stu_le_brew
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Posts posted by stu_le_brew
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question 1, is it time to get a replacement teflon coupler?
question 2, when was the new coupler material introduced?
Q1 it probably is worth looking at it to check for wear and deformation, my last one lasted about 600 hours, but it depends on what print material you have been using. Higher temp material seems to cause more wear
Q2 new teflon coupler was introduced last spring (April/May) last year
I would also recommend its time for lubrication of all the rods too, I use thin oil on a cloth for the rods and grease for the Z axis
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We've had printers run for about 110 hours. We did add a UPS (Uninterupted power supply) between the printer and power, so we wouldn't loose the print in case of a power surge.
That's really impressive and ambitious, I turned a job down because it would have run for 50 hours, need to reflect on that perhaps next time
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suggest you try a bit slower say 50mm/s or less, also that looks like a very very big brim, but maybe its part of the print ?
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I agree, and am sorry to say the only reason I would buy filament from Ultimaker is if I needed some other printer parts (to share out the postage costs) like a Teflon coupler or new print head
Otherwise its Colorfabb all the way for me
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Every now and the side fans set themselves to 1-3% speed (but are actually off). I had set them to be on and at 100% in Cura and have reset them on the machine a few times now but after about 5 mins the set themselves back off... Any advice?
welcome to the forum
I would suggest you check the connectors to the fans by moving the black braided cable above the print head when they have slowed. If the come back to life you have a problem with these wires.
On my printer the wires eventually pulled out of the connector blocks (I think they are only crimped in), I had to resurrect my soldering skills, if this is the problem you will need to disassemble the print head to check the connectors
This may seem daunting the first time but its not that difficult really
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Hi Lance,
saw your post last evening, liked the bracelet design so much I had a go at printing it, first try one piece did not adhere properly to the bed on the first layer so I aborted.
Second attempt perfect with a little fresh pva stick glue on the bed at temp 60, first layer print head at 218 then down to 210 fans not more than 70%, speed about 40 for first layer then 50 for the rest. I checked progress at the and and slowed things down for the catch to about 30 and fans full on.
its impressed my wife with her morning cup of tea, hope this info helps you
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Would a ID 4mm OD 6mm tube like the one used on Repraps also work? And maybe even resolve some of the issues with real 3mm filament having too much friction in the 3.2mm tube?
no it will not work, I bought some (from China) and it pulls out of the coupler while printing, its best to source 1/4 by 1/8 inch
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Anders
I am late to this thread, but if possible I would love to get two to experiment with, can't find any mention of the cost I am happy to pay you of course
Stu
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plus 1 for the low friction spooler it helps a lot
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plus 1 to Didier's last comment, My print quality improved with changes to the filament feeder, I can understand your reluctance to modifying the printer, but I think if it as like buying a sports car and tuning it up to get better performance
The feeder I am using currently is http://www.youmagine.com/designs/2904 I find its good for all types of filament, its a design that I think would be well suited to flexible filament too
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I had lots of problems initially with woodfll from Colorfab, which I assume is similar to laywood my problems were greatly improved by increasing the layer height.
From memory it was more than 0.2 or maybe even 0.25 after this it printed very well, the finish is on the rough side anyway with woodfil - I guess its all about keeping the filament flowing at a good speed.
hope this helps
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first thoughts ,
print speed is too fast for the temperature, I almost always print at 50, with a temp of about 218-220, also your resolution is high, I get very excellent results at layer thickness of 0.10
strongly suggest you follow the links at the bottom of IRobertI's post they are really informative
bon chance
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need some basic information in order to help you, what printer do you have I assume an Ultimaker 2, materiel is PLA ?, temperature, speed, infill %, are you using simple settings or advanced
first thought is that the infill looks a bit sparse, so maybe try a higher value
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Well I have to admit that on reading the title of this post to being a bit sceptical, but the article is of serious scientific merit.
I need to reflect on better air circulation at least - thanks for the heads-up Printerfan
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really impressive idea, can't wait to try it
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As Kolia sugested just search for Ultimaker and you will be suprised ! for just the isolator http://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/1959140480.html that's €13.06 for two and free delivery. But be aware that its the 'old' material just Teflon but at that price !
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I am the guy who was always against Faberdashery but this may be a game changer !!
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I have today made a big step forward with a problem roll of clear PLA, it was down to the last 10meters on the roll and whatever I tried to print there was always random under extrusion, I tried changes to speed temp flow rate etc nothing worked
The solution was the filament was very tightly wound on to its roll and as it unrolled it seemed to remember the tight coil. UM clear PLA is a little stick and even with the reel on the floor (with a modified iRobert spool centre) it would come off in loops, this seemed to create some resistance to the extruder feeder. My solution was to warm the filament with boiling water and then straighten it before re-coiling onto a bigger diameter it is now printing with no problem at all
The feeder is not clicking at all, I always understood that this clicking was too much resistance at the print head, but it would seem that it can also be caused by some resistance at the input end of the feeder
:cool:
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bonjour izo2
are you using rafting ? its the only way to go with ABS, also do you have the latest firmware installed that's 14.09
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really great piece of work
just a thought - that would look wonderful in bronzefill !
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Printet ok on my 2 week old UM2.
you don't know just how lucky you are !!!
It too me several months before I could join the 10mm high club - but once there you have only to print all the time
congratulations - good luck !!
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.......... I am curious though as to how a bronzefill print sounds when it's dropped? Metallic at all or still pretty plasticy?
It has a metalic sound when knocked against a desk for instance, its a lot heavier than plastic,but it is more brittle just had a piece break in half never happened with the same item in regular PLA
still it looks great when polished up
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very impressive piece of work :cool:
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your under extrusion problem could be caused by a number of things, loosening the screws on the top of the print head can sometimes make a difference, just finger tight, the same for the four screws that hold the feeder in place (black bit at the back) in both cases the thinking is that if they are to tight they could cause some distortion which could effect the extrusion. The tension setting on the feeder should be set to minimum - thats the highest position there is a scale visible on the back and side of the feeder.
if the above doesn't fix things then I would recommend removal of the feeder and check inside for filament dust (from grinding the filament)
To remove the feeder you must remove the left white metal cover panel first (single screw on left side of printer) then the four screws that hold the feeder in place as you remove the last on the stepper motor inside needs support or it will drop. Check around the bearing inside the elbow (white piece) for dust, I even lubricate this from time to time
good luck
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I was also struggling to think what I had done wrong to be disconnected from my life line