fbrc8-erin
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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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Hi, Wisar,
On all UM2/UM2+ series machines the knob front and knob housing are secured to the shaft coming out of the Ulticontroller board using a washer and hex nut. Is your knob housing loose in the frame? If it is, you can raise the bed and you should be able to find a hole in the top half of the knob housing at the back. Hold the knob housing in place a push a screwdriver through it to push your knob front out, and then you can use a pair of pliers to tighten the hex nut or check for debris. There are photos of the process here.
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How many print hours have you put on the printer since the last time you replace the PTFE coupler? It will deform over time due to friction and heat, and need to be replaced. The average lifespan of the coupler is about 500 print hours with PLA, fewer hours with high temp/abrasive materials.
Also, have you check your bowden tube for signs of damage? The printhead end should be cut flat. The feeder end should be widened out at 45 degrees. If the feeder end looks chewed up, you can try trimming a couple millimeters off and widening it out again. I have a photo here of a good feeder end and a bad feeder end for the bowden tube:
Also, if you remove both ends of the bowden tube from the printer (slide out the blue clip and press down on the white collet while you pull up on the bowden tube), try running a fresh piece of filament through the tube by hand. If you hit a point where it snags, there may be damage inside the tube.
If you have any ground up debris inside the tube or your feeder, you'll want to clean that out, because it could impede the progress of your filament. You can clean debris out of the tube by putting a little wad of paper towel in the tube and pushing it through with a piece of filament by hand. To clean the feeder, I'd remove the bowden tube and spray the feeder with canned air.
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I'm glad you've got it working now. It sounds like you could have also resolve the issue by tightening your bed springs a little to have a little more space between the nozzle and bed.
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The UM2 firmware runs the feeder in the opposite direction of the UM2+ firmware, so like neotko said, updating to the UM2+ firmware on your machine will resolve the issue.
Regarding the ferrite core; the ferrite core was a later addition to the printers, so the earlier UM2s don't have any. You don't have to have them, but if you want them, you should be able to find them online. With the UM2/UM2+ machines we put one around the Feeder and Y motor cables down by the electronics board, and one underneath the right hand cable cover wrapped around the X motor cable.
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Was your Ultimaker robot also sliced in KISSlicer, or is it the default gcode that came on the SD card?
If you slice in Cura are your results the same? Is your filament purging at the start of your prints?
What sort of bottom layer speed are you using, and what is your layer height? If you're trying to push too much filament out at once, you can see grinding and under extrusion. If the printhead is moving too quickly on the bottom layer, it could have adhesion problems and get caught on the head.
Are you printing in ABS or PLA?
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The super glue should hold it in place. I've seen this in a few instances. I think it may be the tolerances between the gear and the post, or green grease slipping between the two parts. So far, the printer I experimented with using the superglue seems to be holding. I think the gear slippage tends to be a wear and tear issue, though there could also be a slight variance in the gear size. I don't believe I've seen the issue occur more than once on the same machine, so it should only be related to the gear, rather than the feeder, as I will generally replace the gear if it it slips.
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I print mostly in Faberdashery (UK based filament) and Ultimaker filaments. I love the colors for Faberdashery and the fact that it's not on a spool--less curvature of the material for the printer to fight.
I've also printed with some of Protopasta's specialty filaments. I've used ColorFabb's bronzefill, but haven't tried out their PLA filaments yet, but they have a fantastic reputation.
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I haven't tested the Beta enough yet to know if there are issues with it, but this is the first I've heard of shifting related to the beta switch. If the motor is getting too much current you can sometimes see a hard shift in the print, or if the machine is over heating. When the firmware was updated, was a factory reset performed? If not, I recommend it.
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If your machine at work is an Ultimaker 2+, then it won't have a spare temp sensor. Since the 2+ comes with the Olsson block installed, you're unlikely to need to remove the temp sensor (unless it fails), so a spare is not included, just the extra nozzle tips. If your machine at work is an Ultimaker 2, whether or not it came with a spare hot end pack will depend on the serial number/when it shipped out.
You can bend the back flap on your fan shroud out a little, or break it off altogether. The Ultimaker 2+ fan shroud does away with the back flap on the shroud.
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Hi, Stephen,
That's your temperature sensor, not your heater. I do not recommend heating your printer while the temp sensor and heater are not both in the brass block. If the heater and temp sensor aren't seeing one another, your heater will heat indefinitely and that would end very, very badly.
Since you have an Ultimaker 2 Extended, your printer did come with a hot end pack, which has a spare temp sensor, for exactly this reason--it's very difficult to remove the temp sensor intact from the nozzle, due to a tight fit. Your heater and temp sensor wires both run from the printhead to the electronics board underneath your printer (left hand side). Unplugging the temp sensor and replacing it isn't too difficult. I have instructions here: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/206151456-Changing-Parts-in-the-Print-Head
Since the temp sensor cable is pretty slick, if you open up the electronics cover and pull out the existing cable from the TEMP 1 slot, you should be able to feed the wire up pretty easily through the black mesh.
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Thanks! I've been pretty impressed with it so far too. I don't print ABS often, but when I print it, I like to raise the temp to 110 and any sort of airflow near the printer without the cover makes it hard.
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It looks like Dynamism where you found the cover sells the replacement filters for $79 according to their site. I haven't gotten to the point of needing to replacement filter yet.
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Definitely not made by Ultimaker, but I have to say, I have one, and I like it so far. It's similar to the designs on YouMagine. In fact, the black plastic parts are printed in ABS. But it has a fan and filter up in the corner. So far, I've been using it for about 2 weeks for high temperature materials on a UM2+. I appreciate not having to smell any ABS while I work.
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Hi, SciRefDesk,
If you're having shifting prints, it's most often caused by a loose set screw, either in the pulleys on your axis rods, or on the motor itself. Are your shifts left to right or front and back?
Also, is your XY axis well-lubricated? Does the printhead move freely if you try to move it by hand with the machine powered off?
Use the 2mm allen key that came with your printer to check all the set screws in the rods on the pulleys and make sure they're tight. If they are, go ahead and try to home your head with Maintenance --> Advanced --> Home Head. It should home to the back left corner. Once it gets there, it should be locked in place. Try to move it forward, and try to move it to right. If you can move it in either direction when the motor is locked in place, then the pulley on the motor itself is loose (or the pulley attached to the short belt on the rod for the X motor). There are instructions here for accessing the motor pulley to tighten it.
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I'm so glad you like the upgrade. Your print looks fantastic!
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Hi, Bruce,
It looks like your black and white wire are screwed into the same hole, unless that's just a trick of the angle. They should be in separate slots on the terminal block. If any of those 4 slots is empty, you'll see an error message.
You might be able to solder the connection back together, but there's also a good chance that you're still under warranty. The UM2 Extended hasn't been out for much longer than a year, and all Ultimakers come with a 1 year warranty. If you'll send in your serial number and purchase information to Support@fbrc8.com we can check and see what we can do for you.
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Did you change it out for the same nozzle again, or did you install an Olsson block? Can you provide any photos if you're still having problems?
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Hi, tsharpe,
I'm sorry you're having trouble with your printer. fbrc8 is Ultimaker's North American assembly and support partner. If you want to put in a ticket to support@fbrc8.com, we can see what we can do for you. We're available by livechat or phone during business hours, but email or live chat is usually the easiest way for us to troubleshoot an issue so we can exchange photos/videos/instructions. If you'll send an email with the information listed here, it will make it easier for us to figure out the best way to help you.
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Well, that looks fun.
Is this a UMO+ or a UMO with a heated bed kit?
It looks like you probably have a loose pulley on your Y-axis, so the motor is missing steps. Check all of the set screws in your pulleys and on the Y motor itself to make sure they are tight. If you try to home the head, does it move smoothly, or does it struggle?
If your XY axes haven't been lubricated recently, you may want to check and make sure they are; the motor can miss steps if it can't move smoothly.
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That sounds like progress.
Sorry about that. :-) The knurled sleeve is the sleeve around the motor shaft. Early on the knurled sleeve was 12mm long and seated at the edge of the shaft. Later, a 15mm sleeve was used instead so filament didn't slip behind the edge of the sleeve. There was an intermediate period where the 12mm sleeve was recessed 3mm from the end of the shaft. Your sleeve should be secure on the shaft (we use Loctite to hold in in place), and the set screw should be tightened down to the flat side of the motor shaft for added stability.
100mm/s is definitely a lot faster than I usually print at. I generally print at 50mm/s. The faster you print, the more likely you will be to get shaking and lose quality.
Thanks for your reply. I've taken a break from it but will continue to fiddle around later and will post here when I do.
The feeder motor stopped clicking so much after I cleaned the nozzle, so perhaps I made some progress there.
It's a good idea to check the diameter if you're not sure; I haven't used that particular filament, so I can't really say anything about it one way or another. If you're checking the diameter the best way to check it is to pick a point, check it, rotate it 90 degrees, and check again, then repeat this at several spots along the filament. You want it to not only be 2.85, but also around...if you're getting readings that look oval, it's not going to feed well.
The fill factor increase I don't think should affect your print quality, but I'd be more inclined to print at 60mm/s than 100mm/s myself. With your UM2 feeder, if the printer can't keep up it will skip back rather than grinding the filament. With the UM2+ feeder, since it's geared, if the printer can't push out enough plastic, it would have no choice but to grind away, which may be why the settings changed to a more cautious setting, but that is only a guess. If you're printing at 100mm/s I'd increase the temperature to compensate for the speed.
With small layers, are you talking about objects like this?
Something small (that's a bit of an extreme example) definitely doesn't quite have enough cooling time generally with PLA. You could either slow it down when it gets to that point if you're near the printer, or you could print 2 at once, or, add a second item (a thin post for example) at the other side of the printer. It will have to go and work on that and then come back, which should give it ample time to cool.
With something like this dragon (it's one of my favorite models), the printer had a little more time to cool going between the 2 wing tips, which helped it turn out well.
Still, with the white and with the change in filament brand, you may want to try turning down the temperature to 200 or 205. I think the prettiest Ultimaker robot I ever printed was a 204. The overhangs were beautiful.
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Hey, Stephen,
I'm sorry, I've been away from the forums for a few days. It's very rare that I've seen a feeder motor be the issue. Is your knurled sleeve still tightly in position? What size nozzle setting and layer height are you using when you slice?
You mentioned correcting the diameter--is the diameter of your filament not 2.85? What diameter is it?
Acetone will flush out any ABS in the nozzle, but won't do anything for PLA. You can also try loosening the 4 screws holding the feeder housing on by a quarter turn each. If they're too tight, you can get under extrusion.
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I'm glad you're able to adjust it now.
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Hi, Stephen,
You could be seeing too much resistance from your bowden tube or PTFE coupler. Both parts are soft and can experience wear and tear, that will cause resistance in the filament's feed path if they're worn out. How much print time is on your machine? You can check this in Maintenance --> Advanced --> Print Time.
You can check bowden tube for damage by sliding the blue clip out sideways, and pushing down on the white collet while pulling up on the tube, at both ends of the machine. If you push a fresh piece of filament through by hand and find a particular point that's resisting you, there could be damage inside the tube. You can also check the feeder end for damage. You can see feeding problems if starts to look too chewed up. I have a photo here showing a good bowden tube and one in need of replacing.
If the coupler is bad, there isn't any way to see that short of taking your printhead apart, but a good rule of thumb on the coupler's lifespan is about 500 print hours with PLA. Over time, due to wear and tear, and heat, the end of the coupler closest to the nozzle widens out and forms a lip, which can create feeding issues.
The other thing that may have changed over the course of your printing, is how tightly wound your filament is on the spool. The closer you get to the end of a spool of filament the tighter the curvature is, making the printer have to work that much harder to fight against it and extrude the same amount of plastic. Are you very near the end of a spool?
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Hi, Hausen,
You should be able to adjust the screw visible from the top of the feeder (it may take a few turns before you see movement). The 2mm allen key that came with your printer should fit in the screw head. Have you disassembled the feeder housing at all (other than removing it from the back panel)?
Anyone other than fbrc8 US warranty support
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
Hi, LePaul,
I'm sorry to hear you didn't get a response. Our team is very conscientious about responding to all queries in a timely manner (our hours are 8-4:30pm central time). The easiest way to reach us is emailing Support@fbrc8.com, however, we are also available by phone and live chat during our office hours. Did you check the domain name when you emailed? We've had a few emails we found out bounced because the domain name was incorrect; fbrc8 should be spelled without any vowels. If you still need anything please don't hesitate to reach out to us and we can answer any questions.