Nicolinux

One tip, you could put some dampers/cushioning under the Ultimaker's feet to reduce noise and add its stability.

Ok, thanks for the info. So is there a main cause for underextrusion or is it really a compound of many issues?

Not bad indeed. Although that bronze filament is a bi**c to print with. Always had underextrusion with it.

Yes you are. But you did what most don't - you started! Keep it going and you will feel much better soon.

@Sander: Thanks Sander. I knew that you are taking it seriously, but it is nice to have a confirmation. @Illuminarti: Good explanation. So I am not sure what's better. Having underextrusion and never spot it, or as soon as there is underextrusion, totally make it visible and potentially ruin the model (stability wise). I mean both scenarios aren't ideal since stripped filament leads to a failed print and severe underextrusion too.

Wow, thank you Sander. One more (hopefully not uncomfortable) question. What is the official status of underextrusion on the UM2? There has been written so much about it, and I am not sure how Ultimaker sees it. Do you recognize it as a real problem and are you working on a fix? Maybe a new feeder (not ABS) or a new teflon piece (new material)? Since this problem is so elusive, it might be hard to find a "be all end all" fix. But since the UM Original doesn't exhibit this problem, it must be something related to the new UM2 design. Because people and filament didn't change meanwhile, but the underextrusion was deffinitely en vogue with the appearance of the UM2. I am not sure what to do about underextrusion. Well, my printer has its own weird problems (plz answer the other pm), but for others who experience underextrusion, it might be frustrating to have a hit/miss relationship with their prints (as if 3d printing wasn't hit/miss-y already ) The UM2 has been about to 9 months out in the wild - no pressure, just aking because in my mind it is the perfect consumer 3D printer and I'd like to see that underextrusion problem erased from its image. Or at least prevent underextrusion from beeing attached to UM2's image.

Try the obvious things. Check for clogs (the atomic method works particularly well) and if it doesn't help, dismantle the head and check the teflon piece. The underextrusion issue is a bit of a mistery but deffinitely related to several factors. By the way, now that I think of it, those of you who never had underextrusion problems and have put their printer through paces - maybe you're doing something inherently useful to counter underextrusion and/or wear to certain parts that may lead to underextrusion. And maybe you are completely unaware of it So George, Simon, Aaron, Sander - could you please explain (in great detail if you have the time) how do you prepare a print, store filament (spool holder or floor), and in general - how you handle the printer. Here are some questions: How do you change filament? Standard way or heating up and pulling the filament out? Do you "sharpen" the filament tip so it doesn't get hung up inside the teflon piece? How often do you change filament? Do you let the nozzle heated up for a long time? Do you perform _very_ long prints? Room temperature where the printer is stored. Wich filament do you use (spool, loose, brand)? Did you change motion settings? Did you increase stepper motor current? Do you use an alternative feeder? Do you have a filament dust filter? Have you took the electronics cover off and checked where the extruder motor wires are guided? (maybe if they are guided wrong and are too close to other componentes, the extruder motor might be influenced during prints). ... Sorry for the many questions, but maybe maybe this will lead somewhere. Thanks, Stefan

Wow, it looks BIG. Only four pieces and half the door frame is full. Also teh 3D moddeling skillz I so dearly want... By the way, the orange thingy on the light switch looks printed too. Is it some kind of locking mechanism to prevent the bird(s) from turning the light on?

Well I had some trouble with the right knee and I didn't want to worsen it through inadequate exercises. But you are right, I'll need to tackle it and don't need extra equipment.

Yeah, because I don't have any equipment (yet) to train them. But I shouldn't skip for too long or I'll adopt the reversed pear shape

Since this thread turns into motivational workout talk - here's my contribution I've started three weeks ago (after two years pause...). I have a very, very simple program that takes no longer than 30 mins per day. I have chosen 6 muscle groups that I want to train (abs, pectoral muscles, back muscles, triceps, biceps and shoulder muscles). There are two different exercises per muscle group and for every exercise, four sets with as many repetitions as possible. In order to decide when to add weights, there is a simple rule. If for the last set I can do more than 12 repetitions, I add weights (like 2kg more). If I can't reach 8 repetitions, I remove weights. Between every set there is a pause of 30 seconds. And in order to keep the programm short, I do every day one muscle group - except for abs which are always trained. So for every day I have 2 abs exercises with four sets and 2 <muscle group> exercises with four sets. For warming up I do push-ups (as many as possible in one go). That's it. And in order to not break something, I bought this book (link) with exercises for every muscle group. Like Robert, I have my "gym" at home. It is very minimal and cheap. I think its value doesn't exceed more than 5 rolls of filament

Yay!! I am going to see my buddy Aaron. I'll be in Berlin at that time then. Never been there anyway so it is a good occasion.

Den Patch kannst du nicht ohne weitere einspielen. Du musst deine eigene Firmware kompilieren. Alternativ den Workaround ausprobieren (das Druckbett ein paar Mal hoch und herunterfahren).

Yep, it is out of stock. But if you enter your email address in the upper right input field, they'll contact you when it is available again. ETA 7 days for now.

However it is, it does look very very nice. Did you also get the chance to snab a silk sample?

I'd love to do it but my UM2 is somewhat broken right now and I have put off printing anything useful until it is fixed :/ If it weren't for some pleasant distractions lately, I sure would have screamed louder (poor Sander )

@Martin Bienz: I'd be interested in a spool holder. Will switch to Faberdashery soon. I think Woofy had one spool holder too but the space around my UM2 is very very limited and I think I can't fit it on the table. If your spool holder fints on the standard one, then I am on it

Weird, you are all talking about quiet fans and my fan is quiet when not attached to the head and lout otherwise. I wonder what's up with that.

Hi, nein noch nicht, aber interessante Idee. Werde es mal beobachten.

Please post a photo. But most likely you'd have to heat up the nozzle you the PLA starts to melt and you can yank it out. Be careful not to burn yourself!

Hey joatrash, check out these threads: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/ Maybe your teflon piece is deformed. Do you change filament often?

Hi, das erste Problem liegt daran dass du vermutlich das Druckbett zu weit von der nozzle entfernt hast. Einfach das Druckbett neu "leveln" und darauf achten dass zwischen nozzle und Druckbett das Papier nur ganz ganz wenig spürbaren Wiederstand hat. Wenn du einen Ultimaker 2 besitzt, kannst du das leveln vom Menü aus einleiten. Der blob auf der Spitze kommt daher dass der Druckkopf zu lange auf den letzten layer rumfährt und dem filament keine Zeit gibt abzukühlen. Man kann nicht so super viel dagegen machen. Es gibt nur ein paar Tricks. Eines davon ist es zwei Objekte gleichzeitig zu drucken (also wirklich gleichzeitig) so dass der Kopf immer hin und her fährt und so die layer abkühlen können. Desweiteren gibt es die Funktion "cool head lift" in den expert settings von Cura. Ansonsten gibt es die "advanced" Einstellung "minimal layer time" in Cura. Allerdings wird bei der Spitze das nicht vernünftig funktioneren denn wenn die "minimal layer time" unterschritten wird, dann fährt der Kopf einfach nur langsamer und weicht wieder das darunterliegende Filament auf.

I'd be happy to play with the bronze stuff first... @colorfabb: any ETA for the bronze filament?

@Didier: Nice avatar. The geek glasses fit you very well. Wearing them with pride is all that counts. I whish my UM2 was in working order... I'd print them in UM gold bling bling

Hey Skint, don't try to buy motivation with running shoes. Just go out and run. If you'll do it a few times and still keep doing it, then its time for new shoes (at least that'd be my recommendation).