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korneel

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Posts posted by korneel

  1. That is certainly not cool. If you have 2 spools which are not recognized by the printer those spools are defective. Have you asked for new spools? Or have you asked to send you new tags? I can imagine the latter seems optimal, but is not how things work behind the screens.

    Ultimaker is committed to excellent service, and arranges that via a distributed or indirect sales model. I'm sure the reseller that has sold you the UM materials will be able to help you in a satisfactory manner.

    Hello Tomnagel,

    I have asked the french reseller and they said that Ultimaker has not accepted to send a new tag. I found easier to buy a new spool of Black PLA. Now that I have a tag that is recognize I will keep it.

    I also bought a new spool of PVA, now I also have a tag that is recognized.

    Thank you.

    2 questions;

    1)is the spool itself clear or black? the spools that are working for you, and the spools you got with the printer are clear. i am interested to know what the spool is like you bought.. i am guessing the spool color is black (i really am talking about the color of the spool, not the filament) and i think you got it in a brown box..

    2)was this a discounted spool or normal price?

  2. that should be standard operating procedure.. not sending the printer back without any troubleshooting..

    Important note at the beginning

    “Do not disassemble the printer unless you have been instructed to do so.”

    not disagreeing with that, but if the first thing out of a resellers mouth is "just send it back" then that;s not ok with this error...

    then  again, perhaps I just like to live on the wild side :)

    Nono. I agree with you personally. I would have disassemble the heck out of it because that how I am. But warranty and stuff for um3 is different. So I prefer to be safe than sorry when the printer isn’t mine :D

    Also we know there’s no magic unicorns inside and except the damage by ESD, the rest it’s pretty much like any printer. But also, well, is a 3K machine after all.

    agreed,

    but he bought at Conrad who is NOT an official reseller. and if the first thing out of their mouths is "just send it back" I'd worry about what I would get returned to me. I'd contact either an official reseller, or play with it myself before I would send it back.

    • Like 2
  3. that should be standard operating procedure.. not sending the printer back without any troubleshooting..

    Important note at the beginning

    “Do not disassemble the printer unless you have been instructed to do so.”

    not disagreeing with that, but if the first thing out of a resellers mouth is "just send it back" then that;s not ok with this error...

    then again, perhaps I just like to live on the wild side :)

  4. Arrgggg, I just talked to a technician from Conrad who told me to return the printer to them for repair or exchange. :-/

    so to be honest, I'd ask them again if there is another way. as far as I know @fabric8 and fabric8erin keep me honest, if this error occurs there are some small steps your reseller would advise you to do. reseating the cable is one of them.

    for example, the official US reseller, fabric8, has created this page on how to disconnect the data cable

    https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000062743-Disconnecting-the-Printhead-UM3-UM3X-

    that should be standard operating procedure.. not sending the printer back without any troubleshooting..

    • Like 1
  5. If the problem persists, please contact your reseller. But first make sure the printcores are properly placed into the slots ("until you hear a click"). A misplaced core could trigger the I2C error.

    Thanks for your suggestion; I am pretty sure that they are placed correctly, but will verify once more and test again.

    what you should do;

    open the back 2 screws of the print head. remove the long screws. open the back little "clip"

    you can see the connection cable going in.

    use a small knife or something to press on the clip on the cable end to remove the cable from the print head. WARNING, the clip must be pressed or you will damage the cable!!

    see if all connectors are still in good shape..

    plug the cable back in and ensure there is enough wiggle room.

    rebuild the head

    that should take care of it. it is most likely a slightly loose connection cable

  6. I have installed the firmware from Cura, but I still have the same problem.

    One thing I noticed was that I had to bump up the E-steps to twice the value. The motor I use is 0.9°, so I'm thinking that it stalls because the movement during load/unload is too fast for a motor which is supposed to be 1.8°.

    Oh well I guess I will have to load manually as always :(

    wait, this all sounds superbad.

    questions

    1)did you buy the official upgrade kit or did you put a lot of stuff together?

    2)did you start cura, select the UM2+, then select upgrade firmware and install that firmware?

    3)did you do a factory reset after all this?

  7. ok, so privacy concerns aside (i think most of the url's opened are just standard ad managers such as google analytics) and the fact that it's hosted on Amazon AWS (one of the most notoriously companies when it comes to treating open source in a fair way, so that made me laugh) something has been wrong since the beginning of this forum. I have no clue what it is, but something is just killing performance..

  8. How are the loading times on the rest of the site compared to the forums

    As usual since the "upgrade" of the forum - I normally open simultaneously one after another several tabs in Chrome - four or five, starting with this forum. The I read all of them, except the forum which just finishes loading by the time I browsed quickly thru the rest of the sites.

    That's why I rarely go here and did not visit Youmagine for ages.

    youmagine..

    that place where 1 out of 5 downloads succeeds..

    • Like 1
  9. Hi @Korneel, sorry to hear about the slow loading time on your side. Is it the forum overview page specifically that is slow (not the dashboard?)

    That page is also really slow for me. @UltiArjan, how fast is the forum on your side? Is it slower in NL than it is at other places? (Nilrog, your feedback is also noted..)

    The server migration should really have made it much faster. A bit disappointed about the results.. But outside of this, we're working on another solution from which I like to think it can not fail. I know we've tried many different things in the past already, the thing I like about it is that we invest time and money in trying to make the experience better, the fact we've only booked small results is not so nice. I can't say much about it yet but let's say there is light on the horizon.

    for me it took that long this morning from the main homepage to go to the forum overview (so just click community > forum directly). it is making progress since it is only taking 8 seconds from clicking on the notification to get to this actual post.

    I'm sorry about this @sandervg , but we are, what is it, 2 years in since the old (well working) forum was migrated to this and it still isn't working right...

    • Like 2
  10. I was really getting excited about the UM3 until I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt8axoVuE9o. Now I'm not sure it's a smart investment. Maybe these and many other issues, across lots of brands and products, is the nature of FDM printing.

    well, i'm disagreeing with the video.

    if you look closely, he has one of the first printers (look at the styrofoam on top and the black spool holder) , very early firmware, and early cura (2.5).

    there have been known issues with PVA printing with those earlier versions and the older firmware.. if you look at the issue he has with the print core at 7:35 he did something naughty, that caused him to take the core out while a lot of filament was still there.. so unsure how he managed that..

    then printing the brain did not work out because he did not follow instructions the first 4 times regarding the print plate handling, then he did use the glue stick but he forgot to verify if he had enough filament.

    as far as the print head stopping and the cores remained hot, i'm not buying it. i've had crashes with the earlier firmware and the cores always cooled down. they never stayed hot.

    then the problem with the "infinite loop" is what you get when you have 2 materials with nfc tags but did not load them with the nfc detection. resolved in later firmware too.

    then the clogged bb core. i've honestly never experienced that. not being able to buy acupuncture needles because you have a medical license is just strange. we all have ebay.

    his conclusion is laughable.

    yes, i agree that the form2 is a better printer for medical applications. that has nothing to do with reliability but everything with the advantages of SLA over FDM when it comes to medical applications.

    all the other conclusions as far as reliability, buildplate adhesion those are all simply down to experience with a particular printer. granted, some of the things he ran into were caused by old versions of software/firmware but that has all been resolved. I run my printers 24/7 and I have over a 99 percent success rate.

    for me, the final minute of the video said it all. look at him using that pair of pliers like a caveman. the entire printer bounces up and down.. that just makes it one large trolling attempt to me.

    • Like 3
  11. here are my 2 cents;

    to address @traveler218; I've been printing with multiple UM3s for months now, and I have a very different experience.. super smooth prints, all materials "just work" and i've printed about 30 kilos of PETG without any issues.. happy to chat to see why it's not working for you..

    those 3 printers have different audiences..

    the Prusa I3 is just a great printer for someone that wants to get started with a "do it yourself" 3d printer, learn about the 3d printing process, tinker a little bit, but still get the great support from the company that built it, get future updates, improvements to the printer and overall a good machine. it will require more hands on time, and will be hard to evolve into a "set and forget" kind of printer. the only big drawback that i see is that it does not have any "box" surrounding it, making is susceptible to drafts and will have to work very hard to keep up heat.

    great printer, great price, but requires involvement from you.

    the Um2+ is the ultimate tinker printer with a combination of work horse for me. great printer, great price, great reliability and almost every mod is out there that you can imagine.. direct drive, floating drive, new heated beds, new heads, whatever you want, it's there.

    reliable and working straight out of the box and millions of way to upgrade and change it. it is however completely ready to go so if you want to learn a lot about how a 3d printer works, I'd say the Prusa might be a better choice.. if you want to get a running start into 3d printing an d be able to tinker later on, this is the printer for you.

    the UM3 is for me the ultimate work horse. i used to run a bunch of Um2+ printers, i immediately switched them to the UM3.

    you basically buy the printer, plug it in, load the filament which is autodetected, load cura, it sets itself up based on your printer and loaded filament and cores, and off you go. maintenance is super easy with the changing of cores, downtime is minimal and the printers are super reliable. no, there is no real tinkering there.. but I've not seen the need for it..

    hope that helps :)

    • Like 2
  12. I have no issues with 2+ but a lot with 3. When you replace the printcores, you always need to do the x/y calibration, it's a waste of time.

    for me it's the other way around..

    i always ignore the calibration.. haven't really seen the point of it so far..

    i've got print cores running for 3000+ hours.. so i don't know why you would want to replace them often.. i'm just very happy with the fact that i can if needed..

    then you only need to calibrate combinations. so calibrate them once, write down in which printer you used them and you are done..

    no, overall, um3, way more reliable and easier to use.. especially with the printing via network..

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