gr5
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Posts posted by gr5
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I think it's pretty clear that it's not a proper solution and indeed it's useless for people in "all at once" mode. Also typically "all at once" mode you don't care what order it prints. But not always. I'm going to leave it at least for a few days. Hopefully 5.7 makes it all moot.
Also don't think that this means Ultimaker is off the hook to add this feature. They are certainly still on the hook. And it looks like they already did it and it will be in the next release.
I agree @rachael7 it could give people hope, only to dash it away again when they read it.
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I marked @jeroent as "the solution" even though obviously it's not the perfect solution - it is by far the best I've seen at this point. Hopefully it's all moot when the next cura comes out.
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Did you read this? It's the same interface since 2016:
part1:
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15574-inside-the-ultimaker-3-day-2-remote-access-part-1/
part2:
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15604-inside-the-ultimaker-3-day-3-remote-access-part-2/
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Oh - and it's not the active leveling. Active leveling expects the right core to go down 1.5mm more than the left with a tolerance of 0.7mm. Beyond that and Active Leveling fails. It sounds like you are seeing errors of more than 0.7mm, lol.
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This is an S3?
Can you show a video?
It sounds like the collision isn't an end-of-travel in X or Y axis, right? The collision is only nozzle to glass? I guess I need to see it.
I think I would try to do a factory reset - I think that might be in the menus somewhere.
There are a TON of constants/values/parameters stored on the printer. For example, position of the print core switching device. Where to nozzle purge. How high to move up after a print. How much to extract after a print. Temperature values. And so on.
One of those values is probably where to go in Z axis for the print core switch step (or how much to move the bed down). That value may be corrupt and may be negative slamming the nozzle into the bed. This is one possible theory (but it would be helpful to see what you mean in a 5 second video).
One fix is to try "factory reset" if the S3 has that option (it might not - I forget). The other fix would be to try reinstalling the firmware. Again, assuming this is the issue.
Also be aware that the "hard drive" (it's bascially an SSD) on the S3 gets corrupted somewhat easily and I know people who had to re-install the firmware because of this. Blocks of data just... fail occasionally. I'm talking like, on average, one block of data per month. 90% of the time it doesn't matter. But sometimes it corrupts something important - the block is automatically detected and walled off and never used again but it will read the wrong values until you re-install the firmware.
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I don't get those lines. I'm not sure why. I probably just print slower than most people? They aren't so obvious on white filament.
I'm sure the UltiMaker Cura people will do it but it may take a year or two. Or someone not on the cura team will do it and do a pull request (PR) (this happens more often than you would think). Or someone will make a plugin. It's a pretty cool idea. It sounds like it's not a trivial feature and even though it works pretty well, there is still some tweaking to make it work in more situations.
Reading what other people wrote, it's not a perfect fix. I'm not sure what the issue is but maybe certain geometry keeps it from working? Or maybe it only works in "spiralize" mode? Not sure.
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Well, I don't know if it's common, but it seems to me it's almost always the front fan. Look at the image, you don't have to take the print head apart, just unplug the fan as shown in the link.
It could be that it's only 1% of people find out it's the front fan but I seem to hear from all of them, lol. So it seems like it's 80% of the issues but could be only 1% of the issues. I really don't know. Also this is a common issue when the printer gets worse slowly. Something about the fan gets worse slowly over many months/years.
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Yes, what Dustin said. Try everything they mention but a very common cause is the front fan. So try disconnecting it. If that's the issue it could be that this is fixed in a newer firmware - which firmware do you have?
But also of course try the other things in that article.
Keep running that sensor test and try to get it below 7 or 8.
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I wrote you a long answer and then realized that this article is much better:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337565436
Cura does position objects in the center of the printable area by default. You can click on the object, select the move tool on the left and make sure that "x" offset is zero - that's the center. The origin is the left side so the center is not zero but the offset is zero.
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This is an exciting new technology for slicers. I only first heard of this last night and now it seems everyone is talking about it.
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@GregValiant - do you happen to know if there is an issue in github for this bug?
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sync with printer just tells the printer about a new material so if you go to the marketplace and install (and restart cura) a new material you can then sync it with the printers so now they know about it also. It's more of a one way "sync" from cura to the printer.
@Slashee_the_Cow - can you explain again how to reset all the settings in cura back to "factory install" or whatever? Maybe that will fix it. I never remember what folder to clear out.
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It's hard to tell in the photos but the goosebumps look like underextrusion and almost certainly completely unrelated to the larger waves.
I was going to ask if this is a bedslinger but I see it is an ender 3 v2 which is certainly a bedslinger. I think the issue is very likely related to the bed moving. Because the waves change as you move up the part (vibration frequencies change as it gets longer, amount of vibration increases as you get higher as well. So make sure the long axis of the elliptical cross section is aligned with the bed movement - that will make it more stable. Adding some support would help as well but then the outside would be even more ugly after removing support.
That's all I have for theories - these changes, although very visible to the eye, are almost impossible to measure with a micrometer or a laser scanner as they are extremely tiny. Which means very subtle, tiny affects can create these patterns. Such as the stepper motor steps per revolution, also substepping issues of the extruder can create patterns like this. Typically there are 8 or 16 substeps and the way the stepper driver chips work (especially the cheaper ones used on cheap printers) the last step has less power and tends to not move at all so every 8 or 16 substeps the stepper does not move and then on the next substep it moves doubly far. There are hardware solutions for this. This is one of hundreds of very subtle things that can make ever so tiny imperfections like this.
Basically I think this is kind of typical tiny tiny errors (but often very clearly visible) that you see with FDM printing in general. For more practical/functional parts like say a soap dish, these shapes are fine.
Just like the grain in wood can be beautiful to some people, this pattern caused by the printer along with the layer lines can be just as beautiful to people who truly appreciate the beauty of 3d printing. What you may consider tacky or ugly (like say distressed wood) may be fashionable some day in the future.
Sorry to brush your issue aside like that - just giving you another perspective.
I think these issues will be extremely difficult to fix.
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Oh! Try Cura 5.4. There is absolutely no yellow at all when I use your project file. I think there are some bugs in versions of Cura newer than 5.4 which is one of the main reasons I'm still at 5.4. This is only one of the minor bugs we've been seeing.
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I loaded and sliced your project file. It sliced fine for me. I have cura 5.4 so maybe it's something in a newer version? But I don't think so - I think it looks the same as in your screenshot? I just saw top and bottom skin. And walls. The way you described it I expected to see a solid layer occasionally - like an internal shelf inside the part. Do you get that? I did not see that. What version of cura do you have?
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Please post screenshot and more importantly post your project file. In cura do menu "file" "save project" and post that file here.
Usually this happens when there is a problem with the model. The STL files are a list of unordered triangles with a "normal" and the normals are often backwards - they say which side of every triangle is inside (or is plastic) and which side of every triangle is air.
There are tools to fix this. There are 3d modeling programs (not what I would call CAD) that often reverse the normals and the two worst offenders are blender and sketchup. But there are great tools within those programs and lots of articles, videos, techniques to avoid these.
Also if a triangle is missing in the mesh, cura can get confused there also and skin all the way across an opening.
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Hey you tried the oil! yay! Most people don't.
I've never printed on PEI so I can't really help you. You'll have to google around I guess. Or experiment. To get it to stick less, squish less. And maybe remove all the magigoo? Using isopropyl alcohol maybe? I really don't know. Or add some "mold release" which is typically some kind of oil to the bed?
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Very nice. If you design your clip with openScad then it's easy to make your model "customizable" on thingiverse such that people can type in any thickness of the clips they want. But still, this should be helpful to someone as I think you covered all the likely needed sizes, lol.
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Again, let me know when you get stuck.
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tinker has some kind of make or build script that builds every version. I completely forget what to do as it has been years. I'm 90% sure you can't use the arduino IDE. Just read the instructions I link to above.
You can contact tinkerGnome directly but wait until you get stuck. I can also contact him for you if needed. I talk to him on slack almost every day.
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This is a common problem on glass plate UM2 and UM3 printers. The plate is tempered and produced in sheets about 2 meters wide if I remember right and UM gets the glass from the center but the glass is thicker in the middle. Like a mountain range running down the middle of the glass in one axis. It's subtle but you can see it with a metal ruler or straight edge.
Then we level on only 3 points where the 3 screws are. So those 3 points are PERFECT. So the glass is already thinner in the 4 corners and after leveling the front two corners are raised up. This results in a plate that is extra low in the rear two corners. So printing in the rear two corners is almost always too high and you get worse adhesion back there.
One solution is to just not print in those 2 corners. Another is to raise the rear of the glass after leveling is done by just unscrewing the rear screw about 1/2 turn.
I think you can tell Cura to print the first layer lower or thicker or something maybe? Then you could do a per-model-setting possibly? Probably not. You could edit the gcodes a bit to squish the prints in the rear corners a little more.
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I have gotten maybe 100 tangles like that over the years. None in the last 5 years. You learn to grab the end of the filament and never let it out of your grip (death grip) until loaded on the back of the printer. No manufacture ships it with a tangle. Not only is it easy for them not to - if you watch how the filament is wound - there is just no way to add the tangle. It's "user error". It is worse with some filaments than others due to their springyness - they just kind of go "sproing" out of your finger and suddenly the end jumps under another loop and then there is a tangle but you didn't notice. It all looks fine visually unless you unspool it a bit.
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You will very likely lose settings on your printer. It depends how new your firmware is on the um2. The um2 stores some settings in a special area of eeprom which doesn't get written over when you load new firmware. Things like:
material settings for multiple materials (for example for pla it stores things like fan speed, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, nozzle temp, bed temp)
bed leveling value from most recent bed leveling
Size of printer, bed, positions of where to go for nozzle prime, several other 3d positions used before and after printing
This data block has a version number in it. When you install a NEWER version of firmware, it checks the version and knows how to update the older data to the newer locations/format. When you install an OLDER version of firmware it sometimes screws that up (older firmware can't know data format for a future firmware not yet written at the time the older firmware was written).
So when you install older firmware it often either messes things up or it is smart enough to do a factory reset. If it messes things up you have to manually do a factory reset (trivial - it's in the menu). When you do this factory reset all the mentioned values above go back to defaults and it will force you to go through the unboxing, powerup procedure which is to load filament and level the bed.
If you still have old firmware on your um2, older than tinkermarlin firmware, then you won't lose anything.
But maybe write down all those material settings just in case.
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By the way, I've printed ninjaflex (extremely flexible) on a UM2 series. It involves some tricks. One of which is to put a drop of oil on the filament before inserting into the bowden and adding an additional drop every meter or so (about once per hour). I have more explicit instructions on this forum. 90% of people hate the idea of oil going through the nozzle and think it will do something bad like add holes in the print or something but it works perfectly. Perfectly! Trust me. Other things I had to do to get zero underextrusion was to slow down to 10mm/sec (only if you need it absolutely perfect print) and print on the high-side of the recommended temp range. And lots of fan. Also I had to up the flow rate.
Printing Order Of Mutiple Objects
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I think it's "her". I'm pretty sure rachael and slashee are she/her.
Can't you then output it all as a single STL? Would that not help? I guess you already thought of that.
For me the "solution" issue is not so much that it doesn't work for "all at once" but that it's a workaround and only lets you choose the order if you want to print in one direction (left to right, right to left, front to back, back to front). And on top of that it doesn't help so much if you are printing a "grid" of objects as you can only say "row" order. Not part order.
Still, it's pretty damn simple, easy to understand, and even has a visual reminder of which way it will print based on the shadows. It's a pretty cool hack. I think it could help a lot of people.
Hopefully this will all be moot soon!