[Build Plates]

Hi, AryaVenu,

fbrc8 is Ultimaker's assembly and support partner in the US. We have official Ultimaker spare parts at fbrc8.com, including the glass plates, and orders ordered before 4pm central time ship out the same day.

 

I have a similar question. Where can I get the glass?

 

[Defective Zstop limit switch]

Hi, Clark,

Since you've just built your printer, fbrc8 should be able to provide a Z-switch for you under warranty. Our office is closed for the weekend, but if you open a ticket at Support@fbrc8.com, we should be able to ship the part to you on Monday. We'll need your serial number, name and shipping address, and the name of the part you need (UMO+ Z-switch). Email in to Support@fbrc8.com. It may also be helpful for you to include the link to this thread. All of our parts in our webstore and for our warranty support are official parts direct from Ultimaker.

[Prints not sticking to back corners of the buildplate]

Also, have you cleaned the bed recently? Build up of glue, or grease/oil from your hands or the printhead shafts could contribute to adhesion issues.

[Heat Bed Temperature]

Hi, Steve,

Have you checked your heated bed plate and electronics board to make sure the heater wires are fully inserted, and that the temperature sensor is plugged all the way into TEMP3?

Do any error messages appear?

Has anything been disassembled recently?

[Ultimaker Original Plus converted to an Ultimaker 2 plus]

Sounds like you've done a great job on the mods!

We've got the UM2 shafts in stock at fbrc8, though we haven't added them to our sales website yet. You could place an order through Sales@fbrc8.com to get a price quote since they're not on the website yet, but since you're in the UK, shipping from the US would probably be more than if you can find them from one of the European distributors.

[UM2+ feeder upgrade for UM2?]

Have you tried loosening the 4 screws that hold your feeder on? A quarter turn looser can make a huge difference to the smoothness of the feeding with the standard UM2 feeder.

The 2+ feeder isn't available on it's own at this point. You might also have to do something with the firmware I think, if you had the 2+ feeder on it's own. Temperature is managed differently with the new heater and temp sensor in the 2+ firmware, but the 2+ firmware also spins the feeder in the opposite direction than the UM2 firmware, due to the geared feeder.

 

Hey there,

in my case, the current feeder of the old Ultimaker 2 is giving me the most trouble with some filaments that are a bit stiffer than the officially endorsed Ultimaker Filaments by Innofil.

So, my question is, would it be possible to just sell the upgraded feeder mechanism?

I think that in combination with the Olsson block would make the most sense for me as of now. I have quite a few projects in the pipeline and would really love to recommend the Ultimaker 2 through my Youtube Videos, but at the moment Im just a bit frustrated because I cannot print half of the time due to the feeder either not feeding enough or just grinding into the different materials.

Best regards

 

[New day, same problem. (Update to previous post)]

If you home the printhead in the menu using Maintenance --> Advanced --> Home Head, the printhead should move to the back left corner and lock in place. If it goes to the back corner okay, but you can still move it in the X or Y direction after checking that all of your pulleys on the rods are tight, then it would mean that one of the pulleys on your motor is loose. Looking at the photo, I'd suspect the rear most pulley on the right hand side, connected to the short belt, or the motor pulley on that side.

[UM2Go - feeder skipping - but how?]

Have you inspected your bowden tube for wear and tear? Especially if you're printing on it heavily, you can end up with damage either at the feeder end of your bowden tube, or on the interior of the tube, which would cause significant extrusion issues. The feeder end should be widened out to about 45 degrees, but look clean. If it's chewed up looking you may need to cut a couple millimeters from the end and widen out the end again. You can check for damage on the interior of the tube by removing both ends from the printer and running a clean piece of filament through by hand. If there's damage inside the tube, you'll feel resistance at certain points pushing it through. If that's the case, you'll want to replace your tube.

Also, are there any ground up pieces of filament in the tube? That would impede the filament's progress. If I end up with filament debris in my tube I usually push a little bit of paper towel in one end, and push a piece of filament through. It should gather up and debris and push it out the end so you've got a clean tube again.