nick-foley

What about something less electrically conductive like Molybdenum Disulfide then?

Has anyone tried using a dry lube like graphite powder? Does that work with an oil-impregnated bushing?

That holder looks awesome. Is it SLA'd? We printed a PLA one today in anticipation of our E3D hotend. Made a few minor changes to use plastite screws for assembly and to allow both halves to be printed separately without support and then screwed together. I can't wait to get the hotend and set this up, it's a beautiful combo and we're excited to see how it performs.

I think it is just overcooked PLA ooze, but I'm not 100% sure. Something similar was happening to my ultimaker (and to get consistent prints, I had to keep raising the extrusion rate with each print, eventually reaching the point of stalled/ground filament). ...I then broke the brass tube trying to remove it from the PEEK. Even hot, it can be very challenging to remove because there is not a strong place to grab without crushing the tube. They should really make the round flange of the brass tube have two flats, so that you can grab it with a wrench without having to transfer force through the thermal break. (Actually, forget that - they should just redesign the entire hot end with less parts and fewer points of failure.) I ended up fixing my machine with a Makergear tube and nozzle. Prints seem to be good so far but I don't think I've solved the problem entirely yet. If I were to do it again, the first thing I would do is try a new nozzle without messing with the rest of the setup. I don't know if it was the cause of the problem, but it's a simple, easy test that allows you to eliminate one variable from the equation for the rest of your troubleshooting.

Unfortunately, no. Due to the video driver swapping all of my system restore points where overwritten by garbage. Actually, even attempting it just almost wrecked my computer as it left me with some hybrid driver install that wouldn't render windows properly. Maybe it's time to pack my things and start prepping for the fresh reinstall of Windows entirely... Update - bit the bullet, reinstalled windows. Happily using Cura with proper previews again...

So, I just scoured heaven and earth to purge my system of old video drivers and install various new drivers - official releases, beta versions, and homebrew hacked ones. Nothing changed the error message Cura is giving me. I don't know where else to look. Is there possibly an Opengl related registry flag that might have been set incorrectly and then not reset upon uninstall of Trueview?

Yeah, I have a decent laptop which was running Cura fine until a few days ago when this started. I tried reinstalling my graphics drivers to no effect. I guess it would be more correct to say that TrueView updated DirectX, but I'm not exactly sure what the version it used was. Using the most recent DirectX installer from Microsoft says that my DirectX install is up to date.

Slightly different error in latest beta version of Cura:

Has anyone solved this problem? I installed Autdesk DWG Trueview yesterday, which brought along a DirectX 11 install with it, and Cura is now broken. I tried changing the buffer size in the line Daid suggested in OpenglGUI.py, but nothing changed. Also tried cleanly uninstalling and then reinstalling latest graphics drivers. No difference.

Can anyone comment on the tolerances of these? I'm already somewhat disappointed that I have to replace my stock pulleys... I'd hate to purchase another set only to find that my new pulleys also started out in life as flywheels for pager motors.

Edited my previous post to clarify, and prevent this thread from veering even further off course. And to bring it back: My pulleys still suck. I don't know if mine are particularly eccentric, and I don't have a good way of measuring the force it takes to move across an axis, but I wouldn't be surprised if the necessary force periodically nearly doubled when moving by hand. I want to purchase another set, but having missed the improved MXL batch coming from Markus, I'm looking for other options, and thinking about moving to GT2 in the process. Has anyone purchased the chinese GT2 pulleys from ROBOTDIGG?: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/9/GT2-pulley-20-tooth-5mm-bore-for-6mm-gt2-belt The 5mm bore ones seem appropriate, but don't have enough meat to open to 8mm... and the 8mm have an MOQ of 200qty. I'm sure they could be persuaded to take a lower quantity order... but are they a big enough improvement over the Adafruit version?

All I'm saying is that even though a dead center isn't perfect on a lathe, it is certainly more effective than just slamming a wooden block (or a flat piece of metal) against the end of your workpiece - which is equivalent to the stock endcap solution of an Ultimaker (or the flat end of the machine screw in the printed upgrade variant). Edited to add... (so this thread doesn't get even further off topic with more posts...) ... surely this isn't a necessary upgrade - but the argument for it not being an improvement seems pretty thin.

I'm not convinced by this argument - 1) though not as great as a live center, a dead center works fine on a lathe for most operations and I see no reason it wouldn't improve things here, and 2) If the bearings are adequately aligned by the laser-cut frame, I see no reason that the endcaps couldn't also be adequately aligned, particularly if they are a 3D printed part with a tighter fit than the laser cut caps. This is definitely something I would do if I had easy access to a metal lathe. It's unclear if Daniel meant drilling an actual hole, or just an V- shaped indentation with the tip of a drillbit. Obviously a full hole won't work so well, but I think a V-profiled cut with an angle wider than the bevel angle of the pointed cap screw could only be an improvement.

I wonder if a stronger design from a cost+effort perspective might be to ditch the titanium for SS and instead just add a small fan to the heatsink? I'd be interested to see that simulation.

Great, just what I wanted to know. Seems relatively easy. Can't wait to receive it and get it going.

Argh, so bummed I missed this order! Every time I hear the vvvvVVVVVvvvvVVVVVVvvvvvVVVVVVvvvvvvVVVVVvvvv of my Ultimaker I think about these. Very curious to hear how these things improve operation. It would be amazing to get a before/after print comparison photo.

Not exactly the replies I was expecting... (In response to now-removed spam about bridesmaid's dresses) Anyway... today I broke the brass tube on my stock v2 nozzle while trying to tighten it up to eliminate some minor ooze. Ultimaker is also out of stock on these parts at the moment, so I'm placing the order for the E3D hotend upgrade. Looking forward to getting this thing going on my machine! About the fan/thermocouple/heater wiring - are these plug and play with the original v2 wiring? Should I expect to reuse the heater and the thermocouple? Should I splice the active cooling fan with the material cooling fan and run them together?

This is slightly off topic (or back to the original topic of this thread), but has anyone tried and successfully implemented the GT2 belts and pulleys from SDS/SI? This seems to be the correct part for the 8mm bore pulleys: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206Z51M036DF0608 My concern is that the overall diameter of the pulley is too large to fit without colliding with the other pulleys, since it appears very close with the original design.

This is an awesome head design. I love the simplicity. It looks like it might be lower weight than the original UM head as well? I don't have an overwhelming need to switch from printing in PLA at the moment... but I might move to the E3D hot end just to use this new head design.

Yes, please let me know if you do a second batch. Thanks anyway!

Are there any left to be added to the US shipment? I can pay immediately if so. Thanks!