stu_le_brew
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Posts posted by stu_le_brew
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Like you I have recently installed an Olson block - very pleased with it too.
I would suggest you first try increasing the temperature to say 218-220 and see what difference that makes, also check the infill speed (in advanced settings)
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Yes, finally, after about 1.5 months, the forum shows back the signs of usability.
Thanks to everyone involved in reviving it.
@SanderVG - suggestion: Please unite all the "3D Printing in ..." topics under "Education" into one. It is more or less useless as it is now.
I agree completely, I was starting to completely loose interest in the forum, but this is a significant step forward (or do I mean backwards to be as functional as the old forum !)
@SanderVG a positive comment on the state of the forum at last
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I have had really good results from ColorFabb but I do not know if they distribute to US
good luck
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Hi harley573
you can changer the materiel settings on the front panel of the UM, click "materiel" then "settings", also here you can define your own settings
good luck
oh and welcome to the forum too
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Hi Nils
customised belt driven filament feeder (click here), I2K, plus a mod to direct more of the back fan at the teflon coupler, ColorFabb PLA. Printing at 218 and reduce the fanspeed down to 50%ish
The most important thing seemed to be adjusting the stainless bit (under the teflon) to be almost fully down to the Olson block, I think this lessened the heat loss from the end of the print head.
hope this helps
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Hi Swordriff,
your recommended print speeds / layer heigths are for fine prints. What would you recommend, maybe as a starting point, for a speed setup. As I mentioned before, my interest lies more in speed than in quality, since i am planing a lot of "post-processing" after printing.
Regards,
Nils
Hi Nils,
for your information I have just got my "olson block" working perfectly and have achieved amassing speeds with the 0.4 RSB - 100mm/s but I have backed off to 80mm/s !!
The prints are really good quality too
good luck
S
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Not 100% sure which part you mean, if its the part that holds the Bowden tube in place then you can get them from Swordiff's site (http://3dsolex.com/) - which is quicker and cheaper than Ultimaker
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it looks like you have some under extrusion on the skirt lines which is never a good start to a print job
for people to be able to help you you will need to post your settings eg materiel type, print speed, temperature (both bed and nozzle), layer hight .........
you could try an "atomic head clean" search here for details if that means nothing to you
welcome to the forum
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thanks for response please report back on how the print worked out
as valcrow has said you can make your own profiles, I did this for XT ages ago but the name is a very creative "custom 1" with no option to change it. With the latest firmware its possible to export/import profiles, I have done export and it leaves a file on the SD card called MATERIAL.TXT which is a very simple one line of text describing each of your settings - should be possible to edit and make your own profile - not tried it yet
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+1 to Swordriff' last comment - I do this every time I re-install the bowden tube as I usually do an "atomic" clean after each filament change. I think the end of the bowden tube wears where it is gripped by the white part (which has metal blades inside to grip the tube)
You can always cut a 8-10mm of the end without this causing a problem
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I would definitely get a spare PTFE Coupler as these wear out after a few 100 hours of printing - especially if you print above 230°C. Or better get yourself an http://3dsolex.com/?page_id=2 with and http://3dsolex.com/?page_id=17 that protects the PTFE coupler from the heat of the nozzle. That way you have a longer lasting PTFE coupler and the added benefit of cheap M6 thread nozzles with varying diameters.
Personally I have experinced 4-500 hours from a Teflon coupler, but that since I mainly use PLA, with just the occasional XT or ABS
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I have a vague memory of some problems with that version of CURA, recommend updating to the slightly newer release 15.02.1
I would always try support "touching buildplate" first its simpler and uses less materiel - then take a look at the layers view (top right image in CURA)
Its hard to understand your problem - pictures would help a lot
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sympathise for your problems, I had something similar earlier in life of my UM2, your problem could be in the connector plug for the two fans inside the plastic braiding, the wires seem to be just crimped on. The two fans are connected in series so if there is a connection error (which can be intermittent) then they both stop.
Suggest try moving the plastic braid while checking the voltage, if it varies this could be your problem
good luck
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to give you any pointers there is a lot of information needed, all items effect print quality some below:- print speed, bed and print head temperature, layer height, fill density...... what materiel are you using (looks like PLA)
plus what supports are you using if any, looks like not much ?
The bottom layer is generally speaking the most important, to get good bad adesion, are you using any glue on the bed ?
have you updated to the latest firmware on the printer plus the latest version on Cura
S
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anyone got any experience using the new FormFutura HD-Glass, I am particularly interested in how it compares to ColorFabb XT, it is supposed to print at 215-240
My first thought was that it may be re branded Taulman T-Glass but FormFutura sell that already so its clearly different.
its supposed to "lets 90% of the visible light pass through its fibre and has less than 1% haze" impressive claim
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It may be worth repeating the firmware update, maybe something went wrong ?
also a "factory reset" is worth a try
if that does not fix it then I would log an urgent support ticket - this is definitely not normal behaviour
good luck
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welcome to the forum
I would try using "touching buildplate" rather than "Everywhere" for support type
Also there are other parameters you can change if you select the box (with dots in) next to the support type button, apologies if you have already tried this
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It is indeed an M3 x 3mm, I ordered some from Ali in China some time ago for spares, make sure you order ones with a flat end not a point. The first ones I ordered had a tapered point and they do not work that well so I had to file the end to get better grip on the rod from the stepper motor.
The smallest of the three hex keys supplied with the UM2 fits, 1.5mm I think
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If your fan is changing speeds it's likely that it has a wonky connection. Move the wire mesh out of the way and check that the connectors have a solid connection. Also make sure that the wires inside the connectors are held in place properly, sometimes they can slip out of the connector housing. This will give you an idea what to look for.
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In my opinion it may be a doggy fan, as both of the fans that cool the printed piece are connected in series, so if its a doggy connection both fans would have speed changes
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Personally I have always viewed the fast setting in cura as only for prototypes, ie I am going to throw away after the test print.
Your pictures remind me of my early days prints, the problem turned out to be the two side fans had a poor/intermittent connection causing variable cooling (they are only crimped on to the connectors).
To check for this start a print job, while things are warming up you can use tune to turn the fans on (upto 100%) and then move the cables at the top of the print head - if the fans stop this may be your problem
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not sure I can visualise exactly what you are trying to print, but maybe you should try with support structures "touching build plate"
good luck, and welcome to the forum too
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I would increase the bottom/ top to 0.8 (or more) and you could easily increase layer height up to .06 - 0.10
you don't mention your print speed ?
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IMO the maybe top layer is not thick enough, and it could be some under extrusion in the body of the print, hard to see from the photo.
you should post all of your settings to help with diagnosis, also what extruder feeder are you using - the standard one ?
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Sooo tempted to do a mass ban just to mess with people's heads...
I thought you were one of the good guy - now I am not so sure - cruel idea
Printing Issue - Under-extrusion
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
+1 to colorfab being good filament - my preferred supplier