stu_le_brew
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3D Prints
Posts posted by stu_le_brew
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I have had my UM2 for three years, in that time I have never noticed any other colours than a greenish blue from the rotating control knob. I do not think that there is anything other than that colour, interested to hear other opinions though !!
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you can use the same liquid you use to wash dishes (plates etc) will work
I have found that the best improvement I made to my UM2 was to install a BondTech extruder feeder, after which flexible filament is very easy to print
good luck
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Hi ShailenP
welcome to the Forum
a limit switch is either open or closed, you can only meaningfully test it when its not connected to anything else e.g. the controller board of the printer
if the switch is isolated and you see a change of resistance then IMO the switch is broken internally
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that is really weird, as the Z switch is further down
worth trying the raise then lower the print bed to see if that does the same
also check that during the upgrade you have not trapped any wires, maybe somehow cut into a wire somewhere ?
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The rear fan depending how old your machine is works slightly differently, if its an early machine (like mine) it is on all the time more modern ones it comes on at about 40 degrees, so that should make it easy for you to check its function.
I have had many problems with the wire connectors for all three fans on the print head (the two side fans are wired in series), they are crimped on to a connector block inside the mesh at the top of the print head. So if you can get the rear fan working and you wobble the mesh if the fan stops then that is the problem.
In my case I have soldered all of the wires and that problem is now resolved completely.
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I used to be a big fan of 123D but it has limitations, I have just converted to use Fussion360 its taken me a few days to understand the interface, with many Youtube visits for tutorials but its really a very functional product
But earlier this week they took the cloud off-line for maintenance and I wrongly thought I had lost my work, that dinted my enthusiasm for a moment but I found the files on my machine so all is well
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Looks to me like seepage between the end of the Bowden tube and the PTFE coupler, when you put the Bowden tube back in place ensure that it is all the way home into the head
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While it can work, it can damage the shafts, also if it lands on any electronic component it can damage it. So yea, not recommended. But hey, even butter can work!
I have done a lot of research today trying to ensure I am using the correct lubrication product for my UM2, I have ordered some clear oil (marketed as Connex) which is very highly recommended for sewing machines
neotko do you have a source for your comment that 3 in one could cause damage to the shafts ?
I can confirm I have no plans to pour 3 in one on to any of the electronics or even butter for that mater
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3 in one is an lubricant only, it is not WD40
The company that owns the brand 3in1 is called WD40 Company hence the confusion
I have been using 3in1 on my UM2 for almost three years it is recommended for sewing machines, so I plan to continue using it, unless anyone knows better ?
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@SandervG did anybody already report the arrow at the right bottom of the page (to move to the top) does not work anymore?
Not in Chome on windows7, also not in chome on android.
No they did not, good call!
same for me with Win7 and Firefox, plus there is a support button also displayed there too which is confusing
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well done, its not too difficult after you have done it once, as you will see next time.
The only other council I would give you is to double check all the fans are functioning after the re-assemble as the connectors are not as well connected as I would prefer - I have soldered all of the crimped connectors on my UM2 fans
Also the temperature will be higher for materials other than PLA, so ABS I use about 120°C
good luck
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I wouldn't worry about feeling foolish here, most people have made simple mistakes this is how experience is developed
One thought I have had some problems with specific materiel - like HDGlass Form Futura which seems to change its characteristics at the hot end when cooled, so each time I give the filament a little manual encouragement to start flowing then it seems to work perfectly
- good luck
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you do not say what your machines is so answers will have to make assumptions !
My UM2 did work better with flexfill with a small amount of thin oil in the Boden tube, but it is now significantly faster and better with the upgrade to using the Bondtec extruder feeder (I also have an Olsson block installed).
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just for clarity, as you say you are not 'electronic savvy' running in series means the current goes through one first and then the other
If you were to look inside the black block of the print head you would see this is how they are wired, if a connection breaks both fans will stop working
hope that is clearer - good luck
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Hi Les,
Its a problem I had initially with my UM2, its caused by the collars/pulleys coming loose.
you should center everything then tighten all small allen/hex screws on all pulleys
should be a quick solution
good luck
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I agree, it changes the UM2 to be just press print and walk away (well after the first layer)
glad I bought it and not the much more expensive UM upgrade
It just works !!!
S
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@bob-hepple
I was also a bit puzzled but now it just works so I am happy anyway
Interestingly the new feeder will pull through end of reel filament that I had decided to throw away as the old feeder could not handle it, the increased torque is what it all about
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The Gcode is one file which you sort of tell the printer to print - it just changes the filament print rate and thats it, you just execute once and it writes the new parameter into the firmware of the UM2
the two lines are below:-
M92 E492.45
M500
you can just copy them to a file and give it a GCODE file type - job done
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Martin
Understood will sort it Saturday. will PM you Saturday.
What version of TinkerGnome are being used I see on GitHub v.16.01 is listed
@bob-hepple I would not worry, its not a dificult job to install - the results are simply incredible, I am using standard firmware with a simple two line paramater update GCODE file I got from Martin
It just works !!!
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I had a simlar problem which I concluded was caused by the filament 'remembering' it had been tightly wound on the reel - so only a problem for the last quarter of the reel, I proved this to myself by winding the fiament onto a larger diameter container and heating it in water near to boiling point. The fialment 'remembered' a larger diameter size and printed fine afterwards.
I have just last weekend installed the BondTech QR feeder system and its just amazing I can now print at much faster speeds with any nozzle size I like. The print quality is incredible, I have got upto 100mm/s speeds, it also works very well with flexible filament
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I have just installed the complete Bondtech QR and can confirm several things it really does a great job, it allows very fast printing (more than 100mm/s), high quality prints even at those speeds !
The gears are really well made, if I had the time (and more design skils) I would have gone the DIY route but it is an option I very much would reccomend
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You really do not need a 35W heater, the standard 25W heater does just fine, i ran my printer with one of the first Olsson blocks six months until getting one of the early 3DSolex 35W heaters last summer, and i was able to push over 10mm3/s reliably during that whole time with the 25W heater.
It is just a "upgrade item" wich makes it even better.
Me too, I only started to get problems when trying to use a 0.8 nozzle and very high flow rates, so then I ordered the heater upgrade
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....... ordered a heater from solex, and a temp sensor, but after what you said i may regret it. is their heater ok?
sad you have had so much trouble, my Olsson block upgrade (more than six months ago now) worked like a treat, and the different nozzle sizes work well. The more powerful heater is really great - it just works and is much faster to heat up
good luck
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is the motor turning ? you should be able to see this from the back of the feeder
or is there just no filament coming out of the print head ?
welcome to the forum, I would encourage you to update your personal info to include your printer model this will help with any answers, otherwise I guess people will just assume you have an Ultimaker
PLA and SCUBA
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Last year I printed a replacement skimmer flap for my (chlorine) swimming pool, its been installed for more than six months without noticeable degradation.
The only problem is that it goes green inside - caused by bacteria easily removed by bleach, I plan to re-print but solid this time rather than hollow (with infill)
My only other thought is that if you print anything which is hollow inside I suspect it will suffer from pressure, from my diving days the volume of air is half at one atmosphere depth, so the plastic would be damanged, so I would try solid (100% infill)
hope this is of interest