gr5

Dans 90 % des cas, vous n'avez pas besoin de remplacer le chauffage ou le capteur. Par exemple, le capteur n'est qu'un morceau de titane. Presque indestructible. Au lieu de cela, le problème vient généralement du câblage quelque part. Avec les températures élevées et le mouvement du lit, la soudure peut se fissurer et les fils peuvent se desserrer. Mesurez la résistance du lit et du capteur de température avec les fils déconnectés du bas de l'imprimante. Le lit doit être d'environ 4 à 6 ohms. Le capteur de température doit être d'environ 100 à 120 ohms à température ambiante. Si tout semble bien, stressez un peu le câblage en poussant sur le câblage là où il se fixe au lit. Le problème se situe parfois sous l'imprimante.

Printing PVA is another whole learning curve. Yes, PVA can get water in it and it only takes a few hours on the back of the printer. Certainly a week on the back of the printer and it has completely absorbed water. I don't think this is the problem in your final print but we have to talk about it. It's not ruined - you just have to dry it. When storing PVA I use a 2 gallon (8 liter) zip lock bag for each spool and about 1/2 cup (1/8 liter) of desiccant per bag. Get color changing desiccant (buying a liter of desiccant is quite cheap). Sometimes you can get 2 spools in one bag. The desiccant needs to be recharged when it changes color which for me is once every month or so. I do it in a paper towel lined ceramic bowl and put it in the microwave for a minute or so and then let it sit out and cool for 2 minutes and repeat about 5 times until it stop getting lots of condensation. To dry PVA, unspool enough for the next print (cura shows you this amount in the bottom right corner) and sit that on the heated bed with the spool on top and cover the filament and spool with a towel (or similar). Heat the bed to 55C (if you go over about 75C you will soften the PVA too much and deform the portion touching the bed). Leave it like this for at least 3 hours - I like to do overnight to get much of the still-spooled filament but usually just 4 hours is plenty for the unspooled portion. This is the ordeal with using PVA. Having said all that I don't think your issue is with the PVA this time but perhaps it was in the first photo. Please post your project file - I think we might have to tweak your support settings. The project file will contain your model (your STL) and your machine profile, the profile you chose, and any overrides you changed. Also the position you placed your model and how you scaled it. Do "file" "save project" and post that file here. Certain models need certain tweaks to get the support to work well. PLA usually prints pretty well on top of PVA but not nearly so well the other way around and this is related to the "support horizontal expansion" parameter which helps the PVA reach a path to the glass bed. I want to see your project file before I make any suggestions. Leveling is critical - I haven't used active leveling in so long that I forget if it even does left/right core calibration. I do manual leveling on my UM3 (and active leveling on my S5). When doing manual leveling you need to get the exact same pressure on the calibration card (or use an ordinary sheet of printer paper) for the left and right nozzle. If the left nozzle is tighter when leveling, then printing PVA onto PLA will not squish as much as desired. If the right nozzle is tighter to the paper when leveling, then the PLA will not squish very well onto a lower layer of PVA.

Well it sounds like it's not the printcore and it sounds like you had the problem with both the old and new feeder so I'm a bit stumped. I'd contact Ultimaker technical support. To do that, click the 9 tic-tac-toe dots in the upper right corner of this page and select "support". Then near the top click "submit a request".

Yes. Are you saying you replaced feeder 1 recently and right after that the problems started? If so, this sounds very suspicious. It's easy to assemble the feeder wrong. There is a tension screw that people often mistakenly have sticking out of the feeder. The screw is supposed to be wholly *inside* the feeder. Accessible by a hex driver only. The feeder tension should be at the half way point as shown by the indicator. There are videos and such helping out with assembly of the feeder.

The same gcodes that work through a com port can instead be printed through an SD card (at least that's the usual case - I really don't know MB printers).

I know very little about the replicator2. In most 3d printers you should be setting the steps/mm on the printer somewhere. Sometimes it is a menu option but often it's more complicated. Sometimes you even have to rebuild the firmware. Does the replicator2 use some version of Marlin firmware? If so there are gcodes to set the new steps/mm permanently. You need a way to send gcodes to the printer and get feedback. There is a command to ask the printer it's settings, one to set the steps/mm for any axis, then one to do a permanent save so it will still work the next time you boot. There should be lots of information on the internet somewhere specifically for replicator2's but if it has Marlin then you can probably follow instructions for any printer that has Marlin (back then 99% of printers had Marlin).

Okay, I've been told the feature is gone when you have the MS. So you will have to do your testing by printing something but as soon as you know if it's underextruding or not you can abort the print. Keep track if the problem sticks with the feeder or sticks with the printcore. Once you have isolated the failing component, I have more suggestions. Well if it's the printcore, try a few cold pulls or just throw it away.

See how the "print core 2" screen has a vertical "..." in upper right corner? MOVE command would be in there except that's the wrong screen. For me, without the MS (material station), I select the material and the "..." appears in that upper right area, I click it and MOVE is an option. I suspect you can do it from that screen that shows all the materials and which core they are connected to.

Underextrusion can be tons of things - for example (1) cura settings (try using only default settings for a print to see if the problem goes away), but usually it's the feeder or print core. 2) Oh - and make sure the middle fan is spinning - if it stops spinning you get intermittent underextrusion. 3) So try the other feeder like you suggested 4) Try a different print core as well To test the feeder, I do the MOVE command and see how fast I can extrude. Typically I can get filament to go from the printcore down to the bed in about 10 seconds. For underextruding printers that is often 30 seconds or more. If that fails then it's the feeder or the printcore. This is a much quicker test than doing an entire print. This way you can test both feeders and multiple printcores and often find the problem very quickly.

Isopropyl Alcohol is very inexpensive and easy to find in stores. In the USA it is found next to the bandages (in supermarkets, 7/11s, walmarts, drug stores). Sometimes it is called "rubbing alcohol". In USA it is often colored with green dye. Not only is it good at removing oils/greases, it evaporates rapidly. Soap and water are also good at removing oils of course.

CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION ON UM3 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. Note that your "print speed" may be 40mm/sec but it may be printing infill at 80mm/sec so CHECK ALL SPEEDS. 2) Line Width larger than nozzle. In cura 3.X search in settings for all line widths. If any of them are larger than the nozzle diameter this can cause underextrusion. There are 8 of these in cura 3.2.1. 3) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 4) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 5) Bad core. Try a different core. It could be clogged, or something more complex like the temp sensor in the core. 5a) clogged nozzle - the number one most suspected problem of course. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) is the cure - from the menu do a few cold pulls. The result should be filament that is the exact shape of the interior of the nozzle including the tiny passage to the tip of the nozzle. If it doesn't look like that you need to pull at a colder temperature. You can do it manually instead of through the menu if it's not working right but learn through the menu initially. 95C is roughly the correct "cold" temperature for PLA. Higher temps for other filaments. Simpler cold pull (3dsolex cores only - doesn't work on ultimaker cores because you can't remove the nozzle): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 5b) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 6) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. You want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. You usually want the tension in the center. If the white marker isn't in the center, make sure the adjustment screw actually moves the marker. If not then someone put the feeder back together wrong. 7) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 😎 Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 8b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the wedgebot (link below) helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 9) Extruder mis calibrated. Maybe you changed equipment or a wire fell off. Try commanding the filament to move exactly 100mm and then measureing with a ruler that it moved 100mm within 10% accuracy. If not adjust the steps/mm (this is done by editing a json file on the UM3). 10) Z axis steps/mm. it's easier than you might think to double or half the Z axis movement as there is a jumper on the circuit board that can be added or removed. If the Z axis is moving 2X you will get 50% underextrusion. Your parts will also be 2X as tall. 11) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. Similar to 8b above - use the wedgebot to feel how much friction there is in the bowden. 12) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably insert filament that has the pattern from the feeder and fight the movement by applying 2kg force on both ends at the same time and then seeing how much harder you have to push it on top of 1kg force. UM2 feeders can push with 5kg force. UM3 can push quite a bit more. 5kg is plenty. 13) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. This shouldn't be a problem on the UM3 which has very good quality control but try a different core. 14) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 15) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip. The solution from Ultimaker for the um2 is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. This doesn't seem to be a problem on UM3 even though it's the exact same circuitry but they lowered the current in the firmware. But it's worth considering if air temp is 30C or hotter. It would probably happen only after printing for a while (air heats up slowly under the printer). 16) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the door of the head. You can hear it come on when cores get above 40C. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 17) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm core and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 18) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3). 19) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 20) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 21) Filament tangle - the end of the filament can get tucked under a loop on the spool and this tangle can propagate from then forever to the end of the spool until you fix it. It will cause many many jam ups and slow then halt extrusion. Repeatedly. The fix is to remove the filament from the printer, unroll a few meters and respool and put back on the printer. Never let go of the end of the filament spool until it's in the bowden.

The type of 3d printer that melts plastic through a nozzle doesn't do overhangs very well as you just learned. You can use support structures but they leave a rough surface behind. That's why you rarely see 3d printed balls. You could consider 3d printing a mold that comes apart in 2 halves and use 2 part silicone mix. That comes with it's own learning curve (bubble issues, how to make proper fill tubes, mold release, shore hardness) but you can get great results. Or if you have a dual material printer like an Ultimaker S3/S5/S7 you can use a dissolvable support material or a "breakaway" support material in the second nozzle that will leave a much nicer surface finish when you remove the support.

I'm not positive but I think you can ignore the red region and just fix the multi-color region - one is red/green and the other blue/green. Did you create this yourself in CAD or did someone else create this CAD model. Hopefully you created in which case it should be easy to fix. What software did you use? I'm guessing sketchup or blender? Google the name of your cad software and "how to create manifold objects" in the same search and read what people say or watch a youtube video about how to avoid and fix these issues for your particular cad software. Most cad software won't let you create these kinds of non-physical part errors (infinitely thin planes or holes in a surface which are both impossible in the real world). But blender and sketchup are two that are not designed for designing real things but more meant to design virtual world things only where it's okay to have an infinitely thin wall.

Yes, CC and DD work on the S3 (but not on the much older UM3). Regarding metal expansion pack, all I know is what this says: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337928794

Did you restart cura after you installed them? That's a mandatory step.

Überprüfen Sie den Frontlüfter. Nicht die seitlichen Lüfter, sondern der vordere Lüfter am Druckkopf. Es kann durch dünne Filamentstränge verklemmen und Ihr Symptom hört sich genau nach einem Problem mit dem Frontlüfter an.

Here you go. If you don't know how to take out the knob it's very tricky. That's the only tricky part (taking out the knob). This video shows the whole procedure though:

I'd start with google. The basic steps are to export your model as an STL file, then read the STL file into Cura and slice it. youtube should be able to show you how to do those steps (export model as STL in archicad, and then how to slice a model in cura). If you have an Ultimaker printer then I think that Ultimaker has some courses.

The print in the upper photo looks quite good. That's the typical quality I see on most 3d printers. The print in the lower photo looks bad. It is severely underextruded. The gaps between the filament are more than the amount of filament so you have less than 50% extrusion. maybe 30% extrusion. So 70% less than nominal. This is severe. If you print 3X slower it will help a bit. I don't know what is causing your underextrusion as there are literally hundreds of causes: feeder issues, filament jammed somewhere, semi clogged nozzle, printing too cold, printing too fast, layer height too thick, bad cooling fan above heat break. That's an extremely short list of common causes. People who know your patricular printer will be able to help you much more than I as I've never touched an ender 3 of any type.

Excellent photo - you don't have the silicone thing installed quite right. Here's a video explaining how it should be installed and how to install it. It's harder to do than shown in the video. And easy to tear. Fortunately they cost almost nothing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IX-X1yPIBg

This is normal. This machine can print two different filaments. One on the left and one on the right. The problem is that the inactive print core always leaks a tiny bit. About 1mm of filament. So the printer keeps the inactive print core about 2mm above the active print core. When the right print core is in use, the right nozzle is lower. Only the right print core moves up and down. You can do this with power off by sliding the switch above the right print core towards or away from you. It's okay to leave the print head in either state as when it powers up it will move the right core to a known state.

You can go horizontal like this for one nozzle width as well. That's typically .4mm. And you can "bridge" across long gaps. google "3d printing bridging". The bigger overhang definitely needs supports. As you have discovered. The support only has to support the outer edge of the rim as it can bridge in between (refer to "bridge" earlier in this post). Usually I can design the part to have 45 degree angles under the overhangs. Not always. Sometimes I flip the part over to a new orientation. Sometimes I divide the part into 2 parts and screw or glue them together.

Find a metal needle .25-.35mm in diameter. Maybe from a metal brush where you clip off one piece. While at 200C, poke that in and out of the tip of the nozzle dozens of times scraping the inside and pushing gunk up into the nozzle. Then cool to around 90C and pull that out as your next cold pull to get any gunk out. After you can see through the entire core and out through the nozzle hole, take a small piece of filament and stick it down into the print core while cold and not in the printer. Feel for extra high resistance in the path.

No need to print an entire print if it fails the "12 second test". If it were me I would take apart the whole print core but I have lots of spares. So maybe that's not good to do. Can you borrow a core from someone with a working printer? The cores in the S3/S5/S7 and UM3 are all the same. Can you order a print core? They are about 120 euros/dollars I think. Actually I would do some cold pulls manually (not through menu system). I would remove the bowden from the print head and insert the filament directly in the head. Google around about the procedure (same procedure for any printer type). I would put the head in the corner so as less likely to bend the rods that go through the print head. I would do at least 5 cold pulls each at a colder and colder temp until you can't pull it out. At least 3 clean cold pulls at the coldest temp where you can just barely pull it out. I would check how the filament gets to the feeder to make sure it doesn't have extra friction. If you do take apart the core here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0 Right now this printer is not functioning properly. I would consider it "broken" even though it somewhat works. There is a teflon part inside the print core. It may need to be replaced. Are you the person who said there was only like 300 meters and 300 hours on the print core? That's nothing if that was you - it should be like new if that's true. I'm a little stumped right now but it's got to be the "hot end" or the "cold end" (feeder) and it sounds like the feeder is okay but it's failing the 12 second test so something is seriously wrong.

This thread is very confusing because Cura has so many damn features. Yes, some settings are in the comments at the end of the gcode. This is not the best source of settings but it may help out sometimes. Then there are project files and there are profiles. Profiles are a set of settings. To make things worse there are machine profiles, material profiles, and profiles that inherit from other profiles. And then there is "the" profile. You can create your own profiles, save them, load them, change settings on top of them without saving the changes and so on. Some people love profiles. I hate profiles and love project files mostly because historically profiles had more bugs. It's like two different religions. You can use either profiles or project files for the same purposes. We really don't need both features but they each have their minor advantages. SO TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION Use project files for now. Everytime I save a gcode file I immediately also save the project file. The project file contains: the STL the profile machine profile material profile overridden settings And those are all separated out so I can see what settings you overrode AND I can see what printer you are slicing for (the machine profile) AND I can see if you messed around with the machine profile or material profile. ALSO if you rotated your STL, resized it, if you printed multiple objects... it's all visible in the project file. So if you have a cura bug, I can load your project file and should get the exact same situation as what you see in your cura (if same version of cura). So what you should do in above example 1) load STL, slice, save as gcode, save as project file P1 2) change profile, change settings, delete STL 3) load P1, STL will be loaded, back to original profile, back to original settings overrides 4) delete model by clicking it and hitting delete key, load second STL. All settings preserved from P1.