gr5

Well it's been 14 hours and no response so I guess I suggest you go here and post your issue, and include the full log file: https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues You'll get a bit better response there typically. Although, let me try one more thing. Maybe @MariMakes has some suggestions of things to try. But I suspect it was your python install. I know you said you uninstalled python but this is still the most likely issue in my mind.

I don't know but I strongly suspect all print jobs are stored for a while on the S5's "hard drive" (it's a solid state drive). It can store hundreds of print jobs. So I would ssh into the printer. Are you good with ssh and linux? If not do you know someone who is? So put the printer in "developer mode" (it's an option in the menus somewhere). Once you've done that the ip address of the printer will appear. ssh to that address with username/password root/ultimaker. I'd then do a "df" to find the large, mostly empty drive. The operating system and firmware are on one partition, there is a tiny boot partition, and then the biggest partition is called "user" or something like that. There should be very little there - just a handful of files. But also possibly material profiles and print jobs. I could be wrong about all this but I strongly suspect your file is there. Once you find the file you can exit the printer and use scp to copy the file to your own computer.

@Cuq - to be clear, are you saying that if you click "drop down model" then it works fine?

Are you really printing ABS on a kobra max? I don't know if it's possible: https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/1328dvt/anycubic_kobra_max_issue_with_abs/

Or you can post the gcode here. But if you do that please also post the project file ("file" "save project as").

So in the screenshot above you have the gcode flavor set to "ultimaker". You can change that to "marlin" and then suddenly start and end gcodes should appear that you can edit. The cool thing about UM2 series printers is it stores a bunch of things on the printer (not in cura) including: bed temp, nozzle temp, retraction distance and speed, filament diameter It's probably rarely used but I have printed the exact same gcode in pla and then petg by just changing the material on the printer. So it's kind of cool. But you can disable all this by doing the above change I mentioned and now you can set all these things in cura settings (like temperature) and also now you will see the priming code and such. And you can edit it. You can also have a mix where some jobs are "ultimaker" mode and some are not. The printer itself knows the difference by the comments in the header.

There are many possible csauses of underextrusion. Most of them are in the print core (but not all!). One quick fix is to just print 3X slower. Also make all the print speeds the same (typically you set the "speed" and this affects about 7 other speeds like infill and if you are doing strength tests and want solid infill then you should really print all at the same speeds - I think if you do engineering profiles it also does everything at the same speed - not certain). However the speeds in the profiles were chosen carefully and it should be able to handle the default profile speeds as long as you don't mess with layer height and temperature in a profile. So another quick fix is to swap out the print core. They are considered "cheap" as they are cheaper than filament (if you for example get a new one every 5 spools of filament). Every S3 should come with two AA 0.4 cores. Did you try swapping? Did you try duncan's suggestion of cleaning the core? There is a process explained in the maintenance menu (cold pull). The filament tends to caramelize into a brown or black crud on the inside of the nozzle. It tends to be a pretty thin layer that reduces the nozzle diameter. Or you can get chunks that partially clog the nozzle. Cold pulls fix the chunks. metal needles fix the layer blockage. You can check in the menu how many meters of filament and how many hours have passed through a given print core. Can you post that number here? One quick test is to use the MOVE menu (start with middle menu on left and then top left icon and then "..." icon). play with how many times you hit the down arrow per second and you should be able to get the filament from the nozzle to the bed in a little under 10 seconds. Let us know how long that takes for you. This can save the time of doing a print to know if you've fixed the issue or not.

I don't think you can make it default "on" for some printers which need it (like non-bowden printers) but default it "off" for other's that don't need it. That's my guess. Looks like ahoeben is about to answer so I may be deleting this answer in a minute, lol.

MacNobes - this part of the forum is english only.

You should email Creality and have them add the NEO to the list! Seriously. I get pretty annoyed that Creality doesn't update Cura promptly and instead they really drag their feet. In fact I suspect that most of those in the list are done by selfless users of the printer and not Creality itself. I really don't know. But anyone can create and add a printer and the Cura team will include it in the next release (which are frequent). No charge. No problem. Anyway, for now you probably want to use one of the other's. @Slashee_the_Cow or @GregValiant might know which and if you have to customize anything.

Are you using the engineering profiles? I have no idea if this is related but engineering profiles are meant to be extra accurate but not be as "pretty". So z seams prominence would not be a high priority in those profiles. I'm probably way off base but just checking.

What is the material "break temperature" for "generic pla"?

I really don't know. I don't have a material station and my firmware on my S5 is several years old. I just know that my print cores don't cool as much. 60C is most likely the correct temperature. This is basically a "cold pull". Google it if you aren't familiar (add "3d printer" to the search). It could be that it needs to be slightly warmer for you for some reason. Maybe your silicone nozzle protector isn't keeping the nozzle warm enough because it is falling apart. Or maybe you have a weak feeder or higher resistance in your bowden due to wear. Or windier, colder environment. If it were me, I'd be curious about the 60C and play with it. Somehow I assume you need to get the above profile to copy over to the printer. So you have to basically update this material profile, then somehow delete it off the S5, then sync up the material profiles (last step is the easiest). Actually I would check what that temp is for "generic PLA" and if the temp is higher I'd tell cura I have "generic pla". I'd probably rip out the RFID tag from the spool so the printer is fooled more easily although I think you can manually override that even if it disagrees with the RFID tag on the spool. But I would never have bought the material station in the first place. It's just one more level of automation keeping me from controlling things on my printer. Keeping me from feeling the tension or being able to do manual loads and unloads of the filament where I can feel resistance and potential issues every time I change the filament; where I can feel how hard I need to push before filament comes out of the nozzle nicely to see if my nozzle is partially clogged. One more potential for things breaking or clogging. So maybe I'm not the best person to talk to about this. 😞

You don't have to download them from github. You can use the "marketplace" button in cura. But you may have to log out first because if your account email matches a company that is paying for enterprise (I'm not sure if that's the right name) cura then this locks down some plugins. But just log out first. Or log in using a different account with a different email not associated with your company.

Perhaps @nallath or @ahoeben can suggest something. Or try smartavionics who has built his own version of Cura many times over here: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/discussions (he doesn't post on this forum anymore so try his github account where he is more active).

60C seems wrong. That seems too cold. Are we talking about PLA in all 3 places? (pla in the printer, printer *knows* it's pla, cura knows it's pla)? I could be wrong. Maybe 60C is correct but that seems awfully cold. My S5 definitely does not cool that much. It cools for maybe 30 seconds only before retracting. I could be completely wrong about teflon/Ultimaker issues. I know it was once a problem with some 3dsolex cores. Ultimaker tends to consider the cores as "consumables". They are cheaper than filament as long as you get a new core no more often than every 5 or more spools. Of course the CC cores are much more expensive.

There is a way to switch the Olimex to the other type but it's not trivial. You might want to ask ultimaker support for help in doing this or you could ship it back.

Good idea CarloK2. I moved this to a new topic.

It's almost certainly a slicer setting - specifically you probably have "spiralize" enabled. Read about that feature. Decide if you want it or not.

Short answer - it's 98% chance there is a problem with your model. Many cad software are more meant for creating 3d gaming or immersive environments and don't worry about physical reality so the objects are not solid. Cura either gets confused by too many or too few triangles/surfaces or sometimes makes the wrong (arbitrary) choice. We call it "manifold" when a 3d model is solid. The most common issues come from blender or sketchup which are designed for graphics/videos but not solids. Both of these packages have fantastic plugins and features to make your model solid. What cad are you using? Cura also has a plugin that can test your model. Please post your STL file and someone might analyze it for you. But you probably have extra walls or missing walls somewhere. Or the "normals" are backwards (again - common in Blender and Sketchup but rarely happens with normal CAD that creates manifold parts). For the Cura plugin that can give you hints as to the issue (shows bad normals or missing/extra walls in color), I'm not home but click on "Marketplace" button and make sure you aren't on materials tab and look for "mesh tools". I think it can also fix the normals for you (the plugin).

I agree! When people google "bad layer abs", they should get the answer they need with the latest information and not have to start a new topic and wait for an answer. Especially if the 6 year old topic has useful information.

I think if you create your own private account (free) that doesn't have enterprise (is that what it's called?), you can log into that, install what you want, then log back into the enterprise account. I assume you have to use a different email for this.

If it prints fine the whole print but often won't come out at the end... Or if it won't start printing right after a successful print... Then the problem is typically with the teflon inside the printcore. Both Ultimaker and 3dsolex can potentially have this issue. More generally, the problem is that the inside diameter of the print core immediately above the heatsink may be larger or smaller in diameter (usually larger) and the filament softens enough to at least partially fill the larger diameter space and after it cools it won't go up and it won't go down. If you heat the core long enough it usually softens enough to start feeding again. More specifically the most common issue is that the teflon is either cut a tiny bit too short so there is an air gap between the teflon and the heat break and you can get filament sticking far far into that gap. Or the teflon inner diameter is .2mm larger in diameter than an earlier batch that was perfect. If I'm right then some cores should be fine and other's get stuck more often. If you have a piece of filament that is stuck in a core and then slice filament with a hot knife just above the "trumpet" and disassemble the core you can use that piece of filament as a measuring device to see where the issues are - if it passes nicely through the teflon but gets stuck in the "trumpet" then you know and one fix might be to drill out the trumpets and the upper aluminum heat sink. Which can be significantly larger. Until it passes through. OR if the problem is that the teflon isn't long enough you could add a tiny slice of a spare piece of teflon "donut" to the top end to keep the teflon in place. Anyway, if it was me, I'd go for this last option in above paragraph (take apart and fix all the cores). I'm not sure how to modify the "temperature when to retract the filament at end of print" temp. This is a pretty important feature because it keeps the filament from creating a very thin long string which is okay if you print again right away but it can get trapped in the bowden and cause all kinds of clogging issues if you don't let the filament cool a bit before retracting.

But that only affects the bottom of the part, right? He included a picture of the top for no reason then?

So I'm not sure what the issue is with your part. It looks reasonable to me. Glossy black shows up the tiniest of defects because of the large contrast between a reflected white light and the blackness of non reflected light in the black filament. So there is a large possibility that whatever defect you are seeing exists in the other colors but is much more difficult to see. Perhaps you are new to 3d printing and have overly high expectations. Perhaps your issue can be easily fixed. But I don't know what the issue is. I'm trying not to be condescending - I simply don't know exactly what your issue is. Perhaps it's the staircase steps thing? That is controlled by the slope of your part and by the thickness of the layer slicing. Now I think it looks like you have a brim? Did you try disabling the brim or try removing the brim to see how the part looks without the brim? Is your issue with the part the brim itself? You really need to be specific as I don't really see a serious defect. Because I don't know what to look for.