tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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It looks like you have "Support: Everywhere" enabled... So isn't the green lines you are seeing, auto-generated support?
EDIT: According to Daid (google searched Cura colors), green are supposed to be inner walls... So I dunno.
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Does the 24V version of the E3D come with a 24V fan as well?
I thought it was only the heat cartridge that was different?
It also seems like @Dalemaunder already bought his hotend... AND he mentions the fan being 12V
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I think the white UM2 board in your UMO+ is 24V, not 19V...
Seems weird to me that there wouldn't be a 12v output SOMEWHERE on the UM2 board?
The cooling fans for the E3D hotend needs to be always on (at least when the hotend is hot, which pretty much means always), so an always-on 12V rail, is really all you need.
If not:
You could put 2 x 12v fans in series on your 24V rail, though its quite a hacky solution, and I don't know where you would put that additional fan...
You can also use a DC setpdown/buck to get your 12V... I have done this to get an extra, external, 12V rail on my UMO, and it worked fine.
...But that does not in any way make it an idiot-proof approach with the UM2 power supply.
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As far as I remember, the "save icon" (disk or SD card, depending what you have plugged in), turns into a print icon when the printer is plugged in via USB
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I agree that the poor infill quality vs. ok wall quality, would indicate that the change in speed between these two, is too extreme.
I would try setting them all to the same speed (eg. 50 mm/s.) as @Nicolinux suggests, and see what happens....
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I agree that in some cases (like this turbine) you might as well just cut and sand off any strings, and be happy about an otherwise beautiful and strong print...
However, some prints are more complex, and will leave stringing in various cavaties etc., that are hard to reach and sand... In this case, you really want to minimize stringing.
My 3 goto tricks are:
- Lower temperature (even 5 or 10 degrees will make a difference)
- Higher travel speed (your UM should be capable of 200-250 mm/s, but be careful about missed steps)
- Get to know your extruder setup and a good retraction setting for it (I currently have 6mm. at 40 mm./s, but it varies from setup to setup)
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Shes adorable, congrats mate!
I have two of my own, aged 3 and 1, and have on several occasions used my printer to print various things related to them (its a great tool for fixing cheap plastic toys), so on top of all the happiness (and concerns), see her as another excuse to put your printer to good use
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The UM2 (and ultimaker printers in general) I believe are of a very good quality, they are amongst the more reliable printers, the UM2 amongst the best print-out-of-the-box printers, and they deliver supreme print quality for FDM printers.
But don't be mistaken... With a product like the UM2 you ARE paying alot for it to look nice on your desk (compare it to an apple product in this regard)... As people are saying, you can achieve similar results with a UM1 at half the price... But it IS made from burned wood...
And alot has happened to the consumer 3d printer market since the UM1 was released 5 years ago... I think you can today come close to the UM print quality with a lot of printers, and possibly some cheaper ones as well.
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PVA glue is what's suggested, right? Like these....
Its PVA wood glue yes... Be careful to not make too thick a solution, you can get large prints to stick really really well with that... Go with 1 part glue to 10 parts water, or maybe even less (I actually pulled a shard of glass off my borosilicate plate with a large print, because I used too thick a solution).
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Wood glue and water (~1:10 solution) applied to a 60 degrees hot bed with a sponge...
Water vaporizes quickly leaving a super thin and very even layer of glue that sticks PLA very nicely...
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I know where you're coming from, and I agree to a point. Just struck a nerve I guess hehe.
Playing devil's advocate a bit I could flip it around and say that if you're willing to modify your printer you wouldn't have an issue with replacing the transistor for something beefier to make it work.
Fite me bro!
I started reading forum posts about operations to do stuff like that and figured that given my electronics skills/experience (read: not that great) it would be better/easier for me to simply swap the board - which is what I did.
I am fine with that as well, I long ago gave up on this being a cheap hobby...
It does pain me a bit though that the board I pulled out wasn't actually cheap when taking the price of the printer into consideration.
Anyway, I think we might be thread-hijacking a bit here... what @neotko mentioned is probably a very real risk, and something to be taken into consideration in relation to running crossflow fans (or bigger/more fans in general) on the stock UM electronics.
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I have mine plugged into a pwm port on my RUMBA board and it has been running fine like that for months and months... I call UM electronics fail
Yeah, I mean, why wouldn't UM design their board to run gigantic fans even when they don't use them...
c'mon now
I see what you are getting at, and from a cost optimization point of view it makes perfect sense... I respect you and the work you have done in this community, so I don't want to get into an internet fight here... But:
I could go in the other direction and say they are not THAT gigantic... A fan like mine is I think, around 0.4A (a typical 40mm. axial fan is what? 0.1-0.2A?).
Designing a RepRap inspired product, like the UMO is/was, to just its needed spec and not a dime more, meaning the first time a user hooks up any sort of mod (be it an additional fan, LED strips, a heated bed, whatever), electronic components fry left and right, to me, is a bit disappointing.
The UM is not a cheap China product, and so IMO it wouldn't have hurt if there was just a little bit of room left for mods and improvements... I think this is especially true, because of the nature of the product and its community - But thats just my opinion.
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Crossflow fans rocks. Just don't plug it on the pwm fan, that's how I broke the transistor the first time
I have mine plugged into a pwm port on my RUMBA board and it has been running fine like that for months and months... I call UM electronics fail
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Did you consider the crossflow fan approach? (Forum topic here)
I have a setup like that and I'm really happy with it...
It is only blowing from one side, but doing so all the time (not only when the printhead is over an area of plastic) which somewhat counters that downside... As a bonus, it gives you the smallest printhead/maximum amount of build area possible and makes for some sick overhangs...
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From my experience there are a lot of better ways to decrease print time than upping the parameter that Cura calls "print speed" (or slicing at a default value and turning the nob on your Ulticontroller to multiply this parameter by some factor - Which in essence does the same thing).
Actually, you will often see that it helps very very little, as the printer is limited by other parameters (min. layer time, acceleration, deceleration, travel speed etc. etc.)
One of the best ways to decrease print time is to up the layer height (0.2 mm. layer slices print twice as fast as 0.1 mm. layer slices). Here you are still limited by the maximum amount of plastic the extruder can force through your nozzle (the 8-10 mm3/s that @Labern mentions), but you get around the factors of min. layer time, acceleration, deceleration etc.)
Another good area is the % of infill and amount of support... Go as low as you possibly can, maybe spend an hour to manually add some infill/support to your model in the critical areas that are otherwise forcing you to choose a certain setting.
Another very good trick is to get a bigger nozzle (say 0.6 or even 0.8mm)...
It might not be doable for you if you have started something and have to finish it in 3 days from now and don't have a "nozzle-shop" just around the corner... But it will allow you to extrude more plastic per second, have one line perimeters where you would otherwise need two, etc.... Rarely does it have an actual high impact on the final quality of the print.
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Its quite simple to add another fan to the printhead... Just search online (thingiverse/youmagine) for an additional/dual fan duct for the UMO and buy another 40mm. 12v fan.
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Did you try and compare with prices on www.3dhubs.com?
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Seperating the bed intirely sounds like a drag in the long run, its just nice to have everything to do with it, be part of the slicing... Anyways, thats my oppinion
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I did not print any myself (though I've had a roll lying around for ages)... I've seen alot of fine results though, also from Bowden printers... I saw a video recommending a bit of oil in the Bowden and +1 on the low speed...
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Im assuming you have a UM1?
You need a bigger/additional power supply and a DC relay or better mosfet... As an alternative to the whole relay business, you can swap your entire electronics for something better that can actually handle a heated bed, which is what I did when installing that same heatbed kit.
I went with a RUMBA card and stepped the whole machine up to 24V running off a single 300W power supply mounted under the printer... Anothe option could be the cheap and reliable Ramps (you already have the Arduino), those are 12V.. So in any case you need a new PSU and you probable have to swap the 19V cartridge in your hotend to match the new voltage as well...
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E3Ds own assembly instructions specifically state to leave a gap between nozzle "lip" and heatblock, though not nearly as large as yours...
You could look into if you can unscrew the heatbreak some more and get the nozzle a bit deeper... It seems like your heatblock is the same height as the newer ones (or E3Ds for that matter), so there should be plenty of room.
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Alternatively, I just have to mention the "crossflow fan approach"... Search for it here on the forum.
Wow - I just checked out that post and it looks promising! I've been reading it for a while and it looks like a neat idea. Do you think it's a better way to go about getting a new hotend? My friend has the Printrbot Simple Metal with the UBIS hotend on it (he's never had a single jam, in fact he has never had to take it apart), which is working pretty well for him. I also really like the mount the UBIS has - pretty darn simple! I think I'd have to mod the heck out of my printer to use 1.75mm filament, though, so maybe it isn't time for that one yet. And, besides, if I buy the E3D, I could use it on the RepRap MendelMax 2 I'm in the process of building
I think you misunderstood me...
All I was pointing at was the solution where you take a laminar air flow fan and mount in in the side of your printer, as an alternative to dragging print-cooling fans around on the side of your hotend carrage... Not the use of a UBIS hotend over an E3D
Though I have a UBIS hotend lying around, I have never tried it, but my initial notion is that it is a solid design, though not as flexible in the options for assembling, disassembling, switching nozzles etc.
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After a huge clogging on my UM1 (I decided to swap nozzles with something beefier, to achieve faster print and less nozzle clog.
FOund this 3d, read it, bought some new nozzles from e3d.
But the situatin is not the same as yours. My UM1 nozzle has a female thread and so is VERY different from e3d nozzles.
Any advice on how to mount the e3d 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle to my UM1?
What? A female thread? That must be a very old hotend?
So how does your heatblock look? And how do your nozzles connect to it?
Do you have a heatbreak running all the way through the block and into the nozzle or?
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I never paid any attention to that, and never had a problem so far... Maybe I've just been lucky... Or maybe it means it dosn't really matter for our applications...
I can't find any UM2 fans on the UM store, but my guess is you can buy A LOT of different PC fans for the price of one UM fan... Don't get me wrong, I love Ultimaker, what they do, and what they have done... But spare parts was never their strong side...
How to connect the heatsink fan for E3D v6 hotend on Original+?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Alright... I didn't notice that... Always assumed the fans to be 12V.
It does however not help much, if he already bought the kit :/