lennart-bruggink

Thiago, Can you confirm that it is not caused by support structures being knocked over? If you added the support in Meshmixer, I would advise to make thicker support beams, and more om them. IMHO your support structures are not capable of carrying the load and the extruder head hits the print, showing some sort of displacement in the print. More clear pictures would be appreciated. Regards, Lennart

heh, anything going through it Seriously though, I agree everything is just too good. Yesterday My girlfriend asked if I could fix her closet. Of course 3D printing can! result: PS. I noticed that a horizontal top layer, Colorfabb XT needs more than 0.8mm shell thickness. Anyone can acknowledge? Aw yiss this is awesome! The only problem is where to pick the parts up. I really laughed more than I should after I saw you writing this, and then looking at the picture! Thanks for making my day Cheers!

Hey Sigi, Actually, it's form a site which offers a "sort of free with a limit" ( 10 a month iirc), it is made by Autodesk Premium ( user?). have a look over at: http://www.123dapp.com/123C-3D-Model/Bill-Clinton/865700 I just saw that the user created over 15000 models.. even parts like the liver, colons etc. Dig in my fellow printy buddies! I see 3D model loot!Yarrr! But I digress.. Thanks for the interest! Cheers!

Heh, Well it is not an arc reactor that I made.., but nevertheless again stunned by the quality the machine delivers: It was for the husband of the mother of my girlfriend, who's into american president..stuff.. Any how, I painted it, but forgot to take pictures. I used Meshmixer to generate support so that it could be tilted about 30 degrees and the chin could be printed without support. Cheers!

Heh, Strike a pose! Actually, now that you can create your own comb, you could make it fit your own head;) Round comb.. It should not become any crazier! It looks like a model made with a DLP blue resin printer! Very nice! I think I'm going to do another try at something i wanted to do before: model/simulating water bouncing of an object and capturing it for 3d printing. Maybe blender can do that, any other ideas? EDIT:this is not as easy as I thougth. I can make a brick explode, but I cannot make a fluid..hmm Cheers! Lennart

Hey Ian, What did you use for design software? Great print! ( foehnstrum, heheh also great print ) cheers! Lennart

Hi guys and girls, I have got another Braddock- inspired work in progress. A print I made earlier needed to get a nice finish and I wanted to do something cool with it. Braddocks awesome metal finish looked...awesome.. on the were-chihuahua, so I wanted to make a start/test with it and bought some bronze paint, primer and patina. In the pictures below the patina still needs to be applied, and also a second coat, but hey, it looks very nice! (especially with flash;) ) Eye candy: Cheers! Lennart Edit: my girlfriend said: "It is like a christmas ball.." Thanks..

It's a cool idea to have your own home as a model! That is going to be worth a little project when i'm done doing Rhino;) Cheers! Lennart

Last print i made: I wanted to have my prints somewhere where i could see them more often. So I thought this would be perfect! I love my digital calipers for measuring! Cheers! (ps sorry for the bad quality photos)

Nudge nudge wink wink say no more say no more! It came out a beautiful print, thats for sure;) Cheers!

Wow Facere, Big problems with your printer! Good that you found help at the forums! I Have a Question for the mods on this one though: Would removing the print head and placing it in a bath with acetone help dissolve ABS inside the print head? (I have not removed the printhead myself though, so I'm not sure if this would be a possibility at least.) Cheers!

Awesome! What studios are you working at? A Nephew of mine works at Guerilla games studios, I think thats really awesome. I believe he's Head of the lighting team. I wish I could do something similar however, first just do some rough designing with Rhino/zbrush etc to see what I can make that can also be used to print! Also, You are forgiven the rant at the start of your post, I agree , My UM2 was also not directly working out of the box, but the problem was quickly fixed and like you, love the quality of printing! Cheers! Lennart

Well, The feeling IS awesome.. you could always design something so complex, that no-one would be able to think of it ever being made, like braddock's were-chihuahua and finish it properly. Yesterday I was really happy because I got positive feedback on my first welding blacksmithing workpiece of making damascus. Happy days! Cheers! Lennart

ooh another print! As of 2013 i have an "Awesome-jar" in which I collect all the fun/awesome stuff that happened over the year. so naturally, a 3D printed up-grade! It's not perfect, but I designed, and printed it myself so I'm very proud! Also, it is Colorfabb red, which is a very nice color! Photoshoot: Cheers! Lennart

Hey Ian, That's a bad wound! Is it better by now? Ironically thought that you put this post in "The Art of Printing".. But to be honest, When I printed my Rammus Figure, I also had to use a sharp knife ( because I had no other tools available) and Cut myself twice.. ..within ten minutes. The donkey never hits himself twice on the same rock! (yet another dutch saying) Cheers, Lennart

And that's why i've bought an UM2 Keep up the good work! Cheers, Lennart

Hey Cor, I like the beam next to it, It was iirc to let the layers cool down okay and to get a good top finish, is that right? Cheers! Lennart

Hey Zax, here's my 2 cents on what could have happened: My Ultimaker2 did roughly the same, but with the x axis instead of y. I found that my problem was fixed then i adjusted the "clicker", which resets the position so the printer knows what the 0- position is. Long story short, I believe that during transport, the clicker got loosened/ deformed just enough to let the zero-ing mechanism ( in my case moving the printhead to the left) disfunction. After deforming a bit and adding some tape ( see one of my other posts) the zero-ing went well and printer was functioning properly! I think that is what happened with your printer, but then at the z-axis. However, This problem could indeed originate from firmware, since my guess is that it is designed to start to go down in the first attempt to reach the "zero- clicker". again, just my idea. Listen to the mods

Alright! After some hours fiddling, finally done! My best print so far! Also the longest. The support I removed by using a knife heated in a waxine light ( improvising!) and cutting through it, Then removing it with small tool. Only the knees and the face are a bit off, the rest is exactly awesome. I really Love my Ultimaker! ( in a metaphorical way, don't get any ideas) Showtime: My brother is the lucky bastard who is going to receive it Cheers and keep making awesome stuff! Lennart Bruggink

hah maybe i'm equally dorkness, because i know what an ultralisk is..

How long was the print? the last one i did was 16 hours, but Really nice!

Now that you mention it, I have scaled up the print to twice the size in Cura, not in Meshmixer, this makes the supports effectively twice the size. Anyway, the layer height was 0.1mm, the diameter 1.6mm. Actually, pretty much standard I believe except layer heigth the key is to add your own support. printed with Brim in cura @ 35mm/s err, what else do you want to know?

aaand a latest update on a print: a league of legends character called Cho'gath: After Illuminarti's dragon post i'd changed the supports with meshmixer and this is the third print. Still need to remove the support, but until now only the knees are broken a little. ( lets hope i dont screw it up an break the part.

Hmmm nuggets.. gonna print me some chickin' nuggets (ah that lovely futuristic sound).. It would be nice to have some sort of direct watermarked overlay of all the functionalities, directly when you edit ( for people like me who want to rush into it . I think from the forums here we can make some kind of preset for selection which is best for the Ultimaker ( 2 ), ask the guru's (them moderators) if they are willing to help. I have noticed that the print I have done this night was too poor in thickness of support beams. ( ~0.5 mm is not good! I got a bit too optimistic on that one. Next time i'll keep to 1.6=>3.2 when scaled up double). There were a lot of beams that were ticking and some were flipped over. The print is almost finished though: Cheers! Lennart

Yeah, those are the ones ( dragon supports) which made me think that it should be possible to use the support again and that I try it again. AAAnd off course the video you just showed me had a part in which it said how to add more beams.. I feel stupid yet happy that I discovered it "RTFM" Cheers! Lennart