fbrc8-erin
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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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Hi, Apple_Jax,
What model printer do you have? USB printing isn't supported for most models of Ultimaker printers. The Ultimaker 2 series machines are all intended to print via the SD card; the Ultimaker 3 series can print via the USB stick, or print in Cura over wifi.
Also, what version of Cura are you printing with?
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thanks for the info the atomic pulls seems to stretch or just snaps even with just PLA,
the fan at the back of the heatsink starts when the nozzle temps go over 40c.
I put the bigger nozzle 0.6 in so far no clogs but the 0.25 and the 0.4 seem to just clog right away from just loading material in, you see the filament go into the black box and after a couple seconds the feeder start clicking and grinding the filament and nothing comes out the nozzle and from there its clogged and have to atomic pull to get the filament out of the TFM area and remove the nozzle to clear it.
Is there any chance your bowden tube isn't being seated fully after the Atomic pulls? With the UM2 printhead, it was pretty easy to see whether it was seated, because you could look through the spring and see the tube. It's a little trickier with the UM2+ because there's a solid metal piece instead.
But if you look at your bowden tube above the printhead block when the tube is seated, you should be able to check and see whether there are any collet marks on it. If you can see collet marks on the tube when the bowden is seated...it's not seated where it was when it was initially built at the factory, and I'd go ahead and try removing it, straightening it out, and seating it again. If it puts up a fight, you can try loosening the thumbscrews a little; it can get caught on the metal plate sometimes.
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What materials are you printing with? Are they both the same type of filament?
I don't see any visible gaps in the photo of all the pieces together, but it's possible there may be an issue with your Z-offset calibration. You may want to go back into the menu and run the Z-offset calibration again.
Also, have you updated the firmware?
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Sure I guess this is the standard small flat rate box.
There are many cheaper ways to send from US to UK but I appreciate probably too much admin to do it by weight / other delivery methods.
I can't use the EU re-sellers because none of them have updated their stock or are quoting 8 weeks lead time.
We did have a cheaper shipping option available at one point but it was terrible. Delivery was considered 0 to 999 days and packages seemed to detour for a long while before making it to their destination, so in the interest of offering better service, we dropped them in favor of FedEx.
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Went to buy from Fabric8, how the hell can it cost $40 to send a 10 gram nozzle from USA to UK?
I'm sorry. International shipping can definitely add up. We do free ground shipping within the continental US for all orders over $75, but unfortunately can't offer the same internationally. Most of the shipping companies often charge by box dimensions rather than weight for items this small/light.
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Yes, the noise is gone for now and has been printing ever since. (Fantastically may I add).
To help others let me say what I did:
I think the stepper may have slightly skewed and that then skewed the belt, not a lot but enough to create uneven tension. A search reveals lots of people with issues in that area.
There was also a slight buildup of rubber in the grooves which I cleaned out with some ISO and so that may have also contributed to the belts not sitting right.
I also cleaned and oiled the stepper itself, which had an immediate change of feel.
Just to conclude this nicely, here's what it sounds like now: https://goo.gl/photos/Y4aihrqQczxKqg739
One other thought since you mentioned the belt shreddding--how many print hours are on the machine? I usually find around 3000 print hours is a good wear and tear time for replacing belts.
I also don't see the blue clip in the printhead. Not sure if I'm just missing it in the shadows, but just wanted to mention it. You may want to go ahead and print some spares if it's missing.
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Can you check if the light it's brighter at 50% and at 0% doesn't go off?
Hi, I have exatly this problem. LED ist just at 25 % of its brightness, it does not go off or change its brightness if you set up a value from 1-100%.
If I set 0%, it is getting brighter and not turning off ??
You know this problem ?
You can open the electronics board and switch your side fans and LED connections in the electronics board.
Then, try to control your LEDs using the fans in the menu Maintenance --> Advanced --> Set Fan Speed, and try to control the fans with the LED menu for brightness. If the LEDs are responding normally when plugged into the fan port, the problem is your electronics board, not the LEDs. If the LEDs don't respond correctly in either port, then you just need to get a new LED strip.
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PVA is pretty humidity sensitive, so I would go ahead and store it in a sealed bag or container with some silica packs if it's not in use.
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Most UM2s have a dedicated fan port, highlighted in green on this picture. The very earliest ones don't have one. I've indicated the pins used for the rear fan in blue.
If you accidentally plug your orange and blue fan rear fan wire into the port highlighted in red (labeled 8/16) you're changing the steps of your Z-motor and it's only moving half as far as the machine thinks it is. Re-plugging it into the correct slot if it's in the wrong one should resolve the issue. If you managed to get it passed the calibration point, I'd also recommend a factory reset. If you can't get it passed the calibration point with it plugged in to the 8/16 connector, plugging it into the fan port alone should do the trick.
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PVA's default printing temperature should be 215. I'd recommend turning it up to get the feeding a little more even. How are you storing the PVA when it's not in use?
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Hi, Kyle,
fbrc8 has official Ultimaker spare parts for the UMO, UMO+, UM2(+), and UM2X(+), and we're located in the US. The .6mm nozzle is in stock: http://fbrc8.com/collections/3rd-party-parts-upgrades/products/olsson-block-nozzle-brass-0-6mm
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You may also want to go ahead and do an Atomic cleaning on the AA Core that had the under extrusion, just to make sure there's no burnt material in the nozzle, since it sounds like it kept running overnight after failing to extrude. The UM2 atomic method instructions here should work equally well for your AA Core. The only difference should be the menu for setting the temperature. I think it's Material --> Print Core 1/2 --> Set Temperature now.
If you have issues with the BB nozzle however, there are different instructions here, due to PVA being more temperature sensitive.
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Hi, Patrick,
Have you replaced the bowden tube recently? You can experience wear and tear with it over time, or have debris like ground up filament work it's way into it, causing the filament not to move smoothly.
The first place to look at if all the hardware is good would be your settings in Cura to determine your volumetric extrusion rate. You calculate this by using your nozzle width X layer height X print speed to get your extrusion rate in mm^3/second.
8mm^3/s running PLA at 230 C is considered a pretty healthy extrusion rate for this test. You can download the gcode here, which will automatically set the temperature 230 for this print: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2
This should give a baseline for how much under extrusion you're seeing, or whether the issue may be related to the gcode.
If you're towards the end of a filament reel and it's very tightly wound, you might also start to see some under extrusion because the printer is having to work harder to unwind it and get it through the bowden tube.
You mentioned replacing parts of the hot end--is your fan shroud touching the nozzle? If it is, it will act as a heat sink, and can cause under extrusion.
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It looks like the bowden tube isn't seated all the way down in the TFM coupler. Remove the filament and push the bowden tube in all the way--you should see the collet marks on the tube disappear. With downward pressure on the tube, raise the white collet up and slip the blue clip into place.
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PLA isn't hugely humidity sensitive. It's a good practice to put it in a container with a couple of silica packs, but it's not going to go bad in the span of a few weeks or even a few months unless it's getting exposed to extreme heat/humidity. I have some filaments that are a few years old that I still use occasionally from colors that were discontinued.
PVA is more humidity sensitive, so I'd recommend sealing the filament up if you think you won't use it for a week or more. Because it dissolves on contact with water, you really want to be careful not to let moisture get into it. If you're in a really humid environment, I'd be more cautious.
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Did you ever find out what is causing the noise?
Yeah @fbrc8-erin, it definitely is the bed-levelling after all.
As I wrote in my last reply, I had given the idea that the sound lasted throughout the entire print, which was not the case. Apologies for the confusion, but thanks for asking!
I'm sorry, it looks like I missed the last response. I was reading the earlier one where you'd mentioned the clicking being ongoing. Glad to hear it's working well!
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IF is that small tickticktickticktocktocktocktick tick tock tock is the autolevel system compensating the z of the first layers.
To completely remove that you need to do a manual calibration only (doing a manual calibration & setting auto calibration yo Never). That's what I use since I don't like automagicall stuff that i can't control.
I think there is more to it than just the autolevel system correcting for sub-optimal manual leveling. I have two reasons for this assumption:
1. It keeps doing it, even after paying real attention to manual leveling and making sure that the layer-thickness of the very first layer printed is very consistent height-wise
2. The ticking sound does not stop after the 10 layers that the autobed-level system is supposed to do it's task; in my case it keeps ticking throughout the entire print, regardless of how many layers are being printed (done some prints > 700 layers and enjoyed that sound until the prints finished).
So I guess we have to start a quest to find out WHAT ELSE might be causing this ticking sound. As the original poster of this thread I cannot locate the source of the sound and have no clue how to pinpoint what is causing it. If anyone has any idea, please share it with us so we can start printing quietly
Hey, Zwakie,
Did you ever find out what is causing the noise?
Have you tried putting spray air into the feeder to clean it of any filament debris that might be caught in there?
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The UM2(X), UM2(X)+, UMO+ and UM3 all use the same size glass plates.
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Since you're in the US, fbrc8 and your reseller are your local support, but the forums are also always a great options.
Have you updated the firmware since receiving your UM3?
Have you run the Z-offset calibration in the Maintenance menu?
Also, at the start of your print, are your starting with a clean nozzle tip on your core, or is there extra filament hanging off the end of it?
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Glad we could help! If you've got any questions about the assembly instructions, just reach out.
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Thank you.
I am not sure how to take a picture of a clogged cord... all i see is the hole with pva in it.
I also see, when trying to load the PVA it does not come out of the nozzle and it makes a gringing noise and when you unload the the PVA filament you can see where it cut a big grove in the PVA trying to put the filament through nozzle.
I have heated-up the core to 230 and tried to manually push filament through nozzle ... and can not get filament to push through nozzle.
Kind regards
BR
When you try to load the PVA back in after unloading it, are you cutting off the portion that experienced the grinding? If there's any grinding, you want to start with a fresh piece.
Have you had a chance to try using a needle to break the burnt material yet?
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Dynamism is generally really great with their support support responses. I'm surpised to hear they haven't been responsive.
It sounds like you may have PVA burnt into the end of your nozzle tip, creating a bockage. The best way I've seen for cleaning out PVA burnt into the nozzle is to do a cold and hot pulls described on Ultimaker's website, but to also use a needle (a 29 gage syringe from the pharmacy works well), to insert into the bottom of the nozzle while it's hot.
Insert the needle into the nozzle tip from the bottom while the nozzle is hot, and then do the hot and cold pulls described here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-maintaining-the-bb-print-core I realize this is probably the same page Dynamism was directing you to, but the needle really does make a big difference.
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The other thing to keep in mind with the ABS is that the fans on the UM3 are more powerful than the UM2, so you may want to check out your fan settings if it's got too much cooling/shrinking.
Grinding when starting a print
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Have you taken the feeder apart for any reason recently? Pinching one of the endstop wires between the feeder motor and back panel can happen pretty easily with the UM2 feeder design, especially if the feeder is removed without taking the cable cover off.