Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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That's the extended not standard um2
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The old um2 pt100 weren't always very accurate. I had one that was 20deg out and had similar problems like you.
Replaced it and it was all good after that.
This is why the um2+ has an improved pt100 that is a lot more accurate.
If yours is intermittent then it may due to a loose wire, broken wire or the pt100 could be damaged inside.
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If using z hop then it doesn't really matter if you have combing on or off. But you would want to set the height of the Z hop higher then the length of the amount of ooze.
In saying this z hop can add it's own flaws. But this is down to what you deem acceptable.
But you could use retract while combing plugin.
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Just buy a bigger microscope. That way you can print it a bigger size.
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My Favourite is Onshape.
But just use the one that you find the most intuitive and meets your design requirements.
My models are mainly functional parts which suits Onshape but if you want arty stuff you should look elsewhere.
I did design this cannon easily enough though
also look for one that has heaps of tutorials like what fusion360 and Onshape have. This will greatly help if you get stuck on a feature.
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The wider area sits more flat and helps give a more accurate reading where the thin area can easily go on a slight angle so the reading is not as accurate. It also has more chance of digging into the filament.
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if its like the left one then you need to increase the feeder pressure.
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the plastic should not come out the top of the heater block. only the end of the nozzle.
Can you try to take a good picture of your hot end?
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Which one looks like yours after it pass through the feeder? It should look more like the one on the right
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Sorry but i cant see anything in the picture.
If you remove the bowden tube out of the hotend and heat the nozzle up can you easily push filament though?
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You can put oil in the bowden tube but this is normally done with flexible filaments like ninjaflex and you only need 1 drop.
You may need to accompany some of your descriptions with some photos. What is the impression from the knurled feeder wheel into the filament? it should have between 2-3 indentations from the feeder wheel side by side.
You should really remove all bad sections of filament.
What filament are you trying to print with?
The smoke sizzling may be coming from the oil, it can also be from high temps (maybe bad temp sensor) or you may have bad filament.
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Have you turned on email notifications in your profile?
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Wow it would have to scan pretty good for that money. I have been wanting a 3D scanner for a while but im not that desperate to part with that much and i certainly wouldn't want to have to waste any time manually stitching models or muck around setting up. especially seeing most of the time it will be sitting idle until i find something that requires scanning.
I just watched the EinScan-Pro video and the guy doing the art stuff looks disgusted by the results.
With the amount of interest in 3D scanners now it would be nice if UM continued with Nallath's project. But i guess sorting out Cura is more important at this stage.
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Good luck!!
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What temps and speeds are you trying to print with?
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You don't want to lubricate the filament going into the feeder. That may just cause more issues and my introduce slipping. If the feeder is grinding then it probably means that it's not tight enough pushing onto the filament or really tight. Or there is a problem in the hotend so the filament can't push through.
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Don't bother with printing with bowden if you require a lot of retractions. If it's a simple shape then you can get it to work quite well but you really need a head mounted feeder or flex drive if you require good retractions.
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It sounds like you have an issue with the heater block. It should not have any plastic on the top of it.
This means there is a leak somewhere or something is not aligned or installed correctly. Have you tried doing an atomic pull to make sure the nozzle is not blocked? If you do this you may see where the issue is.
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If you are using colorfabb then it should be within +/- 0.05mm of 2.85 as advertised. if not you should contact them.
i have measured mine regularly and it has always been bang on 2.85.
Measure the filament in a few places and rotate it also to check to see if its round.
Does it matter? well this depends, I have found that it doesn't matter that much but it will depend on how far out the dimensional accuracy is out, what you are printing and if its very inconsistent then you will see more issues.
I would check your caliper first. make sure you zero it with a light force that is the same force you measure your item. Measure something which is larger that will show if the scale is correct.
Some calipers are inconsistent when the battery gets low and some don't work correctly if the slide gets grease/oil or water on it. so you could try cleaning it with alcohol.
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Has anyone been to Zandvoort circuit park?
I would like to attend the DTM racing and want to book a seat but its hard to know where to sit is good. quite a few areas are already taken
also if anyone wants to join me let me know. i was just going to attend 1 day.
Sorry, I have never. I'll see if I know anyone who has.
Sweet, thanks
I understood the 'Tarzan corner' was a good place to stand as there is often a lot of action. Action being cars spinning out of control
Sounds good. I'll book my ticket and aim for there then.
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I have both and I would get the extended. It does get a little bit of vibration lines on tall parts but small items that you would normally print on the UM2 are the same, for the flexibility it's worth it to have the extended.
The UM2go has the best quality and is my most used printer.
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Have you tried printing on blue tape?
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Has anyone been to Zandvoort circuit park?
I would like to attend the DTM racing and want to book a seat but its hard to know where to sit is good. quite a few areas are already taken
also if anyone wants to join me let me know. i was just going to attend 1 day.
Sorry, I have never. I'll see if I know anyone who has.
Sweet, thanks
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If you enter M302 ( allow cold extrudes command ) into the start of your g code then it will allow you to print at temps lower then 170deg.
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UM2 Fan Shroud Replacement
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Some times the home switch tag is not bent to the optimal position. As my shroud is slightly bigger it can hit.
So you can just bend the home switch tag so it clears the side of the printer.