Titus
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Titus
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As concluded in multiple topics the always on problem for the fan on the hot end lies with the Darlington(UM1) transistor most of the time.So I got a replacement at the Ulti-evening and now I'm trying to desolder the broken one. But it's giving me a hard time.
I've managed to get the bottom pretty much clear, but since there is a via, the top is also soldered. I'm not sure whether to snip the darlington off so I can try to pull each pin out individually and clean up with desolder wick. I'm afraid I won't be able to grab the pins anymore.
Any advice?
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Cool, free samples?
I've known Igus for a long time, they make cool stuff!
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I do know you, since you had the only UM2
But the lables yeah, good idea, with name/forum name on it!!!
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Woa, in preperation for the 9th season I'm watching season 7 now, and I want to plan a 24h watching session of season 8
NON STOP 24 for 18 hours(due to commercials).I'm kinda afraid of what the emo look will do to her character though.
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Well, it would help if peoples avatars were also faces
The pulling with the filament and the extra piece of bowden to double your force was very smart Joris!
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Also, "hagelslag" is not the best type of chocolate to melt. I'd use "smeltchocola' for chocolate fondue
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Managed to pack my UM1 for public transport. On my way from Leiden to utrecht zuilen
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Hi! Welcome! It's great to see you building the UM1
If the fan nut continues to give you trouble, you can always print other fan heads, like this one, or the circular ones.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:77107
Printed it in orange PLA, really surprised with the quality.
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I'm able to print from SD cards yes
Just hoping the chocolate printing doesn't involve real time control of your UM from a computer. Otherwise I guess ProtoSpace has some desktops that I might be able to use. As for transport, I'll have a look, the walk from Utrecht Zuilen is only 1km
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I've been wondering that in general, if someone asks you to print a design that was published as open source non commerial, are you allowed to ask for material/energy costs? What about time/effort to get it right?
Anyway, /ontopic: what 3Poro mentioned could be interesting: having 3rd parties produce (quality!) spare parts, could make the people happy(cheaper, better availability), and release some pressure on the UM production line.
I'm not sure if last is a benefit, since I have no clue what the business strategy is with regards to making and selling parts vs machines.
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Awesome! Count me in. I'll try to bring my 'new' printer by public transport, even though it still requires some tweaking, or is there someone else coming from somewhere Leiden/Den Haag/Delft/Rotterdam? Is there a place to sign up, or is a comment here enough?
I don't have a laptop though, will that be a problem?
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Same problem here. I'll pop the bottom off and get my soldering iron. Is there a way to measure if the transistor is working?
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I saw an UM1 with a square chipped out on the 0,0, so the purge would fall into the frame, in an container, next moving it to the right Z height, wiping of the nozzle towards the startpoint, and drawing a nice line. Very cool design!
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Drool@ dual extruder
VIDEO! VIDEO! -
This is actually a very usefull feature in my opinion. It makes sure your hot end is actually full of molten filament before starting to print. It has happened to me multiple times that it started printing without plastic coming out because I just changed the fillament and it hadn't reached the hot end yet. The purge helps you to make sure there is material coming out
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Oh really, I didn't know the UM2 didn't add start or end G code. That changes things completely for UM2 users.
Adjusting things from the machine end are great, as long as it saves the setting. Making that 0.01mm increments would allow users more control indeed.
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@PM_Dude: That was what I was thinking too!
On topic, wouldn't it be easy to add a line to the start G code, moving the z axis a little, and zero'ing it again, just like the extruder does before a print?
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I had the same problem once, and I was scared because I think I found a heat sink in my room that looked like one from a stepper driver. After moving the head manually back and forth for a couple of times it seemed to work again. Should still check whether the heat sink was from the stepper driver though, didn't have the time until now.
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Wow that is actually pretty cool! Could you post some more info on that Zoev89? Pictures of the results and how you did it?
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Wait, so it's not starting in the front left corner?
That is a good thing, otherwise you will hit your freshly printed things. It should start either right front working to the back or right back working to the front, both going leftwards.
If you look at the "tools" menu, are you printing one by one, or all at once?
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I've had problems in Cura 14.06 and 14.06.1 where it wouldn't actually do anything with the changes I made in the software. Only rebooting both Cura and the UM seemed to work.
14.07 seemed to have fixed that.
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Same here, add opera to the list of browsers!
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I can't wait till my exams are over and I can start printing
On a slightly unrelated note, I can't watch the videos uploaded here. It installed a quicktime plugin but next it doesn't recognize the videos...?
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There is a very complete post on this somewhere on the internet. I found it while not studying late at night for my exams this week. Can't seem to find it now :(
The author described how he cleaned his nozzle from PLA, ABS, using nylon.
Will report back when I found it again.
EDIT:
I think it was this one:
http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning
NON STOP 24 for 18 hours(due to commercials).
Desoldering the Darlington
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Thanks for the reply. I tried the last option already, but I can't really heat 3 pins at the same time. So snipping it is.
What happens when you don't have anything in place of the darlington(i.e. I snip but I can't de-/re-solder)