korneel
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Posts posted by korneel
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And if you have some examples of what you are planning on making, that would probably also help.
What kind of materials are you planning on using?
Ultimaker is known for its high quality prints and reliability, and we were not planning on choosing a different direction for the Ultimaker 3.
Material will be mostly PLA, ABS, NYLON, perhaps some exotic like bronzefill but with the first 3 i am already going to be fine.
Printer is for artistic prurpose, i do not like publishing my personal work here but let's say that is something like the Mathematical Art sold on Shapeways.
Ultimaker is known for its high quality prints and reliability, also UM2 was known to be a printer that was needing a lot of technical manitenance in order to keep it running properly, i say this as an owner, and a company that at the end of the day, didn't delivery dual extrusion promise, but this is a different debate.
Question is: can be UM3 be considered a machine that need less attentions than UM2? and where can be considered more useful than her competitors Sigma or, let's say, a multi material Prusa i3 mk2? Considering the very high price. I am mentining expecially that two printers because what really matter are good prints and reliability.
Thanks for your kind attention
if you are ok with me answering, I can offer some insights..
UM2 was known to be a printer needing a lot of maintenance..
well, sure, the UM2 had it's issues.. and then the Um2+ was released. when it comes to maintenance requirements between the UM2+ and the UM3, i think it's pretty similar and i would consider it needing less time as compared to other printers.. the maintenance will be different though.. they will need to have their feeders inspected every now and then, the axis need to be lubricated, you need to clean the nozzles.. nothing really different.. the biggest difference is that the UM3 is more designed to run in a continuous operation and when it needs maintenance, maintenance is quick.. so instead of changing parts inside the print head, you just replace the entire print core and be up and running again. the UM2+ offers more ways to change small parts and make small differences, so more tinkering...
i think if you need a printer that is a set and forget solution, you're looking at the UM3. if you're looking at a printer that has been around for years and allows for tinkering and suiting it to your needs, you want an UM2+.
and where can be considered more useful than her competitors Sigma or, let's say, a multi material Prusa i3 mk2?
so those are 2 questions in 1..
first of all, the Prusa I3 is NOT multi material. we have to be super clear about that. yes, it's multi colour, but NOT multi material. you will not be able to print PLA and PVA on the Prusa I3.. they reuse the same print head for all materials, so mixing won't be an option. you need dual nozzles for that..
now that's cleared up, why the higher price?
well this community is one reason..
talk to any reseller that sells different printers and they will tell you the same story. the Prusa I3, supercool printer, works as advertised and if you want a printer that just works that you can use to print your own things with, it's an awesome printer. it requires regular maintenance like any other printers.. but if you buy an original one, it's going to be a great buy for home use. running it in a continous matter, sure, that will work, but is not their intented usage..
as far as the BNC Sigma, it's a good printer, but it's build quality is sub-par. I've heard the stories and seen the examples of rust, broken stepper motors within the year.. yes it's a great printer, works as advertised and fun to print with every now and then. not meant for putting a lot of stress on it..
now the Ultimaker, that's a different story. high quality materials, build quality just feels great and sturdy, can certainly take a punch, really build for "abuse".
So I can only tell you the UM3 is awesome. that being said, I can't look into your wallet so I don't know how much you want to spend.. if you are talking about the UM3 and the Prusa I3 in the same sentence.. that's a different conversation.. you can buy 3 I3s for the price of 1 UM3..
if I look at my UM3s, they can do things the Prusa I3 cannot do.. so the UM3 is worth every penny to me.. if i had requirements that the I3 could do exactly what I want, and I didn't need the features in the UM3.. then I would get the I3..
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Daid knows.
isn't that just a general truth?
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had a chat with Daid today;
if you add the buildtak, you should be good.. please note that the hot end does push a little into the material, and buildtak does not like that..
the flexplate system is something else.. the automatic leveling system uses the aluminium plate, and thanks to the buildtak flexplate system that does not work anymore.. so be carefull
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hallo forum.
i've readed the ability of the new U3 of detecting the kind of filament that is loaded (only spools from the brand Ultimaker). do you think that in a near future other materials from other companies can also be detected by the u3? because here in Germany waiting from 3 to 4 weeks to get spools from ultimaker... thats a long time when you take in count that theres filament companies that are sending their orders in two days time. waiting 4 weeks or 6 for a printer to arrive is smth different... but filament?
It's incredibly easy to load a non-ultimaker filament. Just go to the menu and tell it what type of filament you just loaded. But these NFC chips can be recycled - I believe you can actually write to one with a gcode - not sure - but someone will come out with a hack to do that. Than you can just pull the chip off an old used-up UM spool, reprogram it, and tape it to a non-ultimaker spool. Or buy a whole bunch of these chips. And like Korneel says you should be able to program them with a droid phone if someone writes an app. Do iphones do nfc?
Windows phones do
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hallo forum.
i've readed the ability of the new U3 of detecting the kind of filament that is loaded (only spools from the brand Ultimaker). do you think that in a near future other materials from other companies can also be detected by the u3? because here in Germany waiting from 3 to 4 weeks to get spools from ultimaker... thats a long time when you take in count that theres filament companies that are sending their orders in two days time. waiting 4 weeks or 6 for a printer to arrive is smth different... but filament?
It has a pcb in the spool so the sensor (on the printer) can pick up the data from the spool and therefore tell what kind of filament is loaded and what the optimal settings are. Most brands don't incorporate this into their spools because most printers don't have the sensor, and it would just add extra cost. Possibly printers a few years from now will all be able to detect filament type, and having self-identifying spools will be normal, but that's the future
well, PCB is perhaps a big word.. it's really an RFID tag.. once the specs get released, you can even create your own with your phone
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so i have the flexplate system, automatic leveling has to be disabled.. errors about the cores being too far apart etc.. disabled automatic leveling and it once again works great.
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That's a win for the kids!
that's what I thought.. so less money for me, more good stuff for kids
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That's a great deal....now if I could only get that money tree to bloom...
seems I might have shown my good side for once.. a school will buy all 4 of them for a good price.. making sure students can play and work with them to their content
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thank you!
when you say hard coded in controller.py.. does that mean i can change that file and it will respect the changes?
Yes, but you are doing something that you need to be very careful about.
i understand.. but if i wanted to reduce the current that would be relatively safe no?
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Oh no, Colorfabb! Those awesome colors won't work :(
Will it work with nGen, then?
wait wait.. yes it will work with PLA-PHA.. however... you can;t use PVA support inside the object. PVA won't adhere well enough.. but I've used it with great succes as a support material below the object, that's not a problem!
NGEN is a problem because it's a copolymer.. that doesn't play well with PVA..
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you are the best. next time i'll bring you beer.
also, is there a simple way I can get printer statistics ? like hours printed witha core?
also : is there a way to easily change the current to the stepper motors?
Printer stats will be added in the API on a firmware update. We are already collecting things, but they are not yet exposed.
Currently the motor current is hard-coded in griffin/printer/controller.py
thank you!
when you say hard coded in controller.py.. does that mean i can change that file and it will respect the changes?
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Yes you can. Not for quality prints ofc. And it's used yo atomic clean it.
What you shouldn't do is put PVA on a AA core.
we learn something new every day.
perhaps it's time to create a table for what in what but also which combos work and which combos won't,.. PLA and PVA works but I know PLA-PHA and PVA does not..
Wait PLA-PHA doesn't work with PVA? Why? It should work, right? I mean, PHA isn't soluble in water.
well, there's a difference between it works, and it " works" .
sure, I can print PLA PHA on top of PVA. however, when going for complex objects where you need to lay down PVA on top of PLA, the PLA PHA is not sticky enough.. printing the same object with just PLA does not have this issue.. believe.. i tried..
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so this is a difficult subject..
i totally get @asb 's point. If you go out and buy something that says that the build volume is 223X223X205 you expect you can use that full amount straight out of the box.
i do think that the explanations we have hear here are valid. and technically, yes the build volume is 223X223X205 and there are ways you can get the printer to use it. the question is if it's viable in every day use..
in other topics I've debated the use of an asterisk in this build volume, saying that yes, that's the build volume and with the default settings you can use yXyXy.. that would be more clear.. at the same point, you would instantly stand out as compared to the other people. they don't do this, makerbot for instance does not advertise the actual build volume.. they publish the theoretical.. so it's difficult..
it's been well explained however and further complaining won't help.. to tell someone to quite whining isn't helpful either..
this is one of those things where feedback has now been provided. let's just rest at that.
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so this is a difficult subject..
i totally get @asb 's point. If you go out and buy something that says that the build volume is 223X223X205 you expect you can use that full amount straight out of the box.
i do think that the explanations we have hear here are valid. and technically, yes the build volume is 223X223X205 and there are ways you can get the printer to use it. the question is if it's viable in every day use..
in other topics I've debated the use of an asterisk in this build volume, saying that yes, that's the build volume and with the default settings you can use yXyXy.. that would be more clear.. at the same point, you would instantly stand out as compared to the other people. they don't do this, makerbot for instance does not advertise the actual build volume.. they publish the theoretical.. so it's difficult..
it's been well explained however and further complaining won't help.. to tell someone to quite whining isn't helpful either..
this is one of those things where feedback has now been provided. let's just rest at that.
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Why couldn't you be in the US? Enjoy the UM3s when they come in.
if you buy all 4 and pay for shipping, I'll throw in 1200 bucks of spare parts for free
I've greatly enjoyed the Um2+ printers, I still do
they are absolutely awesome.. I have logged some serious hours on some of them and there is no difference between the oldest or newest models. they are absolutely perfect printers, couldn't have wished for a better one. alas, times are changing and people that order prints for me want different kind of prints, they want very complex prints and don';t mind paying extra.. hence the switch.. I just hope the Um3 will be as reliable as the Um2+
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Holy 1500 for that? They will fly fast
they should... I have some UM3s that want to be in their place...
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Yes you can. Not for quality prints ofc. And it's used yo atomic clean it.
What you shouldn't do is put PVA on a AA core.
we learn something new every day.
perhaps it's time to create a table for what in what but also which combos work and which combos won't,.. PLA and PVA works but I know PLA-PHA and PVA does not..
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So it could be nice to avoid the cooling down part, specially the bed,
Ultimaker manual adviced to take out the glass and put it on top of the calibration card, in this case a cool down is needed.
I just look at the calibrated print in the machine and have the card at hand to read of the numbers, it's pretty simple, but taking the glass out is probably more "monkey proof"
Anyhow not a very important discussion as you hardly ever calibrate xy
so I got the machine before the manual was there
what i was expecting, and what I was thinking of, is to have a hole in the calibration sheet, so you can just lay the sheet over the glass plate. you don't have to take the glass plate out then.. you can just overlay it..
I actually already suggested that in the beta phase... hope someone will pick this idea up...
there is just 1 drawback with that approach..
PVA is very hard to see.. so if you do it that way, the PVA would not be very visible against the aluminium background..
You can pull the lever remove the pva and and insert some PLA for that calibration.
i was told you should not run PLA through the PVA core.. is that incorrect?
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All;
Because of the way I use my Printers, the Ultimaker 3 is a logical choice for me. That means that I am selling my existing "farm" of Ultimaker 2+ printers!
let's start off with that they are all in excellent condition. if you read my forum replies and look at my hub you can see I know what I am doing when it comes to the UM2.
they have always been well lubricated, parts replaced when needed, and issues fixed when they occurred. right now they are troublefree printers, achieving a success rate of 98 percent on my prints.
out of the 4 printers there is no best one, they are identical and perform flawlessly.
the belts are properly aligned, the axels are 100 percent straight etc. etc.
each of the printer has an Ultimaker 2 or 2+ as a base. they all have UM2+ parts, so Olsson Block, TFM coupler, Spring Replacement, new accurate temp sensor, 35 watt heater etc. etc.
so in essence, all 4 printers are UM2+ printers.
as a bonus, all printers have a BondTech feeder installed at the back. I've installed them using a custom bracket, which allows any spool (750 or 2200 grams) to be mounted on the back using the original spoolholder.
the other change is that every printer has a Raspberry Pi attached to the bottom and a camera installed inside the printer. no additional holes have been drilled for any of these modifications BTW!
this means that each printer can create timelapses and can be controlled over the network.
so what you are getting is;
an UM2+
Bondtech QR Feeder pre-installed
Raspberry Pi with Octoprint + camera pre-installed
I also have a load of spare parts available that I can add to the sale. all printers come with a new nozzle, my personal guarantee, a spool of filament of your choice, and the option to create a test print in advance.
running hours of these printers varies between 1200 and 17.000 hours. I know, I know, the youngest printer will be the most popular, but there really is no difference. they have all performed flawlessly and parts have been replaced when needed. when I place all 4 next to eachother, there is not one that performs better, you will not be able to tell the difference between the youngest or the oldest printer.
these printers have gotten me a consistent 4.9 on 3D Hubs, and are super reliable.
I'm located in the center of THe Netherlands but willing to ship on your cost.
my asking price is 1500 euros a piece which really is a steal..
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So it could be nice to avoid the cooling down part, specially the bed,
Ultimaker manual adviced to take out the glass and put it on top of the calibration card, in this case a cool down is needed.
I just look at the calibrated print in the machine and have the card at hand to read of the numbers, it's pretty simple, but taking the glass out is probably more "monkey proof"
Anyhow not a very important discussion as you hardly ever calibrate xy
so I got the machine before the manual was there
what i was expecting, and what I was thinking of, is to have a hole in the calibration sheet, so you can just lay the sheet over the glass plate. you don't have to take the glass plate out then.. you can just overlay it..
I actually already suggested that in the beta phase... hope someone will pick this idea up...
there is just 1 drawback with that approach..
PVA is very hard to see.. so if you do it that way, the PVA would not be very visible against the aluminium background..
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So it could be nice to avoid the cooling down part, specially the bed,
Ultimaker manual adviced to take out the glass and put it on top of the calibration card, in this case a cool down is needed.
I just look at the calibrated print in the machine and have the card at hand to read of the numbers, it's pretty simple, but taking the glass out is probably more "monkey proof"
Anyhow not a very important discussion as you hardly ever calibrate xy
so I got the machine before the manual was there
what i was expecting, and what I was thinking of, is to have a hole in the calibration sheet, so you can just lay the sheet over the glass plate. you don't have to take the glass plate out then.. you can just overlay it..
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The motor might reverse if you put in negative E steps. But that could also break things, didn't try that.
Planning to make it easier to have a custom json file. This also helps us internally on various experimental machines. I took a quick look at doing this today, but the code was a bit more complex then a quick patch.
you are the best. next time i'll bring you beer.
also, is there a simple way I can get printer statistics ? like hours printed witha core?
also : is there a way to easily change the current to the stepper motors?
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that's a very fair question and one i asked myself.
i talked to someone i knew that had both the UM3 , and UM2+ and a Sigma.
apparently in his Sigma he has had to replace all of the stepper motors since they all died on him, he has had rust inside bearings and on the axis, and multiple other weird things that you should not be expecting for that money. the Ultimaker however has been a solid printer through and through.
i would say, talk to a Sigma owner
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totally understand that this is a hard egg to crack.. but still.. if i buy a printer and i load a model that is smaller then advertised, and I can't print it.. I might be annoyed.
sure, the wipe tower might not always be needed, but horizontal expansion is seriously needed when doing PVA..
so perhaps there might be at least an asterisk that indicates that the volume is " fluid" so to say..
my two cents:
IMHO none of your arguments are related to the specifications of the printer, instead you're talking about restrictions of the slicer.
I think one should not mix-up these things. The printer has a specified build volume and that's correctly stated on the data sheet. Point.
If one wants to prepare print files with Cura (free of charge) there are some restrictions / settings that are leading to the fact that Cura can not use the whole build volume out of the box... so what...
With other words: the free slicer in it's current version does not use the full potential of the device. That's not ideal from the manufacturer's perspective, but does not change the technical data of the printer, does it?
The printer and Cura are not strictly bundled. If any - the "asterisks" has to be added to the Cura manual, not for the printer.
in the end, it's a limitation in the printer.. for 2 reasons
first of all, it's a complete package. i buy the printer and I need to use Cura for that. Cura is the packaged software, it's a complete package for me, so there should be no difference. limitation in the slicer is a limitation in the total package.
secondly, even with a different slicer, i would need to expand on the PVA and have something like a prime tower.
i do understand your point and as i said before, it's difficult. how do you present limitations in your offer without discouraging people from buying this?
let me think about this.
Reasons to buy an UM3
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
I bet on UM2 two years ago, the machine was great for some points but had numerous issues, you guys from the team already know and already heard about them so many times that is useless to repeat (also this forum is full of cases).
To have the promised machine with the + extension i had to wait 2 years and would had spent 500 more € (2800 total), so i would not use UM2+ upgrade for comparison. Let skip also the UM2 double extrusion part, that was another reason me and other 10000 users buiyed the machine. Old, boring story.
What i would like to see from you, perhaps i am missing something, is a more clear communication about UM3, clear case studies, more real example of prints, not coming out from marketing offices, without waiting users to do it, that would be a reason for me to bet again on UM.
Productive part: UM3 is working well with nylon, which is truly intresting, do you have some pictures of a Nylon print with supports? No warping?
this might be not true since there are examples of e3d scaffold supporting e3d edge printed with the dual feed. Correct me if i am wrong. Not the same range of options, of course, but not even just color.
I am here to be convinced, not for the love of debate
. This have to be clear
thank you all
so.. I have many examples of prints that I have only been able to do on the UM3..
I have just completed a print that was for an archtectural firm, it's a model of a playground play piece, with a slide and swingset. they needed the PVA support because this is a print with a lot of floating pieces for inside a maquette. could not have done that on the UM2.
have also just completed a large print for a petrochemical company, it's a processing vat with a cutout in the side so you can look inside. pretty large print, with lots of complex equipment inside, so needed PVA to make sure we could print inside.
sorry, can't post pictures since they are customer prints, but very cool nevertheless.
as far as the multi material.. sure, you could run PVA type material through the same nozzle as PLA... but I've just completed a 5 day print with PVA and PLA.. total of 500 grams of PVA and 450 grams of PLA.. that's just not going to work through the same nozzle..
but ask away
what else would you like to know? if you have scenarios about what you want to print, i'm sure someone can answer