so many great features there is no need to go to newer versions. tinker Marlin has all the same menu entries but is much nicer - for example you can continue a failed print starting at any height. And it shows you more things that are going on while printing. The default PID values are 10,2.5,100 for the 25W heater. For 35W heater you might try 7.5, 1.8, 75. But if you will be printing at high throughput - for example with 1mm nozzle, .4mm layers, 50mm/sec then the default values may be fine. Tinkergnome marlin lets you set the PID values right on the menu and also it will do the auto tune for you right from the menu if you want. neotko had good luck with 35W pid values at 8, .5, 33 These are good starting PID values for various heaters 25W PID 10, 2.5, 100 35W PID 7.5, 1.8, 75 35W PID 8, .5, 33 (neotko recommends) 40W PID 6.5, 1.5, 60 50w PID 5, 1.2, 50 50W PID 5.6, .35, 23 (neotko X 35/50) 40W PID 6.2, 1.5, 33 (george suspects should work well) In general if the temperature is hanging out below desired temp for many minutes then raise P and I 20%. If P or I are too high it will oscillate. I creates a slower oscillation. I'm guessing oscillation due to P is probably around 30 to 60 seconds. I would be slower. D is like the brakes. D (stands for derivative as in calculus) dampens the power when the temp is moving fast. So it helps dampen oscillation and helps prevent overshoot on initial heatup. I is the slow long term adjustment to eventually get the temp exactly perfect. If it gets close to the desired temperature but stops 3 to 5C lower the first time and then takes another minute to get up to temp it's probably that D is too large. Try cutting it by around 20% or 50%. D can paradoxically cause oscillations also. So usually I recommend increasing D if the overshoot bothers you. Decreasing I and P and increasing D by maybe 10% at a time if it oscillates. Use lower values on all of these for higher wattage heaters with everything else being the same. gcodes for setting pid e.g. for 40W values above: M301 H1 P6.2 I1.5 D33 M500 The M500 saves to permanent memory. Without doing that you lose PID values on power cycle. So for example put the above 2 lines of gcode into a file - say a.gcode, then save onto SD card and put into an Ultimaker, choose print, choose a. done. Your PID is updated. MORE DETAILS: http://reprap.org/wiki/G_code#M301:_Set_PID_parameters

.6mm layer height X 0.8mm line width X 60mm/sec results in 29 cubic mm per second. Thats... a lot. Oh!! And it's ABS. So yeah there is no way with the standard 25 Watt heater. So, um, good news? Nothing is broken. You can get a 50 watt heater from 3dsolex.com if you want to print that much volume. I used to sell them. I actually might have one... Nope. I don't have any left (I've been shutting down my store slowly). But 3dsolex sells very good quality heaters. 35W, 40W, and 50W. At least they used to have all 3 wattages. Not sure what their current selection is. You'll also want to change the PID a bit for the 50W heater. You don't absolutely have to but I recommend it. I have PID values if you want them. I've probably also posted them for various wattage heaters.

Did you see the 3 posts/pins on or near the red board? I think there is a photo on my web page.

It looks like you are in USA so contact fbrc8 immediately. support@fbrc8.com. Include the serial number of the printer. fbrc8 assembled your printer and they are experts and have great support. In other words I recommend skipping over your reseller and going direct to fbrc8. Meanwhile please tell me what you did regarding the firmware recovery - did you put an image on an SD card? Did you use the proper image creation software? (you can't just copy the image - you need to use a special tool of which there are many). Did it show the update happening on the display? The firmware recovery step seems like the best advice by far. It will reflash the memory on both the unix computer (green) and the motion controller (largest board). Your other question about AM. yes, sometimes updates go better if you disconnect AM and also MS (material station). But your update is already complete so it may not help. It's okay (allowed) to connect and unconnect AM and MS (and then reboot) at any time in any pattern and sometimes doing this helps things. But probably not in your case. Be prepared to return the problem printer to your reseller if things aren't resolved.

Are there any lights on under there? It could be: 1) The power cable isn't fully plugged in - it's a little tricky and sometimes it feels like it's plugged in but it isn't 2) The power brick may have failed Another common thing is that the flash memory gets corrupted on the olimex board (red board) and it won't fully boot. This indeed can often be fixed with a firmware recovery if you use a new enough firmware (which repartitions the flash memory). If you don't mind spending some time fixing this, look on the red board for 3 connections - 3 pins sticking up labelled something like I,O,G (for in, out ground - or maybe SRG for send, receive, ground - I forget exactly). If your red board has those then you can get the olimex "serial cable F", hook it up and see diagnostics, see the boot, and even log into the root account if boot fails and repartition the internal flash memory yourself. Much more info here: http://gr5.org/unbricking/

Also my friend mentioned that prusa printers have this same issue you are having as it's only magnets holding the flex plate down. You could see what they have learned over on their forum but UM already has the advantage of an enclosed printer.

I'd try these things (see picture) on the 4 corners. Did it warp any less at 100C versus 40C? The doors were closed, right? You want it the air 1cm above the plate also as warm as possible. So I asked some 3d printing expert friends about this topic and one of them mentioned that they've seen warping parts shatter the glass beds as well in rare cases. The good news is that none of the parts in the center are coming off the plate. So I think these binder clips alone will solve your problem.

What bed temp?

The Ultimaker can take the abuse. The filament - maybe not. The Ultimaker can print 8 hours per day for a year before it needs new belts and with very cheap maintenance will last much longer than that.

Also sometimes I forget to read this thread so to get faster answers send me a direct message *after* you post here to remind me to check this thread.

Well your description is a bit vague so I have questions: 1) Before you changed the sensor, did it ever work with a 0.8mm nozzle? Are you using the same layer height, speed, temp and material? 2) How much did the temp dip? If your heater is a bit wimpy typically the temp will dip by 5C or 10C. If so then the heater can't keep up. If it's jumping around say 200C and then a second later at 100C then the sensor is bad. Most likely it's the heater. 3) How fast are you printing with the .8 nozzle? I need to know: a) material (pla?) b) layer height c) print speed Right now my best guess is that your heater is wimpy. it was *always* wimpy. And you are just printing a little bit too fast for the heater. But... I could certainly be wrong. ER03 during a print is almost always a problem related to the heater, not the sensor. But it's possible that the problem is the sensor, I'll know much more how likely the problem is the sensor versus the heater after you answer the 3 questions above.

Your question is too vague. Please watch youtube videos on what you need to learn.

The improvement with speed probably has to do with temperature. Instead of printing faster, do you get the same results with lower nozzle temp?

I'm still a little confused if you are actually looking at preview mode and seeing which moves are retracting moves and which aren't. If I look at your photo you posted quite a while ago with a black part and a white (gray?) part I can see the black part has 3 thick strings and many thin strings (please look right now real quick). Those 3 thick strings probably had zero retraction. There is no need to actually print the part when playing with this as you can see that in PREVIEW mode *before* you even start the print. Getting rid of those thin strings are really easy. You buy this tool here or similar - a small refillable butane torch - about 5 euros plus get the refill can: https://www.amazon.com/Urgrette-Lighter-Refillable-Adjustable-Included/dp/B08MPLVCZC You can use a candle instead but it's easier with the torch as you can aim it downwards. You pass this over the thin strings for the tiniest amount of time. Around 1/100th to 1/10th of a second. The thin strings melt and shrivel to nothing and the other plastic doesn't have time to warm up. You are probably thinking that you can still see the strings or that they will make a blob. They do make a blob but it's smaller than you would think. It's really an amazing tool and you need to try it to understand how powerful this method is.

Did you check if the heater block is touching the fan shroud? That's the most common problem I've seen on this forum for people with UM2 series printers. It even happened to me. Twice! The fan should was just kind of hung up and I just needed to loosen the 4 screws and kind of shove it over a bit. But you may also need rotate that cylindrical ring that holds the olsson block. Possibly.

That's the sensor, not the heater.

Can you say exactly which heating problem you got? The most common are ER01 and ER03 for nozzle heater issues. If it's ER01 then you have a problem with your sensor. If it's ER03 then you might want to buy a heater with a higher wattage rating. Why did you buy a new heater? Where did you get the heater? Also ER03 is common if the heater block is touching the fan shroud. With the print head cool (not hot), try to slip a piece of paper between the olsson block and the fan shroud. If you can't then you need to either loosen and adjust the fan shroud or you need to raise up the Olsson block just a tiny bit. You need at least 0.2mm air gap between the two. Otherwise the fan shroud acts as a huge heatsink. However if you only get the error with the 0.8mm nozzle then more likely you have a wimpy heater. You can test the heater by measuring it's resistance. The wattage is v^2/R and v is 24Volts so 576/resistance. I believe the standard wattage is 25W and 3dsolex sells 35W as standard heaters and you can also get 40W or 50W heaters from 3dsolex but 35W should be enough for a 0.8mm nozzle when printing at around 30mm/sec. Printing at 200mm/sec with 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers you probably need a 50W heater.

Although I know a ton about 3d printing, I have never used a flexiplate and haven't learned a lot about them but I do know things about nylon. As each layer cools it pulls inward so it would make sense to me that the cooling nylon would slowly (after maybe 1cm of printing) pull inward and flex the plate upwards around the edges of the print. Especially on the longer dimensions of the print. One solution is to keep the bed hot. Then I see... 40C bed temp??? Really? For glass the default is 80C I think for nylon. I actually increase that to 100C to reduce warping during printing. Nylon gets "hard" around 120C so I only have to deal with shrinking range of about 20C. But with the build plate at 40C... 120-40 is 80C of shrinking - 4X more than what I experience. Can the flexplate handle hotter temps than 40C? I don't know much about it but I'd consider going up to 100C if the flexiplate doesn't care. PLEASE let me know what you learn so I can help out the next person.

20cm!! wow. This is very unusual and very strange. I don't think it's possible that the problem is in cura because cura I believe sends T0 to switch to the first extruder and T1 to switch to the second and I don't think there are any possible gcodes that would move both extruders at the same time. The "E" gcode moves the extruder and some printers allow "F" to move the second extruder but I think the S5 doesn't support that and instead you should only be able to move one at a time. And I can't think of a hardware failure that would do this either. So that leaves a firmware issue in the servo controller board. If you upgrade the firmware on the S5 it will also upgrade the firmware on the servo controller.

@mcvange please post a picture. Usually PVA issues are related to moisture in the filament and require a drying process but not always.