Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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this may be a stupid question. but what side goes down??? sticky or smooth?
You stick it to the glass, so sticky side down
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There is adhesive silicone that you could use. The good ones have a primer that you use to prep both halves before glueing. They can be really strong.
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I would think that it's a deformed PTFE coupler. You will find info on how to check it and change it in the support section of the website or on the Ultimaker app.
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Check x ray mode to see if there are errors with the model shown in red.
What is the diameter of the hand rail?
And what sized nozzle are you using? A 0.4 diameter cylinder won't be sliced if you use a 0.4 mm nozzle, the cylinder needs to be slightly larger, like 0.45.
So set your nozzle size to a smaller size and see if it works.
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I think buying a spare glass panel would also be good with this kit, ( I just happen to have one )
This way you can have one set up with the adhesive sheet on it and the other without. Then you can just swap out the glass if you want to print TPU etc so you don't waste a sheet.
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The sides are what holds your printer together. Do not remove them.
You could cut out holes to be more like a UMO if you really wanted.
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Nice. This would be really great.
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On the github for UM2go
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I kinda modified the UM2go carry case STL to fit a UM2 but I never finished it. I also have a CNC but my time is being spent on other projects.
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Hey. Yeah it was a typo. Ok thanks. The STL seems to measure 16.93 where you have indicated.
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I just took a few measurements off the spacer and it seems to be 16.93mm not 19.8mm. Is this to cater for shrinkage when injection molded?
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Thanks for this, is great timing to make sure my UM2go+ is set up perfectly.
I may make a fancy one in my CNC mill
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spoken like a true programmer, incomprehensible to layman's like me
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Weld-on acrylic glue is awesome. Melts the surface of pla and bonds within seconds so no prep work required. Helps if you rub the parts together while glue is still wet to help dissolve the layer a bit for stronger bond.
I have used other acrylic glues and they work just as well.
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Is there still much development being done on the forum?
implementing some of the ideas that were brought up quite early on?
I'm not having a gripe, just a general question.
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I'm loving the direction Cura is heading in.
Just a few things I would like.
If you have settings hidden in the feature tree then the ones shown should trump what's hidden. Eg. Speed, if you have only print and travel speed shown then infill, shells etc should be same as you set print speed.
I like to adjust top bottom layers but number of layers not by distance but I like to have the distance shown just so I can see how thick it will be. But if I change the amount of layers, the distance won't change, then I don't know which one it will actually use.
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I love nGen and never had any stringing issues. I use normal settings but temp about 10deg hotter then pla and no fans.
Love the print finish, looks so much nicer then pla and prints really well with small nozzles.
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You can use freeCad to turn a mesh into a solid and export to STEP.
Just Google STL to step freeCad and you will get pictorials on how to do it.
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It may work but its not advisable as the tolerance of 3mm filament can mean that it ends up larger then 3mm and you will end up with all sorts of issues.
Most manufacturers make 2.85mm but advertise it as 3mm so just check with them what the actual size of the filament is.
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there will be others who can share a lot more then me on how it all works but In the firmware there is a bowden tube length which is added into the mix.
there is also something which adjusts the extruder while accelerating and decelerating but i'm not sure if this is implemented.
You can adjust coasting before retracts in 2.XX cura though.
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I wasn't notified for the last reply in This thread
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It's not really over locking the machine. It can be as simple as slowing the print down by half then the pla will print to hot for that speed.
When it's printing you can go to the tune menu and increase the temp to 235 or something and just do a test. It won't harm your printer by doing this.
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Looks like you have the silicon go right up to the tip of the nozzle. If it was up about a mm it may help stop it from going in between.
Like you said. It needs to be quite stiff.
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I love it. This would be really great.
Have you notice much of a difference during the print with plastic build up?
Any post print photos?
Raspberry pi 3 with cura?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I have also been thinking about this for my um2.
It would be good to have wifi access to it also and a pi camera for remote monitoring.