mr.-waldorf

The acetone that I use (not nail polish remover) melts the PLA also, but ABS dissolves faster than PLA. I am having success with acetone to clean the nozzle

Hey Shafe, Tell Larry to be gentle with the Pt100 probe and the fan's wiring there's a small hexagonal screw that fix the probe and the heater ...and tell Larry to use R/C hex wrenches, so awesome they rocks my socks!!

Abs is a different animal (like someone said here in the forum ) it's easier to extrude I agree with you... Yes, it's correct, just unscrew the "silver cylinder with the perimeter holes" from the nozzle. After soaking the nozzle you have to use something to remove the crap. Last time I used a match and (not sure if is the correct term) a tooth stick!? :smile: :grin: :lol: I will miss your humor, that's for sure. Almost all beers have 4,5% and the good stuff has 5,5% :blink: :blink:

Hi braddock, There are several things that can cause under extrusion, it's not caused by only a little devil, the devil has several little friends. Thought that your problems were solved!? Man, that filament has really tight radius!! there should be a lot of resistance in bowden tube and in the teflon coupler.

Hi Schafe, Are you sure that the Has Cap technique works? I tryed that and didn´t remove almost anything. I think it all depends on how much burned plastic you have inside your nozzle. Once you've managed to successfully print at 10mm3/s for a few times, the first thing that I would check would be the nozzle, the teflon coupler and the filament radius. I could bet some beers that your problem is a dirty nozzle. Was not my intention to doubt from the capacity of Iowan people, but a European six pack it will put you drunk real fast. So my Iowan friend, it doesn't matter the quantity but the quality, didn't you know that size doesn't matter? :mrgreen: Cheers, now I'm thirsty... Additional note: The nozzle interior is dificult to inspect due to the small size, but make sure that you really cleaned it. In my very first experiments with the UM2, I noticed that after a few prints the filament wasn´t "dripping" during the heating process like in the begining. I made a extrusion test and only reached to 6mm3/s. after the nozzle clean I started to achieve 10mm3/s again. Follow illuminarti's procedure (post#133) to assemble the Bowden.

Hi Schafe 10/10 Blarps for your printer. You are at the top in the Blarp contest! Check your nozzle, I suspect that it will be full of black s*** 250ºC for PLA is too much, this will generate a lot of burned plastic inside the nozzle. Since you have to remove the teflon coupler, you should measure that too. Go to the supermarket and buy a six pack of comfort and acetone to clean the nozzle.

Fabbulicious!! I am glad that this thread could help someone. I will update the summary. Hey guys don´t forget do see the summary on 1st page!! Congratulations to mr. Fabbtastic, your printer rules!!! Oh well... the filament too.

Guidewire= filament guide=OK "I finished creating my own charger now I Riding images later. Let 2h time to finish the last part" So you are finishing to print your new material feeder and you will upload some images later. Hope you can solve your problems. I look forward for new developments/findings... Bonne chance

Hi Geeks, Many thanks for the pm it helped to understand better the problems that you have experienced. About temp flutuations, I think that your temp sensor is OK. It's normal to observe a flutuation of 1ºC or 2ºC especially when the fan's turn on. If you had a defective temp sensor it should give you a error and it's not the case. So please check in cura the cool settings (expert settings), aren't your fan's turning on before the 5mm height? fan full on at height: 5mm fan speed min: 100% fan speed max: 100% min speed: 10mms About your printed material feeder, I think that can be better than the original one, since you can adjust better the tension in to the filament, however I am having sucess with the stock material feeder. I know that you received today a new teflon coupler, I don't advise you to drill the teflon coupler but you should check the inner hole of the new teflon coupler. I think if you go over 3.1mm you will destroy it. Also check the bowden tube tip's, if they are in some way crushed you should cut the tips to avoid jams or friction Do not overtighten the 4 screws on the print head In my opinion the filament guide on the back can cause a lot of friction, bended filament which also causes underextrusion, try to install the filament guide near to the feeder material in such a way that helps straighten the filament entrance to the material feeder. Ian's material feeder is also a good extra since it has also a filament guide If you are going to install the teflon coupler don't forget to check the inside of the nozzle and maybe you could clean it with acetone hey if you have trouble to understand anything, just tell me and I will translate and send you a pm. As I told you in the pm I think it should be better give you the answer in english because it can help others in the future.

Hey Geeks can you send me a Pm with your last post but in French? Thanks

I will include you on my prayers. unity makes strength... ...but I am suspicious that god does not pay much attention to Irish and Portuguese people

Hi Geeks, Did you already made the extrusion test? Should I add you to the "problem list" ? Thanks

Hi George, Very nice job indeed, awesome synopsis Congratulations.

Yes you did and you proved that decreasing the current consumption it will decrease the board temperature I am sorry George but you "cheated" the test when you decreased the motor stepper current, this will generate less temperature. "It is a matter of common experience that a conductor, when carrying current, becomes hot after some time. As explained earlier, an electric current is just a directed flow or drift of electrons through a substance. The moving electrons as they pass through molecules of atoms of that sub- stance, collide with other electrons. This electronic collision results in the production of heat. This explains why passage of current is always accompanied by generation of heat." If we increase electric consumption this will generate more heat I measured with a calibrated probe sensor (not IR) during the extrusions tests and I got this values: rom temp:22ºC Idle: 22ºC end of heating up: 37,7ºC 1 layer: 47ºCºC 3mm3/s: 74,0ºC 4mm3/s: 74.1ºC 5mm3/s: 80.8ºC 6mm3/s: 85.1ºC bla, bla,bla 12mm3/s: 87.1ºC However I have to agree with you it seems that underextrusion (Stepper motor skipping) is not because of an overheated board, but I certainly will go to ventilate my board since its achieving high temps and this can deacrease the life time of some components :cry: maybe a bad sleep night? My printer works fine too, but I want to help others solving their problems Didn't understand how you tested the motor current? I am sorry maybe my english is not so good so I don´t know what is the server controller, maybe you meant the stepper controller? but if it was that I cant understand how you tested? In my opinion to test well the knurled sleeve and the feeder material it should be on normal working conditions with the filament on the stock spool holder Don't bother to repeat the tests because will not get you anywhere...

Humm... I can make a few more tests, since I still have the temp probe installed and the board is accessible. However I don´t know how to make the tests since the litle bastard is always geting the 12mm3/s sucessfull even with a half empty spool. So if I tighten again the 4 head screws to generate under extrusion I think that this test wouldn´t be accepted, at least for me... Maybe MostlyAtomicBob or Woofys or other person with severe underextrusion problems? Right now my printer fails at 13mm3/s but this is normal. any sugestions to the tests? Additional note: I ordered a sensor current, so when he comes I can play a bit with that and maybe we can cross some data

Hi Sigi, You are a dangerous person, we leave you alone for a bit and you appear with extraordinary things... Congratulations, I really like your excavator.

Hi Robert, I am not sure, but I think you are right. I can't figure out any other reason. At the moment, I continue to have success with the extrusion tests at 12mm3/s so I am very pleased with my printer is finally well tuned Hey Woofysplace, maybe its time to send your printer to UM !?

Hi Aaron, I loosened the 4 screws the most I could but keeping the black plastic snugly fit together just not too tightly

Hi Guys, I found that if you overtighten the 4 headscrews this also causes under extrusion. I loosened the 4 head screws and now I can achieve 12mm3/s even with a half empty spool. Try loosening the screws as far as it can, keeping together the plastics. (could be necessary to re-calibrate the bed)

Oh man... can I click two times on "Like This" ? Hey Aaron, if you want to came to Portugal I will get you 2 girlfriends and four cats!!

Hi Markus, Please don´t do that, I am very curious about your weekend/future tests. I am so sorry if Aaron and I hijacked the thread jabbering about some theorys, it wasn't intentionally. You told us that you only will make more tests on the wekeend so I was just "jabbering" until receive more news about your testings. So... please continue the awesome work and share with us, because no body will make fun of you even that in the near future you realize you were wrong. Most honestly, I do like your modifications and apreciate your commitment and sharing Cheers

Hi eberle Welcome to Ultimaker forum. What sort of printer do you have? You can always contact Ultimaker and order a new limit switch

hypothetically speaking that the problem were the resistors out of spec due to heat, increase the motor current should be a temporary fix, this will generate more heat and eventually will damage the resistors permanently to the point where increasing the current won't work anymore. If the problem is a weaker stepper motor, increasing the current could solve the problem.

Why? I'm very pleased with your results. Your spool holder is very usefull to avoid under extrusion on longer prints. I printed one for my printer, but I am not using it just for test purposes, otherwise is one of my printer bests friends.

Hi IRobertI Thanks, that is very important data. For you, increase the current delivered to the motor solved the underextrusion. Congratulations, you have the best and most beautiful printer on the market. (I love your spool holder) :wub: Damn, it seems that UM2 underextrusion problems are becoming a urban myth. Only 3 users reported problems