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alnavasa

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Posts posted by alnavasa

  1. On 12/10/2014 at 11:37 AM, amedee said:

    I had no time so far tu publish it, but I can share my firmware if someone is interested in...

    15167539760_42b6d473b1.jpg

    (It is the 'official' Ultimaker Marlin compiled with support for the 'Full Graphic Smart Controller')

     

    Hi Amedee, is there any way not to show the extruder 2 and 3 temps on the smart controller? 

     

    Everything else works as expected!

     

    PS: Is it worth to upgrade the belts and pulleys to GT2?

  2. On 1/20/2015 at 12:45 PM, zoev89 said:

    The voltage on the fans at the UMO are 19V. That quite a trouble maker.I changed it to 12V...

     

    Does that also apply to the ultimaker Original with the 1.5.7 Electronics board. 
    I currently have two 12v fans, and after reading in forums, bought a 24v impeller fan,  connected it and it blows very vey slow.... and only with PWM higher than 175, so makes me think that maybe it is 12v.

     

     

    I attach the design down here

    Captura de pantalla 2020-04-05 12.12.07.png

  3. On 5/25/2018 at 6:08 AM, gr5 said:

    6) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose.  You want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament.  You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds.  4 columns is too much.  You usually want the tension in the center.

     

     

    On The Ultimaker original, does this apply too? I find my self struggling on how much is too much and how little is too little pressure, The knurled bolt on the original Ultimaker original has a different pattern than on the UM2 (I think), so I guess this apply differently right? how much is the right tension? I can't find any post explaining this, 

    Only found the Ultimaker website, where "no marks" is too little and "material grinded" is too much

  4. Buenas tardes, señor@s!

    Estoy pensandome comprar una Ultimaker, pero me gustaría que la gente me aconsejara por lo que planteo unas cuantas preguntas antes de hacerlo:

    1. Estoy queriendo comprar una UM Original +. La quiero para el hobby, pero no quiero un juguete. Por ello, opto por la UMO+. En teoría el kit DIY de 1200€ incluye la placa calefactada y el extrusor capaz de operar de 180 a 260º. Por ello, a pesar de ser más "rudimentaria" que la UM2, la UMO+ puede procesar los mismos materiales con la misma rugosidad que UM2. ¿Cierto o no? Ser más o menos rápida me da igual.

    2. En base a lo dicho en 2. tanto UMO+ como UM2 (en teoría) pueden procesar FilaFlex, Nylon, quizá hasta Policarbonato; y no solo PLA y ABS. ¿Habéis probado algo más que no sea PLA/ABS?

    3. ¿Todavía tardan 2 meses en mandartela? La quiero pedir a finales de este mes, así que sería para el año que viene, ¿no?

    4. He leído en varios foros en inglés que la gente está rajando del servicio de soporte de Ultimaker. ¿Qué experiencia tenéis?

    Os agradezco mucho vuestras respuestas de antemano.

    Saludos,

    Voja

     

    A ver varios temas.

    yo tengo la original y me va estupendamente, la encontré de segunda mano por 800€ en madrid con 4 rollos cama caliente ulticotroler...

    el motor del extrusor hace mucho ruido pero hay un damper en thingiverse o youmagine que te puedes imprimir para evitar esto, de todas formas es mas ruidosa, al ser una caja de madera,

    en el tema de materiales, nylon no he probado policarbonato tampoco pero temas flexibles he probado el flexible de ultimaker que va bastante mal hay que imprimirlo muy lento, pero esto es un problema de diseño de todas las maquinas que no llevan extrusor directo, ni con la uno ni con la dos podrás imprimir bien bien materiales flexibles ya que al empujarlos por el tubo el motor, estos se encogen dilatandose y atascandose en el tubo (bowden). Habla con el de recreos (filaflex) que es un material español, y están siempre por todas las ferias,

    yo en cuanto a soporte tuve dos problemas una reedita que se me rompió (rueda de plástico) que intenté imprimirla pero requería un material muy duro, ultimaker me mando dos a 0€, por otro lado se me rompió el isolator tube, y eso consideraron que era un problema de uso a parte de que esa pieza si que la vendían ellos suelta en su tienda

    Un saludo desde madrid

     

  5. So right now I am printing over cristal (just placed over the aluminum) prints got way better, I think its due to what you say, the bed leveling, I think that the aluminum was not completely flat, cristal should be completely flat, and has a very difficult chance to be deformed.

    I didn't have time to check thing, and try other, just printing over cristal heated to 65ºC sprayed with hairspray, It sticks perfect, and its a little bit triky to get it out, but I didn't have time to make a 9 hour print and have that risk, so thats what I did.

    I'll try printing bare on the cristal next time, also printing first layer warmer, thats a good idea,

    Thanks gr5 for all the support given!

     

  6. I would appreciate if you don't call those overhang strings "strings" as usually "strings" are problems with retraction and oozing on non-printing moves. You can calls those noodles or something to clarify.

    As far as the "overhangs bending upside", this is a serious problem. The best fix is to keep things as cold as possible and crank that fan! There are several solutions and lots of work has been done on this. Here is some discussion, some slow motion video, and fixes and much more:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/&do=findComment&comment=33079

    Please read through the whole thing as the understanding and theories are wrong at first but get more accurate after a while. The solutions also get better. It's a fascinating topic for me as I get this problem all the time.

     

    English its not my main language, thats why I don't really know how to call it,

    So the problem with the overhangs its solved by less temp and more cooling?

    I've just installed a second fan, I'll try that later this days.

    Is there any source files for the WHOLE extruder in order to re cut it or re print it, because I have some broken wood parts there,

    In the github Ilustrator file there are not all the files from the extruder just the two hanging things ( My UM its a revision3, I don't care upgrading it to Rev 4 extruder)

     

  7. Yo me compre una UM original por aquí en madrid de segunda mano (por el precio mas que nada)

    de todas formas tendrás que estar atento a ver que se habla en el foro sonbre el tema del extrusr que estaba dando problemas,

    no es un tema de activarla o desactivarla, todo el mundo creo que la tiene activada para evitar que se formen esos hilitos http://www.jonshobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/3D-Printer-OB-1.4-stringy-Y-Carriage-in-PLA-Closeup-zero-retraction.jpg

     

  8. La retracción siempre se activa (o casi siempre) consiste en que la maquina retrocede el motor que expulsa el hilo, ya que por su propio peso o inercia seguiría cayendo dejando hilos, de esa forma te los quitas,

    hay otra cosa que es el combing, que es parecida, que la maquina no retrae, pero hace un camino sobre la propia pieza para así si deja hilo que lo deje sobre la pieza (este hilo es depreciable en la calidad de la impresión, excepto si eres como yo que en la primera capa no me gusta el acabado que deja)

     

  9. I also still try to get rid of this. I also thinking this is related to cooling/shrinking. Normally turning print temp down helps a bit on this one.

     

    Hmm, I'll try that, Right now I am printing a Ultibot with a new fan, I'll post the pictures if there are differences,

     

  10. I am finally starting to get great Prints, by slowing down the speed of the shells and increasing the infill speed.

    1.2 mm of shell

    I still have some problems with the over hangs bending upside, and then the nozzle pushes them down, then they bend up again and like this all the time,

    I think its a problem of cooling

     

  11. This is the start G code I have in cura in order to know when the machine is heated

    ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}

    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}

    ;Print time: {print_time}

    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g

    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}

    M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line

    ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line

    M300 S1000 P1000

    M300 S900 P500

    M300 S800 P250

    M300 S700 P125

    M300 S600 P125

    M300 S400 P75

    M300 S300 P37

    M300 S200 P500

    M300 S1000 P9

    G4 P3000

    G21 ;metric values

    G90 ;absolute positioning

    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode

    M107 ;start with the fan off

    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops

    G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops

    G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm

    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length

    G1 F200 E7 ;extrude 7mm of feed stock

    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again

    G1 F{travel_speed}

    ;Put printing message on LCD screen

    M117 UltiMaking...

     

     

    The bold part of the Gcode Makes a kind of music sound, then pauses three seconds (where I check that there is enough material about to extrude), and then starts the procedure to do a print.

     

    While printing from SD card

     

  12. So, I was looking for a good system for a double fun duct, I ended up only finding one that I liked, I printed it, and It was for 40mm fans not the original size fans that the ultimaker comes with (50mm)

    So I've made a remix of one I've seen in thingiverese,

    Its a Design made for anular cooling system.

    I don't know which are the best options for cooling with two fans,

    Any suggesitions in the design or any other design out there that its good will be welcomed!

    Here it is: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-fan-duct-anular-cooling

     

  13. So gr5; Here are the two fans I've bought, I think there is no problem with them, but I just wanted to check, They are 12V and 0.16A. Which means that both together consume 12V and 0.32A. The transistor Its for up to 4 Amps (I think I read that somewhere), so there should be no problem right?

    They also come with a different plug, but I solder them together and use the original fan plug(from the original fan), put al together with some shrinkable sleeve for the positives, and them for the hole wires.

    Clean and nice!

    fan two fans

     

  14. Okey Guys, so, Today I've done a print of iRobert fan ducts (Which I didn't read and they don't fit my fans) (and also a gopro frame) at 50 mms speed, 200ºC, 5 mm of retraction and 35mm/s speed

     

    have you tried to enable the cooling fan? I would enable the cooling fan and dont set the fan speed to 250 at layer 0. I would youse the settings in the expert settings. Something like fan full at 1mm. This way your fan increase by 10% every layer. this helps the nozzle to heat up and hold the temp while fan is turning on.

     

    I had it on at the seventh layer (on the plugin settings) but I'll change it there its better and not that messy!

    So here are today prints (just one or two strings, and some points on the outer shell)

    Also Underneath the overhangs It looks worse

    DSC 1994

    DSC 1996

    DSC 1997

    DSC 1995

    DSC 1998

    DSC 1999

    DSC 2000

     

  15. I am getting this back, I am looking for good double fan duct for the original machine.

    I printed IRobert design from youmagine and then realized that its for smaller fans, which double fan do you recommend guys?

    I have two fans from the exact same since as the original one.(50mm in the outside, 40mm between holes (Which I think It was broken because it made some noise at the beginning)

    fan two fans

     

  16. That last post was difficult to look at - it was wider than my monitor. But I did look closely.

     

    I don't know what happened with those pictures, report it to a moderator of the forum, because I have no idea what happened, they go far far away to the right of the screen.

     

  17. That last post was difficult to look at - it was wider than my monitor. But I did look closely.

    80mm/sec is a reasonable print speed - for low quality. 35mm/sec is better for higher quality.

    That last photo shows only 2 strings per part. And the strings *only* seem to be on the top layer. I think you must be printing these parts in "one at a time" mode. Which is fine. But a bit buggy in Cura - it doesn't handle the transition from one part to the next very well. I think it's probably not a problem - you just have to cut off two strings per part with a razor blade.

     

    Yes, I considered that last one as a good print,

    But definitely there is a problem with the retraction in that yellow PLA, I'll try to play with that, maybe printing in lower temp helps too

    One of the problems I had in the previos print its that a screw that I printed didn't fit into the nut it was supposed to,

    And one day I noticed that a cube that I printed one of the sides was 9.8 mm and the other 10mm

    As you may have seen in the settings I am printing in 98% of flow, Because at the beginning the corners where made sharp, round, I did that by eye, but I want it to be better done I would like to calibrate it, the E steps, Is there a video for that? How should it exactly be done?

     

  18. Strings: Lack off Cooling/ you need a bigger retraction/ dirty nozzle

    "Bubbling": Bad bed leveling/ uneven bedplate.... the big "bubbles" on the right are from sudden pressure release from the nozzle which has built up because it could not place it before...

     

    It may be the bad leveling the problems with the brim.

    Why could not place it before? I thought that maybe the bowden tube moving may cause un even pressure, but I haven't read of this problem from anyone.

     

    Maybe. It looks just like it but it could also be slicer or something else. But if you are right then it simply means you were a tiny bit too close from nozzle to bed when you levelled.

    The levelling looks quite close. What is your bottom layer height? I like to make this .3mm to compensate for my levelling errors.

     

    The bottom layer height its the same one.

     

    Stringing is tricky and I should warn you that some types of PLA will string no matter what you do. But in general you need the right retraction settings and you need to lower the temp.

    There are 6 retraction related settings:

    1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality

    2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm.

    3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers).

    4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on.

    5,6) For the UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

     

    Without the above part you need approximately 5.5mm retraction.

    STRINGING/TEMPERATURE

    There is also less stringing if you print slower because the pressures are lower in the nozzle. For example 35mm/sec with .1mm layers. Be patient if you care so much about stringing.

    And finally temperature - colder is better but you also have to print slower if you go colder to get that viscous stuff through the nozzle. Think toothpaste consistency when PLA is cooler and honey consistency when PLA is hotter:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

     

    I think it is the yellow Ultimaker PLA, its driving me crazy!.

    1) Enabled

    2) Right now it is in 1.5mm (I'll change it to 0.2mm)

    3) Set to 0.02mm

    4) Right now it is set to ON, I'll change it to NO

    5,6) Thats what I have, (and I have the clip in place ;) )

    Speed I used was 80 mm/s

    and this pla i printed it at 210C

    Should I try 200ºC ¿?

     

    Some of the circled areas in your photos are vertical lines that really look like they are in the STL and also the gcode. You can prove this by loading the gcode into repetier host and seeing if you still see all the artifacts. The blobbing you see in some of the pictures can probably be reduced by printing a little slower - see pumpkin picture here (post #12):

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010

    But I've seen Cura create some bizzarre blobs for questionable, strange STL files and they stick out big time in repetier host. Repetier host is free. Once installed simply drag and drop your gcode file into it:

    repetier host - free download:

    http://www.repetier.com/download/

     

     

    I see that speed affects a lot, I don't know where the gcode its right now, I deleted the file, but I'll try with the next one.

    I'll check that program

     

    As gr5 already mentioned. Check if it really retracts where the strings are. Just open layerview in Cura and check if there is a blue line that goes up! (those mean retraction). If cura does not retract there you have to change minimum travel in the expert settings. set it down till the upward line appears. I would not recommend to set this to 0, because it will then retract everytime it starts a new line, even in the infill. as shown here

     

    Nice thing! I'll check it.

    So I've checked the hole settings of that print and one I've made after:

    here it is:

    http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_702/gallery_34510_702_3052512.jpg

     

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