Labern
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
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Might as well start this off with one of mine.
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Just don't let Gr5 add any songs unless you want to work work work work work
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If this is for a class room environment I would definitely stick to PLA. Easier to print and doesn't stink so bad.
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This is what I have done.
It needs a few mods as there are stepper motor screws that it will hit.
Also it's a very complicated part so needs modifying to make it easier to print.
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No its not as the feeder is on the wrong side of the machine and won't fit.
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You need to clean the class and try not to touch it as the oil from your fingerprints can cause this.
Some isopropyl alcohol or glass cleaner is best.
those bubble looking marks are where the filament it not sticking to the glass.
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Nope, but mine soon will be.
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Got a good team ultimaker convo going on here
Even with PVA it would be hard as you wonld be able to melt the PVA in the center. It all can b printed as one piece but the center sphere may cause an issue for the top piece. It will start to print it in mid air and will stick to others. The rest will stick a bit but you could free it up with a knife.
As the gap is quite big you will need layer heights of around 0.2 or more and will need that ignore small z gaps enabled.
Printed at 30mm/sec and as cold as you can it should work.
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Do you have a drawing of what you would like to print.
It is hard to know what your asking.
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Most greases will do.
Magnalube is a very good Teflon grease with a good life span which is not soap based.
I you use a different type you may need to reapply it more often or you may find the oil separates and leaves a thick soap on the thread.
Small magna lube tubes can be found on ebay.
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Some models it doesnt matter and you may want it as big as possible. In this case It should be a button that you click to scale uniformly to build volume.
But agree that any auto one can cause more problems.
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1. Use the connector in the middle of the board.
2. Mine doesn't have the Ferrite core as well. I'm not sure how much it help but it will work without it.
3. yep, that's white manuals are for.
4. The bend on the switch is normal. Sometimes this needs to be bent to make sure the head is in the middle of the print area. Sometimes the head will hit one side of the machine, so you bend that tag to make it move away from the edge.
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The Ultimaker Hot End Isolator was had a small fat section at the top which would be tight in the Aluminium Plate and the bottom bit would be loose.
3D solex have a Hot End Isolator V2 which is fat all the way down. this should stop any wiggle.
You could also print a Spring replacement part and that should hold it flat.
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Well the old UM2 feeder was good at printing air.
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Just upgraded my machine and Was fairly simple.
Went to print and it wouldn't extrude.
Found it was a blocked nozzle. It must be faulty or have foreign object in there as Can't even push filament through it or do atomic pull. Swapped with and old one I had and now it's printing great.
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What material are you printing with as 70 is a bit hot for PLA
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I have a 50w heater in my UM2go olsson block. It works great on every nozzle. You can print just as fast with 35w but 50w heats up faster from cold. I just wanted faster heat up times because of how the 2go heat bed setup works.
You just need to tune the pid settings which is best done with tinkergnome firmware but you can also do it in pronterface.
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Depends on the age of the printer. The older ones the blue clip didn't really do much but the newer ones it holds the white tube clamp tight in the up position so it wont come loose.
There are ones you can print that are a bit higher on youmagine that you could use which hold the white tube clamp up.
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and you keep buying it?
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I was also at the show and they were printing models using it on a UM2, so I'm sure its 2.85.
I have also used it on UM2 and it prints really well for a flex material in a bowden setup.
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PLA is pretty great. It's strong and easy to print with really good layer adhesion even at low temps. It's only problem is the low glass transition temp.
I agree that strength test should include different print temps. Layer height and line width would also be good to see how much it effects strength.
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Is it a ultimaker 2+ or 2?
Sounds like UM2, so With the power of you can just pull the filament out. It's hard to pull but will come out. Then you can remove the blue clip from the Bowden tube clamp on top of the feeder, push the white bit down and pull the tube out. You can do this on both ends and push the broken bit out with some filament.
Before running again you should sharpen the end of the filament like a pencil which will help feed in without getting caught.
If it's a 2+ you move the leaver then pull the filament out.
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Thanks.
Yes time does fly by and I had an amazing time. The first week was the best though
Components for the assembly of the feeder
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
It is the M3 nut from the original feeder inside the white tension indicator.