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Nicolinux

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Everything posted by Nicolinux

  1. @esteban-pacheco Well it did improve thing greatly and adding a ferrite core is very easy and quick. It won't hurt so I'd say - try it.
  2. Ok, I tested further. First I noticed that the first layer looks kinda overextruded. Didn't see this in a long time maybe due to the ever present under extrusion. Then I started taking ferrite cores off to see if it influences the problem: Now I am back to only one ferrite core for the feeder motor. I think it was to early to call it solved, but this is one of the most best leads so far because it did influence the print quality greatly. @Dim3nsioneer I have printed one square with the latest Cura beta with a concentric pattern (this is not infill).
  3. Good news everyone, The problem might be solved. @neotko had the killer tip to add a ferrite core to the feeder motor cable. I did it and the result is marvelous: Before adding the ferrite core I installed the 2.85mm Olsson Block and did a test print. The surface was awful and there was under extrusion on the outside walls too. After adding the ferrite core the next print looks like the image above. Having ordered too many of those thingies I added them everywhere Printed again. This time it doesn't look as good as before. I don't fully understand how the ferrite cores work but can too many of them be bad too?
  4. Speaking of searching - I regularly forget the link for one of my most important posts. And now even when I search for the _exact_ title - the search is useless and won't find it... "Top Layers not touching - UM2" https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2 Or it may find it but since it returns 229 pages, I have clicked only through the first ten or so (and the last few).
  5. Die "Advanced" Werte sind in Ordnung. Gerade bei der Standardtemperatur von 210° sind deine Werte etwas zu aggressiv. 80mm/s ist zu viel dafür. @stoque: Ich würde etwas heisser drucken - 220° oder 225° und layer height vielleicht auf 0.1 wenn du das nicht so sehr fein benötigst. Aber ich sehe dass das Model vermutlich Probleme Hat. Hast du die rote Farbe in Cura eingestellt für Modelle? Ansonsten ist das so weit ich weiss ein Indikator dafür dass das Model nicht in Ordnung ist. Öffne es mal mit Netfabb und schau mal ob es Fehler meldet. Wenn ja, oben rechts auf das rote Kreuzu klicken und die Fehler so weit es geht reparieren lassen. http://www.netfabb.de/basic.php
  6. Hi, ok, der Drucker kommt anscheinend nicht mit dem Filament hinterher. Mit welchen Einstellungen hast du gedruckt? Zeig mal ein Screenshot von Cura und nenne bitte auch die Temperatur die eingestellt ist. Auch wichtig zu wissen wäre - welches Material ist das? PLA oder ABS? Wenn du mit den absoluten Standardeinstellungen gedruckt hast, dann könnte es daran liegen dass sich das Filament verfangen hat und nicht richtig bewegt werden kann. Schau dir mal den "Feeder" an - auf der Rückseite des Druckers. Sollten im schwarzen Kasten lauter Filamentreste hängen, dann diese erstmal entfernen und erneut probieren. Ansonten könnte es auch sein dass die Düse verstopft ist. Diese kannst du relativ leicht reinigen (Stichwort: Atomic Method). Wenn du einen Smartphone hast, dann schau dir mal die Ultimaker App an. Dort wird das beschrieben. Das ist praktisch denn so kannst du die Anleitung gleich mit zum Drucker nehmen und brauchst keinen Rechner in der Nähe.
  7. Ok, gut. Das war die Erfahrung eines Users. Darauf würde ich mich nicht einzig verlassen. Ich habe mit dem Olsson Block schon weit über 50mm/s gedruckt - das geht auch. Und wenn es wirklich eilig ist und die Qualität nicht sooo wichtig, dann packt es auch 100mm/s (bei entsprechender hoher Temperatur natürlich).
  8. Well there is always a tradeoff between hackability and ease of use. If you have the time to tinker with the UMO that's great, but others don't so they are ready to give up some freedom for the sake of moving on and geting things done. The insane amounts of time I pured into my Linux desktop (at the time I used Slackware) - I will never be able to convince myself to do it again. Because it was just for fun and didn't yeld anything useful. Now that time is a premium resource I'd rather use a printer that has a little less features but can reliably do what I ask for. The skill (or magic) for Ultimaker would be to create something that is powerful enough to please both ends of the spectrum - without compromising the core performance of the printer. I don't say that what you do is bad - far from it. But if you had little time and still needed strong parts printed at high temps - what would you do? You would buy a printer that's much more expensive, one that already does what you are looking for. So here again, you'd trade off hackability for time (because as stupid as it sounds - with money you can buy "time" that you don't need to spend on modding a printer).
  9. Dann muss das Problem woanders liegen. Der Weg des Filamentes fängt ja beim Feeder an, geht über den Bowden und endet in der Nozzle. Irgendwo dazwischen ist der Wiederstand so hoch dass der Stepper nicht mehr antreiben kann. Ich habe ein ähnliches Problem welches sich darin auswirkt dass die Oberfläche nicht glatt ist. Das kommt vermutlich auch von under extrusion - aber in einer leichteren Form: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2?page=19
  10. Ok, I got a bit desperate here. No matter what I tried, there was constant under extrusion. This gap between the PTFE coupler and the nozzle is the culprit (I think). (highlighted in red) When I do an atomic pull, the filament tip looks weird too. Could it coincide with the gap? I have swapped the Olsson Block with the 1.75 version that I have here. The same .gcode file printed with the very same settings looks perfect... WTF? (I had to play with the colors a bit in order to make the "no gaps" visible...)
  11. Wo hast du das mit dem Olsson Block gelesen? Würde mich auch interessieren weil ich noch Probleme mit under extrusion habe.
  12. Alright, I understand the problem. Will redo the test. Speaking of the feeder - I do sense a slight hint of bad vibes around the pleasing everyone issue. You need to keep in mind that you still made the best feeder for the UM2. Success produces headaches at times...
  13. Ok, I have tested the extruder accuracy. Took the bowden from the head and used PrintRun (also known as Pronterface) to extrude manually. Don't forget M302 to allow for cold extrude. And there is a bug on the Mac version where you have to enter values with commas "10,0" for 10 mm _and_ press enter twice after entering the value... I set it to extrude 50mm and measured 50.7mm and 50.4mm. There is a little slack through the bowden tube so it is not entierly possible to measure very accurately. But still, this value tells me that there is at least enough material extruded. If it were to be less than 50mm then I'd think about this as a cause for under extrusion.
  14. I wouldn't dismiss something just out of principle because that's silly. I have used Linux, Windows and Mac OS X for many years and concluded that the Mac is the operating system with the least amount of suck in terms of productivity together with hackability. That's why I am using Linux on servers, Windows for games and the Mac for work. Yes it is more expensive but you have to ask why. The insane amount of Research & Development Apple puts into every product is (presumably) unmatched by any other. That's why their stuff is expensive. And of course, they are no angels and want to earn as much money as possible. But I'd wager the statement that _any_ other vendor would be more than happy to be at least a little like Apple. And I don't see anything wrong with making the best products ever and make money with it. Sure there are downsides. Closed source, secrecy and arrogance. I guess the later two are unavoidable when you grow so big but the closed ecosystem is due to the braindead patent system and the fierce competition that they have to put up with. I'd be happy if Ultimaker really becomes the Apple of consumer 3d printers. They don't need to make each of Apple's mistakes and only take the good things from it. But if they make the best consumer 3d printer with super stable performance and lots of ingenious convenience featues - I don't mind the higher price at all.
  15. Hey Sander, is that you in the back?
  16. It happened a few hours ago but maybe it is a platform thing (Chrome on Mac OS X). As for the album - just do the most convenient thing for most people. I suspect most have just one album and if you could spare them two clicks, then it is worth it. But you have the data there. Might be interesting to query the db and see how many people have more than album.
  17. So it turns out Apple uses at least an UM2 Extended for their "INPUT test lab". I've read it here: http://www.3ders.org//articles/20151014-apple-uses-3d-printers-in-top-secret-input-lab-to-test-new-product-prototypes.html @SandervG: I'd "marketing" the heck out of this news
  18. Oh and a bug too. Please increase the session timeout. And at least visualise it on the top right where the user is displayed. When the session times out and a user posts something, the buttons (adding pictures, posting) just won't work - there is no error message. And if you reload the page and didn't copy your text, you lose your post.
  19. If it has not been requested before - please auto-select the album if the user has only one (when uploading pics).
  20. Nice @shurik, so there is some improvement. And good thing you mentioned the feeder. I looked at mine and found something odd too. In its nominal state it looks like this: I noticed sometimes the filament is not centered on the bearing and moves to the front. Usually this would make the filament snap off the bearing but I have printed a modified yoke that has a small guard to prevent it. But this guard increases the friction and may lead to under extrusion too. Besides the yoke is quite beat up. I think I should replace it. Printed the extrusion test. The first one failed at 10mm^3/s which is ok. But for the second one, I remember it failed later on.
  21. It is the original spring but there have been some revisions over time. I remember some original feeders required the user to have the tension set a few notches up, where as with my spring, I had to set it to the most relaxed tension. The compressed spring is 9mm long. Since I have added a few shims, it is a total of 12mm between the feeder body and the screw cap.
  22. Meanwhile I tried something else. I tightened the spring on Robert's feeder by 4 turns. Looks slightly better: Then another 4 turns. It looks _way_ better: And another additional 4 turns - looks worse: Well I'd say: Good thing this is kinda like a palindrome and works both ways :
  23. @SandervG: I think it is partially a software and hardware issue (the board mostly).
  24. I think we have a very different definition of a good top surface... The test object hast six layers for the bottom/top surface. It should be enough.
  25. They shouldn't have used your printer for the demo (sorry, I have to make fun of this issue or else it would drive me mad).
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