zoev89
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Posts posted by zoev89
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Didn't fill it in but here my 5 cent.
I own an enclosure. My opinion is that putting the printer with all the hardware inside an enclosure will cause overheating problems. The steppers will run hot and the electronics as well. I closed the printer area not the whole machine and placed the motors outside. Since electronics are at the bottom they still get fresh cool air. A enclosure only makes sense when printing abs. For pla it is not needed and it might get too hot.
When printing abs (110 degrees build plate) the air in the enclosure gets to at least 45 degrees.
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After some hacking here my first result. I needed to make adapter since head design is different. After 2 tries this is my adapter and my result:
The adapter is mounted on the 30mm fan of my hotend. The pen still has a little play. I also played with the ini file. I changed the minimum extraction before retract to 0. This to prevent travels without a head lift. Only the start and end travel still visible the rest is good. Getting a bitmap to print well is not so easy. The lines must be thick enough.
Update :16/3
Added my files on youmagine
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pen-holder-for-e3d-hotend
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Cura detects the doodle3d. I don't know how but the doodle3d can be configured to connect to your local wifi network and then by going in the browser to http://connect.doodle3d.com
you can see which doodle3d devices are detected. Likely there is a api description on how to access al this and then cura enables a wifi button on its screen. You can then directly print using that button. It transfers the gcode to the doodle3d while the printer is warming up. When all the gcode is transfered you can disconnect with the computer from the doodle3d it will continue sending the gcode to the printer. Note you must make sure that the doodle3d remains connected to the printer while the printer is busy :-P .
I just finished a 1.5 hour print using the doodle3d.
I think having a wifi connected printer has its advantages so you don't have use the sd card. The disadvantage is that when you want to print again you need to send the gcode again. If it was on the sd card you just could print it again without starting a computer.
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I don't know the answer but this is what I googled:
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell
Maybe adding that pauses your printer for a specified time. I guess you would like to write a pluging that generates the dwell time in the start code so it waits. Make sure that the hotend does not heatup during the dwell time, you don't want to have a warm hotend for a long time.
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With a 24V heater I think there would be possibilities but note you need to replace the 12V voltage regulator. Don't know about the other parts on the board and the steppers how they would hold out. I played save and added a 24V to 19V dc/dc converter. This is actually also what the upgrade kit for the heated bed holds. Capacitors usually are 16V or 25V rated so possibly 24V would fit but still it is quite a risk adding a small dc/dc converter is cheaper then buy a new board if it blows.
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Weet niet of dat op de um2, werkt maar een stukje draad van de juiste dikte werkt ook.
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Is de nozzle goed schoon? Als je een flow probleem hebt dan word de print grof. Dus ik denk aan gedeeltelijke verstopping. Check ook even of de temperatuur setting klopt, gezien het vast lopen.
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Kan je opmeten wat de maten zijn en wat het zou moeten zijn?
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Grappig idee, even kijken of ik een andere beugel kan verzinnen... Heb een andere print kop.
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Oef als je hotend blijft plakken dan is het wel heet. Je printe waarschijnlijk PLA in dat geval sluit ik mijn machine niet af maar in jouw geval doe je het vanwege de herrie en dat is anders. Bij abs prints sluit ik de machine wel af en kan het bij het hotend denk ik wel tussen de 40-50 graden worden bij abs is dat geen probleem. Tja daarom zie je ook wel eens e3d met water koeling....
Ik zou met ook zorgen maken om de electronica aan de onderkant want die word net zo heet als in de doos.
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I don't think the 67cm is very critical. My bowden is already shorter (2 to 3 cm) then that since one of the ends was damaged. I also printer with a significant longer bowden (80cm) this also worked.
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Don't know if it will work for you... You can try to pull it at a higher temperature to see if you can get something out. Sometimes I also need to pull at 100 or 110 degrees since at 90 it is stuck to hard. I also had 1 time that I pulled and it got itself completely stuck I needed to heat-up the cooler section of my hotend to get it out. If worst comes to worst you need to take the hotend out and burn the residue to get it out, but only do that once it is hopeless.
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In my enclosure I reach to 40 or 45 degrees measured at the top of the printer without an additional heater element. The heated platform of 240x240mm at 110 degrees warms it up to that level.
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Ik gebruik meestal een 0.3 eerste laag als er dan wat golf is is dat niet zo erg. Ik had een tijdje een krome as terwijl die draaide kon je het blok een beetje op en neer zien gaan. Je dat zelf ook controleren. Gewoon van af de controller move x or y en kijk of het blok waar de as door draaid op en neer gaat.
Weet je zeker dat je glas plaat recht is die wil ook wel eens vervormt zijn. Goede rechte lineaal op leggen en tegen het licht houden.
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I need to try this SwapAtZ plugin an see how it works. Since I did it with an editor I can see in the gcode if it does the right thing. Using this 2 steps I have been able to get a successful result.
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I guess I have found an intermediate answer. I created a stl with only the outer shell and print that with spiralize. And I have a stl of the complete object which I print with the normal settings to obtain the top part. Then I merge the 2 gcode files at a specific height reset the extruder (first try was without the reset to new lenght it printed a large blob and had some grinding). I just found out that there is a plugin merge at z that possibly does what I did by hand.
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Bumped into the zillions retractions as well due to the combing being translated to Off.... :oops:
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I try to make a barrel like object which is in principle a cylinder with a bottom (like a vase or a cup) and a thicker top. Whatever settings I try in cura I always get 2 passes on the sidewalls. When I try spiralize I still get 2 passes (inner and outer wall). When I try to design the barrel with thinner walls cura will skip area's. It looks like it will always print the inner wall and the outer wall. So how can I trick it to only print the outer wall. Only follow mesh surface does not do the trick since then the barrel will not have a bottom layer and also the top part is not filled in.
When I make only a cylinder then I can't design the top part which slowly converges to a thicker part.
So how do you design and print a vase?
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Ik zie het al ben record houder in weinig gebruik.. Meer dan een 1/3 rol zal het niet zijn. Ik heb ook veel tijd nodig om de dingen inelkaar te zetten. Ik draai geen hub dus dat is wel zichtbaar.
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I made the direct drive modification myself. I have been printing quite some hours with it. As far as quality improvement I don't notice that much. There is still backlash since the long belts are still there and possibly that is the biggest contributer. As far as the noise it does not make much difference. Sometimes there is less noice since the backplane of the printer does not vibrate with the motors and sometimes the high frequency pitch breaks through but that depends on the movement and the speed settings.
As far as the force that the motors need to apply the situation has improved. When I move the head around by hand I can feel it is a little lighter but there is still some drag due to the fact that one of pulleys is wobbling. Did not upgrade the pulleys yet. My impression is that the motors are running a little cooler since I did this mod. Having the motors on the outside also helps cooling since I also print ABS where I close the printer.
I switched the wires around so no modification on the firmware needed.
How easy is it to do. Well you have to have some experience with tinkering. If you don't like taking the printer apart don't do this modification. If you feel comfortable taking the axis out and change the connectors then you will be fine.
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I have been printing with 0.1 at 50mm/s without issues. Although later I had to lower it to 40mm/s due to a deformed teflon part (have been printing ABS as well which causes your teflon part to deform in the end).
So it beats me why you have such large holes in the print.
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What speed and layer height are you printing?
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Likely you need to switch the direction. This can be done by swapping 2 wires on the motor plugs.
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The promises are large. Implement your own slicer is not an easy task and there is no data that I was able to find how it compares against Cura or slice3d. And taking machine and material settings from a database does not sound attractive to me. There is quite a large variation in the same material causing you to print slower warmer or .. Also the model influences your choice in printer settings. If all is hidden...
My feeling is, too good to be true, show some evidence (but I don't jump on every development).
The concept of having a wireless access point from where you can print is very nice so likely this part will work well.
Doodle3d and starting a print
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I have a strange problem. When I have the doodle3d connected to my UMO printer and I print via wifi the bed heating starts and after heating it asks for "wait for user". At that time the printer will sit idle with a headed bed on temperature but a cold hotend. When I press the button it starts printing. At that time the hotend is still cold so I abort the print. When I print again (now my heated bed is hot) it start heating the hotend and everything is ok. So my workarround is heat the bed to target temp and then start printing via wifi (cura).
The strange thing is that when I print a file from the SD card (doodle3d is connected but idle) it also asks for "wait for user" but now when the hotend is heated up so bed heating goes fine. I press the button and I have a good start. If I disconnect the doodle3d I can print without beeing asked for "wait for user" message. In this case it just heats the bed and then the hotend just like instructed in the gcode.
Here is my start code:
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E5 ;extrude 5mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
I would expect that the same start code is send when printing in cura using the wifi.
So my question is what triggers this "wait for user" message when the doodle3d is connected? The "wait for user" command is not in the gcode. I printed the same object on the sd card and with doodle3d connected I get the message and without the doodle3d I don't (first I thought it was the updated marlin software but that is not the case since without the doodle3d the behavior is as specified in the gcode).