fbrc8-erin
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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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The other thing to keep in mind with the ABS is that the fans on the UM3 are more powerful than the UM2, so you may want to check out your fan settings if it's got too much cooling/shrinking.
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Have you replaced the Teflon coupler? How many hours of print time do you have on the machine?
When you replaced the bowden tube: can you confirm that the widened out end is in your feeder and the flat end is the printhead?
Is your knurled sleeve still tight on the motor shaft?
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Hi, Marc,
To remove the white, L-shaped metal cover from the back corner, you want to remove the screw on the back panel below the feeder that's visible in your picture, and the screw on the left panel below the X-motor.
They're identified in the photos as the Left Cover screws. Depending on how old your printer is, you may only have 1 of these 2 screws; the early UM2s only had 1 screw holding each cable cover in place. The design was later changed to 2.
Okay, so it seems like the best way for me to reassemble everything is to take off the rear cover entirely and then attach the feeder casing to the motor.
Question: What screws do I remove in order to take off the rear cover? (I don't want to get into a similar situation by detaching something else I can't put back together!)
Thanks!
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Hi, RayvenMaker,
I haven't tried BuildTak with the UM3 yet, but there were a couple of other things I found useful for UM3 adhesion. The capacitive sensor board on the underside of the printhead is fairly sensitive. I found my results improved after I wiped the board down with alcohol and a paper towel. You can see it here in this photo:
The other thing I found really useful for UM3 adhesion, I think because of the increased fan power, was using the glue stick and a wet paper towel to have a very thin wash of glue on the areas of the bed I was printing on. I haven't attempted trying hairy spray instead of the glue yet; I'm having really excellent results with the glue on everything from 1 hour prints to 44 hour prints.
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Hi, Bobr,
Generally speaking, your PVA should be okay if left in for a couple of days (for example if you left printing on Friday, and came back on Monday). However, as a general rule of thumb, I'd recommend storing the PVA in a bag or plastic container with some silica packs to help keep the moisture out, especially if you live in a humid region.
If you know you're not going to use the BB Core for quite a while, you might also consider doing a cleaning, such as is described here when you take the filament out, though generally the printer is pretty good about pulling most of the filament out when you eject the material: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-maintaining-the-bb-print-core
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What sort of settings are you using? Are you using the advanced settings in Cura or the basic/recommended settings?
Have you performed a factory reset or updated the firmware since receiving the machine?
Is this happening across multiple gcodes?
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Glad to hear it's working now! And sorry to hear about the initial issues with getting the NFC cable to read.
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It also looks like the cable cover is still on. You might have a little more luck with screwing it all back together if you remove the cable cover so you can get at the motor more easily. It's held on by 1 screw below the feeder motor on the back panel, and one screw below the X motor on the left panel. The screws are identified here on the screw diagram as the Left Cover screws: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/206579613-Where-Is-the-Screw-I-Need-UM2-and-UM2-Extended-
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Hi, Claus,
I'm glad to hear the parts arrived so quickly and that is solved the issue you were having. We'll keep an eye on this issue.
Got the replacement rods and bearings today, they were easy to replace. These new parts are much tighter and there is no more rattle. However examining the two sets I removed there is quite a play on both of them. Seems to be a bad batch of either rod or bearing, hence probably installed in other machines than mine.
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There are a couple of things you could check on the XY axis.
Move the head by hand to the back right corner and home the head, and see if the noise occurs when it's only moving on the X axis, and move it to the front left corner and see if the noise occurs when it's only moving on the Y axis.
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Could it be the feeder? Does whether it's printing in PLA or another material make a difference to whether or not you're hearing the sound? Has the tension been adjusted on the feeders?
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Hi, Claus,
Do you hear the noise only when the printer is printing, or also when you move it by hand?
If you pull the printhead out of the machine (tilt the plastic sliding blocks until the printhead shaft pops out of the rod) and run the printhead shaft through the bearing by hand, you can check to see if you can isolate the noise to the printhead bearings, or whether there is something else on the XY axis causing the issue.
You might also hear noise during printing if the bed springs aren't quite tight enough and you end up with bed bounce, so you may want to check that those are at about a medium tightness.
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Hi, WiseOldOwl,
I'm sorry to hear the pulleys are off-round. Does the head feel like it moves smoothly?
Replacement parts are available for most of the UM2 components at fbrc8's webstore and ship anywhere in the US. fbrc8 is Ultimaker's North American assembly/support partner. It looks like we don't have the pulleys listed on the main webstore page right now, but I know we've got some in stock in the store if you want to email in at Sales@fbrc8.com.
Do you happen to have an UM reseller nearby that you could go and check in person their pulleys before buying?
No unfortunately I don't. I guess I'll have to tough it out and just buy a couple from different suppliers and spin them in the lathe to see which ones run true.
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Hi, Sealcat,
I agree with Torgeir about running the extrusion test. It was developed to run at 230 C, and will do that automatically from the provided gcode.
What's the volumetric extrusion rate you're printing at? That's your linear print speed (mm/s) X layer height (mm) X nozzle width (mm).
I'd also look at are your retraction settings, on the printer, and in Cura. It looks like there was a lot of flattening going on in the filament before it ground out, which could indicate too much retraction going on.
The last thing I'd check out is the screw tension on the 4 screws holding your feeder on. The UM2 feeders are a little more sensitive than the UM2+/UM3 feeders. A quarter turn of the screw can make a lot of difference. I usually recommend making all the screws hand tight with a screwdriver and then slacking off the screws by 1/4 of a turn. If the 4 screws are too tight, it can lead to extrusion issues.
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Do you have some more photos of the weak prints? Is it possible that your Z-axis may need a little sewing machine oil for lubrication? If you raise the bed up and down in the menu (Maintenance --> Advanced --> Raise Build Plate) does it move smoothly?
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The 2 Cores should always have a height difference of about 1.5mm to prevent the Core that's not in use from running into the print. The left hand Core is static and the right hand Core moves up and down with the use of the switching bay as neotko said.
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Hi, MuffinKiller86,
Regarding the print time, you're going to see longer times for dual extrusion prints compared to single extrusion prints the same size because every time the printer switches from one material to the other, it's going to take time to cool down the first nozzle and heat the second. It's designed this way to help prevent oozing across the model, but it does add more time to the printing.
Can you use less infill? Or go into the advanced settings and increase the layer height? I printed an model based off Escher's Relativity earlier this week and took the time down from about 3 days to 2 days by increasing from a .15 layer height to .2 and it still came out pretty well.
The image isn't coming through for your print, but one thing I've noticed with the UM3, is that I'm getting better results using a glue wash on the bed. With the UM2/UM2+ I very rarely used glue on the bed with PLA, but I'm finding it does make a difference when printing on the UM3.
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I usually use the 3D printed torque wrench when changing out the nozzle tips.
Is there any filament getting caught between the threads on the nozzle tips or on your Olsson block?
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Did it die in the middle of a print, or just wouldn't turn on one day? How old is the machine?
Have you tried turning it on without the SD card inserted?
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Hi, Andy,
I print with Faberdashery frequently, and usually have good results.
Is it the right size filament? I know Faberdashery makes 1.75mm and 2.85mm.
Did your filament get tangled? I usually set Faberdashery filaments on a lazy susan while doing long prints.
If you've been printing wth the Ultimaker silver PLA, the white Faberdashery PLA shouldn't adhere any differently from the silver, since they're both PLA. Have the shapes of your prints changed? What sort of bottom layer speed are you using?
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Hi, Bangalore,
The official side fans from Ultimaker are available in the US now via fbrc8. fbrc8 does Ultimaker assembly and support in the US, and we began carrying spare parts in spring 2015.
Anyone have any luck finding pwm compatible replacement fans for the sides yet?
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If the printer is restarting when the printhead raises above room temperature, it's possible that you have some sort of short in your heater. Has anything been disassembled recently? Is the back flap of your fan shroud (if you have a back flap on it) cutting into your heater cartridge?
Does whether or not the heated bed is on have any impact on whether or not the printer is rebooting?
If you unplug the power supply from the printer and the wall, does the blue light on the power supply go off immediately, or does it stay on for a while? It should stay on for a while; if it goes off immediately, then your power supply isn't behaving normally.
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The first photo almost looks like it's not getting enough cooling time (though I see the under extrusion in the second two). Have you tried printing more than one at once? Do all of your fans seem to be fully operational?
I would definitely recommend lubricating all three axes as soon as you get the sewing machine oil in. In general, it does make a world of difference to the functionality of the machine. Has the Z-screw been lubricated with magnalube since you've had the machine?
Have you made any adjustments to the feeder on the back of your printer? Is the knurled sleeve on the feeder motor shaft still securely in place? You might try slacking off the 4 screws holding the feeder on by about 1/4 of a turn if you're using the standard UM2 feeder.
Also, are you nearly at the end of that roll of ColorFabb? If you are and the filament is more tightly coiled, the feeder will have to fight harder to unspool it.
Have you checked out your bowden tube for any signs of damage or resistance?
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I'm glad you were able to get assistance. If there's anything else we can do, please let us know.
Hi Erin,
I cut/paste directly from your Contact page to support.
No worries, I was able to find a solution elsewhere
UM3 Not so good
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Dynamism is generally really great with their support support responses. I'm surpised to hear they haven't been responsive.
It sounds like you may have PVA burnt into the end of your nozzle tip, creating a bockage. The best way I've seen for cleaning out PVA burnt into the nozzle is to do a cold and hot pulls described on Ultimaker's website, but to also use a needle (a 29 gage syringe from the pharmacy works well), to insert into the bottom of the nozzle while it's hot.
Insert the needle into the nozzle tip from the bottom while the nozzle is hot, and then do the hot and cold pulls described here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-maintaining-the-bb-print-core I realize this is probably the same page Dynamism was directing you to, but the needle really does make a big difference.