korneel
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3D Prints
Posts posted by korneel
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7 minutes ago, Dragon2781 said:
Hi,
of course I will make some pictures of my prints and my settings and open an other topic for the fine tuning.
My expectations are very high for a 3.6K Printer and I have to say that I'm disappointed at the moment.
Yes the overall print quality is ok with some little spots I have to fine tune but the most important selling functionalities I can not use.
- I can not use the Auto-Leveling because of Z wobble:
- I see no sense in using the expensive NFC UM-Filament when I still have to do adjustments in the settings:
- I have problems with the wasteful usage of PVA support and the gaps in the PLA it leaves behind.
With all that problems I could buy a Prusa i3 MK3 with intelligent Failure-Features and really quiet motors for 1/4 of the price.
couple of points
1)have you updated to the latest firmware and latest cura? especially the PVA in early versions of Cura and firmware wasn't that great.. with the new versions I have never had that issues anymore.. as a note though I really hate the standard ultimaker PLA filament that is included with the printer.. the silver is just sucky. try ultimaker white or black, you'll get much better results.
2)z wobble? do you mean differences in height? i can't see your picture so i don't know what the issues is..
3)the included profiles are the default profiles that will get you the best overall quality. your mileage may vary per file that you print.. there is no supplier that can give you a profile that will work and give the best results with every object you print..
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since I was triggered;
I have ran Ultimakers as workhorses since 2015. end of 2016 I replaced my farm (5 pieces of UM2+) with the UM3 and have been running those ever since. about 6 months ago I added another 3.. so a total of 8 UM3s, running 24/7. I would consider that workhorses...
I have had no downtime since I started printing.. for me they have been super reliable..
the rules of thumb that I use are:
-do a printcore cleaning on a regular basis
-maintain the rods in your printer rigourously. use synthetic based oil with PTFE for the axes, don't use the sewing machine oil. the synthetic will last a lot longer and won't leave debris.
-use the included grease for the Z axis (not the rods!)
-make sure the glass beds are clean. I only use 3Dlac spray every now and then to ensure there is always a film on them. I use PrintaFix for PP material.
-stay away from ABS. it sucks. there are better materials and it will save you a lot of headaches.
-set bed leveling to always
-once a print is done, take out the glass plate and swap for a new one. let the glass plate cool and the print will pop off. don't force a print off.
-have spare glass plates. they will break and chip
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1 hour ago, marc06 said:
Well, thanks for your answer, it just makes me disapointed to buy something new that doesn’t work . Before buying this machine I took my time to buy something serious and professional. As a professional I loose my time trying to find a solution to fix a new machine that should work. Creating communities just reflects the lack of serious of this industry.
Not here the do bricolage after paying such a big amount not of money .
NOT SERIOUS AT ALL
sorry but what's your point?
you bought a new machine and it should work. we all agree.
unfortunately, you had the misfortune that it doesn't. could happen.
there is always a failure rate. getting a device in on saturday while you already promised prints from it on monday is just poor planning. that has nothing to do with the printer. even if it arrived in perfect working condition, perhaps your design was wrong and you could not deliver.
people are trying to help you, it might be a cable underneath, your reseller should be able to get you sorted quickly. we can tell you all sorts of cables to look for, but it's a brand new machine, i'd want it swapped pronto.. and not fiddle with it too much..
so yes, feel free to be annoyed that a brand new machine doesn't work, but accept that that is part of life. that is not Ultimakers fault.. and to start yelling that the company or community is not serious at all.. how does that help?
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cleaning up so i've got a bunch of stuff for sale.
taking best offer for everything.
Buildtak Flexplate on Ultimaker Glass Plate.
Megatronics with 4 stepper drivers and LCD Display
32 pieces of the Silentstick drivers with cabling and such.
preferably in 1 sale.
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please cover the serial number.. those are matched to your machine and are used for warranty purposes.. don't want anyone to find that number using google then stealing your warranty..
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Quote
good to see how the spammers have found the enw forum too
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Love the working quickreply and the fact that I don't have to wait 30 seconds for a next page! good job!
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can you please take a new picture of the silicone pad? if the magnets are still there you should be good. please take a good picture of the inside of the print head where the silicone pad is and where the magnets are,.
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quite simple..
want to tinker? go for a um2+ extended..
want to just have a working printer? go for the UM3 extended
nice thing about the um3 is that if ever something goes wrong, you clean the printer, put in a new core, and off you go again...
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please contact your reseller to help you out.
you can slowly warm up the core a little bit and start removing the PLA but you will probably need a new aa core and probably a new fan bracket.
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Perhaps it should use quality components instead of poor cinese's ones and be assembled by technician instead that by monkeys?
That's would be a GREAT improvements !!
dude, stop being a dick.
you're only posting flamebait and you're being a troll.
the UM uses Misumi components which are japanese and not "poor cinese"
I'm sure that every now and then there are mistakes made when assembling the printers. that happens in every company.
what is the point you are trying to make and can you base it on an actual fact?
and actual fact is that UM scores very high with their printers in their userbase according to the yearly 3D Hubs survey..
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crap, i posted a long reply here and it's gone. sigh.
anyway, contact your resller, they have a UM3 recovery image with instructions.
also, why is the little knob gone?
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The last print went terribly wrong with a lot of print offsets. Maybe because the fan bracket opens during the print. The print runs overnight and I only saw the result.
But I think you are right and I will contact the reseller for help.
no need. just put the little silicone pad back
right now it's lying on top of the bracket, causing the bracked to be pushed open. it should be inserted into the bracket like thishttps://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0603/6609/products/um3silicone_800x.jpg?v=1490892351
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Hi,
did something happen to the print head? Like filament entering and deforming it?
I can't imagine how this got past QA but the fan bracket should never open during a print since it could lead to ugly crashes.
I think your best bet would be to contact the reseller and ask for a solution to this problem. If it is the rubber pad at the bottom, then this one is easy to replace.
there is no problem with the pad. it probably got a little bit stuck to the print core when the head was opened and instead of prying it loose, some extra force was used loosening the silicone flap.
just push it back in the original position, it should look like this:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0603/6609/products/um3silicone_800x.jpg?v=1490892351
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The Abort Print command doesn't/didn't work with my Ultimaker 3 updated to Firmware 4.0.1. Instead of pulling the filament back and the print head away from the object the machine pushed the filament into the nozzle and didn't stop in a reasonable time. Had to turn the machine of manually :/
did you do a factory reset after installing?
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so here's my 2 cents;
i run 8 UM3s just for other people.. all production work. some of it through 3d hubs, some of it directly.
this is not my day job, i consider it to be a hobby that got out of hand.. i have the ability to work from home so while working i change out glass plates every now and then and create packages to mail out.. the only thing that really takes up time is the whole accounting stuff which i hired an accountant for
when it comes to pricing, I've just made a large excel sheet.
I've taken all the factors into account that determine an hourly pricing. cost of printers over 3 years, maintenance, replacement parts, power cost etc. etc. and created an hourly price.
i've also taken every piece of material that I offer, taken a price per gram from the cost I would pay for the material and add a bit of leeway of material loss.
then i've added a multiplication factor for possible failed prints (i'm calculating 1 out of 100 will fail).
when i need to determine a price, i type in the grams and hours of printing time, and it spits out a cost price. then i just double that for a healthy margin and boom, there's my cost.
it does make me one of the cheapest on 3d hubs so i don';t really know why the others are so expensive.
no, this is not enough for me to make a living out of it but it doesn't have to be.. it's a hobby and a nice penny on the side.
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hurray!
all rejoice!
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i just loved how i wanted to complain about the forum still be incredibly slow and got a 504 timeout as an answer..
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I have also lost a few direct messages lately. For me personally, it seemed like this problem was gone for some time but popped up again. Luckily, most of the times, like 9/10 when I hit the 'back' button it retrieves the reply. Direct messages are usually lost unfortunately.
As soon as I get clearance, and it is certain where we're going I will let you all know what is going to happen. Bear with me please.
any clearance update yet?
every day i go on the forum is a new day of frustration.. 23 seconds today between clicking on the forum link and seeing the forum..
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Hi @Neotko..
thanks for sharing your feelings.. your feelings are your own and I'm happy this is at least still a safe place to share those feelings and those feelings are respected.
While I disagree with some of the decisions made by Ultimaker in their product marketing, development and support, the decisions are theirs to make and in the end, Ultimaker has proven they can run a company that sells worldwide, and I have not
For a company like Ultimaker, I understand there is a fine line to walk between doing what is good, and ensuring your employees do get paid at the end of the month, and ensuring your stock holders are happy too.
Here's where you lost me;
I believe Ultimaker has always encouraged people to tinker, and has always been there for the community. just look at things like the UM2+ kit, the UMO+ and very simple, the fact that you can still order parts for the UMO and the first UM2 printers. there are many companies out there who simply stop selling spare parts after 2 or 3 years. I know UM has gone out of their way to ensure these parts are still there.
then to encourage tinkering, how many times has someone like Daid not responded to questions posted on the forum of people that wanted to tinker with the UM3 firmware? loads of the development team, from mechanical to software to firmware, are active on this forum and are actively helping people. UM could easily say, stop wasting time on stuff that has no commercial application, but instead they encourage and allow people to respond and post here.
You are confusing different printers with different applications.
the UMO(+) was the tinker machine. many experimental kits are out there, from both UM as well as third parties.
the UM2(+) was not intended as a tinker machine, but a nice machine to run on your desktop. great. there were certainly options for tinkering, and they helped everyone out who wanted to do that. it was much less aimed at tinkering though. when dual extrusion was announced it would not be coming to UM2, they made changes to the boards to no longer support 2 extruders. simple business decision. You say that it is intentional to discourage tinkering, I'm saying that it's a hard sell if 1 out of 1000 printer buyers want to use the second extruder, to keep that in there. it just makes no sense. I would agree with you if everyone buying a new UM2 was expecting to put a second extruder on.. but that's not reality. it would be nice if people would be able to buy a UM2 board with 2 extruder connectors from the store, but I just can't see ground for the arguments you are trying to make there.
then to the UM3. the UM3 really is meant as a ready-set-go machine. you complain about the more expensive print cores, I think they are extra ordinarely cheap. they are the hot end, heater, temp sensor, heater block, nozzle all in one. 100 excluding VAT is not expensive for that. your argument is basically that UM has lost their way since their newest machine is not fully moddable on software and firmware level by someone who doesn't really know how to do it?
I think you are seeing the UMO, UM2 and UM3 as successors. I don't see them as successors, I see them as seperate offerings that exist next to eachother. if i want to get a very tinkerable machine, i get an UMO. no-think-next-next-finish machine? UM3.
so IO think you've always made great contributions and I hope you keep doing so. you don't like the UM3? great, then don't use it
I see no evidence of your claims to be honest..
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In reply of your initial email, are you planning on modifying your existing Ultimaker into a 3, or upgrading your range of printers with an Ultimaker 3?
The first one could be quite a challenge (but doable. @UltiArjan has made a fancy modification to his 'calimero').
We currently don't have an amount of hours set as a standard yet. This would follow from the experiences from our users using then. Obviously its function has been thoroughly tested, but there are too many variables in an average user's workflow we did not feel comfortable setting a number out there yet. Perhaps some users can shed some light on their experiences. @Korneel, @Ultiarjan, @dim3nsioneer?
I can tell that it has been tested to last longer than a teflon coupler on the previous generations.
It uses teflon, but it is installed differently. Therefor it is way less subjective to wear.
What other parts wear, in a print core? This depends for example on the materials you use. The most obvious part which would show signs of wear, would be a nozzle when using an abrasive filament.
And something which is not part of the print core, but the silicon pads underneath the print core, which are officially part of the printhead. They can degrade due to long exposure to heat, but are pretty cheap and easy to replace.
so i have 8 UM3s right now, and run all of them 24/7. so far no real issues with that, I also started out years ago with UM2s, then Um2+ now UM3..
as far as maintenance cost, it actually went down quite a bit, I've had print cores that have done 3500+ hours and are still going strong.. it's not an official Ultimaker statement, I know, but so far, I think i've replaced 2 or 3 print cores, 1 because it was simply done (at around 2800 hours i believe) and 2 because I had to do a carbon fiber print for a customer and i did not have the ruby nozzle yet..
so for me, the upgrade from um2+ to um3 certainly made sense..
OK wow this is what I am looking for. Thank you very much. You might well have just sold me on the upgrades!
once you buy the printers, make sure to mention that to @sandervg so I can get my commission
all joking aside, i disagree with your comparison in your previous post..
so if you upgraded to a TFM coupler instead of the teflon, you should not have to change them ever again in combination with the spring replacement.
for me, the biggest cost is downtime. i replaced nozzles every 500 to 1000 hours, which created downtime. i had to replace the feeders which created downtime. i had to add octoprint to monitor and schedule print jobs.. i could not easily switch glass plates because the bed leveling would be off.. in short, the UM3 for me is an even bigger workhorse that can just keep on printing. once a print is done, take out the glass plate, new one in, next print. boom.
if i am in doubt about a print core, immediate switch with a working one, and once i have some time, i'll troubleshoot it..
if you have the means, i would upgrade to UM3s immediately. you won't regret it.
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In reply of your initial email, are you planning on modifying your existing Ultimaker into a 3, or upgrading your range of printers with an Ultimaker 3?
The first one could be quite a challenge (but doable. @UltiArjan has made a fancy modification to his 'calimero').
We currently don't have an amount of hours set as a standard yet. This would follow from the experiences from our users using then. Obviously its function has been thoroughly tested, but there are too many variables in an average user's workflow we did not feel comfortable setting a number out there yet. Perhaps some users can shed some light on their experiences. @Korneel, @Ultiarjan, @dim3nsioneer?
I can tell that it has been tested to last longer than a teflon coupler on the previous generations.
It uses teflon, but it is installed differently. Therefor it is way less subjective to wear.
What other parts wear, in a print core? This depends for example on the materials you use. The most obvious part which would show signs of wear, would be a nozzle when using an abrasive filament.
And something which is not part of the print core, but the silicon pads underneath the print core, which are officially part of the printhead. They can degrade due to long exposure to heat, but are pretty cheap and easy to replace.
so i have 8 UM3s right now, and run all of them 24/7. so far no real issues with that, I also started out years ago with UM2s, then Um2+ now UM3..
as far as maintenance cost, it actually went down quite a bit, I've had print cores that have done 3500+ hours and are still going strong.. it's not an official Ultimaker statement, I know, but so far, I think i've replaced 2 or 3 print cores, 1 because it was simply done (at around 2800 hours i believe) and 2 because I had to do a carbon fiber print for a customer and i did not have the ruby nozzle yet..
so for me, the upgrade from um2+ to um3 certainly made sense..
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Mine broke around the screw, the local dealer 'Creative tools' here in Halmstad Sweden say they don't have it as spare part, just the hole print core.
that is correct, you'd replace the whole printcore. replacing this 1 part is a total pain and it's better to just replace the core.
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1)is the spool itself clear or black? the spools that are working for you, and the spools you got with the printer are clear. i am interested to know what the spool is like you bought.. i am guessing the spool color is black (i really am talking about the color of the spool, not the filament) and i think you got it in a brown box..
If it would be an old UM spool without NFC tag one would not see the NFC tag id with the nfc reader test.
you're right. i reread the post and now i see he tried and it did show a tag ID, i thought it just said it could not recognize the tag..
Little introduction
in Coffee corner
Posted
so i have no clue to to cut the quote into pieces so here is my less structured reply
i kinda consider myself a professional
i see some of the reviews online and some of them are. interesting. for example in his latest review Thomas Sanladerer has some issues with the cracked white blocks and the X axis dropping out. he fails to mention this is a known issue for the first batch of Um3s and people should have been contacted by now (and the resellers are aware) and there is a replacement set that they can get for free.. so that casts some doubt. also remember that most of these reviews only have a printer for a week.. they don't buy a printer, they loan one, review it, then send it back. .
you can clean the cores under maintenance, then clean print cores. it is all explained there
yeah, the included oil is ok, but the superlube multipurpose synthetic oil with PTFE (comes in a pen shape) is a lot better.
you don't need the bed from filafarm. it will cause more issues then it solves. i print with every kind of filament and have never had the need to use anything else then the glass bed, 3dlac or printafix. it's a waste of money and will make your life more difficult.
bad z wobble.. you have to explain that.. what is the error message?