stu_le_brew
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Posts posted by stu_le_brew
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In my opinion the Y axis stepper motor is suspect, you could try swapping the X and Y motors to prove this but thats a lot of work. I would reccomend you open a support ticket with Ultimaker
good luck
S
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I think the left to right limit switch is ok, but I wonder if the front to back microswitch is defective it may be worth checking that the cable to it has not been pinched behind one of the steppers, or maybe you could test the switch's function with a multi meter
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just a thought, you may try increasing the materiel flow rate by 20-25% too
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The whole printer seems to be making rough noises, its not clear how old the machine is, I would check the print head moves freely and maybe lubricate all of the metal rods.
You could try "home head" from the maintenance section from front panel, the printer homes to the left first then to the back
If the problem is a micro switch it looks like the one at the back (x axis) where you can see two screws back left, you should be able to hear it working or not by moving the head to the home position. The black block that the print head rod clips into at the back makes contact with the micro switch. no idea where you are located but you may be able to source a replacement switch locally, which could be quicker than getting a warranty replacement.
Its not to difficult to replace, I just re soldered a replacement and up and running
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starting to look like contamination on the Z screw, sugest try cleaning with a tissue while moving the print bed up/down - look for dirt on the tissue after
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its always important to get a good first layer down I often choose 30-35mm/s depends on many other factors though
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its really hard to describe sounds in words - so here I go the z axis is like a "bzzurt" sound and of course will be at the same point as each new layer is started.
The other sound which would be from the extruder feeder is more like a "tock" sound, this would indicate a potential problem with the filament getting to the print head. You do not seem to have any under extrusion issue here though so it looks OK
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looks like possibly a print bed height issue - try re leveling the bed, also try slower for the first layer
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you can also alter the speed of the fans from the front panel of the printer during a print run
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I would also sugest checking the two side fans on the print head, they should com on a few layers into the print.
I had a problem like this from the start when my printer was new (two years ago !), the real problem when you are new to this game is that you do not know what the printer should normally do, it took me ages to understand that the fans were my problem
and by the way - welcome to the forum
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Jobs did come back to Apple (after he left or was pushed out) and make it what it is today, wonder what Bre's plans are for the future
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congratulations @ffreak I can still remember how frightened I was at the begining to take things apart, the new heater is a great improvement
good luck
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this will be of interest
Ultimaker-2-Comparison-sheet.pdf
I should acknowledge this is the work of Didier Klein http://www.ideato3d.be
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It's the Olsson block.
So the stell nozzle still fits.
But I guess the default will still be a brass one.
from what I have seen the new machine comes with four nozzles 0.25, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8mm
the Stainless nozzle from 3DSolex is 0.5 mm
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I do hope you think throught the upgrade option
as I already have an upgraded heater and Olsson block but I am very interesed in the new geared feeder and maybe the fan shroud tooExtrusion upgrade available to convert their Ultimaker 2 into an Ultimaker 2+. The Extrusion upgrade will be released later in Q1 in 2016.congratulations on a good evolutionary step
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@IRobertI you are correct of course but this trick works better when the background (white in this case) is printed with the letters subtracted from background and then print using "z hop with retraction", otherwise the letters can be smuged at the edges
its very impressive I think
@gr5 - also see my example belowhttps://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/1675-andy-s-screw-box
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well, given that the mentioned site for glue says:-
Precaution:Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is a permanent adhesive. Components you attach with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever.
so should you ever need to change the stepper motor you will have to buy a new heat sink.
I personally would use thermal paste - if you heve ever had to remove a heat sink from a CPU thats been secured with themal paste (I have many times) you will know it sticks down pretty well.
Themal paste is what I would use but its up to you - good luck
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any glue used to fix a heatsink to the CPU of a PC will be OK
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glad you soted it out
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my first thought would be that one (or more) of the pulleys have come loose, you need to check all of them
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I also got the notification
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This is just the start of your learning curve (I am guessing you a recently starting with UM2 from your number of posts) you knowledge will grow,
A couple of things you may want to read up on are "atomic" clean (of the print head) and look at improved fialment feeders that you can print
welcome to the forum and good luck
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TGlass can be prone to some warping at the corners of a print linked due to poor bed adhesion, so I usually use a glue stick.
It seems to be more clear when prining at lower temperatures and with thin walls, but it seems better to get it flowing with a higher temp, I usally start at 220+ and drop to 212.
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nice piece of work - welcome @Guys
Does anyone already have installed the Bondtech Extruder/Feeder?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I have just received my Bondtttech extruder, I am half way through instalation, should finnish at the weekend -- can't wait