gr5
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Posts posted by gr5
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6 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
Have you tried extracting the AppImage and running the binaries contained in it?
oh! smart!
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I don't like the way the temperature jumps to 700C briefly. Both in your latest graph and the earlier graph. Something is wrong there. There is a loose connection somewhere between the pt100 sensor and the bottom of your printer so it could be in the printcore (most likely), where the printcore connects to the print head, in the printhead connector, or where it connects to the PCB under the printer.
It's common on the UM3 for the printhead cable to pull up and eventually out of the connector. On the top of the print head, remove the two very long (maybe 6cm) bolts. Nothing will fall apart. Then on the back half you can pop off the top cover - the back half of the top cover of the print head. Then you will see where the electric cable goes into the print head and to a connector. Push firmly down on the connector noting if it moved at all. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar so you can get a good look at it while you press down and see if it moves. If it does move, when you put it back together, put some paper or masking tape around the cable as a shim (google "shim wiki").
If the cable is fine then you should really throw away that printcore. It's very difficult to make those sensors reliable. You can't solder the pt100 to the wiring because solder melts 200C to 250C (depending on the type of solder). So instead the wiring is crimped to the pt100 and with lots of heating and cooling the crimp can fail. This is somewhat common (maybe 5% of all temp sensors fail within a year of printing - mostly a guess based on my printers).
Do you still have all 3 of your original printcores? If not, it's time to buy one. Or you can use the BB 0.4 for PLA. It will work just fine. Consider using the BB as a test to see if this fixes your issue and if it does then we have definitely diagnosed the problem.
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Wow. Yeah that's extremely unusual. These nozzles should have plenty of power. This makes no sense.
Why is extruder 2 heating up at all? Are you positive it isn't printing support or something with extruder 2?
If a nozzle gets 100% power and still keeps cooling for more than 30 seconds, the printer will halt with an error code ("heater error"). Why isn't it halting with an error code? Maybe it's not getting 100% power? Why not? It just doesn't make sense.
I'd try swapping with another core. Another AA 0.4. Your printer should have come with a BB 0.4 and two AA 0.4 cores.
Also try going into the TUNE menu on the printer and go to the nozzle temp and it should show you what it thinks the temp is. YOu can adjust it upwards. You can also try slowing down the printer by 2X to see if the lower amount of flow results in less watage needed. You can also slow down the fans, sometimes the air from the fan gets diverted to the nozzle. Either bouncing off the heated bed or if there is no silicone sheild. Did you remove the silicone shield on the bottom of your print head? Maybe show a picture of that. They cost something like 3 for 5 dollars/euros.
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Maybe do the manual leveling before doing the xy calibration. I don't remember if that's mandatory but I think that's probably the problem.
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1 hour ago, b3_engineering said:
Here's what happens. The head moves to the back right corner. Then it moves down to the build plate until it makes contact with the right print nozzle. Next it slowly pushes down until it makes contact with the left print nozzle. As soon as it makes contact with the second one the bed drops down about half an inch and then it says the leveling failed.
Are both nozzles hitting the glass at the same time? I guess not? That wouldn't make sense I think?
So first the right nozzle hits the glass and then does the bed quickly drop down?
Only after that it tests the left nozzle?
Ideally both tests should stop right when the nozzle hits the bed. If it keeps pushing for like 3 more seconds then there is a problem.
Having a sensor value of 2.3 is excellent. Anything below I think 8 is good.
When the right nozzle is down it should be 1.5mm lower than the left nozzle +/- 0.7mm.
You can see what that measured value is by looking in the logs. You can ssh to the printer if it's in "developer mode". Or you can just put a flash drive in there and in the menus you can dump the logs to a flash drive and examine them. Look at the date/time to find the most recent and search for these key words:
"peak" and "Preliminary"
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Is the front fan working? The symptoms you describe sound like what happens when the front fan is not spinning. Not the side fans on the print head - the fan in the door of the print head.
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oh wow. Strange. Not sure if this is a hardware or software problem. Can you supply a wider angle photo that shows where it *was* printing on the bed? It looks like in the background it was near the left edge. Did it start doing this later in the print or right at the start?
Part of me thinks it's a hardware problem where the steppers skipped some steps due to extreme friction or something. Part of me thinks the part was sliced on the far left edge (maybe the origin got messed up in cura which can happen). part of me thinks one of the gantry rods slipped out of the sliding blocks.
I think we need more information. An overhead photo should help a lot.
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Oh, also in the start gcode you can put in variable like things. So you can put in something similar to M190 {material_bed_temp} or something vaguely like that and it will take the parameter you passed with -S and put it in there automatically. Using the CLI has a big learning curve.
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If you run cura normally there is a place to edit the start gcode - you go to PREPARE tab towards top (slightly left) on screen, then you choose your selected printer, then you choose "manage printers" then "machine settings", and then there is a tab where you can edit the start/stop gcodes. Slashee meant there I think.
However, there is certainly another way to edit the machine profile file for your particular printer (anycubic mega...). I don't know where the file is stored but I do know it's complicated where you have machine profiles including/inheriting from other machine profiles and user overrides and all that.
Usually, this is all taken care of for most printers but perhaps you chose the wrong anycubic mega model or perhaps anycubic never properly coded this up.
slashee calls it a "printer definition file" so I guess that's what you need to edit if you do it by editing the file (versus editing it with the Cura GUI). There are 2 directory trees where things like this are stored. Both somewhat hidden. On linux it's in a hidden folder that starts with something like ".cura". On windows I think it can be in the installation folder possibly? Or the %appdata% folder somewhere. All I remember is that it is complicated with one folder holding installed printer definition files (and hundreds of other printers, hundreds of materials, profiles and more) and another completely separate directory tree holding files that users have/can edit to override the things in the first directory tree.
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Why are you using command line interface?
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Yes. I think the support blocker is a good one because sometimes you do need it.
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Everything you describe would be done in python. So you don't need to modify CuraEngine. I strongly suspect you can also do this as a plugin which ideally should also be written in python.
There are tutorials on writing plugins somewhere. I don't know much about it. This is too advanced for me.
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Cura is kind of dumb. It sees that top of the X and thinks it needs support. But it doesn't.
Cura has lots of features to fix this. In the case of this exact issue, I'd use a feature called "support blockers". But put the blocker up near the top of the X - where the surface is that cura thinks needs support. Don't put the blocker where the support is that you want to take away.
In PREPARE mode, click the model, then on the left there is a tool you click called "support blocker". Then click near the top of the X in your model. A cube will appear. Click the cube so only the cube is slected, then switch to the scale tool on the left side (second too from top?). Now scale the "blocking" cube to include the top surfaces of the X. You can select the move tool to move the cube around. You can rotate the cube. Etc. It's possible to load an STL to be the support blocker - you don't have to use a cube but it will do for your purposes.
Slice again.
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If you will be doing hundreds of prints then yes probably print out an oiler. If you are doing one for now and have no plans for others for the next month then having to visit the printer for 30 seconds every hour is probably not a hardship.
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1) Add a drop of oil to the filament before inserting into the bowden. Add another drop every meter (about every hour or so).
2) 10mm/sec print speed
3) Loosen feeder tension to minimum
4) Print at max recommended temperature
5) Is there any way you can print this on it's side? Or will that require support?
6) increase flow
#1 is the most important and the one people are most hesitant to do. So unfortunately I have to explain it the most. It will not add holes into your print as some people expect. It will not harm your printer or the filament. It just works and it works very well. Of the 5 things above if you only do one, do #1.
#6 - even at lowest tension, it will squish the filament such that the cross section is smaller. Which means less volume of filament is moving through the feeder than expected. I don't know how much less. Start with 10% extra (110% in the TUNE menu on the UM2). Maybe play with that until the layers are looking as good as the left image above. If you set this too high you risk the filament ending up in the feeder all curled up and making a mess in there. And that problem may take several minutes to appear as you are adding extra filament, then more, then more and slowly it builds up.
You can do #6 only and skip #3 if you set the flow right. As 6 is basically compensating for #3 not being loose enough.
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@Ranshii - I think the feature you haven't noticed yet is that there is a PREVIEW mode to see the support and slicing results. This is a critical view to see if slicing is working properly. Never print anything without looking at the preview first.
One way to get to it is on your 3rd screenshot there is a "preview" button.
All your screenshots are in "PREPARE" mode. There are 3 "tab like" things you can click on near the top of the screen (PREPARE PREVIEW MONITOR). That's the more common way to switch to preview mode.
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As far as I can tell, both Ultimaker and fbrc8 have taken down the instructions which is a shame. However your reseller will have the instructions as a pdf. I've seen the instructions - very detailed. Lots of pictures. Call your reseller immediately or if for some reason you don't want to talk to them, you can contact Ultimaker. Phone/email support is free even if your warranty expired. Start by clicking the 9 dots in the tic-tac-toe grid in the upper right of this page. Then choose "support" and then the tricky part: click "submit a request" near the top of the page. That's the part that's hard to find.
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There's no need to guess. Ultimaker has very detailed and clear instructions. Let me go look...
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Wait, why do you want an algorithmic model? Can't your mathematical model create an STL file? If so then you could do this in python. Please explain a small amount about the mathematical model.
For example if you want to warp the shape of an STL to a different shape, you don't need to change curaEngine.
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You will need to modify CuraEngine to do that. There are instructions somewhere. So you got compiler errors? Maybe repost the compiler errors but not in a zip file? @Dustin, is three really a pace in github to talk about how to build curaEngine? it seems github is just for bugs/features.
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@boyzkill are you trying to build Cura from source code (something only programmers should do)? Or are you just trying to install and run Cura?
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When the print order feature comes out, I'm curious if it only applies to "one at a time mode" or also "all at once mode". I'd wait for that before writing a plugin but if it only applies to "one at a time mode", then it sounds like you would have at least one customer for said script. 🙂
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We don't want her to get in trouble with the moderators, lol!
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Temp drops during prints on UM3
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
oh! Maybe it's not a problem then?
But the whole thing is strange. There is a specific test that is in (I thought) all Ultimaker printers where if a printcore is getting 100% power for 30 seconds and the temp doesn't go up by 1C then it fails. I guess that means it is not getting 100% power. The PID values may need some adjustment. You could increase the P value. This is just strange. I've never heard of anyone adjusting their PID values for an ultimaker brand printcore.
I'm still leaning to getting a new printcore. Did you check the cable in the printhead yet?
I could help you program the printcore PID I suppose. I'm not a fan of that. Most printcores have zero values in the PID eeprom and uses default PID settings but I can show you how to program PID values into the printcore. First step is to put the printer into developer mode and then ssh into user/pass ultimaker/ultimaker
If you can get that far I'll lookup how to program the PID.