[Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...]

Finally printing my first circle on the UM1, currently at 6mm/s, no problems so far

 

 

 

[123inkt.nl]

I haven't gotten any grinding as far as I can tell, and most of the filament measures in under 3 mm, ranging from 2,85 to 2.95/3mm.

I was just wondering whether the troubles I had with some prints could be because of the quality of the PLA, before I order more.

 

[Post your latest print!]

Have you ever seen an Ultimaker printing upside down?

 

 

[123inkt.nl]

Is there someone that ordered PLA at 123inkt.nl? I've had my orange from there, but since it's my first roll, I'm not sure whether it is really good quality or not.

Does anyone have experience with this PLA and other PLA?

Thanks!

 

[How do I convert an stl mesh file into a solid or surface model?]

If I understand correctly you have a STL file and you want to import it in SW in such a way that it recognizes features.

It should do that with the detect features function, but I havn't gotten it to work yet.

If you can post your file I can have a look. I also use solidworks and wanted to edit some STL files in the near future too

 

[Spiral of life]

Cool! I'm editing mine today.

 

[Peek into Ultimaker HQ]

We will draw numbers then!

 

[Dimensions not matching files]

So I've read about holes being smaller in real life than they are on the drawings, due to shrinking material. But I've had several parts now where dimensions were totally off.

Example one

 

The ulticontrollerwheel just didnt fit. It was a 5mm hole with a 4mm flat end, rather than 6mm and 5mm

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31989

Example two

 

 

Here you see the UltiFee

Nor the toe would fit in the foot, nor the ultimaker would fit in the foot(due to the tiny part with the air gap I think)

It is strange that the toe and foot don't fit, since they "should" have had the same error...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950

 

Example three

 

Here the holes that were supposed to fit M3(they should have been 3.2mm), measured roughly 2mm.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:388752

Example four

This nut calumet didn;t fit an M3 nut like it should:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:44118

I can hardly believe this all is due to shrink, thus I suspect an error in the machine. Any ideas?

I can try to find at which settings I printed the parts if it helps.

Thanks! Titus

 

[Ultimaker 2 Main Board]

Can you tell us what sales tells you? I guess some UM1 owners are interested in the UM2 electronics upgrade

 

[Let’s design a multirotor together.]

Droool :-P

I've pretty much always wanted to work with Quadrotors(tri/hex/octa just the same I guess). And they are partially the reason I'm going to do my masters in Mechanical Engineering with a specialization in Control Engineering.

I will be following this very closely! Though I'm not sure how busy my masters will be, I would love to contribute, perhaps write the control part or design an autopilot or something. There are also great open source initiatives founded here in Delft at the Technological University. But I'll post all that in the right topic

 

[Support depending on alignment?]

Actually, perhaps. I noticed some strange support behaviour. In a symmetrical part, it would do the left side, but not the right side. I havn't tried rotating the part though...

 

[Post your other Creative Things... non 3d print related ! ;-)]

Probably something UM1 owners would recognize easier than UM2 owners

 

[Post your latest print!]

Wow Targeter! That Pz 4 wirbelwind looks sweet!

 

[Post your other Creative Things... non 3d print related ! ;-)]

My Ultimaker is so awesome, that I decided I should get a print on my arm.

Do you recognize the part?

 

 

[Post your latest print!]

Remember Remember

My latest prints just keep breaking. I've been trying to print movable objects in single print:

The Maker faire robot: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:331035

The Legs from Adabot: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:367226%20The%20legs%20part

 

I think the last successful print is definitely the Ultimaker Handle, which is a huge upgrade

 

 

[Cool had lift setting?]

Theoretically, printing upside down would stop the oozing

But my guess is that it will introduce different problems:(

 

[Remap key functions]

Awesome Daid! Looking out for the PinkUnicorn release!

 

[Another green house]

Sweet job Kris! I was looking to make one for my UM1 too, but the printed hinges look really sweet.

Won't this give a problem with hot motors, since they are still enclosed in the green house?

 

[Cool had lift setting?]

You could add 2 small wipe towers, in the order, tower1>main>tower2. Then the double layers will be on the towers in stead of the main print I guess.

Or you could edit the Gcode so that before every z hop, it justs travels to 0,0 and stays there for a bit.

 

[Remap key functions]

Is it possible to remap keys, hotkeys and mouse buttons?

Now when I work in my design program and Cura, I mess up rotating and zooming etc. It's pretty annoying switching back and forth.

It could be an option menu somewhere, "keyboard/mouse shortcuts"

 

[Adabot]

Whoops, I was somewhere else with my mind. I added the link and managed to print my first successful legs:

 

 

[Gaining some insight]

I'm working with solidworks @ TU Delft, purely functional design Up until now most of it designed for laser cutting and assembling. From now on 3D printable stuff

 

[Adabot]

I came across this funny robot from Adafruit, the Adabot. Most parts are pretty straight forward, but the legs(and hips) are a challenge. What orientation would you use? Hips down, or legs flat on the buildplate? I keep breaking the part when breaking off the supports. Any ideas?

EDIT:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:367226

 

[Desoldering the Darlington]

:cool: Fan is working like it should now!

EDIT: Perhaps We should fork this post(and your two) into a new topic?

/offtopic:

Thanks for the endcaps idea. I'll pursue that. Also I am going to look at my pulley alignment and the XY blocks, I think there is some friction there too due to the screws. Ideas?

As for the printbed, the wood is curved and when I try to level the bed I can't actually move all four points up and down, some only down, others only up... This is not the main problem, but when a print starts, it zeroes, the Z endstop triggers when the tip hits the printbed. But when going to the start after purging the nozzle, it starts like 3 mm above the printbed. Though I can fix this in the start Gcode, I believe it should be fixed on the machine. Ideas?

 

 

[Desoldering the Darlington]

Mission successful, pins are out, soldered a new one in. Assembling now, will let you guys know.

I'm servicing my UM totally, for the first time that I've had time for that since I bought it second handed. So after this I will work on the huge amount of friction while moving the printhead, and the NOT so flat printbed Perhaps I'll open up some more topics along the way.

Thanks!