tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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I believe they are often referred to as simply ultimaker-style gantry, and fall in the cartesian category.
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Also, try insulating your hotend heatblock... I wrapped my E3Dv6 heatblock in ceramic tape/cloth fastened with kapton tape, and it improved heatup time, as well as heat stability, significantly....
As an added bonus, it will greatly reduce radiation heat coming from the block... In your case, blocking in those 450 degrees to not melt everything around it, could prove quite useful.
I would also look into maybe placing a better/bigger fan to cool the fins of the hotend, as well as improving heat conductivity between those and the heatbreak with some thermal paste...
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Okay, quick question: if I do end up buying the full v6 kit, should I pick up the 12v or 24v model? I haven't really familiarized myself with my printer's electronics, and I'm not sure which one is a better bet. Any suggestions?
Oh, and I've also found a really well-designed mount for the it that uses dual fans that I'm interested in using (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397518). One hiccup of it is the thermocouple mount which is nonexistent on the Original + carriage. Probably not a big deal - might just look a bit funny.
You have a UM+, which uses UM2 electronics, those are 24V...
Regarding the mount, I think it is fine, I used the same one just in a v5 version...
Theres not really a mount per se for the thermocouple amplifier board, just 2 tiny holes to put some screws in, so you are fine...
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I don't have an UM2, so its a bit hard to say and I think a lot of things factor in to the final result...
I think 4 mm. @ 40 mm/s is a safe default, and you can work your way from there...
What you could then do, is to print some test prints with different settings and see what you like best...:
- Get a model like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028352
- Use the "Tweak at z" plugin, to modify temperatures at the different heights and slice it with eg. the 4 mm. @ 40 mm./s retraction setting... Do a test print.
- Now tweak the retraction settings somewhat heavily (like 6 mm. @ 60 mm./s), slice and print again...
- Try the same to the other side (2 mm. @ 20 mm./s)...
With those 3 prints I think you should have a very good idea about what temp and retraction works best for your machine, brand of filament, climate etc. etc.
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- As cold as possible
- That also means fairly slow
- Fine tuned retraction at that temp
- Good print cooling
- High(ish) travel speed
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Thanks for all the great input! I'm still using the original Ultimaker Original + hotend (with some specially treated Chinese nozzles that are awesome), which has been melting down and giving me crud recently. I'm hoping that the v6 will work just a bit better than what I've been getting. I've also thought about trying to modify the Original + hotend to look/work a bit more like the 2's hotend, but I don't exactly think I'm good enough with this hotend to design a new one from scratch.
Just make sure you follow E3Ds assembly instructions TO THE POINT... This is where 90% of users go wrong, and they end up with a crappy experience (again, not targeting @ultiarjan here)
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Those are all good suggestions, and certainly the first place to start...
If you want to go a bit more advanced, you can look into the "olsson block"...
Originally developed by a UM2 user, but now fully supported and sold by Ultimaker (amongst others), its an alternative heatblock that lets you fit different sized nozzles which will allow you to finish prints faster (or make super fine detailed small prints with the small nozzles)
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Yep E3Dv6 (not lite) 3mm. bowden version... Have had the v5 for a long time as well... same story.
The inside liner ones are the 1.75mm. version
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I've printed nothing but PLA on my E3Dv6 and it has worked fine... I don't want to diss anyone, and I hope that @ultiarjan won't take it that way, but I ascribe 90% of all the troubles you read about with E3D to be due to user error of some kind.
I would say the E3D hotends are a good bet for you for a better hotend, and I wouldn't know what better alternative to suggest really...
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You don't want to buy an expensive UM2 head for your UMO... Take a look at some 3rd party quality products like the E3Dv6 (or v6 Lite)..
Lots of people (including me) use that with great success on their UMOs (and a ton of other printers), there are lots of mounts on thingiverse/youmagine, and depending on how you choose to do the upgrade it can be anyware from "really really simple" to "that wasn't that hard after all"
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To counter all the nay-sayers a bit (though not entirely), what you could do is to buy that kit, and use it as a base for the printer you really want...
That means replacing a lot of crap parts straight away as you assemble for the first time...
Its not uncommon for UM users, even (or perhaps especially) the more experienced ones, to replace parts of their printers... Though its more of a UM1 thing, the UM2 users are slowly following as the machine gets older...
So in the end "all original ultimaker" is not necessarily all that good, or what you really want.
However!
I can assure you that very few people (read: none) will be taking their UM apart to replace its parts with cheap Chinese ones (at least not the critical ones), and so, your end product (china kit + quality replacement parts) is probably going to be of quite a similar price as an Original UM.
On top of this, modifying a 3d printer, knowing what to get, installing it correctly etc., requires experience more than anything...Experience that you, as a first time user, do not have.
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I keep running into those car system fans as well, but I can't find any with impellers ~200mm that pull suitable mA.
I guess there is no reprieve from the 1.5.7 board fan power constraints unless I add external power, or bite the bullet and replace the stock board (I have been eyeing the Smoothieboard 5x for another build).
Yeah, I needed more power for a heated bed as well, and so in the end I found it easiest to simply swap everything... I don't regret it either, RUMBA has been super nice, lots of possibilities, little restraints.
I always found the large laptop psu next to the printer kind of fail considering the amount of space available underneath the printer, but I guess price was a factor for ultimaker here... I raised the printer a few cm. with some printed feet and mounted a 300W 24V industrial PSU down there to pull everything... As an added bonus it vents hot air into the build area through some holes I cut in the bottom cover
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Which fan did you use, tommyph1208, and what modifications to the UMO electronics did you do, if any? I was getting ready to get a QG030-198/12 for my UMO, but the exchange between jonnybischof and neotko has me wondering if I'm out of my depth on the electronics. The QG030-198/12 could draw ~670mA with the fan at 255. The fan that came with my UMO looks to be rated at 100mA. I see how everyone is suggesting running at no greater than 40-50%, but I'd hate to be one forgotten profile setting away from blowing the main board.
I do not know the brand (or even how much current it draws at full speed), I bought it off a Danish shop that deals in car audio systems... Apparently if you are a really cool guy, you have amplifiers in your car, so big that they require a fan like this to keep cool :/
Anyways, I run my printer at 24V off a RUMBA board (fan is still 12V though)
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Oh... Thats alot of extra bulk for your printer
Also, as the others (and yourself) point out, that solution dosn't only heat up your print area, but in fact the whole printer, which is not at all optimal... I would go with a solution that dosn't heat up the electronics.
On my UMO I made 3 acrylic side panels that fit in the holes of the printer... You can see a post about it here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16033-ultimaker-original-magnetic-mounted-acrylic-side-and-front-panels
Since you have a UM2, you only need 1 panel... Mine are mounted with magnets, and snap in place inside the hole to add zero extra bulk, and I use a crossflow fan so have no closed top... The fan keeps circulating the hot air inside the printer, and only a small part of it escapes...
Its a bit of a big rebuild, so going with just a front panel and a "bucket" the way ultiarjan links, would be way more easy and fast...
For heat, my hotend and bed are sufficient for heating the chamber... You don't want to go too hot in there as the stepper motors are mounted inside and they also have a max operating temp.
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Hey Guys,
I got a little bit of time this weekend, so I finished my thing. It's a Fallout Mini nuke -with innards! Check it out.
Share it pleeeeease! - So cool
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I second Robert`s reply, and also just a quick thought.... Doesn't the tension from those two sprung loaded rollers actually ADD tension to the spoil ? Or do they rotate very freely even when loaded.
The rollers have 626 bearings inside to make them rotate smoothly, theres also not a lot of friction between the plastic spool and printed plastic roller, so even if they were fixed I don't think it would be much of a problem...
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I finished a new spool holder for my UMO - Goal here is to not have a long pole sticking out the back of the printer...
That's a really cool design, nicely done! The one thing I would probably change is the spring loaded locking mechanism to make it one handed. How about making a part that looks like an upside down "Y" with the rollers on the two downward points. And then a single spring that you pull straight up instead? Or maybe it would even be enough with a single roller up top?
Thanks a lot!
It means a lot coming from you Robert, seeing how you seem to pump out quality stuff on a regular basis (you'll notice your own super slick feeder design pulling on the spool there in the picture
)Several people have mentioned trying with just 1 spring loaded pulley, I might just try it to compare... It would make it way faster and simpler to build a full kit.
What I do now, is to actually lift the spring loaded pulleys with the edge of the spool and then just snap the spool in place in the lower pulleys once its heigh enough, so it can be done one-person, though I agree a single spring loader would be simpler.
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Great solution Tommyph1208, nice design.
Thanks, Im quite happy with it, and it falls nicely in line with my other attempts at trying to keep the printer compact and "streamlined"..
My mate (who did most of the drawings) now added the design to Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158080
I added some instructions in the comments...
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I finished a new spool holder for my UMO - Goal here is to not have a long pole sticking out the back of the printer...
It has come about as a collaboration between me (who got the idea a while back), and a mate from a danish 3d printing group, for whom I described the idea and presented some sketches, he then did the CAD drawings...
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There was a kit sold on ebay by a guy here on the forums, Jason_HK is his username, if you search for it I'm sure you'll find it...
I have that kit, and I'm very very happy with my current setup - However, I made quite a lot of other changes as well, like converting the whole system to 24V, and running off a different electronics platform (Rumba), which is probably needed to make it work really well...
It was however designed to be used with the UMO, but you need to use a switching relay, and a stronger power supply.
Since you would connect the heatbed to the PSU via the relay and not through the board, you can actually choose to have a seperate PSU just for the HB, it can then run eg. 24V and thereby heat faster, while the printer is still running 19V of its normal PSU).
I think its the heatbed itself is somewhat the same as this (the kit included more pieces like the relay itself, and I also got some borosilicate glass to put on top):
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Sounds to me like the easiest solution for you would be to do as pm_dude intitially suggested... That is;
- Make your bookmark as a 2D image in eg. photoshop (or even paint)
- Import the image into Cura
- Fiddle a bit around with the import settings (base height, what color is heigh, what is low, etc.)
- Print
Remember to make your text big enough, and don't use a font with lots of detail in it...
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Oooooooh nice @tommyph1208. Do want one for my desk too.
Yeah its nice in the geeky way...
This one is printed in two parts (to get details on all sides), glued together, primed with auto-filler, sanded a bit here and there, primed again with paint primer and then hand painted with citadel miniature paint (the stuff you use for tabletop miniatures like warhammer etc.)... Finally its had a layer of gloss varnish, mostly for protection.
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My latest addition to the office desk - The Companion Cube!
(I work as a Software Engineer for a Game company)
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I printed a little T-Rex skull to sit on top of my screen:
And this gear-cube I often find myself casually fiddling with during small tals and meetings (keeps the hands busy but dosn't distract focus):
E3D-V6 on an Ultimaker Original +?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I assume you mean fans for print cooling?
I have used a variety of 12V PC fans... They can be anywhere from fairly cheap (and noisy), to somewhat expensive (and silent'ish)... But really, there are a lot of options out there, just pick one...
Alternatively, I just have to mention the "crossflow fan approach"... Search for it here on the forum.