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Posts posted by zoev89

  1. Had je iets aangesloten op de spannings regelaar? Tja een 0.1 uF keramische of soort gelijke ontkoppel condensator zal zeker de uitgangs spanning beter maken. Dat die naar 0V ging is toch een beetje vreemd. Was die warm geworden doordat je iets aangesloten had? Fans zijn vervelende dingen want die kunnen een spanning regelaar lelijk in de war sturen als er geen onkoppel condensatoren op de uit en ingang van de regelaar zitten.

  2. The answer is measure the operating temperature to see if it is ok within the box with the frond open or not. You will also probably notice it on your results. Keeping the front open will help quite a bit. You already have 1 answer outside the box it works well.

    Sorry that the noise reduction part will not work:)

  3. If it gets warm in that box don't print PLA! It will not work well the PLA will get soft before entering your machine and will cause all kinds of problems.

    For ABS this would be a good solution.

    Also a high temperature in your enclosure will cause your steppers and your electronics to run very hot. That might lead to issues for the future. Best would be to leave the steppers and electronics outside of the enclosure:)

    The solution is simple first try to print without using the enclosure at all. Once you build up some experience you can put it in the enclosure but I would not close it. Or make sure that cool air can enter the enclosure. Put a thermometer close to the machine to know at which temperature your are operating. The thermometer can be a very simple one.

  4. I recently got a zebra plate the successor of the ninja plate. It is quite sturdy and the things I have printed so far seem to hold (5 printes not much yet as statistic). I print without heating for PLA. The bedleveling is done with my old 0.1mm room between nozzle and bed. I tried 0.2mm first but that did not work. At the moment I am using the black side since I am printing yellow. It is a nice gimmick to be able select color. Parts come off easy enough just flex the plate a little and then sick some thin object under the part and there it is.

    It is not cheap to get (The Netherlands) if you add the postage and the additional custom charge of E13,- + 21% BTW.

  5. Je zou de 19V van je moeder board afkunnen halen (schakelt dan mee met de aan uit knop). Voed daarmee je 7812CV mee en met de 12V de fans aansturen. De uitgang van de fan op het board is een opencollector uitgang dus de +12V naar de fan en de ground van de fan naar het ultimaker board. Dat zou kunnen werken.

    Voor je extruder heb je wel een M302 gcode commando gestuurd anders extrude die niets als de kop koud is, dit is een marlin default protection die zeker zinvol is want koud plastic laat zich niet extruden.

  6. ABS is more difficult to print than PLA. They are almost opposite materials where PLA likes to be cold ABS likes to be warm. My advise use PLA to start with, as you noticed...

    Use colorfabb XT if you need more temperature resistant parts. Only after that think about ABS.

    I print ABS with 260 degrees (this is hot it will deform your teflon part in half a roll of ABS, my observation and that is why I use a E3D full metal hotend) and my bed at 110 and a good glue stick or ABS slurry. And always use a brim for ABS. Also note ABS shrinks so it can wrap and pull off the bed. So when you have been able to keep ABS stick to the bed getting it off can cause issues again. I once chipped my glass pretty badly when the ABS cooled off.

    Keeping ABS warm in a covered machine also helps fighting wrapping, but you have to be careful with your stepper motors to run it covered.

    So all in all don't start with ABS but start with PLA to build some experience, and then you can use ABS.

    ABS is a nice material if you need to post process it. Although with PLA you can also do a lot just remember to keep it cold (I sand it or file it).

  7. What's that transparent blue stuff?  how you stretch it so tight and perfect?


    The transparent blue stuff is translucent plastic sheet of 0.3 mm thick. I actually use 2 sheets from which I airbrush 1 with ink to the color I want and put that sprayed layer between the 2 sheets for protection.

    Due to the thickness of the sheet which is not stretched but just fixed into place with the printed parts.

    • Like 1
  8. Ha I did the modification while I had to replace my xy blocks. Ofcause when I measured my distances I made a 3mm error so when I installed the cilinders there was too much room:( Nothing a hobbiest can't fix but I could not print at time since my printer was missing some xy parts... So I drilled some 8mm holes in some rings to fill the gap. Now everything fits nicely.


    I upgraded to the mooncactus xy blocks and they do their job well




  9. Sorry ik ben alleen zo nu en dan op het forum.

    3) Dus je Z as kan wel bewegen maar als je gaat printen dan blijft de z as op zijn plek. Dat is vreemd. Als je vanaf de ulticontroler de z as kan bedienen dan werkt alles electisch gezien. Is de gcode van de test print dan wel correct? Je kunt die in Cura inladen en bekijken.

    Vraag waar heb je je 12V voor nodig? De stock fan kan de 19V aan?

  10. Hi Macua

    For hacking your firmware you have to install in custom Marlin software. Do you have a UMO or a UM2? For the UMO you can go to http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ specify what you need. There you can also specify the maximum temperature.

    For the oil what I found on the internet was usually people use salad oil, something natural. In my case with the sunflower oil it smells good if you use too much oil.

    I like the hotend as well. With the oil I never have issues and I don't have to worry about the teflon part when I print some ABS.


    Thanks at least there is some hope.


    Yeah, sorry about that dependency. We found a critical bug in pyqt 5.2, so we could not use it. The guys of qt were fairly quick with fixing it, but it did result in the 5.4 dependency.


    Aha so I will wait until ubuntu update its packadge since you will not go back to 5.2 in your case due to the bug. Thank for letting me know.

  12. Just to update this since my last post... I now have the e3d working. It turned out that adding a little oil to the e3d sorted everything out. Hope that snippet of info helps to save someone else a lot of time and headaches!


    Hi Macua

    I also use 1 drop of sunflower oil when I change filament or about 24h of printing. Since I do that I don't have any issues. I think due to the curve in the filament there is some buildup friction in the cooler of the hotend. After some time there is some thick residue of the oil left that I clean out every now and then.


    Well I failed installing the new Cura. I am running Ubuntu 14.04 LTS and there seems to be a packadge problem. The python3-qt5 version is incompatible.


    There are plans to make it 14.04 compatible but there is no official word on when this great event will happen.


    Thanks at least there is some hope.

  14. Well I failed installing the new Cura. I am running Ubuntu 14.04 LTS and there seems to be a packadge problem. The python3-qt5 version is incompatible. It requires 5.4.0 and I have 5.2.1. I don't have enough experience in updating to newer packadges then supported. Likely that is a hell which I don't want to get into. Installing new software is not my hobby. I guess I have to wait for 16.04 :(.

  15. Ik gebruik gewoon Pritt zonder dat werkt mijn gekraste glasplaat echt niet. Werkt voor PLA en ABS en XT. Moet de laag wel vaak vervangen maar omdat het water oplosbaar is, is dat eenvoudig. Wat ik wel doe is na aanbrengen er met een natte kwast overstrijken zodat de lijm oplost (Pritt geeft van die klodders) en zich mooi verdeelt.

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