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  1. When i get these strings i usually lower the temp (i would go 225 to 220 to 215 now) and lower the speed (maybe 35 -45 mm/s ? ) to keep the same strength in the part. Higher temps usually result in a stronger part and also tends to looks better on vertical walls. Also as i said, try to play with the travel speed. Try 150 / 180 / 210 and look if its gets better or worse. When i get these strings it looks to me like the pla is sticking to the nozzle. If the nozzle is clean it should stop sticking at the right temperature / viscosity.
  2. I would play with temperature and travel speed. What filament and temperature are you running?
  3. Hello guys, unfortunately i forgot my power supply for my UM2 when i drove home for this week. what specs do a power supply need to have, to use it with my UM2. I think i just can plug a few cables on the board with the right voltage, right? cheers Jonas
  4. for me the print looks to hot or / and over extruded. another idea: try something like outer shell = 4mm. and no infill. this way lines are printed a lot smother, and cura don't create so much of those chaotic infill lines.
  5. Wow guys :eek: ! Every print on the last couple pages blew me away! Is it me or does this community improving together? Just a little preview what i was doing the last days. I hope i have it done tomorrow.
  6. jonask


    Hi from some place near Bavaria! :-) good luck and keep us updated
  7. Just sell the dual extrusion kit with two new hot ends that can reach 300°c and have changeable nozzle sizes.
  8. Yeah i totally agree with skint. It would be so usefull to see different approaches and settings on the same print. That would be so much information you never would test out alone.
  9. I also noticed that it would be to heavy to move it on the head, but a friend of mine always thought that these pallets extruders create a small tube like filament witch is pushed into the head. I told him that its not working this way. But a day later is ask myself, why not extruding the filament with a big cheap machine, and then the filament runs right through a feeder. So basically you don't have a spool, since the pallets extruder just extrude as much, as the feeder needs. It could work, but it will also be big and heavy.
  10. I like the idea. But someone needs to take responsibility for this, so there is a new challenge every week and so on... It would be really cool, lets just start a new challenge every Friday. Should there be a poll witch is the best print, or should it be just for fun?
  11. whoa the unicorn really take it to the next level :eek: We need some of braddocks skills here... defenetly
  12. Of course it would be easier, but where would be the fun? :mrgreen: also i got like 3 kg left of the not-so-good-quality filament :???: I think what i am planning wont work, but i will try it anyway. If it fails i will gonna look a bit deeper in the overhead extrusion.
  13. i would use two strings of filament and attach them somehow to both ends, and make multiple segments between them, like in the last picture of the first post. The question is how much space is the maximum between the segments, so that the filament wont bend. The downside is this eliminates the use of flexible filaments. But if the space have to be really small, even with normal PLA, i should look for another solution than lots of single elements. I like the idea of overhead extrusion, but i guess that the extra weight effects print quality on average speeds ?
  14. I guess i just have to try it, to see how much space is possible between the elements. luckily i have bowden tube with 4 mm inner diameter, witch i would use for the feeder and the head. In further constructions i would also need something to attach everything to the head and feeder. It should be possible to make something that doesn't need short peaces of bowden tube anymore.
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