jonask

When i get these strings i usually lower the temp (i would go 225 to 220 to 215 now) and lower the speed (maybe 35 -45 mm/s ? ) to keep the same strength in the part. Higher temps usually result in a stronger part and also tends to looks better on vertical walls. Also as i said, try to play with the travel speed. Try 150 / 180 / 210 and look if its gets better or worse. When i get these strings it looks to me like the pla is sticking to the nozzle. If the nozzle is clean it should stop sticking at the right temperature / viscosity.

I would play with temperature and travel speed. What filament and temperature are you running?

Thank you

Hello guys, unfortunately i forgot my power supply for my UM2 when i drove home for this week. what specs do a power supply need to have, to use it with my UM2. I think i just can plug a few cables on the board with the right voltage, right? cheers Jonas

for me the print looks to hot or / and over extruded. another idea: try something like outer shell = 4mm. and no infill. this way lines are printed a lot smother, and cura don't create so much of those chaotic infill lines.

Wow guys :eek: ! Every print on the last couple pages blew me away! Is it me or does this community improving together? Just a little preview what i was doing the last days. I hope i have it done tomorrow.

Hi from some place near Bavaria! :-) good luck and keep us updated

Just sell the dual extrusion kit with two new hot ends that can reach 300°c and have changeable nozzle sizes.

Yeah i totally agree with skint. It would be so usefull to see different approaches and settings on the same print. That would be so much information you never would test out alone.

I also noticed that it would be to heavy to move it on the head, but a friend of mine always thought that these pallets extruders create a small tube like filament witch is pushed into the head. I told him that its not working this way. But a day later is ask myself, why not extruding the filament with a big cheap machine, and then the filament runs right through a feeder. So basically you don't have a spool, since the pallets extruder just extrude as much, as the feeder needs. It could work, but it will also be big and heavy.

I like the idea. But someone needs to take responsibility for this, so there is a new challenge every week and so on... It would be really cool, lets just start a new challenge every Friday. Should there be a poll witch is the best print, or should it be just for fun?

whoa the unicorn really take it to the next level :eek: We need some of braddocks skills here... defenetly

Of course it would be easier, but where would be the fun? :mrgreen: also i got like 3 kg left of the not-so-good-quality filament :???: I think what i am planning wont work, but i will try it anyway. If it fails i will gonna look a bit deeper in the overhead extrusion.

i would use two strings of filament and attach them somehow to both ends, and make multiple segments between them, like in the last picture of the first post. The question is how much space is the maximum between the segments, so that the filament wont bend. The downside is this eliminates the use of flexible filaments. But if the space have to be really small, even with normal PLA, i should look for another solution than lots of single elements. I like the idea of overhead extrusion, but i guess that the extra weight effects print quality on average speeds ?

I guess i just have to try it, to see how much space is possible between the elements. luckily i have bowden tube with 4 mm inner diameter, witch i would use for the feeder and the head. In further constructions i would also need something to attach everything to the head and feeder. It should be possible to make something that doesn't need short peaces of bowden tube anymore.

What build plate temp you running? Maybe more / stronger support will help?

Hi everyone, i am often using filament witch is more like 3 mm then 2.85 mm.It often gets stuck when i am doing fast extruding or a lot of retractions because the feeder deforms the filament. Also the best retraction settings between 2.85 mm and 3 mm changes. So it would be cool to have a kind of bowden tube witch adjusts to the filament diameter. So i came up with this Idea: I think its explaining itself. I used 6 mm softair balls. Its designed for 2.8 mm diameter, but because of the gap it can widen itself if the filament gets bigger. What you think about this? cheers Jonas

Not a solution to your problem but also worth to try: When i was printing something similar, with a small text on the first layer i got the same problems. I had over extrusion, and when i turn the build plate down, first layer wont stick. Then i added a 0.1 mm bottom to the Model, so it prints the first layer full and at the second layer the text starts. This was a really cool effect because if you print the first layer at 0.1 mm it looks like thin foil and is also a bit transparent. And the text had a "hologram" style. A text inside a model is where 3D Printing uses its full potential

Also ich habe mein Problem eingrenzen können: --> Die Plattform verstellt sich bei mir beim lösen des Drucks! Durch das lösen schiebe ich die Bauplattform leicht nach unten. <-- nichts desto trotz finde ich, dass die Plattform vor jedem Druck einfach 5 cm hoch fahren sollte und dann gegen den Endschalter. Wieso hier einige den Fehler trotz hochfahren der Plattform haben kann ich nicht verstehen. Wenn sonstige Einstellungen gespeichert bleiben sollte auch die Kalibrierung gespeichert sein. Ich würde denjenigen mal vorschlagen einen Druck mehrmals hintereinander zu starten und jedesmal abrechen, nachdem man sieht wie der Abstand von der Plattform ist. Mal mit und mal ohne Drucker zwischendurch ausschalten. Am besten noch ein video von 2-3 Durchläufen machen, das wir sehen können das er sich wirklich willkürlich verstellt und evtl hören wir ja Geräusche die wir nicht haben!

Challenge accepted :cool:

Hey probably the filament gets stuck because the diameter is over 3mm. You can remove the filament. Then remove the bowden tube from the feeder and try to stick the filament through the bowden tube by your hand. If it gets stuck you know its to big. cheers Jonas

Hi from Aalen Germany And happy waiting :-P

Hi! There is a gallery feature! You can find it by opening the drop down menu on the upper right where your nickname is. After uploading you can embed pictures from gallerys in your posts.

As chopmeister said. It can be done. But with human help and alot of work. Its like you modeling a surface over the mesh from the stl. So a simple converter program will not bring a useful result on complicated shapes i guess. But i would be glad if someone proved me wrong

Thanks for the link, i will try the software manipulation! Oh, i thought it could just be screwed out :???:. So no chance to put a smaller nozzle on the UM2? My 0.4 nozzle is not broken, i just want to try print really small tubes and thought a smaller nozzle would help.