Nicolinux

The title says it all. I remember the defaults were at 5mm for previous versions. Don't know what to make of this setting though. Never had problems when enabled at 0.5mm or 5mm. Just thought I'd mention it.

Hey Daid, since the surface quality problems are a bit worriesome with the latest Cura, could you please release a fix? (like the TEST2 version as Cura 14.03.01). The surface in TEST1/2 looks fantastic. Pretty please

You are right! Good idea. Will do.

@Robert: Will try to change the z-speed and print again. @JonasK: Combing was enabled (default for all my prints). @Didier Klein: Interesting, I have these spots only on the bottom and not a single one on the lid. But the lid was printed with faberdashery so this might be the reason. Although, I think the lid is far easier to print since it has a flat surface. I am more inclined to believe Dim3nsioneer's explanation. If this wouldn't take so long to print, I'll be debugging it all day. Gotta find another small object that features these spots.

@Ian: I "only" have an UM2. And obviously a mini Ultimaker would be perfect for micro tinkering and printing small objects with lots of details. That's what I want it for. I went so far and kickstartered this mini printer: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/m3d/the-micro-the-first-truly-consumer-3d-printer It is so small and cute. Would be the perfect printer to show around and loan to friends (in order to get the hooked). Because, you know, I can't give my UM2 away. The void it leaves ist too hard to bear

Man I whish I could go to the Fabcon 3D Fair. But that's too far away from my place :/ They don't have a live stream by chance? Would love to see your presentation.

Komm schon - wir haben einen 3D Drucker... das Erstellen von kleinen Gadgets ist doch kein Problem. Aber du hast Recht, seit dem 3D Drucker habe ich auch plötzlich eine Häckelnadel (zum Herausfischen der Filamentreste aus dem Extruder)

Hi, ich will nicht schon wieder die Lösung von Markus (unabsichtlich) schlecht machen. Ich nutze das hier - auch vom User Robert aus dem Forum: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118 Es hält von alleine wenn man es um das Filament, direkt vor dem Extruder klemmt. Und es ist leicht zu entfernen wenn das Filament gewechselt wird.

Here's another Ultimaker ripoff. http://www.3ders.org//articles/20140402-bonsai-mini-3d-printer-unveiled-in-japan.html What's cool though, is the size. If Ultimaker decides to release an Ultimaker Mini Kit - I'll be all over it. You know, something with a small nozzle (like 0.2) tuned for small and intricate prints.

Thanks for the tip. I tried to snap some closeup's. Maybe the problem is easier to identify:

Hi, I am printing Robert's kickass gift box (yes, I am a fan of everything this gentleman designs...). http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097 However I do get some ugly artefacts on the surface. It is hard to call them blobs. They look like the layers interwine and do not line up over each other in some spots. Print settings: layer height - 0.2 speed - 40 shells: 0.8 top/bottom: 1.2 The model on the right was printed at 230°. The one on the left at 240°. I have also started another print at 205° but got underextrusion (and the artefacts are still there): I went for 40 speed because the model already takes over two hours to print. Do you think it will be worth to try printing at 20 for maximum surface quality? @Robert: You have printed a few of these models for sure. Any advice? For the bottom part I used Ultimaker pearl white and for the lid Faberdashery mercury red (awesome color by the way - http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/mercury-red/). Will post proper pictures to thingiverse later. thx.

Hey Xeno, That's great to hear. Now it's party time right? Now go out and celebrate (and don't forget a healthy supply of stretchy bracelets for the ladies ).

I didn't know about it because the wiki didn't show it :/

Hi, zur Info - ich nutze das hier und es läuft sehr gut: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-guide Das coole daran ist, dass nichts am UM2 geändert werden muss.

What?!?!?! Do tell.

Hey Robert, Maybe you don't have to buy artistic talent. Look out for your local "nerd spots" - you know, the usual stores that sell role playing game stuff. The locals are usually pretty good at painting figures. And if you print two models and let them keep one as payment, that should be more than sufficient.

@JonasK: I am printing almost everything at 1.2mm bottom/top. This way you would avoid holes at the top (not the case here, but just wanted to mention it).

Eine Sache noch. Bevor du den Umbau vornimmst - achte darauf ob du es wirklich brauchst. Ich hatte schon mit Markus gesprochen und ich nehme an dass sein UM2 von Anfang an etwas defekt war. Ich habe mit dem zweiten Ultimaker 2 keine großen Probleme und habe nichts geändert ausser den Rollenhalter von Robert (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235925). Das heisst nicht dass der Umbau von Markus nicht gut ist. Es wird sicherlich bei underextrusion helfen. Aber ich sehe bereits ein Problem. Das Wechseln des Filamentes (welches bei mir täglich mehrmals erfolgt), gestaltet sich viel schwieriger. Du kannst nicht mehr so gut das Filament mit den Fingern greifen und es in den Extruder stecken. Es muss jetzt durch den Schlauch unten durchgehen. Und wegen dem Wiederstand beim Einfädeln im Extruder - achte einfach darauf dass du mit dem Filament ganz leicht hin und her wiggelst während du es einsteckst. Wenn du zu stark drückst, verbiegt sich ein Teil der Filamentführung im Extruder und das kann zu Problemen führen.

Except that you have to re-level the z-stage again after swapping the glass plate...

Hi, die bottom/top thickness ist abhängig von der layer height die du angibst. Diese sollte immer das Mehrfache der layer height sein. Wenn du z.B. mit 0.2 layer height druckst, und 0.5 bei bottom/top thickness eingibst, hat der Drucker Probleme das einzuhalten. Er kann entweder 2x0.2 oder 3x0.2 drucken. Ähnlich verhält es sich mit den shells. Die Nozzle/Düse hat einen Durchmesser von 0.4mm. Auch hier sollte die Wanddicke ein Mehrfaches der Nozzle sein. Wegen dem Filament - Ich habe schlechte Erfahrungen mit Innofil von iGo3d gemacht. Wenn du wirklich hochwertiges Filament suchst, dann schau dir faberdashery oder colorfabb an. Auch eine neue Abrollvorrichtung könnte helfen. Ich nutze das hier vom User Robert aus dem Forum. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235925

Kei here is another idea. Take a look at the popular prints on http://thingiverse.com. You will often find that the most beautyful prints are done with an Ultimaker.

Guys the combing vs. retraction is not only useful for structural integrity when it produces underextrusion on long moves, the top layer also suffers because there are long travel moves that are very visible:

To be honest I am working with Moment of Inspiration now. Havent tried Fusion since the last update. And since Designspark Mechanical is Windows only, I did skip it. Will try Fusion again for sure. The .stl importing feature alone is very cool. But so is Meshmixer too and way more fun to use

Ok, I understand now what you say. Then I could simply either reduce flow to 50% or re-slice and chose a 4mm shell. thx.

No wait, according to the help tooltip for spiralize it does a single wall so it ignores the shell setting. And the print really does look like it is a single wall - it is very thin.