ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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I never use anything on the heated glas, no glue, spray... nothing, print only PLA and XT.
Key is to keep the glas clean. I wash every so many weeks with some hand soap under warm running water.
In 99% of the time my prints pop of after the bed is cooled, but you need to wait a little longer after the printer tells you its ok to remove your stuff!! for XT sometimes even till cooled to 20 celcius.
I use this thing for removing the small line printed at the beginning of a print, key is not to touch the glas with your hands ... almost never happens that I have to use it to remove a part.
For very small parts the adhesion can be a problem, in this case I use a brim.
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Im curious what you come up with.... let us know...
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Did a little street photography in London the day after the 3d printshow ......
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Blizz> always good to know who to contact when running out of spare parts
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As you see the quality is specially lower on the rounded parts. Think the 0.6 is specially usefull for larger furniture parts or more functional parts .... but all in all not to bad...
Printed with 0.6 nozzle, 0.2 layer, 50 speed (50x0.2x0.6 = 6mm3/s), while I would normally print high quality at 35x0.1x0.4=1.4mm3/s... And on top this was the last part of fillament on the reel, so very curved ...
As a negative, if you need a certain infill to be able to create decent top layers, you'r waisting a lot more fillament with the 0.6 nozzle ....
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sound like a smart plan to me ..... welcome !
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Doing a test print now of a well known thingiverse elephant, scaled to 15 cm.. in my normal setting 0.1 > 15,5 hours, now 4,5 hours .... I'm curious how it will turn out...
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real easy and fast (if you don't have to change the heater unit as i had to do).
but ..... I think you can only do it a few times and throw away your nozzle, the setscrew is really easy to damage... this thing is just not made for regular changing....
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I did it :-P
Drilled my old UM2 nozzle to 0.6.
First cleaned it out with a gasburner, then just put the nozzle in a workbench and drilled out by handheld dremel ....
Very easy no problem at all, don't put any pressure, just let the dremel do the work (just seconds) and the inside shape of the nozzle will guide the drill to the centre ...
Did no sanding or cleaning, just heated again with the gasburner and pushed some PLA through for cleaning of any metal parts ....
Also had to replace my heating unit (broke the housing some time ago), this was a bit of a pain, getting the wire in the black sleeve again (I was smart enough to attach a wire to the old one before pulling out, and used the wire again for pulling in the new cable)..
Unfortunately I don't think you can change the nozzle frequently, to be honest i'm really starting to dislike the design, specially the small setscrew in the nozzle is extremely easy damaged...
First test is very good if you ask me ...
Spiral cilinder, 0.6 wal, started at 3 mm3/s moving up to, 6, 9, 10.5, up to 12 mm3/s no problem with extrusion at all. And this at 210 celsius....
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gr5/george > twitter: @gr5org
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gr5 > Your research/feeder tweet made be curious ..... whats the news on this topic ? any news on an update for the UM2 feeder ?
Besides this there seems to be little upexpected news ? just the heated bed for the original ?
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Korneel > what temp did you use... its supposed to be printed at 230 c
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Ian > " little white control thing" ??? are you using the stock feeder ???
Think I would definitely switch to a better feeder before putting oil in my bowden ...
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not sure where I read it but around 23:00 (NL) so thats around 22:00 your time I guess...
think you can have a look at twitter #ultimaker
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Ik denk dat dit forum veel info heeft die erg lastig te vinden is, een soort WIKI zou beter zijn .... maar ik heb geen idee hoe zo iets op te zetten ...
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again a printer with the fillament inside the housing ... this thing must have been designed by the marketing department :???:
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I'll skip this one ... my understanding of french is limited to "Je ne comprends pas"... :-P
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Ill try to burn it clean in the weekend. No hurry as its a spare now... may even try to drill it to 0.6 for experimentation but wonder if its possible by hand held dremel? I suppose if you dril from the inside theres some guidance... ever tried it?
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Blizz> ik zie nergens dat er met 1 mm laagdikte wordt geprint. Dat sloeg denk ik alleen op de bottom/top.
Tdo> er wordt vaak aangehouden dat voor een goede afwerking van de top je een top laagdikte van 6x je layerhoogte moet nemen
Dus als je met 0.1 lagen print een toplaag van minimaal 0.6.
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I have this kind of stringing also a lot more with XT, but it's usually very easy to clean ...
And it's probably a good idea to change to a different feeder ...
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we also have a dog .... but he's not allowed in my printing room
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seems you at least did your "good deed" for today
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Well, as I sip my first coffee of the day... Yay, finally, a US presence! It's been a while coming, but I think it will be great for the community on this side of the Atlantic. :smile:
He Simon (or do we have to call you "VP Ultimaker USA" now :-P ) congrats, looks like you'r going to be a very busy man...
Now there is really no excuse in the US anymore to buy the makerb#$%!
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bewijs
Geprint in colorfabbXT, 100%fill, is 15gram, vs de 25 gram van het orgineel.
Heb ook nog even een "wetenschappelijk" onderzoek gedaan met een voor en na printje van de UM robot.
De "na" versie (links) heeft een duidelijk beter geprint rechter oor. Lijkt me een aantoonbare verbetering ....
En nog even de link voor wie dit later leest :
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2
versie: "Fan Base V06 Rev01"
I want to purchase UM2 and I need your help!
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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I would advice to start with PLA, as it's the most easy and clean material to work with. Maybe later you can try Colorfabb XT. You don't need many special tools, just a decent set of torx screwdrivers (think you need at least a T5 and T8) for dismanteling the heating unit.
For spare parts it's depending on how bad it is to not have your machine available... for normal use I would say just buy the "hot end pack" and maybe a few extra "PTFE couplers".
If you really can't affort any downtime you'll have to buy 2 machines
In general the printer is easy to take appart and maintain, it's a big plus for the Ultimaker compared to many other machines.
and about the blue tape, you dont need it IMHO;
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7433-crazy-stuck/?p=69578