lennart-bruggink

Hey everyone! I know I may have missaid things about meshmixer, however one very useful tip that changed my mind ( today!) about it, is that when you do not like the auto generated support, you can add support beams YOURSELF! (I overlooked it at first, but Some may know, some don't, which is why I am saying this) My print failed after three hours, so I was going back to the drawing board. I thought i'would add support myself in Rhino, but thenI got tired about that and thought there must be another way. I was randomly clicking when the support was shown to be generated in meshmixer, and then I discovered it! (sorry for my enthousiasm, but I feel like finding my own Holy Grail (and of course getting past that terrible bunny:movie reference!) So yes, No more knocking over support beams! left click and drag to show a beam, shift click for placing it. click on a spot to do a vertical beam. Cheers, Lennart Print where I discovered it:

Yeah Braddock, I'm facinated too, tell us ( if you have not already done so) What is your background? Painter/ modelmaker/ artist (obviously artist)? And where did you get the knowledge from? It's awesome!

In My last job i have seen a 30 tons polymer extruder having 5 planetray gears, keeping the middle axis in perfect center position. It would be fun to try to alter the model to do this!

Heh Cool that you and everyone on this forum fixed it! Now print sumthin Beautiful! Nah just kidding, Actually I feel this is a case of: If something is complex and difficult, it is solved fast, If something is obvious but also easily overlooked, it takes many minds a long time. (we dutch have a saying on this, but the translation to english are never good. Like :One must not pick old cows from the waterstream) Cheers, and good luck printing!

Just thinking out loud here, that's all. (You have probably done loads of prints, whereas I have no feeling (YET) for making an assumption if it would matter. Well anyway I have not been the one standing next to the printer with a stopwatch to measure time per layer) As I have learned from another post, it's beneficial against cupping too (iirc). So all in all, I had a thought twist and off course didn't know enough of the current functions to be able to say anything decent about it. I like it that you (or anyone) answer though! Cheers Lennart

Following. I find that the default support is sometimes easy, sometimes difficult to break off. As I was a bit prejudiced on the meshmixer support (but love the printed dragon from Illuminarti), I hope to see some more pictures on prints. Please share! Cheers, Lennart

Dat dragon Wow.

The Colorfabb looks really good! I'm glad that Gijs (Houdijk) talked about it at the 3D hubs meeting However, I first want to get to know my printer ( UM2) better before I go to other Filaments. I am actually sad that there is no HIPS yet, It printed beatifully when shown at the 3D hubs! I also heard the fumes were not so good, but that needs confirmation. Cheers! Lennart

Indeed I know the existence hereof, which I like However If I understand it correctly this mean that it lifts/moves the head at any layer (depending on your print of course). I agree, the cool head head lift solution solves more than one problem, but perhaps at the cost of speed? I do not have the evidence to back it or turn it measurable, however. Cheers, Lennart

A lot of people first get the problems with the last extruded blob ( including my nose in one of my scanned head prints:( ). The answer to this problem was as Illuminarti said printing multiple copies, and the cause being the printhead in its vicinity. Is it possible for such problem to be incorporated in Cura's Slicer? Maybe as optional setting that the extruder homes/ lifts etc when layer time becomes too small in the end? I guess this also would make stringing an issue, but i'm not sure if that would be better or worse than a solution as proposed above. Still, I'd like to see a sticky post, which describes several known issues. Cheers! Lennart

Thanks for the idea! Any post processing related idea is welcome. I think though its not so handy to oil it if you want to paint it later. Cheers! Lennart

Ok, Prints are fine actually, had some issues which seemed to relate to warping afterwards. Also some sagging issues, but I do not know if they will improve with tightening this clip. I was worried However that it would decrease retraction effectiveness. When I find the time, I will tighten it for good measure and check check doublecheck. Thanks for the replies! Cheers, Lennart

Hi Dim3nsoineer, My first guess would be to modify the model, perhaps enlarging or making it smaller (putting it on a box?) of maybe tilt it in another direction. If the position of the line should lower for a heightened print, its has got to be Z-axis related, If the line persists at a higher print, I would relook to the slicer (even thought you tried multiple slicers). OR I have read that you have printed in different directions with always the same side being pointing out. Having had a thread recently on warping issues, could it be that this is the first line to be laid down, and then it being to hot when the second line in the same direction is being laid down, causing some sort of a warp outwards? I hope it is food for thought, Cheers, Lennart

Don't forget to look at the troubleshooting forum when you are first printing, to see how you can improve your prints. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/forum/28-troubleshooting/

So one more check if I get the idea. Printing with a sort of "heat dissipation" column next to the object would increase the accuracy of the layer by offering it a better cooldown, not just because there is more time to cool down, but because the print head is not in the direct vicinity of the layer anymore. ...(processing).., Wouldn't that mean that an isolating coating (just thinking out loud) in the downside of the head would also lead to a "faster cooled" layer, and thus a better resolution? Or would more isolation on the head mean overheating of the head? Cheers! Lennart

The glue idea is really good. I have tried it ever since and for the lower levels it just.. works! I also use the brim, with which I can tune my height just a little if needed. Another question comes to mind: the bed temperature is a standard setting each time (75°C), and I cant seem to change it on my UM2 for every print, only for the individual( already forgot it a few times). Is this solvable with hooking the UM2 up to Cura ( usb?) And perhaps where to find it on the forums? Meshmixer is great, but I have seen it go through a model, not being sliced correctly and not being removed correctly. I will try it in future prints to verify my prejudices! Glue is good . Manual putting it down, not so good I have designed a simple front end cover that I want to Lasercut from (perspex?) at Fablab Eindhoven. I'm planning on releasing it here with some pictures, if it comes out nicely. The top however is more difficult to close. Moving parts, duh. Two or four roller window shader-ish things woulld do, but they will put some force on the axis. For the temperature of the bed , see my reply on Illuminarti reply above Fan can do: so off when "cupping" on when straight. That is not too hard to remember ( however to do it after you remember it is a different thing) 40°C, if I can find a thermometer anywhere I will check what the temperatuer becomes when I have the cover installed. At last, as always, Thanks for the replies It is good that these advices are documented/written down. Perhaps It is good to make a sticky post with Known issues and how to prevent/solve them. Sounds like a good idea? Cheers! Lennart & Happy Old Year! PS: Remember to make (Read: design and print) an "awesome jar for 2014, in which you put a note of every event that was awesome! My (regular boring) glass jar for 2013 is to be emptied soon!

This is very nice info! Thanks for sharing!

Hi Guys! My turn! My last Print is... https://www.dropbox.com/s/gx86uscxmgz14mm/2013-12-28%2022.35.12.jpg'>https://www.dropbox.com/s/gx86uscxmgz14mm/2013-12-28%2022.35.12.jpg'>https://www.dropbox.com/s/gx86uscxmgz14mm/2013-12-28%2022.35.12.jpg'>https://www.dropbox.com/s/gx86uscxmgz14mm/2013-12-28%2022.35.12.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/gx86uscxmgz14mm/2013-12-28%2022.35.12.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/pid8y79rydvxnhw/2013-12-28%2022.35.37.jpg ..Awesome! The mesh was made with a scanner at a fair in Veldhoven. I had to spend some time making it better, but the result is superb! (not forget to mention the help from the guys at this forum to tweak the printer, it can be improved, but i really like it already;) ) Cheers, Lennart

But wouldn't that mean that you can change it with the layer wait function? Or is this not similar?

Has the "trick" already been revealed? I'm sort of Curious..

I found this in an older post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ Do you think my problem could be a heating problem? I can relate to the cruling upwards of the print. Howeeevar: my fan is always on at 100%. Sometimes I do this at less than the first five layers.

Hello World, I have already printed some models on my recently obtained Ultimaker2 ( with PLA, check my other posts), But I have come across some issues regarding to support and warping, and ask for some advise. What I mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nvtyhm3xevfv89s/2013-12-27%2018.20.46.jpg Where the part from the yellow arrow should be as the white arrow, however is nocked off of the support material, presumably through warping and the extruder hitting it (literally, no pun intended). I see that the prints that I have made already also have the issue that when printing, the outer edges seems to bend upwards, and when the extruder goes over it, it nocks it over. Either the support is not very "supportive" and it should be encasing the structure more, but then i have the issue that the next picture shows: Breakage when removing/ difficulty when removing. https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2v93cp8ucvyw5s/2013-12-27%2018.50.00.jpg adjusting support cannot (yet) be done properly, as neither Cura nor Kissslicer are that customisable by me. Or The heat settings should be optimized regarding to warping. What are my options: Cooler extrusion temperature for a more rigid PLA layer? Slower printing does not seem to be very effective ( tried it at UM2's onboard settings, 100% to 50%, still too fast?). Create another suppert structure: will rafts/brim be better than the current support? Minimum speed (under Cool settings in expert settings) : 10 mm/s. Higher?Lower? Any more? I will also try GR5's settings ( for original UM that was IIRC) from his post at http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality/ 2) To minimize stringing (I had none. No cleanup!) I set temp to 190C (and enabled retraction and set retraction expert minimums to 0mm) 3) To get good quality at such a low temp I did 20mm/sec (I normally print at 100mm/sec) or at least at lower speed 4) I did 3 shells (1.2mm shell) to keep infill or other stuff from making the outer edge ugly. instead of 0.8 settings of Cura:13.11.2 ( if it should help) As always, Thanks for the help!

Severely guilty of this, especially since my ultimaker2 is still in its tweaking phase. Happy Holidays!

Hey Jet, It was really cool seeing you ( Propshop ) show off at the 3D print expo in London! Give my regards to Amanda Darby! Cheers, Lennart Bruggink

Hi All, I have a video of my UM2, which shows the printhead during retraction. https://www.dropbox.com/s/r4tcqwzaq39j5lq/2013-12-24%2013.41.39.3gp Is the up and down going white and blue cap behavior normal? Thanks! Lennart