fbrc8-erin
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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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I've got full instructions here for putting your XY axis back together: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207813353-Replacing-Parts-on-the-X-Y-Axis
Sometimes in transit, set screws in the pulleys will vibrate just loose enough to cause havoc. If the back pulley on the right hand rod is loose, you'll usually see a slanting print (with a left-right slant), and since the front panel is solid, that's about the maximum damage you'll see happen. One of the pulleys on the Y axis is loose, the rod is more likely to slip out since on the front and back rods that run through the side panel, the set screws on the pulleys are the only thing holding them in place.
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Since the heater is either on or off, it should be the thermocoupler regulating the temperature causing the issues. Hopefully you'll have the part in a couple of days and all will be well, but if you have any questions/concerns please reach out again.
It definitely sounds like your original thermocouple was the problem to begin with, but it sounds like there is a problem with your new one too. Can you contact the seller about the replacement you bought?
thanks, Erin... your company has already mailed a replacement
I really hope this solves the problems I've been having. The ONLY thing I haven't replaced in the hot end now is the heater itself...
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It definitely sounds like your original thermocouple was the problem to begin with, but it sounds like there is a problem with your new one too. Can you contact the seller about the replacement you bought?
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Hope you're feeling better! The part is all packed up and sent out this afternoon.
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Have you tried to contact iGo3D again?
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Hi, Katie,
Is that the side of the print that was against your glass?
Did you use glue on it?
If it's the side that was against your glass and you didn't use glue, the glass made need cleaning.
If you used glue, you may want to make sure to dilute it with water enough that the layer on the glass is totally flat.
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If it's scraping across your print, then I would recommend increasing your Z-hop settings.
If you turn the brim feature on, the main body of your print should be fine, and if anything warps, it should only be the brim. Do you have any photos of the print with the brim turned on?
The speed should be good then. I don't have a Z-hop set at all right now.
With those speeds, your print should be adhering pretty well. Like SandervG said, the it's going to come down to leveling, and possibly some sort of adhesive.
Did you clean your bed before starting the print? It won't adhere very well if the glass is dirty; you can clean it with a little soap and water, or some rubbing alcohol.
A thin layer of gluestick, diluted with water should help with a print of this shape.
The other thing you can check is whether the printer is in any sort of air flow from a fan vent. Generally PLA isn't too temperature sensitive, however, each of your layers is going to take a long time due to how much of the printbed this print covers, so you may want to make sure too much heat isn't getting out through the front of the machine or getting cooled off from above.
Tried everthing, cleande the glass with alcohol, Then put a layer of gluestick. No fan around . . .
Dont know what I can try next. Tried to prind the same file with an ultimaker and its perfect.
Im asking about the Z-hop, because the nozzle is always screching the fillement when changing the position.
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The speed should be good then. I don't have a Z-hop set at all right now.
With those speeds, your print should be adhering pretty well. Like SandervG said, the it's going to come down to leveling, and possibly some sort of adhesive.
Did you clean your bed before starting the print? It won't adhere very well if the glass is dirty; you can clean it with a little soap and water, or some rubbing alcohol.
A thin layer of gluestick, diluted with water should help with a print of this shape.
The other thing you can check is whether the printer is in any sort of air flow from a fan vent. Generally PLA isn't too temperature sensitive, however, each of your layers is going to take a long time due to how much of the printbed this print covers, so you may want to make sure too much heat isn't getting out through the front of the machine or getting cooled off from above.
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Hi,
Can you move the Z-screw by hand if you turn it, with the machine powered off?
Does the motor sound like it's trying to move?
You could hook your printer up to PronterFace to check and see if your endstops are functioning correctly. You can download Pronterface at PronterFace.com and trigger the endstops by hand and check the dialogue box to see if they working.
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Have you turned the brim option on?
What speed are you printing at?
Is this PLA or ABS?
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Since the print has a lot of edges and relatively thin parts, you could also turn on the brim setting under Platform Adhesion in Cura, and re-slice it.
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For this orange print...did the filament leak downward from the nozzle assembly, or did the print detach and end up stuck on the printhead and flood upward? The red print from the link on April 7, looks like that one came off the bed, rather than leaking down, so I'm curious about which way this one happened.
Just wondering. Did you readjust any of the x4 long screws on the top of the hotend? If not, that's just bad assembly. I would contact my seller so they take notice.
If you remove all the leak, remember to check the steel coupler since it might have residue that won't let the ptfe coupler go fully in.
@sandervg if this it's the second published case with um2+ hotend how many got ultimaker support team? https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20429-ever-seen-a-print-fail-this-bad-before
Any new about publishing the tool/tutorial to adjust the hotend or new um2+ hotend assembly tutorial page like the one that explains the um2 non plus?
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20409-um2-upgrade-kit-first-impression-and-some-tips#reply-143137
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In my experience, oiling the Z-shafts with sewing machine oil is absolutely as important as keeping the XY shafts oiled. I wouldn't recommend the Teflon infused lubricators, but, I use sewing machine oil regularly.
It won't fix the bearings if the bearings themselves are bad, but if the shafts are too dry, they won't run as smoothly as they should.
Have you tried adding sewing machine oil to your Z-shafts? If the bearings aren't riding smoothly on the shafts, that can contribute to your bed not moving well. I recommend adding a drop of sewing machine oil about 3/4 of the way up the Z-shafts, and then using Maintenance --> Advanced --> Raise Build Plate a few times to make sure it's evenly spread.
Weird. I did that two weeks ago but since there's always people saying that the z shafts shouldn't get any oil ever... I spread some sewing machine oil on a microfiber lens cleaning cloth then clean the z shafts with it. It works quite nice, but it won't revive any bad long bearings. Also it won't cause any z problems. I did too that Z raise, by hand with the machine off, a few times.
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Glad to help! We've got instructions up for replacing a lot of parts--there's instructions for just about all of the hot end parts, as well as the whole XY axis if you ever find yourself needing to replace the belts.
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Have you tried adding sewing machine oil to your Z-shafts? If the bearings aren't riding smoothly on the shafts, that can contribute to your bed not moving well. I recommend adding a drop of sewing machine oil about 3/4 of the way up the Z-shafts, and then using Maintenance --> Advanced --> Raise Build Plate a few times to make sure it's evenly spread.
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The other thing that gets a lot of wear and tear is the bowden tube itself. If you remove both ends from the printer and slide a piece of fresh filament through by hand, you should be able to move it fairly well. If you encounter any resistance points...there may be damage in your tube. Also, check out the photo here of the bowden tube: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205658894-Maintenance-How-Do-I-Maintain-My-Printer-
If the feeder end of your bowden tube is starting to look chewed up, you may want to go ahead and trim the end. Use an exact-o knife or similar to trim the last few millimeters and then widen it out to 45 degrees.
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Do you have a contact probe temp sensor to verify that your nozzle is getting to the temperature the printer thinks it is? I recommend a contact temperature probe rather than a UV one for more accuracy.
The other way to test and see if it might be reading off is to see if raising the temperature makes a difference.
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Those are great instructions for replacing the board, Artiz. We also have instructions available on fbrc8.com: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/206495413-How-to-Replace-the-Main-Electronics-Board-UM2-
You definitely always want to update the firmware on any new electronics board you receive; the standard firmware on the board is an older version of the Ultimaker 2 firmware, so if you have a 2+, or Extended, or Original+, it will be firmware for the wrong machine altogether at worst, and an outdated version of your machine's firmware at best.
In addition to the difference in the green terminal blocks on the board (as you showed with your two boards) the other thing people might see as different between an older board and a newer one is the presence of a black relay switch near the connector that controls the rear fan. The original version of the boards had the rear fan running 100% of the time. There was a switch at one point to make the rear fan only power on when the printhead is at 40 C or hotter.
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Having worked on UMO+ and UM2 machines flowalistik, I definitely agree with your assessment. Putting the machine together yourself does make it that much easier if you have to service it. Having the open sides does also make it easier to get at things like the pulleys and endstops if you need to change out parts.
I had a lot of experience with the UM2 machine before I ever set my hands on a UMO+. As far as assembling/disassembling/repairs go, I think you can access the pulleys easier to swap out the belts on the UMO+, but at the same time, I prefer assembling the UM2 XY axes to the UMO+ axes by a big margin. The UM2 pulleys all go straight to the ends of the rods, and the set screws hold them in place. Having the pulleys sit some way in on the axes was a little disorienting for me the first time I put together a UMO+.
The bed and electronics are the same. There are the differences in the printhead, but with the Olsson block on the UM2+ and the aluminum block with separate nozzle, those feel like they are starting to look more similar again. And now both have the geared feeder.
Right about the assemble vs pre assembled differences, but also the um2 family (I'm pretty sure) is not as easy to work on, fix, or add modifications.
Which is a noteworthy difference, since at some point you will need to fix something, replace a loose belt, re-tighten a pulley set screw, realign the axes on the print head with the sticks, add an improvement or mod to make it better, etc...
And these will not be as easy on the um2 family since they were not made to be as easily end user serviced or moded like the UMO.
Full disclosure , I don't have experience doing these tasks on an um2 , I just have the videos and forum info to go on. So maybe I am overstating the UM2 serviceability difference.
It's not more difficult compared to an Ultimaker Original+, although most users would find more trouble doing some maintenance due to a very simple thing: assembling an Ultimaker kit makes you see how everything works, it's a learning process. Ultimaker 2 users may not fully understand what causes a problem and that may lead to unnecessary tweaking before realizing that it's Y and not X what it's not working.
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The UMO+ just recently came down in price I think. When it was released a year and a bit ago, it was around $1500 USD I think.
I think one of the biggest advantages of the UM2 family over the UMO+ (they do both run the same electronics board and same heated bed, and now with the 2+ both have swappable nozzle tips), is the assembly. A lot of people assemble the UMO+ kits without an issue, but I know a lot of people also prefer not to be quite so hands on, and would rather have a unit assembled by someone with experience assembling the machines rather than assemble it themselves.
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If you've got Ultimaker 2+ machines, the fans should be fairly quiet. Would going without the hood or without the door (rather than without both), be an option? It really does sound like there's too much heat in there.
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This isn't my absolute most recent print, as I've been printing fairly heavily this week. But I just opened a batch of Faberdashery pearl white and I'm a little mesmerized by it. I kind of want to print everything right now.
This is Loubie's Aria dragon on Thingiverse/YouMagine. I love this print. A one-piece dragon with no supports needed.
And this vampire skull is for my mom's boyfriend. I printed one a couple years ago when I was new to 3D printing...that one wasn't bad, but this one looks so much better.
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I agree with what Yellowshark said. I think with smaller parts like that, you're going to want to print slow and cool. 205 or 200 may do the trick, but you might try cooler depending on your filament.
You also mentioned that you were printing with a hood and door. Have you tried printing without the hood or opening the door? With smaller parts, I generally don't enclose my machines at all. I put a cover over the front if I'm printing ABS, or if I have a PLA print that covers most of the bed. You're probably ending up with a lot of ambient heat inside the machine.
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On your heated bed cable, the 2 thicker wires are your heater wires (they may be blue and brown or gray, depending on your printer), the thinner wires (black and white, or just black) are your temp sensor wires.
If wires are all connected tightly, then it sounds like you could have a short in the cable, or that some of the soldering may have come apart inside the black terminal block on the bed itself.
If your printer is only 6 months old, you should be well inside the warranty period, and your local reseller can probably get you the part you need.
How to print this part?
in What have you made
Posted
I completely agree with Kris. That's going to get you the minimum amount of parts needing support. You might also want to turn on the brim feature under Platform Adhesion--since you don't have much surface area holding it to the bed (even with supports), turning your brim on should help stabilize it.