ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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Ha.. don't think i've ever seen that... my finger will heal... think i'll use a glove next time. Dont like the idea of screwdriver on glas....
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Hmmm. Bad luck you guys talking about blood.... cut my finger open on the little clip holding the glass plate... these things are realy sharp... 1st time blood on my printer... try to make it also the last.
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Looks very interesting. Would be nice if you could share a drawing on how the thing fits togheter ... exploded view ..
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ahh thanks for the link, looking at daid's responce there's not much change ... anyhow as you say very low priority.
made a mistake, have the nivigator not the pilot .. love it in DSM/Spaceclaim but did drastically reduce the speed of the mouse.
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Any chance off getting my space pilot to work in cura ?
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It would be nice, if you could design a feeder in the future, without using all the screws from the feeder motor. It's a little bit anoying, that the motor get loose on removing the feeder.
I did this , see page 28 .... also here I showed how I used a piece of string with some weight attached to keep the motor in place.
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Have not seen Bas's test report yet, but like to share my "common sense" thoughts of the last week or so.
I was triggered by the ideo of "3poro" (see page 31) to put the fillament spool on the side of the printer. My thinking is that these are factors that influence the friction of fillament in the tube (for sure not complete..);
* bending of the tube, smaller curve - more friction
* twisting of the spool v.s the head position
* misallignment between the natural curvature of the fillament just off the spool v s the curvature in the tube
* position of the "damaged side" of the fillament
So I was thinking how to solve all this with a better position of spool and feeder.
I think the spool should be more to the middle, to prevent tube bending as much as possible.
I also think the spool should be placed in a way the fillament curve direction will not change in the tube
So I created a test setup to play with;
I don't have any real means to measure the impact this setup has on friction, but my gut feeling likes it
Next idea:
create a setup you can mount to the UM2, and have some modulare/flexible way of mounting spool and feeder
- Back plate, to attach the stuff to (still to do)
- mounting plates for feeder(s)
- brackets for spool (ready)
- spool holder (done)
Roughly something like;
The spool holder ("compact low friction spool holder"sounds good. ..) is derived from Roberts spool holder (the "core1" is unchanged")
Would like to hear if you have good ideas on how to create modular mounting points on this back plate.
Will probalby cutt it in the middle and use the original motor mount and spool mount holes to fix it to the UM2.
Arjan -
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Very interested... I'll buy one ...
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SOLVED!
this was a total waste of time
flashed again, directly followed by a factory reset...... still same problem.
then I had a brainwave.... what if I try to print something else .... problem solved!
apparently the printfile was corrupt, maybe took the SD card out to fast or something ... still think it's odd to get this behaviour ...
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Ok now I'm lost ... flashed the firmware again (from Cura 14.07) had no fillament in the machine, used the material change feature to load material, all ok.
Then I go print (head still warm from material change, bed cold), print starts direct, feeder moving material all ok ecept for the fact that tyhe bed is still cold, so no adheasion to the bed.
so;
- firmware update did not help.
- sensors ar ok
- bed and head will heat from maintenace menu.
I'm lost ... what do you think, would it be worthwile flashing back to older firmware ?
I'm just thinking, after the firmware update I did not restore factory settings .. would I need to do that ??
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Just tried again afterhaving the printer off for half an hour (walking the dog....) it still immediatly starts to print.... but you are right there seems to be a protection against grinding.... the feeder motor is not moving at all.
So I press print, bed goes up, head is moving as if its printing, and feeder motor does nothing....
Just to be sure I'll flash the firmwear again now ....
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Suddenly my UM2 will start a printjob without waiting for the bed or head to be warmed up.
This happend after I used the maintenance funtions to heat up.
I even did a factory reset, went through the original setup steps, but still it starts directly.
Both bed and head sensors seem ok (I get a room temperature reading).
Can this be something hardware related or did I somehow trigger a bug in the newest firmweare update (that came with cura 14.07) ??
Thanks for any help,
Arjan
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do you know what settings you used for the 15mm3/sec test ? (speed/temp/flow) and how much you compressed the spring ? do you use the original UM spring?
I just did a speedtest on the Bronzefill, stopped it at 5 mm3/s as I wonder how bad this stuff is for my nozzle.
You need to follow the Colorfab advice of +/- 104 / 108% flow, underextrusion at 100% even at low speed.
Just printed a ring, it does not have a metal look jet, also not after sanding. Will have to buy some copper polish tomorrow.....
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Just did a new speed test after I increased the arm lenth on my feeder by 2 mm.
Looks good to me .... certainly as these speeds are way higher than I would actually use..
Colorfabb pla, started out at 220 C / 100 % flow, increased temp to 230 above the 3 mm3/s, later on I increased flow to 105%, and over 7 mm3/s I increased temp to 240C.
I had the spring tension at 10.45 mm in this test. I tried before at 12mm, which is fine at lower speeds.
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Hi Robert
You did increase the travel of the Yoke at my request page 21 of this thread... you also adjusted the guide for me to fit it also on page 22 of this thread....
I am also testing UltiArjan feeder a page back and it is working well, but i did have to increase the travel on the yoke for that too by 2mm, next is to test some ninja with it.....
I just figured it out myself while doing an extrusion test... I only tested at low speeds ...have just updated the design files with 2mm extra length ...
I'm curious about your ninja test. Just got my delivery of ColorFabb bronze fill today, will try do do a test later this week.
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and here it is .... jet another feeder alternative for your UM2 ....
Based on looking at the different designs already available, I tried to list what I liked and disliked on them, to come up with the best design for my own taste. But first some remarks on the 2 designs that influenced mine the most (> Thanks Robert and Geeks for your great work!!!!)
My impression of the design by "|Robert|" (I printed it with the intention to install, butt never got to it cause I made this alternative..) > https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
+ Super cool looks
+ "quick release"
+ open design, easy to clean
+ Easy adjustment of the bearing pressure.
- the part of tube at the bottom that needs to be loaded from the back, don't like that I can't see if rubish is pilling up there.
- the tiny spacers used on the left screws (and the arm mounting on the motor screws).
My impression of the design by "Geeks" (from the pictures, I did not print it) > https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2)
+ Easy adjustment of the bearing pressure.
+ Separate mounting of feeder and motor.
+ the guide arm (although I don't need it in my setup)
- closed design may be hard to clean, possible build up of fillament parts.
- no "quick release".
Some general guidelines I came up with before I started drawing....
* I don't mind additional components as long as it standard easily available stuff like bolts and nuts
* needs to fit on the back of the UM2, want to keep the drivemotor in its original place.
I liked to combine the following;
+ mechanicaly strong, easy to print.
+ "quick release"
+ open design, easy to clean
+ Easy adjustment of the bearing pressure.
nice to have;
+ Separate mounting of feeder and motor.
+ Goods looks... but mostly a matter of taste..
After printing I needed to sand the part of the main arm, where it connects with the bearing arms a bit ...
I printed all with 100% infill, as you see in the pictures not all parts are nice and clean, I had some issues with the original feeder and underextrusion ..... First thing I'm doing now is to print this feeder again ....
And just some mounting guidelines....
- print all the parts
- remove your original feeder by attachting a piece of string to the motor shaft, hing something a bit heavy on it so the motor will stay in place when you take out the screws.
- mount the right bottom screw part of the new feeder, so your motor will stay in place when you undo the string.
- take the original parts like spring and bearing, to mount on the new feeder.
- mount feeder, ready to go !
** first result looks promising, just finished a 1 hr print, looks perfect, much beter than before !!
I'm thinking to keep an eye on potential wear at the bottom fillament entrance, and alternative could be to make there a fillament connection just like the one on top with a short piece of tube... (but you would need to order these extra clips...)
>>> I'll put the design files on youmagine <<<
update; 30/6 , added a little knob for easy adjustment.
update; 2/7, as cor3ys already mentioned in the next page of this thread the arms holding the bearing are a bit to short (sorry, I only tested at low speeds...) updated the file. Version nr. 25 of the front and back arm have 2mm increased length.
at the same time made a little change for easier installing the m3 x 50mm bolt...
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I'm still on thingiverse but these guys can't take a little stinger .... my "small table" design was featured on the front page today , so I thought I'd use the attention to make a little patent comment..... within the hour I was no longer featured
would be funny if more people add some links in there pages ...
I tried another one ..
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:350379
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:366902
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Last update.......I got my printer Monday morning with no extra duties or tax charge. The main hang up was the 5106 form and power cable $0.00 value. This hung me up for 3 days due to it being a Friday delivery. Fedex delivers on Saturday but the airport shipping department that feeds Fedex does not operate on Saturday so the printer stayed in the hanger untill Monday morning. The box was a little roughed up but with the great pack job by the UM team the printer was in perfect condition.
I'd like to thank UM for building a great product but really want to thank who ever tuned my printer. The test print that came with my UM2 was a little rough and made me think I would be spending a good amount of time tuning. However this was far from being true. I'm a c-5 quadriplegic with zero finger dexterity and was able to insert the build plate, level the bed and without anything done to the glass, the very first calibration print came out flawless at 100 microns, 50mm/s, bed 75c, hotend 210c, room 84-f, fans 100%, UM gold PLA. And wow did it stick to the bed I will be making a razor blade scraper to free future prints.
This truely was a turn key setup and I couldn't be more excited. I have my first real prints going now and 4 hours in they look great. I will see how they finish but I'm confident they will be fine. I'll get pic's soon
assuming you dont use glue (I never did) you don't need the scraper for print removal, just let the bed cool off long enough ( +- 10 minutes after you machine says the cooling is done) and your print will be loose.
the scraper can come in handy though to clean the glas ...
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Something in the range of 8 years to 16... although there might be some more veteran LAN-members (up to 40 +) having a go at it.
I've seen interesting examples, going to try that one as well, thank you!
and there's the powerfull feature to use STEP files in DSM;
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2772-spaceclaim/?p=53816
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Not shure what.s the target age. Learned my 13 yr old daughter "design spark mechanical" (also free) yesterday. she could work with it fast. Just a question here and there....
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I talked to the video guy on the last event... there still recording the videos. UM please share them with us.
Thanks.
Arjan
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thanks, you're right, in this case it's very visible when checking in Cura....
however in the next model (nespresso cup holder) I find it very difficult to see in Cura what would be the best setting...
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Inspired by some profesional tesing videos like (
) I was thinking it should be possible to create something similarfor testing 3D printed material.
I have a very simple goal, mainly interested in relative strength between multiple test pieces. Like to be able to answer f.e. which print temperature gives the best connection between layers.
The machine;
It's basically a simple swing, hinging in bearings, to measure the loss of hight when cutting through a piece of material. A piece of wood at the top makes sure you always release the swing from the same hight. A simple pointer mechanism shows the maximum hight reached during the swing.
The first result of multiple "swings" without test block, show a good constant result.
Testing 5x with a similar testblock (8 x 8 x 80 cm, same print settings and material) unfortunately gives less constant results. Also the difference in result between no material and the testblocks is very minimal.
so improvement can probably come from starting the swing from a lower position, or scale down the total machine and "swing weight". I'll do some more testing when I can find the time ...
I'll put the components on "youmagine", any improvement comments are welcome. One thing that can be improved for sure is the pointer mechanism (currently very simple with a rubber band).
Arjan
The filament went off of the reel. What can I do?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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not sure if there are more versions of UM2, but on mine the coverplate's are held with 2 screws, one in the backpanel and one in the side panel..... about 40 cm from the bottom and 40 cm from the top of the cover...