stu_le_brew
-
Posts
302 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by stu_le_brew
-
-
Here in Europe stuff shipped from @Swordriff at http://3dsolex.com/ is generally shipped by post so its very fast and so far for me 100% reliable.
This contrasts greatly with my poor experiences from Ultimaker (and others) using big commercial carriers like DHL and UPS
Love your architectural model of a house too
-
I have just re-read your original post can you confirm the first two prints worked OK, since then have you
- changed the design and it now does not print
- it fails to print the same file
if its the first then its a problem with the software/design if its the second its a problem with the printer
question are you sure the two cooling fans are working correctly at the top part where the failure is ? I assume its the same filament
- changed the design and it now does not print
-
just had a thought - are these items printed on different places on the print bed, I would assume you are printing several at once if so I wonder if the stainless steel rods need oiling ?
its worth trying moving the print head manually to feel for any roughness especially in the area where poor prints are done
-
one additional observation, the gap between the bottom of white teflon coupler and the stainless steel part (with holes round it) is too small it should be 1-2mm, this is adjusted by turning the stainless part with the heater at say 150 degrees - take care its quite fragile
Its not clear from the picture but it could be that filament is coming out between the bottom of the stainless bit and the brass print head block
-
2
-
-
have you tried looking at each layer in Cura using the layer view ?
-
one other thing to add to the possible causes of the problem is if the filament is near the end of the roll some filaments seem to remember being tightly wound on the roll. This can cause extra friction inside the bowden tube. Two solutions to this simply change the filament reel or second as I have done a couple of times you can warm the problem reel in water (at 80-90 degrees C) and wind the filament onto a larger diameter container.
-
@ultiarjan @DidierKlein @stu_le_brew @SandervG
I think i have a damaged nozzle.
I dismantled it yesterday and used heat to clear a clog in it. I used a needle to remove the residue. I restarted a 6 hour print job and towards the end I started noticing underextrusion. The job finished but there was a clear differnece between the quality at the beginning and the quality at the end.
After the job, I wanted to continue another job but the filament was no more extruding. I disassembled the head again and removed the nozzle and used heat and needle to remove the residue but yet there was no extrusion. Instead, when the filament gets forwarded and reaches the nozzle, I hear a 'kink kink' sound. I have tried everything possible yet my nozzle is no more extruding.
What should I do? I have a job to finish before Wednesday. Urgent please.
Kelechi
The click click sound (or kink kink if you prefer) is the stepper motor on the filament feeder, it is struggling with too much resistance in the filaments route to the print head, It reverses direction momentarily to save grinding the filament or overheating.
you have to find out where the problem is, its most likely the white PTFE coupler is damaged, at temperatures over 250 its life is shortened. I would try "atomic cleans" first as Labern suggests, but if the problem continues see how easily the filament feeds into the head, maybe even dis-assemble it, some people have used a drill (3mm) to check/correct damage to the coupler.
I would encourage you to look at and "olssen block" upgrade and an I2K washer from Solex 3D (www.3dsolex.com) you may have seen that Ultimaker are including it now with new machines, I bought mine months ago its great for big fast printing and also for small very detailed work
hope this helps, 3dsolex also sell replacement PTFE couplers and are much faster to supply than Ultimaker
-
@stu_le_brew...that is lovely. You designed it? Let me share my experience today...I was doing a print with a filament and my nozzpe got blocked ( I was printing PLA at 260 degs).
I dismantled the printhead, took out the block and used an external heat source to clear out the blockage. I was a bit scared, I will not vet it right but when i assembled everything back, it started printing very well. I will upload the work once I'm done...
yes it's my design, done using 123D design
260 is very hot for PLA, it will caramelise at those temperatures, I would not print PLA over about 230 - if you are having problems printing its worth increasing the temp a little but usually there is some other problem needs fixing
sounds like you are getting more confident with fixing problems, I can still remember the fear I had initially to take things apart
-
1
-
-
just taken a photo of a recent print job for my brother, I thought it would be of interest to you @kelechi
[/media]Printed using an Olson block with a 0.60 nozzle, glow in the dark PLA using z hop when retracting - that is to say print the blue letters first then print the rest of the box lid around the letters
-
2
-
-
@all, I am working on separating the Teflon by 2mm from the coupler but the spring keeps pushing the teflon back. How am I supposed to do this?
be very careful turning the stainless steel bit as its quite fragile, and yes I have destroyed one once. if you get lots of resistance try more heat
-
I think this is a really great idea, the different nozzle sizes bring even more fun and flexibility to printing
-
1
-
-
just looking at the picture of your print head, a couple of things that I think you should take a look at:-
the fans on either side of the print head are to my eyes bent so that the airflow is down rather than down and towards the print head and point of print. Take a look take a look at any images on the UM website you will see the fans are more targeting the head - its simple to bend them back
second issue it the gap between the stainless coupler and the PTFE spacer it should be 1mm or slightly more
Multicolour prints can be such fun, I once tried 6-8 short lengths of filament (about 5cm long) in the bowden tube and printed an UM robot (this wont work with any retraction of course) really fun result
-
2
-
-
glad to hear that @Daid
-
try increase travel speed to 250 and drop temp by 5-10 degrees, as it says in the article mentioned by IRobertI
-
never heard of a nozzle cracked before, photo would help, need to understand where it broke
could it be that you tightened it too much ?
-
difficult to diagnose this, were you watching it all the time ?
if the print head gets blocked the printer does not know this and will just carry on printing, so if you missed the moment when it stopped it will just look like it s printing in the air above the print.
I would recommend you check the feeder (at the back) and try a "atomic clean" (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the) of the print head
-
I have seen exactly that recently - caused by too fast infill speed as others have suggested
-
could get some interesting effects on the bald bits with glow in the dark filament ! especially at Halloween
-
the new one from @swordriff is much superior to the UM2 original design, its a lot stronger
la nouvelle au swordriff est bien supérieure à la conception originale UM2, ils et beaucoup plus fort
-
is the picture upside down or is the UM2 inverted ????
-
I think it could cause problems, its not a problem to cut a short piece from the damaged end - you can do this a few times without creating problems
-
sad news, 16 years is a long time - condolences
-
clearly Labern types faster than me
not sure of your location, as the site mentioned by Labern is in US, my EBay purchased fan is from Germany,
-
from what I understand no its not possible, but on more recent models the fan only comes on at a certain temperature.
many others have complained about the fan noise, I have just ordered a replacement fan from EBay which is supposed to be quieter (approx 23 db)
Diagnosing issues with a print
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
To further test to see if you have solved the problem you could also try "cut off object bottom" set to 23mm so you only print the top problem part.
I have tried to download tour file but I could not download for some reason ?
If you look at the layers again in layer view and just change the layer height you will see it seems to spend more time printing the letters, so I suggest trying changes to layer height.