[A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer]

In Amsterdam ready for my flight home tomorrow

[A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer]

Yes it's a very good result.

It just sounds funny to be using a race nozzle at 30mm/s.

[Gluing 4mm flat object together]

Also Acrylic glue works well for PLA as it slightly melts the surfaces together.

You can use Acetone for ABS.

[A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer]

30mm/s on a race nozzle???

[Testing ColorFabb nGen: can I do better than that?]

I have never used an UM0 before but I'm sure I have read that the travel speeds can't go as high. UM0 also has a longer heat zone so you may need to tweek the temp or something to battle the Stringing.

[How does your support generation strategy change when using CPE vs ABS?]

I just found some of the rings of roof support stick with CPE and have to be cut off, where Pla they just peel away.

But this may just be a temp thing on my part.

Maybe one of the pieces for the cube puzzle would make a good test. They are small and you could rotate it in a way that requires support.

[How does your support generation strategy change when using CPE vs ABS?]

It was in PLA not CPE thought. But I found that it still works well for CPE but I normally don't use support roof.

[How does your support generation strategy change when using CPE vs ABS?]

 

HERE: is the one that I first learnt this technique and was impressed with its overall results.

[How does your support generation strategy change when using CPE vs ABS?]

With PLA and 80% support roof this method makes for very smooth overhangs.

I have a few objects but I don't have the files with me and it will be 3-4 days before I could dig them out. Still traveling.

[How does your support generation strategy change when using CPE vs ABS?]

Hey Matt

Good to see you on the forum

If I have to use support then I usually print with the .25 nozzle.

I normally print a .1 layers with a .4 nozzle, so if you print with .1 layers with the .25 nozzle the increase in print time is only on flat surfaces. So as long as there are no large flat surfaces then the extra print time is minimal but the support comes off so much easier. I then leave the support settings on default.

[A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?]

I had a 16 hour print fail at 15 hours 40min.

[Negative cliff angle (overhang ?) lift and over-extrusion ?]

30% infill.

Even if you use more powerful fans, when you print fast it pulls in more so the curling is more then when you print slower.

There is a point when your printing temp is two low then it will start to curl as the material starts sticking to the cold tip of the nozzle and dragging it.

Also there is a point where having a hot nozzle touching a model with more infill keeps the layer soft like chewing gum.

But all this depends on how picky you are. For normal prints you don't want to have that much experimentation to get it right so you need to be a little less worried about some inperfections.

But it you want that one perfect print then just the your time to learn how the settings effect your print.

[Negative cliff angle (overhang ?) lift and over-extrusion ?]

Yes you can repeat that on a stock UM2 as it was my bench mark when I first started 3D printing

[How to print matching threads?]

I don't. Just heaps of cooling and print slow and cold.

[replace the spring with ring]

I'll add it to my list for when I get back. I require one for myself anyway, and if I'm making one then make more wont be much more work.

[Any idea on why this is happening?]

Depends on layer height but default is 210 deg for 50mm/s.

Something has changed you just have to find out what.

Feeder skipping means it's gripping so I would rule that put unless it needs a clean.

So could be loose or problem with temp sensor.

Heater not fully in.

Bad Teflon

Hotend parts not mating together properly.

Bad settings.

Bad roll of filament.

Remove the bowden tube and try to push the filament through by hand.

[replace the spring with ring]

yeah. shipping to Netherlands would be $9euro

[replace the spring with ring]

I can easily make alloy ones with slots in them so you can see the bowden tube.

[Any idea on why this is happening?]

It under extruding on supports and infill. Have you updated cura around the same time as you did the work?

There are advanced setting in which display all the different speeds. Some updates have the support and infill speed to fast. This causes under extrusion.

Or it could be that something is not sitting correctly in the hotend after you changed the Teflon.

I would also increase the temp as 205 is a bit low for 100mm/s

[Colofabb, how to tell a filament is brass, copper or bronze.]

Yes you can tell by color as seen HERE

[A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?]

I also visited the fablab in Delft the other day.

It look like they have the same layer shifting issues in london.

[A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?]

I took the very same picture the other day

[Ulticreatr 2X: Dual extrusion for Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 2+]

Could you also provide feedback on the kit once you get it sorted. It will be good to see how it goes. Quality of hardware and how well it prints.

[Machinable wax]

Good to know. I would love to try it some day.

[Sensors malfunctioned? Have to increase temperature for a particular filament considerably.]

If the white works but the black doesn't then it sounds like it's a material issue.

Are you sure the black is Pla?  Maybe it was labeled wrong.