Nicolinux

Der Grund warum der PTFE Coupler schon aufgegeben hat, liegt an der mangelden Kühlung durch den 3. Lüfter. Dieser sollte immer laufen ansonsten überhitzt das Teflon-Teil und verformt sich. Der 3. Lüfter war bei mir sehr laut und ich habe es durch einen leistungsfähigeren ersetzt. Bei Interesse suche ich den Link heraus.

Ok, cool. Thanks for the pointer Peggy. I guess the balancing part is hard to get right but we have rapid prototyping machines so it shouldn't be a problem I tought about building this project and add it as decoration to my appartment. Coupled with an Arduino board and a movement sensor, it should lift whenever somebody enters the room. I wouldn't chose a skull though, but rather something nicer.

Hi, I saw this cool installation and thought about building it. Any ideas about its viability? I am not sure if it works at all. How did they ballance the skull so it doesn't fall off? http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/10/12/floating-skulls-gravity-time-3d-printing

Daid, will this make it into the next Cura update?

I am noticing the same. Tried with several UM2s and the print quality seems to be worse. Which firmware version do you use?

Have you inspected the print in layer mode in Cura? With the latest version I do see lots of needless retractions and single extrusions that will increase print time considerably.

Ok, then I'd say it is a hardware problem. Either a connection problem like Personal Drones suggested (maybe a wire got loose somewhere) or the board just broke. You could take off the board cover at the bottom and inspect it for obvious problems.

Wow, that's so tidy and full of nice prints!

Ok, seltsam. Könnte aber auch auf ein Problem mit der Firmware hindeuten. Vielleicht wurde es nicht richtig geflashed.

Hi, Wenn die Verbindung vom Rechner aus stabil ist, dann könnte es sein dass das Kabel vom Ulticontroller zum Board entweder beschädigt ist oder einen Wackelkontakt hat. Wie lang war der längste Druck vom Rechner aus?

Poste doch mal die .stl Dateien hier sofern es aus Datenschutz Gründen das möglich ist. Dann können wir schauen woran das liegt.

Hi, I've just stumbled over a post by a user where the bed leveling wizzard could have been missunderstood. The on-screen instructions ask to rotate the wheel until the nozzle is 1 milimeter away from the bed. However, on the next screen it asks to use a piece of paper which some users could understand as to search for a thick piece of cardboard that matches the 1 milimeter. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/758-algum-brasileiro/?p=101891 What do you think? Is is missleading?

Ok, that's right. But then it asks you to take a piece of paper which is usually thinner than that. But good point. I think the on-screen instructions are not clear. I will forward this to the Ultimaker team.

Hey, I think the printer asks for 0.1mm not 1mm And about the pushing - I just noticed that when I touch the tumb-screw and drag the paper at the same time, there is a noticeable drag where there is almost none if I let go of the thumb-screw.

Hi, just a little note (I've watched your video). When you level the bed, don't use such thick paper. Usually normal printer paper is enough. And also don't push with your fingers on the bed while moving the paper because you would change the pressure and get a wrong leveling. Just grab the paper on a corner and slide it between nozzle bed and check the resistance. Also don't move the paper while turning the thumb-screw because this also pushes on the bed and you'd mess up leveling. Just move the paper, turn the thumb-screw, move the paper again and so on. Good luck.

Yes, I will print the gcode but I wanted to go "Ultiquality" on it

It did happen again :/ No nut.stl included. I will contact my admin.

Is it water tight? My spiralize objects sliced with Cura have tight outer shells but the bottom looks like a sieve.

Hi, eine Idee wäre es noch die Boardabdeckung unten abzumachen und zu schauen ob das Kabel vom Z-Endschalter beschädigt ist oder nicht fest steckt.

As usual, thanks for the great insight Simon. Wait a second. What if the stupid bowden tube is too narrow? Maybe manufacturing tollerance, bad batch - who knows?

Sadly there is no generic solution. For me this problem comes and goes. I haven't been able to determine the cause. Today I printed a flat object with woodFill and the problem was quite visible. A few days ago I printed an (albeit smaller) object and the surface was perfect. You can use the "TweakAtZ" plugin in order to change the fan speed at a certain height. Switch to the expert view in Cura and access the plugin in the "Plugins" tab (top left). And another remark: Now that I re-read sputnik's answer I can at least say that the feeder plays a role here. A week ago I changed Robert's feeder to an updated design. After that I had the problem where the filament would slip off the ball bearing (towards the back of the printer). Not only that but I have observed a degradation in print quality. I exchanged the "yoke" part with another design that keeps the filament in place but the print quality didn't change and I _think_ I saw the "top layers not touching" problem appear more often since then. So maybe that's the cause. Feeder doesn't move the filament correctly leading to some kind of underextrusion. A few posts ago gr5 speculated that it is a general underextrusion problem but I stated that the cylinder test prints fine (which otherwise would indicate an underextrusion problem).

...and sewing

Hey guys, just a little update with the replacement fan. I have this one (from Europe) - MC25060V2-000U-A99 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC25060V2-000U-A99/259-1573-ND/2757803 And changed the PTFE coupler a few weeks ago. I did only moderate printing and the coupler is done for. The cylinder test failed at around 5mm^3/s. Then I changed the coupler again a few days ago (bought a few spare ones before - the glass reinforced ones) and now judging from the filament shape (the cone shaped tip when changing filament), I can clearly see that this new coupler show some wear too. I dread to print the cylinder test again but I can already see some underextrusion on the latest prints... Don't know what to make of it. I am not completely convinced it is the little fan's fault. I checked that it is on (hard to tell - it is still that quiet). I think I'll go with the 3CFM version. Can't hurt to have more cooling. MC25100V2-000U-A99

OMG Labern - WANT!

Thanks for the hint. Would you mind to share the YouMagine link?