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bauermaker

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Everything posted by bauermaker

  1. Hi I used Aero - Bond Superglue and Activator Spray for most of my projects: http://www.ebay.at/itm/2x-AERO-BOND-SET-Sekundenkleber-dickflussig-dunnflussig-mittelflussig-Aktivator/191113158919?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D7433579352415654656%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D140446190029%26clkid%3D7433580573406291077&_qi=RTM1685972 Some people are reportedly also using Loctite Products.
  2. Wet sanding is the most important thing to do to get a good finish. I start with 220 grit and work my wayup to 1000. After one pass of sanding i dry the model and go outside to give it a coat of filler. After this coat i can spot the bigger flaws that i have to touch up with putty or bondo. then i sand again and repeat the steps until i am satisfied (can take for eeeever) One of the bigest problems is, to get to difficult to reach areas on your model. With the truck i ended up having to split it in many different parts to be able to get in to every nook and cranny, I sometimes use a Dremel but mor often than not end up ruining some of the small deatails because the Material starts to melt.
  3. Hi Everyone I just decided to start a thread describing my modus operandi filling and sanding my models after printing. I will be happy to answer any questions and i will be posting my experiences with different brands of filler (either spray or tube based) and different kinds of Filament. Here are work in progress shots of a project i did a while back for renault austria. I took me about 4 days to get it done and it involved a lot of sanding and a little bit of reconstructing (the cabin was to short at first ad i had to ad an extension in the back) It was printed in orbitech 90, fillered with generic spray based car filler from the hardware store,tamiya putty (ebay) and Moltofill wood. this was the finished result
  4. Lennart, i am glad that you like the pug so much Andwew you are fu**ing insane in a very good way , respect.
  5. Thanks Lennart I dont feel good about uploading the whole model since it wont print properly in one piece and i dont have time to write an assembly guide now, but i uploaded a derivate i did for a friend of mine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pug-container hope you like it b
  6. "Sometimes I lack inspiration, anybody knows a good source for inspiration? " love the egg holders, i get most of my inspiration when i am outside in the woods walking around this was my biggest print so far, printed in two parts simultaneously on two UM1s. it stands 50cm tall (base 10cm, pug 30cm, crown 10cm) The paintjob was kind of unintentional (the color was dried and my airbrush died, long story) buit i like how it turned out in the light
  7. Hi Everyone I want to share this model i made with and for my 4 year old nephew. We designed it together during a drawing session where he tells me what he wants me to draw and so this special Rhino came into existence It is printed in fabherdashery phosphorescent PLA. The files are available for download on youmagine if you want to print your own. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/airrhino have fun and happy easter b
  8. thanks as i said, i am not sure what the XT really is, i am sure that i glued this model in the middle using superglue i hope you wont be disapointed, i am still very happy with the ultimaker 1, mostly if you compare the costs to the professional machines. Quality wise it will greatly depend on the kind of models you print, to get such a good result on the truck i had to split it in several parts, which increased the post processing time even more. i had to do this because of the size and the limitations of the printer, but also because i had to make sure that i could reach all the surfaces to propery sand them.
  9. hi i am doing a lot of post processing (wet sanding from grit 200 up to 1000) and have to say that some PLA tends to be tricky. I had good results with orbitech PLA (its nice to sand but the overal print quality is not so good - more sanding needed), LAybrick is very easy to sand but not so easy to print and expensive. i like colorfabb XT, its not technically PLA, but PET i think, but it sands well and is very tough printed in Colorfabb XT, primed and only sanded a little, 0.08 layer height printed in Orbitech PLA 90, primned and sanded for ever, 0,06 l;ayer height Orbitech PLA 90, primed and sanded, 0,1 Layer height good luck and have fun.
  10. Hi Alex_3d Welcome to the comunity, that is a very nice paintjob you did there. Tips on how to increase you print quality can be found all over the forum, but just to sum it up: its impoirtant to keep ypur printer well calibrated, keep the belts tight and the axis aligned. don"t print too fast and use the right temperature for your material/speed. There are also plenty of modifications available (dual fan, heated bed, new pulleys, direct drive, nozzle diameter...) I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle for example, that really increased the printing speed without any notivable loss in quality (except on very small and delicate prints. good luck and have fun b
  11. i did some tests with taulman 645 on my UM 1 and was very impressed with the quality i got. printed with normal speed (40mm) on a heated bed. the biggest problem is that its hygroscopic and so after a few hours in normal air its nearly unprintable. but for small parts it is awesome and can be dyed using cooking water and food coloring http://richrap.blogspot.co.at/2013/04/3d-printing-with-nylon-618-filament-in.html
  12. i wanted to post something more organic in contrast to all the great mechanical prints just to show that the UM1 is still a very awesome machine colorfabb XT / 0.08 mm Layers / no Support / printed the shoes seperately and glued them on / shoes were scanned using a primesense and skanect / 15 cm high / only light sanding / a lot of primer and tamiya spraypaint
  13. yes, i measured very carefully, but i will have a look thanks for the advice i am in contact with the seller right now, but due to chinese new year the factory is closed until february 7th. i am really interested what they will have to say the printer is still running smoothly, printed for 8hours plus since yesterday and experienced no problems. i will post the results, if this problem should get resolved this board could be a cheap backup option (i would like to stock up on spare parts, but the original board is quite expensive and broke after one year of frequent use, this was the worst trouble i ever had with my UM1)
  14. could it have anything to do with this: On the little stepper driver boards (see picture on the right) that are inserted into the electronics, there are trimpot's that can be screwed clockwise or counter-clockwise. quote from: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide could they be to weak ?
  15. thanks for the reply, i just read the exact same post but unfortunately i have allready disconnected the jumper. changing the zsteps to the double value with the ulticontroller did the trick so far, its the exact same size as in cura. so i will leave it at that, i am just curious what it could be...
  16. hi i bought a cheap prelacement pcb 1.5.7 board on ebay http://www.ebay.at/itm/SunFounder-Mega-2560-Ultimaker-A4988-3D-Stampante-Kit-Per-RAMPE-Arduino-/161197250636?clk_rvr_id=578649004845&mfe=sidebar and managed to make everything work (some plugs were wrong, to many resistors in the wrong places etc.) but one problem is still bugging me : i allways get only half of the z height / layer height. The ulticontroller is telling me that the zsteps/mm are 533.33 so this looks correct. I manually doubled this value on my ulticontroller and in the testprint that is being printed right now everything looks ok. But what could be the reason for this strange behavior ? i am using cura 13.12 und i uploaded the latest firmware, i also replaced the arduino (do i need additional firmware on the arduino or is the cura update enough ?) thanks for your time p.s.: i just wanted to add that i ordered a new board from the official ultimaker store in the meantime because cutting corners didnt really pay of ...
  17. hi just wanted to add that my extruder looked even worse after only one year of use. it was mostly due to the fact that i had assembled it wrong somehow and only found out a few weeks ago. i had even worse abrasive effect, but i came to the same solution as you did and everything turned out fine ( at least until my board decided to die :( now i am questioning how many life hours the average ultimaker has until you have to replace most of it ... but a few months ago i was in contact with gregor luetolf who runs the blog http://www.3drucken.ch/ and owns at least one 'very old' ultimaker and is posting about the trouble he has due to age related issues ... he is a very nice guy and maybe he has some tips how to treat a heavily used ultimaker good luck b p.s.: if you have trouble with german, this is his contact info info@3drucken.ch gregor.luetolf@gmail.com
  18. hi thanks a lot for the answer, i only saw it today (missed the notification). i have contacted ultimaker but they haven't replied so far. since i am still very satisfied with my UM1 i am more inclined to getting a UM1 kit or building one from scratch (i have to much free time and maybe upgrade to a resin printer in the second half of 2014 (which will be a completely new adventure i assume)
  19. there are several books about 3d printing but i havent read any. i learned most through trial and error and by reading the forum, the post your latest print thread really motivated to start post processing and showed me whats possible even with the U1. I made my truck model without any prior practical experience with sanding, filling etc. i only knew what i read in the forums and what common sense told me (and i knew how to handle a 3d software and which print orientation would give me the best results). also posts from members like illuminarti, gr5, braddock or valcrow and many others were invaluable.
  20. It was printed in PLA so it wouldnt work afaik. But my plan is to print the exact same model in ABS and then try the vapor treatment to have a comparison. A few weeks ago i bought a heated bed on ebay, and the first testprints with ABS have been promising. Only the smell of the ABS and the fumes of the Acetone are a little bit off putting.
  21. thanks, the truck was my biggest comercial project so far. it was a bit easier to sand because i split the model in several parts so i could get everywhere. This figure i made for my portfolio and it was printed in one part so some areas were really difficult to reach, if i should print it a second time i would print the tongue extra to make it more convenient.
  22. hi I have been using my ultimaker 1 with a 0.8mm Nozzle for the last 2 months and i have to say that i am more than happy with the results i am getting. Allthough prints with a lot of retraction tend to get messier than before the increase in speed is well worth it ( and i try to avoid retraction heavy prints anyway). As i am thinking of upgrading to the Ultimaker 2 may qeuestion would be if anybody has allready tried to increase the nozzle diameter (illuminarti maybe ??) ?? thanks in advance b
  23. hi made this a while ago but only came around finishing and photographing it recently. its printed on an U1 in Orbitech 90 Pla, 0.6 layer height. Used a lot of filler spray and had to sand it for ages. painted with tamiya spraypaint.
  24. hi I would also go for the ultimaker 2 because i think it will print slightly better and more reliable, but if you are planning to handfinish your products anyway it wont make that much of a difference. i own an U1 and was fortunate enough to earn back most of the purchase price through comercial work. i had similar plans like you at first (and still have) but the things that made me money were special prototypes and or props for movies or events that i could produce cheaper and faster than other companies using traditional methods. i finished all my models by hand and since its possible it can sometimes be a pain in the ass and take hours especially if you have very hard to reach areas . anyway, i wish you all the best and good luck b
  25. hm, if ultimaker really wants to compete with makerbot or 3d systems (who also announced new models that weren't that impressive technically) than they will be doomed (i fear). But if they would concentrate on their strengths (superior quality und speed for the price, good reputaion) und stop fighting an uphill battle then i think they could find their niche in the prosumer market. i would love to see them offering an ultimaker with a bigger build size, or 3 extruders, or also a mini version with half the build size that you can buld with your kids (like the printrbot jr. ?). I am also wondering if these announcments were the reason they rushed (or so it seemed to me, with some of the packaging, quality control issues) the release of the U2 in September so not having to compete with those new systems now ...
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