Titus
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Posts posted by Titus
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Like Gr5 said, it could be from everywhere! The thing is that bolts dropped out, no nuts. I'd say check the printhead where the thermosensor board is attached. There's bolts without nuts there(but with the nylon spacer units)
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That is to show the benefit of transferring from Rotor based to wing based: save energy, gain tons of speed/ontopic:
Something like this should be manageable printed:
EDIT I think it is important to choose between a quadrotor designed for indoor or outdoor use. This will determine the size, need for certain payload, gps requirements etc.
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Wow, I had no clue this was happening this week. I was about to say that I know the Technical University of Delft has the IMAV lab, where they use/work on paparazzi.
I could try to make contact with the MAVlab here in Delft on behalf of the community, to see if they have an ear for the project.
/offtopic: by the same lab a VTOL that flips to horizontal flight. For take off and landing it uses quadrotor principles, with powerful motors. In flight it uses wings to support smaller motors, for longer flight time:
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let's start a pool....
My guesses are
heated bed kit for UM1 (duh)
dual extruder for UM2.
My guess is that the dual extruder for UM1 is out of beta, with a new Cura update too
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I've seen this too. I believe it to be a model issue. Please check if you can import the model somewhere it was created(sketchup, openSCAD, etc) and export it with different settings that make a better model.
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I heard a new rumor yesterday that there are MORE THAN ONE major announcements to occur at makerFaire NYC. More than one new things will be for sale. So check the UM Store in the days leading up to Sept 20.
Though I haven't heard the rumor, I was thinking TWO things to be exact
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Looks like a very nice part!
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Just something that popped to my mind:
We could dedicate (part) of next ulti-evenings to this, or organize another meetup, with a teleconference(FabLab Polycom could be a suitable system) for all the people abroad. Get this thing 'off the ground'
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@Korneel, ProtoSpace has some courses that teach you more about 3D printing and the Ultimaker. There is also a build course, perhaps there is a way to skip the building and only do the learning part. Definitely stop by some day and talk to the awesome lab managers.
@Sander, are you guys planning another ulti-evening
? Last time was awesome and I learned so much more since! -
MY DAY WAS AWESOME
Nuff said.
You may guess what I did
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Nozzle is .4, shell is .8(2 times nozzle)
I try to keep the top/bot thickness roughly 5 times the layer height, .2 and thus 1mm in this case.
/Offtopic: no, no cool head lift setting(yet)
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I've actually always had the problem that pressing "lay flat" would do the opposite too. An already flat object would become inclined. Therefor I never use the feature, but it always struck me as strange...
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Normally I'd say put some sewing machine oil in it, as more often referred to in this topic, but I don't know how PVA reacts to that. You could test it on a little piece first.
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I don't have my printer here, but I do believe I have most pictures.
Probably nr 1 upgrade:
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Oh and don't forget that this was a must after the blue horse shoe went missing:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864
Actually, I never got the black injection mold thing from the guy I bought my printer from after we printed this together...
After that I must say that some toolthings are quite useful, just as a kind of Z level finetuner:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:371441
A nice fan shroud seems like a good plan, I currently use this one, but I was looking at a circular or something like mentioned above.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:77107
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Wait, doesn't PVA dissolve in warm water? Perhaps carbonized PVA doesn't... I guess you could try to print at lower temperatures, though I don't have any experience with PVA.
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Dear Community,
Curious as always, I had a question about something I see happening in Cura from time to time.
For example, when slicing this calibration pyramid, I noticed that when it's closing the bottom surface, it leaves 'holes'(X% infill) where the legs of the pyramid will come as can be seen here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757
It makes sense since if it were a bigger part, it would also just continue the mesh when going up, but especially for smaller parts, I believe the breaking point is quite often located here as it is a structural weakness. Would it be possible close these squares also, so that the legs are attached more firmly? This would require a general closing of the mess at some layers.
EDIT: Actually, there are 2 layers(0.2mm) completely closed before the holes start. But why not the entire top thickness?
/offtopic:
when printing this pyramid, putting the travel time at 60mm/s it estimated 26 minutes, at 200mm/s travel it was estimated at 28 minutes
What could be happening there? -
I had it working at some point. I could watch clips(didn;t try those above though).
Now I get a still for most clips, and still a ? for the ones in the first post.
Updated QT etc.
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I believe the oozing is caused by the thermal expansion of the PLA(it also oozes when upside down). It should happen just at the start for a little while, and then stop.
Before I print I always grab the ooze that is sticking to the print head as a part of my startup routine. I am looking for a better way though, With the oozing I wouldn't be able to operate the printer remotely. Perhaps cutting a hole in the buildplate at 0.0 or an other spot to let it ooze out, and scrape it of or something like that is a solution.
I'm eager to hear others about their startup routines.
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Perhaps printing on duct tape is the key!
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I just figured that if the quality in terms of tolerances was less, it would also say so
But instead they gave me a very clear and precise answer on my email. -
wtf? I ordered 3 more colors(red, yellow and blue, already had orange). Two of which came on the same spool as the orange, and the red one came on a different one. Smaller diameter, thicker spool.
Different manufacturer? Probably different tolerances.
Min Max Orange 2,9 3 Red 2,83 2,88 Yellow 2,8 2,95 Blue 2,83 2,92
Not really consistent diameter across the length of the plastic... That is not the real problem, it's the fact that different colors have different averages... Therefore swapping between colors becomes problematic, you'd have to correct with flow.
How is that with materials from UM/ColorFabb/Plastic2Print/MTB3D? Are they consistent average between colors?
Conclusion: 123inkt is budget PLA. Don't buy if you want consistency.
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I have a theory of your secret recipe Sander! Will try cura scaling again at some point
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First try at 0.25 scaled, completely stuck :(
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I was looking at this pretty cool app:
You can design your own creatures and create multicolor stl buildplates to print. Pretty awesome!!!
I printed some things to try it out but whenever I try to snap two pieces together, it cracks, or layers peel right off due to shear forces. Any idea on how to improve this?
I pulled the files from thingiverse to try:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:401830
That is to show the benefit of transferring from Rotor based to wing based: save energy, gain tons of speed
What could be happening there?
123inkt.nl
in Materials & profiles
Posted
Yup, it's the underextrusion due to different diameters that I'm more worried about. I haven't measured above 3mm yet. But way under:
Yup, that part was supposed to be together firmly.
I think the ninjaflex is ok, because that is still good quality stuff, but the PLA they sell is probably cheap stuff.