cleven

I increased and decreased by about 0.5mm on a 10m thread. Was able to do male and female with out having much of an issue. The male thread is more difficult but you really need to design thread reliefs in place.

the tag is what's needed but all pretty much come up. A lot of stuff added. The ones who decide what's useful are the youmagine team. Remember there is more to the useful as in the way you present the object too. As in photos, size representation/scale and other info. It's a hope to take the novelty out of it. I wish they had more of a commercial section that can be added by admins. Such as standard screw sizes and or fixture sizes. Etc. like how say you would want to setup a store but it's shared files . Screws on isle 8! Past the light fixtures.

It would work, but it can use up a lot of cpu/memory to have a lot of threads on most cad programs, Especially in larger models and assemblies. Seems why they just fake represent threads in their program settings. For softer materials I think there is different tolerances for taps etc but it works if you take your time wih nominal sizes.

Wow, so close. Im just off westgreen and I-10. I'll pm you with my contact info.

When I mentioned Apple and the larger tech companies im talking during startup times. This is 1970-80s. You cannot compare ultimaker to any of these companies, they are massive matured Giants. Where they outsource their care. If I have an issue with my iPhone i go into an Apple Store in person. Try having an issue with Apple and send an email it takes a few days for reply. most people call them directly by "phone" to speak to a customer care rep, or they go in store directly. you have to book an appointment before you go in if you want any help at all.. Simple fact is asking for an update nicely is different than freaking out about it

I think each printer is its own beast, as I have no issues now with grinding after this upgrade. I have had different small issues, but fixed them. With the screws I just bought new ones and cut them as required. On the tensioner, I had to make a countersink as it was rubbing against the back of the machine. I had an issue with wear, where the filament enters into the feeder. I had a small round smooth insert, and placed in and it fixed this . and if it wears again I can just print a replacement and pop back in.

I'm in Houston, if you want to see UM2 in person let me know, I can show you the ins and outs and you can decide if you want new or used from there. I'm away till January 4, but have no issues after that. I have it in my office in Katy.

I stated call or post on the forums, it isn't just via phone call. My point was with the phone it is instant feedback. Online is not. This is a growing operation and you're trying to compare it to the largest info tech company in the world? Samsung didn't start out making phones, they were a major corperation already. They had issues like any other when they were starting up 80+ years ago. I wonder how the support was with Apple on their first computers? if something broke you had little to no instant customer service from these companies when they started.

Review all the questions on delivery here sander replied to all and made things happen, when people have an issue they need to contact by phone. As others here have posted they got answers and service right away. It states on the website 4-6 weeks, if you don't see it or get a delivery status by 6 weeks maybe then you should inquire. Everyone expects an instant reply on automated systems it doesn't happen that way, if you want results you call, simple. The fact is, if you want to know the status call them by phone or post the question here by just asking nicely and not complaining (crying), otherwise if you use the automated system the reply may take a week or so. (As said here there is only 6 people handling this) I'm sure the other larger companies it would be nice to speak to someone in India to attempt at getting help. Jabipunk, there are lots of other printers on the market you are welcome to purchase and test their customer service, but when I called makerbot and even the parent stratasys I didnt get to speak to anyone. When I called ultimaker someone answered right away.

I have had great customer care, why rely on an automated system when you can simply call or write a question directly on the boards? You get an instant reply. When I wrote on the automated system I always got a reply it took about 5-10 days on average for a reply but they always responded. If you use the automated system you can end up in a long list of people complaining about everything. They will respond but you end up in a line filled with people asking about duel printer head etc. I've been in the design business a long time dealing with vendors and machine shops, never send a general email when you can call by phone or msg directly (on here) if it is a major issue. Speaking to someone directly always gets you that much further and gives you a greater insight. Simply crying and posting for not getting a reply in a week is crazy, the delivery time is stated on the main product page. When you send the ultimaker team msgs directly on the boards they go above and beyond helping. Even if the post is insulting in nature due to ones lack of patience.

Klausz has it right, the main thing to have if you would chose one would be extra ptfe coupler. You can get an extra nozzle which is nice to have if you get a clog but isn't as near as a problem if any as the ptfe part Note:I have printed over 1000hrs on um2 and I have yet to have any major issues other than the ptfe spacer (the printer still ran with the ptfe issue, I just had to print slower until I made a new custom one) Also for material go PLA, lower temperatures less deformation, better for the environment. But, it is nice to have varieties of materials. I stock extra materials that have better strength characteristics. I make the tests out of pla then move onto abs or nylon depending how it goes.

We do it, no big deal. Just how we roll :-D https://youmagine.com/designs/pocket-ratchet-set http://io9.com/nasa-just-emailed-a-wrench-into-space-1673194211?utm_campaign=socialflow_io9_facebook&utm_source=io9_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow

Patience is a virtu that is lost nowadays... Calm down everyone your printer will arrive when it is ready!

They are rubbish daid! But not much choice as it transfers over to them much of the time :(. Had issues before when I shipped dhl to usa with some motorcycle parts. They again beat the crap out of it as soon as they get it :(. The one mistake with moving to the usa... I knew I should have brought it on the flight :( Hopefully they can help but I basically need an entire new framework. All parts seem to function. it still prints but the bed is about .2mm out or more even if the 3 points are level :( it's ok if I print in the centre but to the right side it's not good :(

There are shipping issues too once you get over a certain size Price goes way up .

Well not much you can do really. Anyway I'm going to get new externals cut here out of alu plate and remake the machine. Hopefully this fixes fhe bent frame. It still works. But I cannot properly level the bed 100%.

Good to know. Thanks for the post!

The main reason for upsizing the was for the die insert. Im not too concerned with the female thread. That can be done with either size. Just reducing the hole eliminates possible shear. But give it a go to try and thread with a die on a small thin plastic printed part and you can then see the issue

This test was simply to be able to use a die to create male threads, I was having issues with tapping both male and female, and this is how I was able to get repeatable sucess. I printed at 0.1 layer with a 1mm wall thickness. PLA. Each machine may yield different results. As mine was beat to crap by the Postal Service here in the USA I cannot say if someone else will be able to obtain better results. It is up to them to test. I found this gave very nice results on the 10mm, sizes should be modified as tap/die size changes. It is up to you to figure out what works. I also said a cheap tap and die set this makes it available to all. If i wanted I would have jumped in the machine shop and grabbed a few of my sharp high strength taps or machined the male threads a threading machine or lathe

When printing it solid it isn't a problem to use standard size. But if you want to add threads in a large model printing it solid can take a while and isn't always needed.

Yes normally, and when I machine plastic I use helicoils but that isn't printed there are tolerance issues with printing. Otherwise you would just take the proper tap size drill and drill it out to be perfect. When you use the select the exact sizes I was having shear issues with the smaller bit sizes. Reducing the size of cut allows for ease of cut and extrusion of the plastic which ends up nearly matching the required size as he material plasticky deformed to fill the tap. .

(This test was simply to be able to use a die to create male threads, I was having issues with tapping both male and female, and this is how I was able to get repeatable sucess. I printed at 0.1 layer with a 1mm wall thickness. PLA) Since many threads are difficult to print I decided to test out a cheap tap die set. This allows for more complex printings and assemblies using either plastic or metal screws. Also have approximately a 1mm wall thickness if possible. Note that a 0.8mm thickness also functioned. Set the print Diameter to 0.5mm under the desired Major Diameter. Then set the Drill size to 0.5mm larger than set. These sizes allow for an easy cut and a 20% infill can be used. Any size under or over resulted in the plastic shearing. It can also be difficult to mount the die onto the OD. Place chamfers to assist in inserting and mounting tap and dies. The threads worked well, no issues. Works very well! I bought a cheap tap and die set and it worked well for plastic. STL file I used found here, an M10x1.5 was used.

I ended up doing just that right after I wrote the post. I wasn't able to do a test print until today but the print was a success! Fixed

Just got a new computer, added Cura, Updated the firm ware. Created a model printed the model, and noticed that it was around 1.2375% larger than the STL. In cura it is stating the correct major OD which is 80mm but it is printing much larger. I have not added any scaling. Currently running the newest Cura with the newest firmware. This also occurred with the newer cura and the older firmware. (I updated the firmware since I thought this may fix said problem). STL created with Solidworks 2015. The next could be something with the STL, but as in cura it is stating the correct size so I am unsure what could have all of a sudden started causing this problem. It maybe something simple, instead of me playing around for a few hours I will ask here in the hopes someone else had something similar. Any ideas??

Ouch would have drove up but just moved recently.