Titus
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Posts posted by Titus
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Yeah, it isn't listed at the ultimaker materials
I missed it the first time too.
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Wow gr5, that is a lot of useful info. I didn't realize that spiralize meant one pass, otherwise I wouldn't have upped the wall thickness etc so much! I was only trying to get it thicker, using more passes
Will experiment with the feature again after my remove top and 0 % infil is done.
@Blizz, that is the otherway, just uncheck fill top, and put a 0% infill.
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I saw the topic title and was like, woa, that is the IP that I use to get into the Doodle3D box! So what happends when it detects the box? I'm not at home atm to test it.
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Update, I tried a "solid" print with 20 % without spiralize, works perfectly fine...
So this is probably a Cura issue with the spiralize setting, or I'm not using it like I should.
I guess the remove top and 0 % infill is indeed the way to go....
I was printing this vase Duesentrieb:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19031
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I've decided to go and give vases a try: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19031
But I can't seem to get the bottom solid, or the walls stick to the bottom/thick enough.
I used the following settings:
Check spiralize in expert settings
layer 0.2
shell 1.2
bottom 1.2
fill 20
speed 75
temp 210(PLA)
flow 110
As you can see in the pictures it looks like backlash, but other objects don't seem to suffer from it.... I attached my Gcode, could someone run that to see if it's my machine or the gcode.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/whkrlfvy2n8q78p/gearedVase1.gcode
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Print Vote: Preassembled Secret Heart Box
Tried it before, didn't work out, looking forward to another try!
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Damn Daid, that picture got me. I thought it was a link to photo of the bed
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@SandervG, you can suggest any model for next month, the current models that were suggested(winner is decided by a vote) are:
MPC PRINT LIST:
A Better Dragon, by illuminarti: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:218026
(0 Votes)
Bracelet - Voronoi Style, by roman_hegglin: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:192211Printed in July; 4 votes.Preassembled Secret Heart Box, by emmett: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:44579
(0 Votes)
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I'm afraid that I didn't managed to print one. I tried one but it didn't stick to the build plate and got ruined :(
As it turns out, it was too complicated for me :( I'm still tweaking the printer
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Found it already
Cool stuffs -
Oh well, today was a good day as I learned something
Tomorrow is another day, time to fix other problems of my poor Ultimaker
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Oh boy, I totally forgot. I spend all my time test printing stuff!
Will print it tomorrow! I actually really feel like printing without supports
Not sure what will happen though.@Aaron, when will we start voting for a a)winner, b)new month, c)new posts
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Just scale the holes with a few percent. This is why modeling with oSCAD is so awesome; its very easy to change the parameters.
Thanks! I just discovered how that works, after installing OSCAD, which is some kind of PCB design tool
I'd have to use that more often! But do you guys open the SCAD file before even printing it and sizing everything up?
It doesn't sound really user friendly, especially for UM2 users that want a desktop printer. It's still hard to believe
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@Anon, either you fix that in the software(just let two wheels run backwards), or put in an extra gear/ reversing transmission.
I think the first option is preferred as to keep the maximum efficiency.
Actually, what about something way cooler. We put freewheeling wheels in there, and use the air to propel the robot
Like a hovercraft on wheels -
Hi all,
Is there a way to set the speed at which the top layers are printed? I see the bottom layer speed in the advanced tab, but for prints with small tops, it would be nice to set a higher top speed to avoid smudging the print(no need for a wipe tower perhaps?)
What do you think?
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EDIT: For the record,
I print most of my prints at 210 degrees C now
Layer : 0.1
Shell: 0.8
Bot/top: 0.7
fill: 20%
speed 75 mm/s
So now it's just a case trial and error? I can hardly believe that you would need to print every file you take from youmagine/thingiverse and print it, measure and rework it, before it is usable. That just doesn't sound right :(
For example. I wanted to print this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126716/#files
And the big hole on the Chariot that should fit a M4 bolt, just fits an M3, and the M3's don't.
Could there be something else wrong?
- Flow?
- Friction in the printhead(hard to move on it's own)?
- Print settings?
- Cooling fan shroud shape?
From another topic:
Both images seem to show infill not meeting the shell which implies play/backlash. More play than my UM Original.
I can't put more tension on my short belts I believe. Could it also have something to do with the friction in the long belts(Mine's pretty high)
It could be fixed by a higher overlap I guess, but that would also introduce new problems right?
- Flow?
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There is only one flaw: The wheels would need to flip to the sides (in line with the propellers) in "flight-mode". THAT is the real challenge which they obviously avoided
Nop, it flies without flipping the sides:
On a related note, we could also design something like this, to avoid it breaking down:
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I'm not sure if Cura can do this, but you can always reverse your wires on the motor and use the bottom endstop
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Ok, this one is interesting:
I removed the dampers on X/Y(still there on Z, planning to remove that one too.)
Result: Round circles, but still to small ( 5,6mm vs 6mm and 4,4mm vs 4,5mm)
Getting there! So, what's next?
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Bericht van 123inkt:
Goedemiddag,
Dit hebben wij uitgezocht voor u.
De diameter van de plastic is 3 mm met een tolerantie van 0.05 mm .
Ik hoop u hiermee voldoende te hebben geïnformeerd.
Met vriendelijke groet,
Krystian Wierachowski
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Hm, strange results:
Top is new, with dampers,
bottom is old, without dampers
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The circles seem alright, dampers installed on both X and Y, therefore the circles should look circular again?
The dimensions are 4mm and 5,5mm instead of 4,4mm and 6mm.
So I guess this is a shrinkage issue. I'll print the ultifeet again, to see if they fit now.
Or it could be a cooling issue, since the top layers are printed slow as well?
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I took the LeFabShop belt and printed it for a wristband:
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Hi Robert, Gr5,
I'm on a UM1. I tried to tighten the short belts to counter any backlash, but I also installed the dampers and they introduced a little play(is play the same as backlash?), as you can see here:
Though the short belts feel not that tensioned, I can't really get more tension on it.
- I've checked that 12 pulleys are tight
- The belts are above each other, so the pulleys should be properly aligned
Things that I haven't done yet:
- check the alignment of the axes, as described here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Calibrate
- investigate the ticking noise I'm hearing, which sounds like one of the axes is sliding to the back and front. I tried to fasten the endcaps, resulting in nothing, unfasten them, resulting in more movement.
Right now I'm printing another controller wheel. Will post updates on how that goes once it's done.
- I've checked that 12 pulleys are tight
Like a hovercraft on wheels 
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
I printed the 0.7 scaled:
Leaking at the bottom somehow, and underextrusion at some point, probably due to spool friction